Everyone who has ever built a sauna stove knows how much work it takes to make even a simple sheet metal body according to their own drawings. It is easier to build a stove for a bath from a pipe with your own hands, especially since finding a drawing of such a building is not a problem. In most known designs, the sauna stove has a vertical body. Most often, this is due to the desire to rationally use the space in the steam room or arrange the outlet of the stove pipe in the bath vertically according to the drawings for the location of the chimney and ventilation in the house.

How horizontal ovens differ from vertical models

In this sense, a horizontal sauna stove will take up more usable area in the steam room, but the specific shape of the body allows you to get a number of useful advantages:

• Convenient form for loading fuel into the combustion chamber;
• A small height at which the heater box is located;
• Due to the optimal distribution of fuel in a thin layer in a horizontal stove for a sauna from a pipe, this can be seen from the drawing, firewood burns more completely and evenly.

For your information! Most experts believe that a round stove for a bath from a pipe is better air flowed around, due to which more heat from the rising air gets to the water tank and the heater.

But, rather, most craftsmen make horizontal stoves, because people just like the unusual look of a 530 mm pipe sauna stove, as in the photo. The simplicity of the device allows you to set up the manufacture of a bath stove by hand according to drawings and videos, of which, if desired, you can find a lot.

Most often, for the construction of such a bath structure, old gas cylinders or pieces from a water pipe with a diameter of 50 cm and above are used. The most common scheme is the manufacture of a horizontal sauna stove from a 530 mm pipe. Only tubular furnaces are made horizontally; they have a sufficient margin of safety and high heat transfer to the air of the steam room in the bath.

The main advantages of using a horizontal arrangement of the furnace body

If we compare the horizontal and vertical schemes of the furnace, then we can note several main differences that affect the efficiency of heating the air in the bath:

1. The streams of flame and hot gases in a vertical furnace are directed along the shortest path to the chimney in the upper part of the body, while they have little contact with the side walls and are collected in one stream located in the central part.
2. In a horizontal design, hot gas flows are forced to wash the upper part of the body, and only after that, under the action of rarefaction of air in the chimney, they are thrown into the chimney;
3. The heated walls of the vertical furnace radiate heat in the bath along the normal to the steel surface, which means that the main part of the energy, up to 90%, is directed to the sides in a horizontal direction. Such a scheme in the bath perfectly heats the walls, but cannot heat the floor and air in the upper part of the room, a tenth of the heat is generally emitted with exhaust gases into the pipe;
4. A stove with a horizontal arrangement of the body with thermal radiation perfectly heats up all areas in the bath, except for areas adjacent to the floor and located directly under the firebox.

Depending on the wall thickness, the weight can vary from 60 to 180 kg. This is not much, so a horizontal stove can be placed in the central part of the steam room on a relatively simple metal frame or pile foundation. If the dimensions of the horizontal furnace do not exceed those indicated on the drawing, it can be installed even on a simple 8 mm sheet of metal, provided that thermal insulation of at least 20 mm thick is used.

How to build a horizontal stove for a bath

The design of the horizontal furnace is actually a tubular combustion chamber, with grate and blower in one body, a water tank and a compartment for the heater. The device of the horizontal firebox allows maximum heat to be directed to heating the heater to collect steam in the sauna room.

Tools and materials

In a scheme with a horizontal arrangement of the combustion chamber, we need the following material:

Of the tools for welding a horizontal furnace, you will need a welding machine with accessories and a powerful grinder. It is better if it is possible to weld especially critical assemblies using a carbon dioxide semi-automatic device, but if you have the skill, the entire design of a horizontal furnace can be perfectly cooked with a conventional impulse unit.

Important! Try to use new pipe sections for the furnace, usually all used metal is heavily deformed and has traces of deep corrosion.

If a horizontal oven is planned to work in a bath for a long time, buy high-quality cuts of a new pipe under medium pressure, preferably seamless. A cut to a meter will not cost much more than an old rusty junk.

Description of the design of the stove for a bath with a horizontal firebox

Feel free to compare the available photos and drawings of furnaces with a horizontal combustion chamber. They are similar in many ways. The main differences in the design relate to the arrangement of the ashpit-blower and the location of the water tank, heater and exhaust pipe for exhaust gases.

In the simplest version, the ash pan and grates are welded onto shelves made of metal profiles or steel corners. Due to the large length of the grates due to the horizontal elongated furnace, part of the fuel can be unevenly distributed along the entire length of the grates, and part of the air will simply be thrown into the chimney, worsening the draft in the furnace. Therefore, the grate grates must be made narrow, a maximum of 10-12 cm, for the entire length of the horizontal firebox.

The most competent would be to use standard cast-iron grates from the furnace, cut to size for laying on welded steel shelves inside the horizontal firebox. Cast iron is much more durable than steel rebar.

So that cinders and ash do not clog the air leak, the ash pan is most often welded in the form of a separate box welded to the lower part of the horizontal body. The thickness of the metal for the box is chosen the same as for the tubular horizontal body.

The vertical walls are cut either to fit the pipe diameter, or the metal allowance is made in the upper and lower parts of the bottom. The lower part, after welding to the pipe, is cut and profiled under the furnace supports, on which the body will stand in the bath. The lower part can be cut to fit the radius of the horizontal body. Sometimes the upper part of the bottom can be made in the form of a wall for additional heating of the air in the bath.

Very often, the loading window into the furnace is made in the form of a box-shaped tunnel, which allows you to bring the door and the hatch of the ash pan through the niche from the steam room to the utility room of the bath. In addition, dirt, fuel and cinders are removed from the bath.

The heater box is most often located on top of the stove, closer to the outlet pipe. The front part of the horizontal body is always colder, and often serves only to heat the air in the bath. In some designs, the authors deliberately bend the pipe outlet several times so as to obtain the maximum area of ​​​​contact with the water tank and stones.

Assembling a horizontal stove and installing it in a bath

At the first stage, the edges of the pipe are cut with a grinder so as to obtain both planes perpendicular to the axis. At the end, a chamfer is removed for welding the bottoms. The body is cleaned of rust, squares are welded into the future horizontal firebox for installing grates.

If the ash pan is made as a separate part, then we mark, cut and weld the ash pan box from sheet metal. We weld the ash box and cut out vertical walls. In the front wall, we mark and cut a hole for the loading tunnel or simply weld the doors of the firebox and ash pan. At the next stage, we install the tray for the heater and the water tank.

The main problem of installing a horizontal stove in a bath is related to the correct and safe connection of the outlet pipe to the chimney. In the selected place of the bath, we lay a sheet of thermal insulation and a steel support under the body. Next, from the pipes and elbows, we mark out the structure for connecting the furnace to the chimney of the bath and grab all the elements with dots into one gas outlet unit. If there are no errors in the markup, we fix the outlet on the chimney of the bath and on the stove and weld all the joints using a semiautomatic device or stainless steel electrodes.

We cover the surface of the pipe with thermal insulation and a casing made of tin. To preserve heat in the furnace and increase steam in the bath, the open parts of the horizontal furnace body can be covered with removable covers made of thick tin or galvanized roofing.

Conclusion

The level of axial or lateral inclination of the horizontal body does not, as a rule, affect the operation of the stove in the bath, therefore there are no special requirements or conditions for its installation in the room. To eliminate the metallic smell in the bath, the surface can be coated with one of the high-temperature compositions based on powdered aluminum and silicon. But more often the surface in the bath simply burns to the dark red color of iron oxide and does not oxidize further.

The basis of any bath is the oven. This device should not only create a certain temperature, but also monitor the humidity of the air.

Given this, professional craftsmen advise using a 530 cm pipe sauna stove for these purposes.

Manufacturing procedure

To begin with, it should be mentioned that all the necessary materials can be purchased at scrap metal collection points. Also, many craftsmen believe that horizontal pipe sauna stoves are less efficient and impractical. Therefore, it is better to create a vertical structure with a water tank at the top.

Required materials and tools

In order to create a stove in a bath from a pipe, you must have:

• welding machine, preferably gas;
• circular saw with cutting wheels for metal;
• measuring tool;
• a brush with metal bristles;
• hammer;
• a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 520-530 cm, a length of 1.5 meters;
• a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, a length of 2 meters;
• a thick sheet of metal from which four circles can be cut along the diameter of the pipe;
• heat resistant paint.

Advice!
It should be noted that all metal parts must have a good appearance, which would indicate that they are ready for welding.
Otherwise, through holes can be found during the manufacturing process, which were hidden under a thick layer of rust.

Manufacturing

• In order for the stove for a bath from a pipe to function correctly, it is necessary to divide the pipe into several parts, each of which would have its own volume corresponding to the purpose.
• To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 530 cm is cut across into three equal parts, 0.5 meters each.
• Further, the manufacturing instructions involve the creation of a firebox.
• First you need to cut a circle according to the diameter of the hole, which is welded to the bottom of the first resulting element.

• Then a window is made on the side of the product through which fuel will be loaded. In order for stoves for pipe baths to work efficiently, it is better to immediately equip them with small doors, which can be purchased separately.
• At the next stage, another circle is cut out, which is welded to the upper opening of the firebox. At the same time, a hole with a diameter of 90 mm must be made in the center of it. A weaving pipe is welded onto it, which will serve as a chimney.
• It is worth noting that such bath stoves from a pipe are not equipped with grates for collecting ash and, accordingly, an additional door. However, if desired, a similar element can be introduced into the design, but the height of the firebox should remain equal to 0.5 meters.

