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Distribution of water supply in the apartment by hand. Proper water distribution in the apartment - protection against leaks

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From this article you will learn:

  • Why is a plan so important when distributing plumbing in an apartment
  • What types of plumbing schemes in the apartment are
  • How to correctly calculate the required diameter of pipes for plumbing in an apartment
  • What are the most common plumbing mistakes in an apartment?
  • How to make plumbing in an apartment with your own hands
  • What determines the cost of plumbing in an apartment

The overhaul in Moscow is one way or another connected with the installation of new systems of supply and internal engineering networks, which directly include plumbing communications. In particular, interfloor sections of risers, water pipes should be changed. Before starting these works, you need to understand how the plumbing is done in the apartment. From our article you will learn how to choose the type of material, pipe diameter, lay them, and what are the features of the assembly.

Where does the correct plumbing in the apartment begin?

The first thing to start with is to create a plan. Take seriously the event for the distribution of water pipes in the apartment. An incorrectly designed plumbing scheme will create many problematic situations in the future. If, even before the start of the overhaul, you notice that the water supply system is not working properly, then it's time to check the plumbing in the apartment in order to find and fix the breakdowns.

It may seem that designing a plumbing system in a home is a simple task. You just need to conduct water from the central riser to the points of analysis. The list of points in each apartment can be individual. The simplest example: two sinks - one in the kitchen, the other in the restroom, plus a toilet and a bathtub.

However, for modern apartments, complicated schemes are being developed. So, in the room there may be household appliances that require tap water for their work. Do you use a washing machine or dishwasher? Then the plumbing layout in your apartment will not be 100% simple.


In the bathroom, in addition to the bathtub, there can be a shower cabin with many additional options, for example, hydromassage. And near the toilet can be placed another plumbing installation - a bidet. In addition, if your apartment is large, you will most likely have not one, but two toilets. Obviously, the level of comfort in this case increases. However, the load on the water supply system also increases.

In such a situation, the water supply must work better to match the load placed on it. Moreover, the technique is very sensitive to changes in water pressure, which depends on the developed wiring diagram. A good piping design firstly increases the performance of the plumbing system, secondly, reduces the cost of installing and using it, and thirdly, makes plumbing system repairs easier.

Types of plumbing schemes in an apartment and their features

The apartment’s plumbing project (it doesn’t matter if you ordered it from specialists or made a drawing on paper by hand) should reflect the location of the toilet, bathtub and sink, as well as the connection method, diagrams, methods for laying inlet and outlet branches. Therefore, you must understand the basic principles of assembling piping, regardless of whether you install communications on your own or turn to professionals for help.


What is a point?

When calculating the cost of work, the contractor and the client usually mean different things by this term. In this regard, it is recommended to clarify which works are included in the price per point. In addition, study the final estimated cost of plumbing work in the apartment.


When conducting plumbing in an apartment, the price can be fixed, subject to standard working conditions in a normal room. It includes a supply (outlet) from the plumbing connection point: an installed local faucet or a sewer outlet in the bathroom.

Plumbing installation is not included in the price for point installation. This is explained by the fact that, for example, connecting a dishwasher and a hot tub differ greatly in terms of labor costs. Therefore, the cost of these works must be calculated separately.


Appliances such as washing machines and dishwashers are equipped with one make-up, that is, the water point will be single. In the case when two supplies from cold and hot water are needed (for example, a boiler or a mixer is used), this is considered to be a double point. A large length of pipe laying, non-standard or hidden plumbing in an apartment, as well as other features of work can increase the cost of work per point.

What are the types of piping?

In total, there are three types of water distribution in the apartment, through which water flows from the riser or main pipeline to the consumer:

  • collector;
  • tee (serial);
  • with through sockets.

If you live in a multi-storey building, then you will have a wiring diagram:


These two schemes have both pluses and minuses and can be used depending on the conditions. Moreover, you can combine two schemes in one apartment.

  1. Tee (serial) plumbing scheme.
  2. To create and install a pipeline in a standard apartment, this scheme is best suited. It is presented in the form of a common pipe to which the existing devices (consumers of cold water) are connected in series. Similarly, the distribution of the hot water system occurs.

    The main pipe is selected with a larger diameter compared to other water pipes, because it acts as a collector. With the help of tees, plumbing is connected, which is why this scheme is called a tee.