• There are such drawings of a stove for a bath from a pipe, which suggest that the chimney pipe will be installed from the next chamber, but then many small holes must be made in the upper circle covering the firebox. Some masters consider this design more effective.
• Next, a second piece of thick-walled pipe is put on top and welded. Stones will be placed in the resulting chamber, which will be able to carry out uniform heat exchange in the room. At the same time, many manuals that tell about how to weld a stove from a pipe for a bath are advised not only to equip the compartment with a window, but also with a door. This is especially important if the exhaust pipe will be attached to it from above, and at its bottom there will be holes leading to the furnace.

• The upper part of this chamber is also made with a hole for a hundredth pipe, but in one case it is simply put on through it, and in the second manufacturing option such a horizontal panel will be the basis for the chimney. All joints are also boiled, monitoring the quality of the seams. The fact is that with intense heating, the metal will expand and this will be a serious test of this work.
• Some craftsmen, when using electric welding, advise using special electrodes that create a seam that is resistant to high temperatures and its sudden changes.
• At the next stage, a bath stove from a pipe needs to create a water tank. To do this, a third element is put on top of the structure, which was cut off earlier and carefully welded. This will be a reservoir for water, and it will be heated not only due to the thermal conductivity of the metal, but also using the gases released during combustion, which will rise through the chimney.

• After that, with our own hands we make a convenient lid that covers the surface of the tank, bending around the bath pipe coming from the furnace of the stove. It doesn't have to be made of metal. As a cover, a wooden shield made of boards is quite suitable.
• Some craftsmen suggest installing a faucet on the bottom of the tank so that you can pour water into a bucket without endangering your hands when in contact with steam.
• At the final stage, the finished product is brushed with metal bristles and covered with a layer of heat-resistant paint. It should immediately be said that its price is quite high, but if there is a desire to give the structure a good appearance, then such expenses are fully justified.

Advice!
It should be mentioned that there are a number of similar products that differ in the way of assembly and the principle of operation.
This design is presented as a basis, which an experienced master can always refine and improve.

Conclusion

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Also, based on the text set out above, we can conclude that there is nothing difficult in creating a stove for a bath based on a pipe with your own hands. However, to implement this project, you must have a special tool and be able to handle it.

The easiest and at the same time the cheapest way to make a sauna stove is to use a piece of ordinary steel pipe. Such a design will function quite normally in any room, regardless of its size. Moreover, thanks to the hermetic casing, the furnace made of a pipe will not emit carbon monoxide during operation, which means that it is absolutely safe for humans. Therefore, there is no need to build any additional fences.

How to weld a stove for a bath from a pipe? In fact, there is nothing complicated here - with the appropriate equipment and skills in working with a welding machine, the manufacturing procedure will take only a few hours.

Preparing a site for the oven

First you need to take care of the foundation. To make it, you need to follow these steps.

Table. Instruction

Step ##IllustrationDescription

Step 1		In the place where the furnace will be located, a hole 50 cm deep is dug. The length and width depend on the dimensions of the future structure (the article considers the use of a pipe Ø 50 cm, which means that the dimensions of the foundation should be approximately 70x70 cm).
Step 2		The bottom of the pit is covered with rubble and carefully compacted. The thickness of the already compacted layer should be at least 30 cm.
Step 3		A thin layer of liquid cement mortar is poured over the crushed stone “pillow” (cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 4, water - as needed) and left for 24 hours to cool. This is the sole of the future base.
Step 4		Waterproofing is laid on top of the hardened cement - several layers of roofing material.
Step 5		Next, the pit is poured with concrete prepared from cement, sand and fine gravel in a ratio of 1: 2.5: 4 (+ water)
Step 6		The surface of the poured foundation is checked by level. If everything is in order with horizontality, you can proceed to the removal of a brick platform.
Step 7		A platform is built from red or fireclay bricks (the dimensions are the same - 70x70 cm). Bricks should be laid in one or two rows, and only on clay mortar. As a result, the platform should rise above the finished floor by about 15-20 cm.

It is also necessary to protect the walls of the room from strong heat. To do this, a protective screen is constructed from bricks laid "on edge" and linked with the same clay mortar.

The height of the screen should be 120 cm, the future oven will be located about 20 cm from it.

Making a vertical furnace from a steel pipe

The process will use a 1.5-meter pipe Ø 50 cm, the wall thickness should be at least 1 cm. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

Step 1. First, the pipe is cut into two parts - 90 cm and 60 cm. The smaller part will serve as a water tank (by the way, the diameter of this segment may be smaller), and a furnace with a heater will be installed in the larger one.

Step 2 A rectangular cutout for the blower is made from the bottom of the larger segment. The hole should be 50-60 mm high and 180-200 mm wide. The blower itself, by the way, will also serve as an ash pan.

Step 3 A round steel plate 12 mm thick and with a diameter corresponding to the inner diameter of the pipe used is welded above the blower hole. A hole is cut in the center of the circle for the grate. It’s easier to buy and install a ready-made “store” grate, but if you wish, you can do everything yourself - weld reinforcing bars on the hole in the form of a lattice, but so that the gaps between them correspond to their diameter.

Step 4 A niche is cut out with dimensions of 300x250 mm for the combustion chamber (at the same time, approximately 50 mm should remain to the bottom of the chamber). Then a pair of hinges is welded, a pre-cut door of the appropriate size is hung on them. A latch is attached to the door.

Note! If the firebox needs to be moved to an adjacent room, then a special rectangular apron can be welded around the door with an indent from it (the door) by 50-100 mm on each side.

Step 5 Further, a cutter is made above the combustion chamber - a rectangular steel sheet with cut corners. Through these cut corners, the sheet is welded to the body. The gaps remaining between the sides of the sheet and the walls of the pipe are enough for the passage of flue gases. This will contribute to the movement of smoke along the walls of the pipe, due to which they will warm up more intensively.

Step 6 Above, about 70-100 mm from the cutter, a grate is welded to the body, made in advance of reinforcing bars Ø 1.2-1.5 cm. This grate will serve as the bottom of the heater. The heater door is installed so that a person can easily open it from the steam room. The manufacturing technology here is the same as for the door to the furnace.

Step 7. From above, the body is welded with a steel sheet with a hole made in it (the diameter of the latter must correspond to the diameter of the prepared chimney pipe).

We weld the steel sheet in which the cover will be installed

Step 8. As noted above, a piece of the same pipe that was used for the body can serve as a water tank (if desired, the tank can be made of sheet steel). It is important that the bottom of this tank is exactly the same as the top of the heater. With the help of a welding machine, a pipe is attached to its bottom - it will pass through the center of the entire tank and protrude from above by about 350-400 mm.

It is also necessary to equip the tank with a cover made in the form of a semicircle. To do this, a piece of steel that will close the tank is cut into two parts. One of them is welded, and the other is attached to the first with the help of loops - this will be the semicircle cover.

Step 9 At the bottom of the tank crashes a tap to drain the water.

Note! It remains only to weld the gate to the chimney, about 30 cm from the water tank.

For this design, you can make a remote firebox. It is necessary to cut a sheet of steel, cut and weld it. The steps are shown in the photo.

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe

Video - Vertical oven from a pipe

Basic requirements for the installation of the furnace

For further installation work, a number of requirements must be observed.

1. The furnace is installed on a pre-prepared foundation, with a 20-centimeter indent from the wall.
2. In the place where the pipe will go outside, a thickening of about 120 mm is made.
3. All wooden elements are covered with insulating material (it can be, for example, asbestos or felt) with a layer of clay applied to it.
4. The section of the chimney between the ceiling and the roof is plastered and covered with lime mortar.
5. The height of the pipe section protruding above the roof must be at least 50 cm.
6. Shelves should be placed next to the wall where the stove is located. When installing a shelf, care must be taken that the person sitting there does not touch the ceiling with his head.

Creating a Horizontal Furnace

The horizontal design implies the presence of a mounted water tank and an outdoor heater. Such a stove is more compact, and due to the increased depth of the furnace compartment, it will allow you to quickly heat the room. During the manufacturing process, you need to perform the following steps.

Step 1. A piece 80 cm long is cut out of a steel pipe with a diameter of 50 cm. The edges are carefully aligned and cleaned.

We prepare the pipe

Step 2. A grate platform is being created. To do this, a rectangle measuring 80x40 cm is cut out of a steel sheet with a thickness of 1-1.2 cm. A hole is made inside the rectangle, after which reinforcement is welded to it (the rectangle). Alternatively, you can purchase a ready-made grate made at the factory.

Step 3. The grate is welded inside the body. The pipe itself at this time is located so that the seam on it is under the grate. The fact is that the metal burns out mainly in the places of welding, and such a simple technique will help to significantly reduce the thermal load on the seam.

Step 4 A facade (remote firebox) of a rectangular shape (height - 0.7 m, width - 0.6 m) with a rounded top is made from a steel sheet. A pair of rectangular cutouts is made in the facade - for the doors of the blower and the firebox.

Step 5 The back of the structure is also made of steel sheets, but the dimensions here are different - 0.9x0.7 m. By the way, the upper part of this element will also serve as a limiter for the heater.

Step 6 The back and front are welded to the body. A frontal limiter for the heater is welded in the center of the body, while it - the limiter - must exactly follow the contours of the body from below and the rear part from above.

Step 7 A rectangular hole 150x150 mm is cut out from the top of the case (in its rear part). On top of it, a furnace roof is installed, made of sheet steel, with a hole for the chimney. It is important that the hole is 12-15 cm closer to the facade - this will ensure not only cutting off the flame, but also complete combustion of the fuel (see the drawing diagram above).

Step 8 A chimney pipe is welded to the vault. By the way, the vault will also be the bottom of the heater. It is necessary to weld a reinforcement grid 20 cm high on the walls of the vault - this will increase the volume of the heater.

Step 9 The doors of the ashpit and firebox are attached. The furnace is cleaned with a grinding wheel in order to remove rust and scale residues, after which it is covered with a layer of heat-resistant polymer-based paint. The first heating is done outdoors to cure the paint.

Note! The chimney is brought out into the street in the same way as in the case of a vertical stove.

Step 10 A water tank is mounted on top of the back. To do this, a shelf is welded there, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the bottom of the tank. The heater is laid with stones, while one important rule is observed: it is necessary that their flat surfaces fit as tightly as possible to the iron walls in order to heat the latter more efficiently.

Video - Making a furnace from a pipe (horizontal version)

Summing up. A few words about IR radiation

Iron stoves have many advantages, but they all have one drawback - during operation, they form hard infrared radiation, which leads to uneven heating of the air in the room. But this problem can be eliminated by making brickwork around the heater. The brick should be placed about 10-15 cm from the stove, so that the air will circulate freely along the walls. In addition, the masonry also performs a protective function - an accidental touch to a heated brick will not lead to a burn, which cannot be said about hot metal.

Two or three holes remain in one of the lower rows so that cold air penetrates inside. Warm air will rise due to convection. You may also be interested in learning about the operation of a gas stove in a bath.

The easiest and most cost-effective way to weld a sauna stove is to use a regular piece of steel or metal pipe. Both cheap and cheerful. Such a furnace will function well, because its hermetic body will ensure 100% safety of a person resting in a bath. Yes, and special fences are not needed for her, which is also her undoubted advantage. And it’s not difficult to make it at all - it’s just a matter of a few hours.

How to arrange a place in the bath for such a stove?

But first, you should take care of the foundation for such a furnace - it is better to make it from concrete, 25-30 cm high. As soon as the foundation dries, you can start laying out a 70x70 platform on it, from brick in a row or two rows - only on clay mortar. For this, red or refractory bricks are suitable. As a result, the edge of the platform will rise above the floor by 15-20 cm.

It will be necessary to protect the walls of the wooden steam room from the strongest heating - with a protective screen of bricks on the ribs, linked with clay mortar. Its height should be at least 1 m 20 cm, and the stove for the bath from the pipe will be at a distance of 20 cm from the screen.

Installation of an already welded stove from a pipe to a bath must comply with fire safety

Technological features of assembly and welding

For the manufacture of this furnace, you will need the following details: a pipe 1.5 meters long and 0.5 meters in diameter. Its metal thickness should not exceed 1 cm, so that the future stove does not warm up for too long.

So, the pipe should be cut into two parts: 0.6 m and 0.9 m. The larger section will go to install the furnace and heater, and the smaller one will be used as a water tank. Now you can directly make the stove itself into the bath from the pipe:

• Step 1. At the bottom of the pipe, a cutout is made for the blower with the parameters: 18-20 cm wide and 5-6 cm high.
• Step 2. Above the blower, you need to mount a steel round plate 1.2 cm thick by welding.
• Step 3. Part of the metal must be cut out in order to place the furnace grate in the blower. And in order to fix the latter, four special “ears” must be fixed in the corners - using the same welding.
• Step 4. A niche for the firebox is cut out in the pipe and a door is made. Why do you need to hang a piece of metal with dimensions of 25x30 cm on hooks or loops and attach a latch.
• Step 5. Above the firebox itself, it is necessary to fix a piece of pipe 30x35 cm - this is the future heater. It must be positioned so that it is at least 10 cm from the top of the tank to the bottom. After that, the back wall of the pipe should be completely welded, and a 25x30 door should be made on the front.

• Step 6. In the finished heater, half of the volume must be filled with cobblestones. And so that they do not get enough sleep, it does not hurt to weld a special steel bar for fencing. You can, of course, make another design of the heater by welding a grate of steel bars directly above the firebox, and placing stones on it already.
• Step 7. In the upper part of the furnace, a coupling made of a steel tire 5-7 mm thick and 50 mm wide should be fixed. Half of the coupling must be welded to the furnace body, and the other half - the one that protrudes above the furnace - is used as a part for mounting the tank.
• Step 8. To the end part of the finished hot water tank from below, you need to fix a circle of 8 mm thick by welding. It is necessary to cut a hole for the chimney in advance in it - 12-15 cm. After that, the lower side of the chimney must be tightly fixed to the bottom of the tank - so that water cannot flow into the furnace.
• Step 9. The upper part of the tank should now be closed with a special semicircle of steel and make a hole in it for the chimney, and weld it to it. But the third part of the tank top area should remain open for water inlet - to close it, you will need to separately make a lid with a handle.
• Step 10. Now, on the chimney, you need to weld a steel platform 30x30 cm in size at a distance of 30 cm from the tank - this is necessary for mounting the pipe with a valve.

Illustration for the technological stages of furnace welding

A strong, durable and budget-friendly sauna stove is ready! It remains only at the bottom of the tank, just opposite the hole for filling the water, make a tap with a valve.

This type of simple and reliable metal stoves for a bath from a pipe can be made. By the way, the amount of welding work in this case will be much less than in the manufacture of a furnace from straight metal sheets.

Here it is important to check well in advance for corrosion damage to the pipe and take into account how long the pipe itself has been outdoors in the open. And it is important to weld all the problem areas in advance with “patches”, or cut furnace holes right in these places is also an option.

But this is the simplest design of a pipe sauna stove, and craftsmen also make such options:

How not to make a bomb out of this stove?

Main elements
pipe stoves

No matter how ridiculous it may seem, but from a pipe you can not only make a stove for a bath, but also a real bomb. This is due to the fact that gross errors are made in the welding process. For example, if the draft of the future furnace is too strong, for which it is necessary to make a valve in the chimney in advance, and it must be movable.

Secondly, it is important to prevent the possible ignition of soot, especially a large amount of it. And for this you need to equip the stove, if it is horizontal, with an afterburner: in the upper part of the pipe, a horizontal tray is welded for this purpose - on the floor of the stove deep. Further, almost at the top of the pipe, separating the main chamber from the entrance to the pipe, two holes are made in the wall of the stove itself. And so that they do not smoke, they need to be made into tubes, slightly bent towards the pipe. Such a simple design will add oxygen and help burn all combustion products, significantly reducing soot deposition.

And a couple more design touches - and the oven from the pipe that you got almost for nothing will become your pride!

When building a sauna stove, it is often difficult to make even a simple steel body. It’s easier to take a finished pipe, especially since the drawing of such a structure is quite simple. In many popular versions, the oven in the bath is located vertically. This is due to the desire to save space in the steam room. A drawing of a horizontal pipe sauna stove will help to make a durable structure.

The difference between horizontal and vertical ovens

From a space saving point of view, it is more advantageous to install a vertical structure, however, the specific shape of the horizontal furnace provides several advantages:

• convenience of fuel loading;
• small height of the furnace, and the optimal location of the heater box;
• since the fuel is distributed evenly in a horizontal type stove, the wood burns better.

Attention! Since the air flows around the round horizontal stove better, more heat is delivered to the water tank and stones.

Modern craftsmen create horizontal structures, because many people like the look of such a furnace. Due to the simplicity of the design, it will not be difficult to create it according to your drawings. Often, old natural gas cylinders are chosen for the construction of such a furnace. It is possible to install a piece of pipe from a water pipe with a diameter of 50 cm. The most popular design is a horizontal stove from a 53 cm pipe. Due to its horizontal position, it is durable and has optimal heat dissipation.

Advantages

When comparing stoves with different housing arrangements, several distinguishing features can be identified that affect the efficiency of air heating:

• Streams of flame and heated gases are directed to the chimney along the shortest path. At the same time, they are less in contact with the walls of the structure. The flame stream is located in the very center of the horizontal furnace.
• In horizontal furnaces, streams of heated gases rush to the top of the body. Only then they are thrown into the chimney due to rarefaction of air.
• The heat from the heated walls goes along the normal to them, which means that 90% of the heat is emitted in the horizontal direction. Due to this, the walls of the bath quickly warm up. However, the floor receives little heat.
• The stove, located horizontally, is able to warm up well all areas of the bath room, except for those adjacent to the floor.

The mass of the structure can be 60-180 kg. For this reason, the horizontal structure is installed in the center of the steam room on a rather simple frame. If you make 20 mm insulation, the structure can be installed even on an ordinary 8 mm steel sheet.

Construction of a horizontal stove for a bath

The special arrangement of horizontal stoves allows more efficient heating of the heater. In these furnaces, the furnace has a tubular shape. Below it are grates, usually made of rebar or cast iron strips. The water tank is placed on the top of the body or at the end. With this arrangement, the water will heat up quite quickly.

Tools and materials

When creating a horizontal furnace, the following materials are used:

• Pipe section. Its diameter should be from 50 to 53 cm. The length of the body is 80-100 cm. For a steam room of 20 cubic meters. m, the first characteristic is enough. If you need to heat the dressing room as well, it is better to add a pipe length of 15 cm.
• Rectangular sheet of steel 120x70 cm. A small layer of rust is allowed. The main condition is that the surface is even, without holes and dents. Metal should be chosen at least 3 mm thick.
• Metal profile. Corner No. 50 is often used. For one horizontal furnace, 1.5-2 m of profile will be needed.
• Reinforcing bars with a diameter of 6-8 mm. You can use trimmings of half a meter.
• Pipe 150 cm long and 110 mm in diameter. It will take several knees. The angle of rotation and their number should be selected in each case separately.
• Two doors - for blower and firebox.
• In addition to metal elements, you will need to find 20 electrodes for black and 5 for stainless metal.
• Discs for working with a grinder with a diameter of 125 mm.