    This system is easy to create not only in theory but also in practice. In old Soviet apartment buildings, such plumbing in the apartment is standardly used, the photo of which you can see below. Its main plus is a small number of water pipes. Accordingly, the installation costs of this type of wiring will be quite low.


    The peculiarity of this type of wiring is that it can be used only in those apartments where there is little plumbing installed. The problem is this: the longer the system becomes, the less pressure at the end. As a result, plumbing equipment connected at the end of the system will not be able to function correctly due to low pressure.

    Also, one of the disadvantages of a sequential system is that if a faucet or tank breaks down, the water supply system will not work properly. To repair plumbing, you will have to completely shut off the water in the entire apartment. You simply cannot disconnect one point from the water supply due to a serial connection.


    Professionals highlight other disadvantages that you may encounter when servicing a tee system. Most often, the connection points are under decorative trim, so getting to them will be problematic. If a leak occurs, you will not be able to immediately determine the location of the pipe break.

    To repair the plumbing, you will need to gouge walls, remove false panels, and more. After completing the pipe repair, you will be forced to re-decorate the room. Even taking into account all the above minuses, the tee water supply is the most common at the present time.


    For small apartments, this plumbing system is the best. After all, this is the most budget option. Since the length of the water supply system is small, the water pressure in the pipes remains satisfactory.

    However, if you want to not only save on the installation of the pipeline, but also on its use, you will need to responsibly create a plumbing plan for the apartment, as well as provide access to all tees. In no case should you buy cheap low-quality materials. Otherwise, it can lead to breakage and leakage of pipes.


  3. Collector wiring of water supply pipes.
  4. This type of piping allows you to connect many points of consumption, which can be located far from the riser. The collector scheme means that the connection takes place in parallel: a faucet, a shower, a toilet bowl, a bidet are connected to the collector using an individual tap with a valve.


Main advantages collector scheme:

  • the water pressure does not change, no matter how many plumbing fixtures are connected;
  • it is easy to find a breakdown on a separate line;
  • the collector system for distributing water pipes in the apartment is reliable, since the number of connections in it is small;
  • you can shut off the water on one line, while other lines can be used. So, making repairs in the shower, you can wash the dishes in the kitchen or use the washbasin.
  • with a collector wiring system, the connection lines are hidden in boxes or niches. The interior of the room will not be damaged.

Despite significant advantages, this wiring system has some minuses:

  • to install it, you will have to purchase a large number of pipes;
  • time-consuming work on setting up parallel connections. Even if you invite professionals, it will significantly hit the budget.

Collector scheme of water distribution in the apartment:


Thanks to the use of collector wiring in the apartment, you can increase the efficiency of the devices. Install filters and pressure regulators on individual outlets that match the characteristics of the water consuming equipment used, as well as satisfying the conditions of use of this equipment.

Compared to the tee system, here you will need a much larger number of pipes. The collector system is difficult to implement, so a specialist who has little experience may not even be able to cope with the design of the circuit. Before starting the collector connection, it is necessary to choose a place for installing the collector, from which water will be supplied.


You will also need this device if the hot water supply in the apartment is centralized. Installation of a collector for hot water supply occurs separately. Then, between the collectors and the common riser, water pipes with a stopcock are installed. With it, you can turn off hot or cold water in the apartment, if necessary.

Also on this section of the water supply you can install coarse filters, electric taps of the emergency protection system against leaks and other devices. After the installation of the collectors is completed, you can begin to supply pipes for each plumbing fixture.

We carry cold water to the toilet bowl, as well as to the washing machine. Hot and cold water - to the sink, bath, shower. We connect the heated towel rail to the hot water supply manifold.


In addition to all of the above, the system may include filters, gearboxes and other devices. We mount shutoff valves between the collector and the water consumer. With its help, you can shut off the water supply in the selected area if necessary.

If the dimensions of your apartment are impressive, the best option would be to use a combined wiring diagram, when several consumers are connected to a collector branch, connecting them with pipes. As a result, this part of the water supply system will have the same disadvantages as the tee system.

So, if a breakthrough occurs, you will be forced to turn off this part of the water supply. However, the combination of tee and manifold schemes helps to reduce the cost of installing a water supply system. Also, this option is ideal if your apartment has an individual layout.


Which pipes to choose for plumbing in an apartment

Work on replacing the plumbing in the room should begin with the selection of pipes. Steel products are no longer used. On the market, you can find pipes made of materials such as metal-plastic, plastic or brazed copper. Approach the issue seriously: the costs, your work, as well as the result of the plumbing work in the apartment depend on it.