It will be possible to build a horizontal type furnace only when using certain tools. The main accessories include the welding machine. In the process, you will need to cut steel sheets, so a powerful grinder should be included in the list of tools. The carbon dioxide semi-automatic machine is the ideal choice when you need to weld critical components. A simple impulse block is enough if you have work skills.

Important! If you choose old pieces of pipes, you should make sure that they do not have any deformations. It is better to use new material.

When installing a horizontal furnace for long-term work in a bath, it is necessary to purchase high-quality segments designed for medium pressure.

The design of the furnace with a horizontal firebox

Most horizontal ovens have an identical design. There may be slight differences depending on the version - the location of the water tank and the design of the ash pan. Before work, you should compare different projects, study the drawings.

The location and parameters of the grate are of great importance for the efficient operation of a horizontal furnace. If you make them too wide, the thrust will decrease. The width of the grate should not be more than 12 mm. They should be placed along the entire length of the combustion chamber.

When choosing between steel and cast iron grates, it is worth giving preference to the latter. Such elements will last much longer. To prevent clogging of suction with ash, the ash pan is welded in the form of a separate box. It is connected from below.

Often the window for loading fuel is made in the form of a box tunnel. Thanks to this, it turns out to bring the doors of the firebox and blower into the utility room. This eliminates the appearance of dirt and cinders from the washing.

The heater box is installed on top of the structure, closer to the chimney. The front of the case is always colder. Often it serves only to heat the air in the room. In some horizontal ovens, the chimney outlet is curved. This allows you to increase the contact area with stones and the water tank.

Furnace assembly

On a horizontal structure, a mounted container for water and a compartment for the heater are installed. Such a furnace is quite compact, and due to the increase in the depth of the furnace, the room is heated faster. When constructing a structure, a number of sequential actions should be performed:

Given the features of each stage, it will be possible to assemble an effective and durable design.

Furnace Installation Requirements

The remaining work on the installation of the furnace is carried out in accordance with the following requirements:

• Mount the oven on a pre-created base. It is installed twenty centimeters from the wall.
• In the place where the chimney will be brought out, a thickening of 120 mm is created.
• The pipe between the ceiling of the bath and the roof is treated with lime.
• The height of the part of the pipe that will protrude above the roof must be at least half a meter.
• Shelves must be installed next to the wall where the stove is placed. The person sitting on it should not reach the ceiling with his head.

Such conditions allow you to install the stove in the bath more rationally, avoiding common mistakes.

When creating a furnace from a pipe, you can make a mistake. As a result of an oversight, the design will not function efficiently enough. Therefore, in the process of creating a furnace, some tips should be taken into account. For example, installing a movable valve in the chimney will help to eliminate the rapid blowing of heat out of the structure.

When a lot of soot accumulates, it can ignite. To prevent such a situation, it is worth equipping a horizontal furnace with an afterburner. For this purpose, two holes are made in a certain section of the pipe wall, into which metal tubes are subsequently mounted, which are bent towards the pipe. This prevents the formation of soot. As a result, more oxygen will enter the furnace, and the firewood will burn out completely.

Given these tips, you can assemble a stove that can effectively heat the bath. At the same time, not much wood is consumed. The volume of the water tank depends on the features of the case.

conclusions

The level of inclination of the body does not affect the operation of the stove. Therefore, you can set it arbitrarily. It is possible to treat the chimney with a high-temperature composition. This will help eliminate the metallic smell. The pipe burns out after several fires and turns red. Further oxidation of the metal does not occur.

As you can see, you can build a horizontal stove for a bath with your own hands, if you get acquainted with the main stages of work and the features of preparation. It is important to choose the right materials and find all the necessary tools. With basic welding skills, you can make an effective design that will last for decades.

In the event that it becomes necessary to build a firebox for a steam room, it is possible to follow a simple path through the use of a metal pipe and tools in the form of a welding machine and a grinder. In this case, it will take a minimum of time to achieve the desired result - the arrangement of the stove for the bath. Manufacturing does not involve the installation of fences, and its capabilities in terms of space heating are determined by 20 m 3. As for the design of the proposed device, it can be both horizontal and vertical.

Furnace manufacturing process

To begin the process of arranging a stove for a bath, you will need the following blanks:

• pipe 426 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm;
• 5 mm sheet metal;
• small lengths of pipes;
• 2mm steel sheet;
• rolled metal.

The purpose of using sheet metal is to cut two circles, the diameter of which must correspond to the size of the pipe used. Circles are welded to the ends of the pipe, with one exception. One circle remains solid, while a 150mm hole is cut in the other. As a result, a solid blank becomes the bottom of the future furnace, and the one with a hole becomes the outlet for the chimney.

Next, you need to take care to make the doors. For this, a pipe with a diameter of 219 mm is suitable, to which a metal cover should be welded. Hinges must be installed on it, as well as a locking device, supplemented by an air regulator. In the latter case, we mean a device for the manufacture of which a 76 mm pipe is used. As a damper, it is supposed to use a metal circle 2 mm thick welded to a 5 mm wire.

The final step in the manufacturing process of the furnace is the arrangement of the heater fence. This is done by welding a metal cylinder, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the size of the furnace. It is optimal if this cylinder will be put on with little effort.

The activities described above are easy to implement, but if there is no relevant experience, then their implementation can be difficult. Therefore, it is advisable to first study the furnace drawing properly and view photographs of the already assembled device in order to get a correct idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow the thermal unit proposed for assembly should look like.

What is needed to make a stove?

1. Welding machine.
2. Tools capable of cutting metal. Although the best option is to find the possibility of using a special machine for cutting the appropriate blanks.
3. Steel pipe 630 mm with a wall thickness of 10 mm.
4. Blower door 125 x 250 mm, furnace door 250 x 250 mm and designed for the heater - 375 x 375 mm, including fittings with hinges.
5. 10mm steel sheet.
6. A grate made of cast iron, which should be a grate that is in demand in order to provide traction.
7. Cast iron blanks 50 by 50 mm.
8. Fittings.
9. Pipe 120 mm for the arrangement of the chimney.
10. About 35 pieces of fireclay bricks with non-standard dimensions - 250x125x

Stages of self-production of the furnace

Stage I

A 10 mm steel sheet should be used, which is necessary to cut 3 circles with a diameter of 610 mm. In one circle, a hole is made for the chimney (120 mm), and in the other, a rectangular opening for the ash pan.

The bottom of the furnace is welded at a height of 150 mm. A finished product made of cast iron is used as a grate.

Stage II

At this stage, the holes necessary to install the appropriate doors are prepared. The door of the heater is made taking into account the peculiarities of the internal layout of the bath. The main thing is ease of use, so the specific dimensions of the door are arbitrary.

Stage III

The sides for the doors are cooked by using a sheet, taking into account the passage through the wall.

Stage IV

The bottom of the firebox is equipped with metal scarves made of 10 mm steel, which must be installed in increments of 50 mm around the perimeter. Then the bottom is welded with sufficient reliability of the seam. This is due to the heavy loads on this part of the furnace design. Therefore, only a reliably welded bottom is able to provide the required strength of the furnace as a whole.

Stage V

The assembly of the steel frame is over, which now requires installation in place. After that, lining is started in order to create conditions for reducing heat losses. Fireclay bricks (250x125x40) are used for this. During the fitting of a brick, its numbering is required.

The bottom of the firebox is laid out, which is ensured mainly through the use of 11 bricks. The excess is cut with a grinder, and the bricks are fastened using a special mortar.

Stage VI

By means of the lining, the protection of the firebox is installed, which involves the use of 16 whole bricks and 16 halves. The result is a body height of 375 mm.

Stage VII

Cast iron blanks with a cross section of 50 by 50 mm are laid on the formed shelf, observing the distance between them - about 4 cm.

Stage VIII

The lining from inside the furnace continues. The first lower row is formed from fireclay bricks, fitted to the size of the cast-iron bars. This eliminates the contact of the steel part of the furnace with fire. Overlapping the top is considered optional, since this condition preserves the maintainability of the thermal unit. Although, if there is a desire, this can be done by means of plates, leaving a hole for installing a chimney.

Stage IX

The top cover is welded, the doors are hung, the chimney is installed and the stove is painted, which must be done exclusively with heat-resistant paint that can withstand temperatures up to 1200 ° C.

The above stages of manufacturing the furnace allow you to assemble a device that is lighter than the brick version of a similar thermal unit, but much more reliable. To obtain light steam, the temperature of the heater is brought up to 900 °C. In this case, the furnace is heated from 3 to 5 hours. To start steaming, you first need to wait for the wood burning process to complete, and then remove the coals.

Source: http://ruspar.ru/wiki/osnovy/pech-dlya-bani-iz-truby/

Horizontal oven

Consider a furnace that has a horizontal base. Here the heater is installed from the outside, and the tank is suspended. The positive aspects of the proposed furnace include its compact dimensions and a decent depth of the furnace, which guarantees the possibility of a quick heating of the bath.

The proposed work process includes:

1. Foundation preparation. Why do you need a pipe 0.8 m long, the diameter of which should be 0.5 m.
2. Production of a grate platform through the use of sheet metal with a thickness of about 12 mm and fittings. The size of this site should be 40 by 80 cm. A hole is made in it, which is equipped with reinforcement by welding it.

1. Creation of a facade, for the manufacture of which a rectangular sheet of iron 60 by 70 cm can be used. Two holes should be made in it, where one is intended for a blower and the other for a firebox.
2. Arrangement of the reverse side of the stove, which is also done using a rectangular metal sheet, but of a slightly different size - 70 by 90 cm. The top line of this sheet is the heater limiter.
3. The connection of the facade and back with the stove by welding. Fixing the front limiter in the middle of the furnace, the shape of which must coincide not only with the body of the thermal unit itself, but also with the contours of the rear limiter.
4. Cutting a hole 15 by 15 cm in the back of the stove for fixing a metal vault, which has a slot designed for the chimney.

1. Welding the vault, which serves as the bottom of the heater. To increase the volume, you can supplement it with a lattice of reinforcement welded onto the walls so that it rises by about 20 cm.
2. Equipping the ash pan and firebox with doors.
3. Installation of a shelf for installing a water tank. Fixed by welding. Its size should correspond to the size of the base of the thermal unit.
4. Equipment tank crane.

The last stage of work on the arrangement of a horizontal furnace involves the processing of its body: grinding, removing rust and scale as a result of welding. After that, the oven should be painted with heat-resistant paint and heated well so that the paint can bake.

Stove for a bath from 530 pipes

The furnace is made of a pipe with a diameter of 530mm and a thickness of 8mm, and 8mm sheet metal.

Furnace weight-234kg

The mass of stones is 141 kg.

The maximum volume of the steam room is 22 cubic meters. m.

Chimney diameter 133mm.

Furnace from a pipe 530 mm covering 3 rooms

The operation of the proposed version of the furnace makes it possible to provide heating of 3 separate rooms, isolated from each other. Under these premises should be understood the dressing room, washing room and steam room.

The equipment of such a furnace may include an external chipper in relation to the heater, which creates conditions for increasing the temperature of the stones, and it also acts as a spark arrester. The work of the chipper is possible in 2 positions: kindling and spark arrester. If the kindling position is selected, this will increase the draft when the chimney is not warmed up. As a result, the operation of the furnace becomes more efficient, and the sparking at the chimney outlet is reduced.

The design of the furnace is simple, which in no way affects its reliability. The oven includes all the necessary set of elements:

• tank made of stainless steel;
• a large firebox, the length of which is 60 cm;
• an open heater equipped with ribs to prevent water from running off.

The furnace furnace is made of a metal pipe with a diameter of 530 mm and a wall thickness of 8 mm. The shape of the firebox ensures even distribution of the heat load, which guarantees prompt heating of water, stones and a steam room. The design of the stove provides for a convenient ash pan and the ability to adjust the process of burning firewood.

For painting, heat-resistant enamel is used, which crystallizes after the first heating, which leads to the appearance of the protective properties of this substance.

Another version of the furnace from 530 pipes

Blueprints

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Choosing a metal pipe for assembling the furnace

To make homemade bath stoves from a pipe, it is important to choose the right consumables. So, pipes have their own marking, which determines the following parameters:

• main dimensions of products;
• mode of production;
• steel type;
• production standard.

To select a suitable pipe, two parameters should be taken into account: the internal section and the wall thickness. For example, marking 400 * 7, where 400 mm is the diameter, 7 mm is the thickness of the steel.

An efficient bath stove from a pipe should heat up quickly with a small amount of fuel material. To achieve similar results, it is recommended to use pipes:

• diameter from 50 to 60 cm;
• with wall thickness from 7 to 13 mm.

Varieties of tube furnaces

Home designs of stoves from a 530 mm pipe for a bath are in horizontal and vertical versions of the body.

Vertical structures

The vertical stove has compact dimensions, low weight, outwardly it is similar to a traditional potbelly stove, the only difference is the location of the main structural elements. In this case, the furnace compartment, the heater and the water tank are located strictly vertically.

The diameter of the furnace with a water tank depends on the diameter of the pipe that is used to make it.

The device is suitable for small-sized steam rooms, as it provides a small heat output. A significant disadvantage of the stove is that the doors of the furnace and blower compartments are installed in the steam room.

Horizontal structures

The horizontal design provides for the presence of a heater, a reservoir for heating water and a firebox. A feature of the heating equipment is that the protective doors of the blower and furnace compartments are located in the end part of the furnace body, which makes it possible to transfer them from the steam room to the technical room.

The stoves for a bath from a pipe with a horizontal body are overall and heavy, so they are suitable for installation in large baths. Despite this, they provide high heat transfer and good convection of heated air.

Advantages of homemade tube furnaces

A metal furnace can be made from pipes, sheet steel and spent gas cylinders. The best option is a device made of thick-walled steel pipe. It has a number of important advantages:

• High mechanical strength of the material, able to withstand sudden changes in temperature.
• Low thermal expansion and high thermal efficiency.
• Good heat capacity to save heat energy after long-term burning of the fuel material.
• The resistance of thick-walled metal to corrosion, destruction and deformation under excessive exposure to high temperatures.
• Efficient distribution of energy throughout the volume of the room and the creation of natural draft inside the structure.
• Reliability, practicality and long service life of the finished product.
• Affordable cost of material, ease of manufacture and installation.

Preparatory stage - the choice of drawing, materials, tools

A home-made stove for a bath from a pipe is made on the basis of a working drawing, which contains data on the structural elements of the device, as well as a diagram of its installation. You can develop a drawing of the furnace yourself or use a ready-made option.

Without drawing documentation, it is difficult to assemble the structure, since there is a high probability of making mistakes at any production stage, which can lead to inefficient operation of the equipment.

To make a stove with your own hands, you need to prepare:

• a cut of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 500 to 550 mm, a thickness of 8 to 15 mm, a length of up to 150 cm (for a combustion chamber and a water reservoir);
• a piece of steel pipe with a diameter of 310 to 340 mm, a thickness of up to 8 mm (for a heater);
• pipe cut with a diameter of up to 150 mm, a thickness of 2 to 5 mm (for a chimney);
• sheet metal up to 12 mm thick;
• finished grate or metal bar (for self-production);
• doors for the main chambers or metal (for a homemade model);
• heavy hinges for a garage door (for self-made doors);
• welding equipment (manual or semi-automatic);
• grinder with circles for cutting and stripping;
• electric drill;
• locksmith tool.

Arrangement of the foundation for the furnace

The next stage in the production of the furnace is the arrangement of a reliable foundation.

1. At the site where the furnace will be installed, they dig a pit up to 55 cm deep, 75 cm long and 75 cm wide.
2. The bottom is covered with fine-grained gravel up to 35 cm high, rammed.
3. The crushed stone pillow is poured with a concrete mixture in the following proportions: for 1 part of cement, 5 parts of sand and water. The base is kept for 24 hours before hardening.
4. A sheet roofing material is laid on the finished foundation, which is used as a waterproofing layer.
5. The waterproofing is poured with a concrete mixture: for 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 5 parts of fine gravel and water. The bases are carefully leveled and kept until completely solidified.
6. A 75 × 75 cm brick platform is built on a concrete base. Brickwork is carried out in a single or double row using a clay-based connecting mortar.
7. A shielding shield is made to protect the bath walls, near which the stove will be installed. For the screen, a refractory brick is used, laid on the side edge. Shielded protection can have a height of 1.2 meters, while the installation of heating equipment is carried out at a distance of 25 cm from it.

Manufacturing technology of a horizontal furnace from a pipe

The horizontal version of the heating stove is equipped with a remote heater and a removable tank for heating water.

Compact dimensions and an elongated firebox allow you to quickly and evenly heat the steam room. The removal of the protective door of the furnace compartment into the technical room will provide a convenient furnace combustion.

The assembly of the furnace structure is carried out as follows:

1. A length of 90 cm is cut out of the pipe. The edges are leveled and polished.
2. A platform for the grate is made: a rectangular blank measuring 75 × 35 cm is cut out of sheet metal. A hole is made in the center of the blank, to which rods are welded horizontally or vertically. Inside the cavity of the pipe, a factory grate is welded from below.
3. The site is welded so that the connecting seam of the pipe is located under the grate. This will prevent possible burnout of the metal case and reduce the heat transfer of the equipment.
4. The front panel for the furnace is made of a rectangular metal sheet with a rounded top. Optimal dimensions: in width - 55 cm, in height - 65 cm. On the surface, holes of a suitable size are made for the furnace and blower compartment. The casing is welded to the pipe.
5. The rear part of the body is made - a round billet according to the diameter of the pipe, welded to the finished structure.
6. In the middle part of the body, a restrictive element for the heater is welded.
7. At the top of the cut cut out a rectangular entrance under the chimney. Above the entrance, a furnace vault is welded with a hole made in it for a chimney pipe, which is fixed to it by welding. The finished vault is also the basis for the heater. To increase its volume, it is enough to weld a metal lattice of reinforcing bars up to 18 cm high to the wall from above.
8. Protective doors are hung for each chamber, and the surface of the stove is carefully polished to eliminate minor defects and signs of corrosion. After stripping, it can be treated with a heat-resistant paint composition.
9. Carry out the output of the chimney through the roof to the street. The area passing through the cold attic requires additional insulation. This will prevent condensation and corrosion.
10. A water tank is installed on the rear panel of the device. For ease of installation, a support for the dimensions of the water heater is fixed to the body by welding. The heater is filled with bath stones and a trial run of the furnace is carried out.

Manufacturing technology of a vertical furnace from a pipe

For a furnace design of this type, it is enough to prepare a cut pipe with a length of 900 mm and a diameter of 500 mm.

The assembly sequence of the structure is carried out in stages:

1. The lower edge of the pipe is carefully cleaned - it will be the base of the furnace. Next, an inlet window is made in the pipe for the blower chamber, which will be used to remove ash.
2. A metal bottom of the fuel chamber is fixed above the blower compartment, which fully corresponds to the size of the pipe. In the central part of the workpiece, an entrance is made for the grate and metal rods are welded.
3. A rectangle is made in the body for the firebox, which will be located above the grate. Door hinges are welded to the window, onto which a protective door is fixed.
4. A rectangular cutter is arranged above the furnace compartment, having cut corners, for which it is welded to the pipe base. When fixing the cut-off device, it is important to observe the technological gaps for the chimney.
5. At a distance of 10 cm above the cutter, a metal grate is welded to the pipe - the bottom of the future heater. Next, install a protective door.
6. The upper part of the heater can be covered with a sheet of metal with a small hole for the chimney. Along the edges of the heater, restrictive strips are welded for mounting a water tank.
7. The body of the finished device is carefully cleaned and coated with a heat-resistant compound.

Assembling a homemade sauna stove is affordable and simple, but requires some knowledge and skills in working with welding equipment.

Having studied the step-by-step instructions and recommendations on how to weld a stove for a bath from a pipe, each homeowner will be able to easily cope with the task without outside help. And the result of the efforts will be a practical and durable stove, which is suitable for heating a bath of any size.

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Features: pros and cons

Of course, such furnaces have their drawbacks - the processing of a thick metal pipe requires both the application of physical strength and tools for a certain type of work.

Types and characteristics

Preparation

It should be noted that the larger the diameter, the higher the consumption of firewood.

This information is needed in order to immediately competently prepare materials for the future stove. The best option for a pipe diameter is 0.5 m, which implies both good heat capacity and comfortable work. Pipes with a nominal value of 500 mm or more have a pitch of 10 mm and are usually classified as large diameter pipes. It is much easier to immediately select pipes that match each other in terms of cross-sectional diameter and wall thickness in order to facilitate the compilation of a concentric structure and reduce the gaps between them.

materials

Please note that it is advisable to make the fuel compartment, chimney and boiler not from ferrous metal, but from stainless steel. Although this is associated with some difficulties, since their welding will require electrodes from the same stainless steel or a special welding wire.

Schemes and drawings

After the foundation has dried, a clay platform is equipped, on which bricks are subsequently laid in the same dimensions - 0.7 m by 0.7 m. As a result, the brick platform should be about 15-20 cm high. In order to protect the walls from overheating in place, intended for the location of the furnace, a protective screen of bricks is laid out, which are laid with an edge and fastened with a clay composition. The best length for this structure is 120 cm, while the furnace is located at least 20 cm from it.

Manufacturing and installation

Look carefully at all the details. Before welding them together, when the installation is completed, do not forget to check its characteristics with a test fire: efficiency, coil operation. Go into the steam room, stay inside - evaluate the warming of the air around you.

Horizontal oven

By welding, the facade is attached and at the end the doors are hung - they are usually either made independently or purchased from a specialized store.

vertical

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Benefits of horizontal ovens

The vertical solution has an obvious plus - space savings. For too small baths it is difficult to come up with something more suitable. But otherwise, the advantages of the "horizontal" outweigh.

On a note! Both options have a common advantage. The cylindrical shape contributes to a better flow around the air streams. Therefore, more heat is supplied to the heater and hydraulic tank.

Advantages of the horizontal option:

• the longitudinally located body of the unit contributes to the formation of thermal radiation, which warms up the entire working space of the room; the area under the firebox warms up worse; vertical stoves do a better job of heating the walls, while a lot of usable area remains "overboard" for heating;
• the design implies a thin-layer distribution of solid fuel in the furnace; thanks to this, the logs burn almost completely and evenly; in vertical equipment, loading firewood in a thin layer will mean an excessively small bookmark;
• the heater is located lower - it is more convenient;
• loading firewood into the chamber, due to the low height, is also more comfortable;
• quick heating of the bath - a home-made unit is able to warm up the room in 40-60 minutes;
• durability - with high-quality manufacturing, the sauna stove will last for more than a dozen years;
• ease of manufacture and installation - pipe equipment is easier to make than, for example, a brick version;
• budget - even if the case has to be bought, the final price of the product will be quite low; in comparison with factory units or a fireclay construction, the price of a “pipe” is completely miserable;
• more attractive appearance.

This option also has disadvantages. Among the shortcomings is a rather rapid cooling. For this reason, the stove has to be heated regularly. In a spacious room, another minus becomes noticeable - uneven heating of the bath. In a small steam room, everything is in order in this regard, but in a public bath it is better to put several units in different zones.

Figure 2. One of the options for a horizontal unit

Features of horizontal equipment

Usually, craftsmen make sauna stoves from metal pipes 500 or 530 mm in diameter. Both used metal and custom scraps are used. The longitudinal option involves only the use of rounded blanks. This is not an axiom, but such a geometry gives additional heat transfer.

The mass of the unit depends on the thickness of the metal and most often ranges from 50-200 kg. Even the most massive structure is not too heavy, so a powerful base is not required. This can also be added to the list of benefits. Usually, a small metal frame mounted on a heat-insulating layer is sufficient for mounting a tube furnace.

What do you need to make a stove?

Of the tools you will need:

• welding machine;
• metal-cutting tool (grinder and / or metal shears).

Figure 3. Welding the sidewalls to the chimney

List of materials:

• cut pipe of the specified diameter; trimming length - 800-1000 mm; An 800 mm pipe is enough for high-quality heating of an average 20 cubic meter bath; if the room is larger, it is recommended to take a meter blank;
• smooth, not deformed steel sheet; sheet dimensions - approximately 700x1200 mm; minimum thickness - 3 mm; the presence of rust is not a problem, but the metal should strive for an ideal plane;
• 6-8 mm steel reinforcement; trimmings 500 mm long are well suited;
• metallic profile; a 50 mm corner is recommended, but a square will do; total profile consumption - 1.5-2 m;
• 110 mm "two-knee" pipe 1500 mm long; the angle of the knees depends on the design features, so the material should be selected along the way;
• 2 doors - for the firebox and ash pan.

In addition, approximately 5 electrodes for stainless steel and 20 pieces for ferrous metal are required.

Advice! You should try to avoid "used" blanks. They are usually characterized by a certain deformation, which is undesirable.

Production of a horizontal sauna stove

If you compare the various drawings, you can see that the 530 mm pipe furnace has the same design. The main design nuances relate to the location of the heater, chimney and hydraulic tank, as well as to the features of the blower and ash pan.

In the simplest version, the grate and ash pan are welded to metal corners (or another profile). The grate is recommended to be made along the entire length of the pipe, but with a maximum width of 100-120 mm. Wider elements will lead to poor traction.

Advice! It is better to use a cast iron grate. Practice shows that in the context of furnace heating, cast iron grates are more durable than reinforcing elements.

Sidewalls (in the vertical version - bottoms) are cut out, either based on the pipe section, or with an allowance relative to the upper and lower points. After installation, the lower zones of the sidewalls are adjusted to the hull supports. A sheet of metal can be welded to the bottom of the case, forming additional "wings". The latter serve as bonus heat conductors, enhancing the heat transfer of the furnace.

Figure 4. Cast iron grate at the bottom of the pipe

The ash pan is recommended to be made in a box-shaped format. A separate component allows you to do without clogging the air suction with fuel residues. The thickness of the metal for the ash pan in this case is similar to the thickness of the body pipe.

In such a design of a stove for a bath from a pipe, the heater is usually located closer to the chimney, in the upper zone. The frontal zone of the pipe is characterized by a lower temperature, so its task is to heat the bath air. Some diagrams show that the designers have bent the chimney more than once. Due to this, the contact area with the heater and the hydraulic tank is extremely increased. And, therefore, the thermal efficiency of such a unit is higher.

The fuel loading window can also have a variable design. But most often it is done in a tunnel format. This solution allows you to bring the elements of the ash pan from the steam room to the utility room. This also solves the problem of dirt in the device.

Installation of a tubular unit in a steam room

Figure 5. Drawing of a tube furnace

To competently make a stove from a pipe with your own hands, you need to follow a certain scheme:

• The edges of the body are cut with an angle grinder so that the outlet ends up with sidewalls located strictly at right angles to the axis of the body. Form a chamfer under the sidewalls.
• The metal is cleaned from rusty deposits and a metal profile is mounted in the pipe, which serves as a support for the cast-iron grate (or grate made of steel reinforcement).
• If, according to the recommendation, the ash pan is made into a separate box, the next step is to form a box element and weld it to the inside of the body. At the same stage, the prepared walls are vertically welded. On the front wall, a hole is made for the loading chamber. Alternatively, you can simply weld the doors of the ash pan and firebox.
• Mount a hydraulic tank and a container for stones.
• Form a metal support under the body. Thermal insulation material must be laid under the metal base.
• A smoke channel is made from pipes and knee elements. It is important to make accurate markings and ensure a safe connection of the channel to the body and chimney. This is one of the main problems with the arrangement of a longitudinally located furnace in a bath. Therefore, you need to make sure that everything is calculated correctly. If everything is calculated correctly and according to the drawing, the finished channel is welded to the pole elements - the pipe and the chimney.
• The surface of the case is covered with thermal insulation and a tin case. To maintain the level of heat transfer and increase the amount of moisture in the steam room, it is recommended to cover open body zones with removable covers.

Figure 6. Finished horizontal stove

Recommendation! Before operating the pipe, you need to make sure that the stove is reliably protected from corrosion. It is advisable to carefully grind the structure at the final stage with a grinder with a grinding nozzle. To enhance the anti-corrosion effect, the oven can be coated with heat-resistant paint. After coating with a coloring polymer composition, the product must be heated so that the paint becomes one with the pipe. But you have to do it outside.

Staining also allows you to get rid of the smell of metal in the room. But this is just a bonus, since the characteristic smell quickly disappears after several fires and without additional coating.

On this, the work on the manufacture of the furnace structure is completed. You need to make sure that the unit is installed securely and you can start bathing procedures. Although a slight departure from the axis of the hull does not make much of a difference, it is better to install the structure strictly along the axes.

To heat a horizontally located stove should be according to certain rules, which can be found on our website.

Conclusion

Even not the most “handy” user must have noticed that a pipe stove is really the simplest solution for heating a bath. Following the above scheme, you can quickly, easily and cheaply equip a steam room with an efficient and safe heating unit. Why turn pockets inside out when a similar effect can be achieved in simpler and more economical ways?

It is difficult to imagine a bath without a stove, because, in addition to heating the room, it is also a guarantee of comfort and enjoyment from the bath procedure.

It is easy to make a stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, and it will function well, and it will not require a lot of money and time investments. The simplest model is a bath stove made of a pipe with a large diameter. For its production does not need special experience and knowledge in this area.

Pros and cons of such ovens

The required properties for the material used in the manufacture of the furnace are heat resistance, strength, durability, and corrosion resistance. In addition, it must withstand sudden temperature changes and have good thermal conductivity.

Ferrous metal, from which a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 500-600 mm is made, cannot be called completely non-corrosive. But it is she who is optimally suited for the independent production of a sauna stove, as it meets almost all of the requirements listed above.

Having a wall thickness of at least 8 mm, it makes the furnace in the bath quite heat-intensive, in which heat is stored when the fuel has already burned out. And the round section inside it allows the heat to spread efficiently.

The use of a pipe having a round shape for a furnace in a bath reduces the length of the welds - these are the first places where corrosion occurs. and it is through them that carbon monoxide escapes. In addition, this option remains the cheapest, although ferrous metal prices are rising.

Types of furnaces - horizontal and vertical, features of choice, pros and cons

A do-it-yourself stove in a bath from a pipe, although it looks unpretentious, does an excellent job of heating a steam room. It is either vertical or horizontal. The choice directly depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe steam room and on the desire of the owner.

vertical

Outwardly, such a stove resembles a common potbelly stove, but differs in its design features. In addition to the firebox and the compartment where stones are laid, there is a special tank where water is heated. This type is ideal for a small bath.

The furnace and the grate are located one above the other in steps, which makes it possible to save space. Therefore, this model is gaining popularity for installation in baths.

However, it is worth noting that it is less effective, since the heat goes up, and the walls do not have time to warm up. In addition, in a vertical design, the fuel burns faster. And the main drawback is the presence of a firebox and a compartment to increase traction in the steam rooms of the bath.

Horizontal

The horizontal shape is recommended for bath rooms with a large area.. Equipped with a compartment where stones are laid and a water tank. The firebox is more voluminous, and its doors and blower are located at the end of the pipe, they often go into the room in front of the steam room, which speeds up the heating process. In addition, such an arrangement is more convenient, since when kindling, there is no need to enter the steam room, and it does not cool.

Unlike the vertical type, this type of heater requires more space, but since the firebox is longer and located at the bottom, this significantly increases the heating area and improves the natural exchange of warm air in the bath. Therefore, experts recommend this particular model, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bath allows.

What we need - tools and materials

Before proceeding with the independent production of a bath stove from a 530 pipe, you should prepare a place to work and stock up on the necessary tools:

• welding machine;

• grinder with different nozzles;
• electric drill;
• metalwork tool;
• door handles;
• mortise crane;
• asbestos cord.

In addition to tools, you will need the following material:

1. Thick-walled metal pipes for fireboxes and water tanks, having a diameter of 500 to 650 mm and a wall thickness of 8-16 mm, and a length of 1.2 to 1.5 meters. Also, the pipe through which carbon monoxide will exit, its diameter is 120 - 150, and the wall thickness is 2 - 4 mm.

1. A steel pipe where stones will be laid. The thickness of its walls is 5-8 mm, and the diameter is 350.
2. Sheet metal, size 600 by 800 mm, having a thickness of 8 - 12.
3. Hinged steel hinges.
4. Water pipe - a piece of small size, suitable diameter ½ or ¾ inch, length 50 - 80 mm, and a ball valve with similar threads.
5. Metal reinforcing bars - 500 mm, diameter 12 - 18.
6. Cement.
7. Brick.
8. Sand.

Schemes and dimensions of the vertical and horizontal furnace

After choosing a model, before making a stove for a bath with your own hands, a drawing is drawn, it must necessarily reflect all the parameters and configuration of the stove. A correctly drawn up drawing will not only facilitate the installation process, but also eliminate malfunctions.

The diagram should reflect the main parts of the furnace. If this is your first time making a stove in a bath, then it is better to use a ready-made scheme.

Horizontal Model Diagrams

It is the model in which the horizontal pipe is most often installed in baths, if the area allows.

Schemes of a vertical furnace

As for the horizontal oven, a pipe with a diameter of 530 is also ideal for a vertical model.

An example of a drawing of a furnace in a vertical bath, which is easy to mount on your own.

Furnace collection process

Naturally, a do-it-yourself stove assembled from a pipe in a bathhouse will not look super perfect in appearance. However, it looks quite decent, and it will perform its main functions no worse than the factory model - uniform heat release.

When installing a stove in a bath, it is worth remembering that it carries a risk of burns and must comply with all fire safety measures, so you must follow the installation rules:

• you need to put it on the foundation, stepping back from the wall 0.2 meters;
• at the point where the pipe exits to the outside, a thickening of 120 mm should be made, and it should protrude above the roof by at least 0.5 meters;
• all wooden elements must be treated with an insulating compound with clay;
• the section of the chimney, between the ceiling and the roof, must be plastered and lime mortar applied;
• shelves should be placed near the wall where the stove is installed.

Foundation

Independent production of any model of the furnace in the bath begins with the installation of the foundation.

1. At the place in the bathhouse where the stove is planned to be placed, it is necessary to dig a hole 0.5 meters deep, and the length and width can reach 0.7 meters.

1. Fill it up to 0.3 meters with crushed stone, small fractions, and tamp well.

1. Prepare a mortar, cement and sand, at the rate of 1 to 4, dilute with water.

1. Pour the solution into the pit and leave for 24 hours to dry and harden.

1. It is necessary to put roofing material on top, it will protect from moisture.

1. Prepare a concrete solution, its composition is cement, sand, fine gravel and water, in a ratio of 1 to 2 to 4. Pour roofing material with the resulting mixture.

1. It is good to level the base with a building level.

When the mortar dries, brickwork can be used for a more aesthetic appearance.

grate

The grate is a special grate that provides traction. There are two ways to make a grate.

1. Cut out a metal rectangle with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm, the size corresponding to the parameters of the pipe inside.
2. In the manufactured part, remove the middle, leaving places for welding at the edges.
3. Weld metal rods to this frame, placing them horizontally or vertically.

1. Cut a circle out of metal, its diameter should match the pipe inside.
2. Cut large holes in the circle, you get something similar to a sieve.

The structure is welded inside the pipe, it is located 15-20 cm from the bottom.

Chimney

This structural element is an important part of any furnace, it is necessary for the release of the combustion product.

Chimneys are:

1. Ceramic - the most resistant to high temperatures. The service life of such models is the longest.

1. Brick - since the surface is rough, the accumulation of soot occurs quickly, which leads to a slowdown in air draft.

1. Steel - this option is most suitable for a do-it-yourself bath, since its price is not high. The material has a low weight and high strength, in addition, it withstands temperature extremes well, is resistant to water and corrosion. It heats up quickly, so they put a tank of water on it for further bath procedures.

The assembly process is simple:

1. First you need to mark the place for the hole and make it according to the marks.
2. Attach a steel casing to the pipe, put on the rings and fix them to the ceiling. Fix its lower edge with self-tapping screws.
3. Bring the other end to the roof. Expanded clay, clay or asbestos can be used to fill the gaps between it and the roof.

Assembly of the horizontal model

A stove made of a horizontal pipe for a bath has a heater located on the outside, and the tank is mounted. The advantage of this device is that it has a compact size and a large depth of the furnace. In it, the fuel burns completely and, consequently, more heat enters the bath.

The instruction for the independent production of a horizontal type stove in a bath is as follows:

• You will need a 2-meter pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, which has thick walls, you need to put marks on it. To do this, it lies on a flat surface on its side, is fixed and, having indented 1/3 of the diameter from the bottom, two lines are drawn on it in a horizontal direction, located in parallel.

• A base for a round firebox is cut out of metal, with a size equal to the length of the pipe, and a width corresponding to the distance between the lines.

In the middle of the circle, a rectangular or square window is made into which the grate must be mounted. Perhaps just weld reinforcing bars in the form of a lattice to the bottom of the window.

• The base is inserted into the main pipe of the stove strictly according to the marks and fixed by welding inside it.

• Two blanks are made from a metal sheet with thick walls, so that their lower part carries the function of the legs of the device. And the width of the walls should be 20 mm greater than the diameter of the pipe. To give an aesthetic appearance, the front wall is rounded, and the back remains rectangular, a water tank will be mounted to it.
• On the front wall of the furnace, a window is made for the furnace and a compartment for enhancing traction. The lower level of the firebox opening is located 0.03 meters up from the base of the firebox. And the upper face blew below the container with stones by 0.01 meter.

• Doors are made from cut parts. They are welded to the front side of the furnace with loops near the openings. Handles and latches are attached to them.
• Each end plate is attached to the base of the pipe and fixed with a weld over the entire area.

• To increase the heat transfer of the furnace, it is recommended to install an additional chamber between the windows of the furnace and the chimney, in which the accumulated heat is transferred to the stone. You will need a pipe 350 mm, with a length of 0.35 - 0.45 meters. It needs to be cut in half horizontally. One edge is welded with a cap having the shape of a semicircle.
• A hole is cut out in the upper part of this device, slightly offset from the middle. The size of the opening should be equal to the diameter of the chimney. A 0.1 meter pipe is inserted into it to connect the chimney.

• At the top of the main structure, not far from the wall located at the back, a round hole with a size of 150 mm is made. Further, the prepared dome is installed in the furnace tube so that both openings are in relation to each other with a small offset. Then it is welded to the main pipe.
• The final stage - a metal basket is made around the additional chamber, made of welded reinforcing bars, it will hold the stones. And a water tank is attached to the back wall, and you can start testing the sauna stove from the pipe that you assembled with your own hands.

Advice! Since the firebox and the window to enhance the draft are brought into the room in front of the steam room, it is recommended to decorate the wall around the door for protection with metal plates.

Watch the video

Assembling the vertical oven

It is a little more difficult to assemble a vertical type of sauna stove on your own, since the stones are laid directly into the furnace tank.

The step-by-step algorithm of work looks like this:

• A hatch for the blower is made in a thick pipe. It is required for air to enter instead of burning fuel and to collect burned-out ash. It is cut out by a grinder, stepping back from the bottom 0.04 meters, and measuring 0.24 by 0.08 meters.
• The furnace compartment is made out, at a distance of 200 mm from the top of the blower. It should be located on the same axis with it. To do this, a small rectangular hole (0.24 by 0.20 meters) is cut above the grate. The cut out metal parts will be required as a door, so you need to cut carefully using thin discs.

• A container is made for loading stones, it is located just above the firebox (0.12 - 0.18 meters). This window is in the form of a circle (350 mm), it is displaced along the pipe in the required direction by 90 degrees.

• The second pipe, having a diameter of 350 mm, is cut to a length equal to the diameter of the large pipe outside. From above, slightly retreating from the front edge, a piece in the form of a scoop (¾ parts) is cut off. A wall is welded to its rear part, and a semicircular plug is welded to the front end. It is needed to carry out the laying of stones and give water to them at the time of visiting soared.
• This scoop is inserted into the opening of the main body of the sauna stove. It should protrude 20 mm from it, and inside, around it, there should be free space. The perimeter of the opening must be well welded. If required, the scoop can be additionally fixed with reinforcing bars, which are pre-welded inside the main structure.
• A grate made in advance is welded, it will be the base of the firebox. It is located parallel to the floor, at a distance of 0.02 meters from the top of the blower.

• A circle is cut out of metal, the size of the outer diameter of the pipe, it must be welded to its lower part. If you plan to raise the heater above the floor, then you can weld the legs made from a profile corner.

• A water tank is being made, a chimney will be located in it. At the tank, the side walls are the main pipe of the furnace, and its bottom is the top of the firebox.
• The bottom of the tank is made of metal, the size corresponding to the diameter of the stove body pipe. On this part, at a distance of 0.05 meters, it is necessary to draw a round opening to enhance traction. A chimney is welded to the hole, so that in the structure it is higher than the furnace.
• The bottom of the barrel with a chimney is installed in the furnace body, it should be located 100 - 120 mm above the stone container, and away from the "scoop".

Furnaces made of steel or iron pipes easy to manufacture and are intended for use in steam rooms, small production shops and in winter working change houses.

Depending on the purpose of the premises are selected different diameters and arrangements furnace bodies.

Description of typical schemes of furnaces from a pipe

The pipe oven is perforated metal cylinder for the firebox and ash pan and a chimney welded on top. Exists two main options pipe ovens:

• horizontal;
• vertical.

Horizontal models are suitable for baths and industrial premises, as their design provides for tank installation for heating water and other accessories.

On "lying" stoves braziers and grills are installed for a barbecue, which makes them the best option for a personal plot or cottage.

vertical ovens occupy a small area and are suitable for heating and cooking in small country kitchens.

Reference. IN vertically located furnace wood burns faster and give more heat, and horizontal structures melt more slowly, but keep warm longer with less fuel consumption.

How to do it yourself: drawing 500x530x800

Before starting the installation of the furnace, the type of its location is selected and a drawing is being developed taking into account the purpose of the structure, the available area for installation and the availability of the necessary building materials.

Photo 1. An example of a drawing of a home-made bath stove from a horizontal type pipe. Upstairs there is an additional heater.

Choice of materials and tools

The pipe for the furnace is being made iron or steel diameter 0.4—0.6 m depending on the type of construction. Thickness walls - 6 to 10 mm, thicker metal is more difficult to process, and thin walls are deformed at high temperatures.

When determining the diameter and height of the future furnace, the builder guided by the volume of heated space and planned fuel consumption, as in a larger firebox, the combustion of firewood is faster and more heat is released.

During the installation process, the builder you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine;

• grinder with interchangeable discs;
• drill with a drill;
• fittings;
• steel wire diameter 2.5-3.5 mm;
• chimney pipe diameter 0.15–0.25 m;
• thick steel corners 4-8 mm;
• Sheet steel;
• oven doors and hinges;
• cement and sand;
• formwork boards thick 1.5-2 cm.

If the stove is made for a bath, then you also need stainless steel for water tank and tap.

Preparing the site and pipes for assembly

After choosing a project and purchasing materials the place is being cleared under the base in accordance with the drawing. Suitable for horizontal structures pile type of foundation, and for vertical - monolithic.

Foundation pouring for a vertical oven is done like this:

1. A square hole breaks out in the soil depth 15-30 cm and side 20-30 cm more diameter firebox.
2. The bottom is covered with crushed stone, on top of which reinforcing knitting is laid.
3. Wooden formwork is installed on the sides of the pit so that its edges protruded 10-15 cm above the ground.

1. The legs of the future furnace are welded to the upper edges of the reinforcing tie so that their upper edges rise above the formwork at a height of 10-15 cm.
2. Sand mixed with cement in a ratio of 3:1 and diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream.
3. The pit with reinforcement is filled with ready-made cement mortar to the upper level of the formwork and leveled.

To save the solution, it is permissible put a brick in the hole, fastening it with cement and laying reinforcement. A brick foundation is suitable for a not too massive stove.

Important! For the furnace base are used only refractory grades brick, since during long-term operation, ordinary brick is destroyed, which leads to the fall of the structure.

For reinforcing knitting rods are taken diameter 1-2 cm, which are welded into a lattice with perpendicular protrusions at the nodes. The upper parts of the legs are leveled with a building level and, if necessary, cut off and re-welded.

Reference. Cement mortar dries in a pit at least 7 days during which the furnace is assembled.

The pipe is prepared by edge leveling And grinding of protrusions grinder. If the outer or inner surface is covered paint, then it is cleaned with grinding discs or sandpaper to avoid the release of toxic substances during the combustion process.

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The order of construction of the stove

building vertical furnace is carried out as follows:

1. Cylinder pipe cut 1-1.5 meters long.
2. At a distance of 5 and 20 cm from the bottom pipes are cut two rectangular holes for ash pan and firebox with sides 30x5 cm and 30x20 cm respectively.
3. From the reinforcing bars, a grate is welded in the form of a lattice with a side equal to the diameter of the furnace.
4. The grate is given the shape of a circle by cutting the corners with a grinder so that it can freely enter the cylinder.

1. Between the holes for the ash pan and the firebox inside the furnace are welded three corners at equal distance from each other so that the grate rests on them.
2. The grate is welded to the supports through the opening of the firebox.
3. Cut out from sheet steel by a grinder two circles according to the diameter of the pipe, they are welded to its lower and upper base.
4. The cylinder is mounted on supports protruding from the foundation, holes down and welded.
5. A hole is made in the top cover equal in diameter to the chimney, which is welded to the stove.
6. Hinges are attached to the side and doors are installed.

bottom thickness kiln is taken within 6-10 mm. If the design does not have an internal ash pan, and the grate is at the same time the bottom, then leg length selected at least 10 cm For added strength, the lower disc is reinforced with corners welded in a circle.

There is a variant of a grate made of iron sheet with holes drilled in it. 2-3 cm in diameter. The grate is installed on the inner corners of the furnace in the same way as the reinforcing grate and is welded.

Reference. To save money, the cut-out part of the cylinder is used as a material for the doors of the furnace and ash pan, which compact around the perimeter with steel stripes 2 cm wide welded on the outside 1 cm overlap doors.

After completing the assembly, the furnace heat up and if necessary insulate the chimney with glass wool.

Possible difficulties

During the manufacture and operation of the structure, in some cases the following problems occur:

​

• instability of the furnace on the foundation;
• jamming of the firebox door;
• weak smoke draft;
• poor weldability.

precarious position a vertical pipe occurs when a poor-quality brick foundation is made or the legs are unevenly installed at a high furnace height.