Copper

Those who advertise pipes made of this material either do not know what they are talking about, or they know, but they themselves would not use such products. Contacting with water, copper is oxidized, verdigris is formed. Of course, a person needs trace elements, including copper, but in small doses. Otherwise, copper turns into poison. In contrast to this fact, many claim that copper and chlorine from water form a protective film. Anyone who remembers at least a little chemistry lessons will understand that this is unreliable information.


In addition, solder for copper is composed of tin. Initially a soft metal, white tin changes its shape over time, turning into gray tin (an allotropic modification in the form of a free-flowing powder).

Thus, we certainly know that when we perform plumbing in an apartment from copper pipes, we will get a leak. Moreover, you will not be able to solder them on your own, you will have to seek help from the craftsmen from the company that sells these same copper pipes. And this is an additional cost.

metal-plastic

Despite the fact that this material cannot be called cheap, you can mount such pipes yourself. The metal-plastic water pipeline is assembled using threaded assemblies with gaskets or under crimping (on fittings).

You can bend metal-plastic pipes at the right angle. And the hydrodynamic resistance and pressure loss in such pipes are negligible.


To insert pipes into a fitting, you will need a pipe cutter, press tongs, and a set of reamers (reamers) suitable for the diameter of the pipes. Using these devices, you will cope with the distribution of plumbing in the apartment in a matter of hours. On the contrary, using improvised means, you will ensure leakage in the future. You should not hide such pipes in the walls, since the gaskets in the fittings will eventually need to be replaced. If they are not replaced, this will again lead to leakage at the junction.

It is best to mount metal-plastic pipes in an open place so that the resistance to water flow is as low as possible, while you can sort out the joint. For example, this action will be required when connecting a boiler, washing machine or dishwasher. In any specialized store you can purchase adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes.


Plastic

Most often, plumbing in apartments is made of plastic pipes. However, this material on the market can be of different types. We list the main types of plastic so that you can choose the best option.

  • Polybutylene (PB). It bends perfectly, has a high thermal conductivity for this material. Withstands temperatures up to 90 °C. If you solder the joint correctly, it will never leak. Usually this material is used for underfloor heating. Polybutylene is considered a fairly expensive material.

  • Polyethylene (PE). A budget option, however, for hot water supply, you will need polyethylene reinforced pipes, since simple polyethylene will not withstand temperatures even at 60 ° C. This material does not bend, it is impossible to glue it, the brazed joint can withstand a pressure of 3.5 atm. At the same time, the pressure of the city water supply system is up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water supply and 4.5 atm for hot water. Accordingly, no one guarantees that a breakthrough will not occur. Polyethylene has the least hydraulic resistance, and this is a definite plus. Despite all the disadvantages, polyethylene pipes have one advantage that outweighs the disadvantages: such pipes do not respond to low temperatures. Even if an ice plug bursts them, after it melts, the pipes shrink back. They will never burst, no matter what happens. Obviously, the use of polyethylene pipes is mandatory in unheated, seasonal, and also in the ground. Finding a replacement in such situations is simply impossible. However, if you use such pipes and your system is full all the time, you will need an aquastop.

  • PVC (PVC). Polyvinyl chloride has characteristics such as chemical resistance and heat resistance up to 80 °C. This is a budget material, it is easy to glue, but it is not strong enough, it reacts to ultraviolet light. Soldered or glued joints will be much less strong than solid PVC. Therefore, the likelihood of a breakthrough is high. In addition, you will need an aquastop. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC is not as easy as performing the same operation with collapsible metal-plastic. If you want to save money or you are new to repairs, then you should use this material only if the length of the main branch from the riser to the remote draw point is up to 10 m, and the total number of points is no more than 7.

  • Propylene (PP). The most commonly used material for plumbing in an apartment is polyisopropylene. Budget, durable and resistant material allows soldered joints, thus the quality of the base is not disturbed. It has high heat resistance up to 130 ° C, withstands up to 12 atm, if you soldered it correctly. The hydraulic resistance of propylene is slightly higher than that of PVC, however, plaque accumulates in the lumen in negligible amounts.

Cons when installing on your own:


Before buying pipes, you will need to determine their approximate diameter. Let's figure out how to do it. When calculating, it is worth proceeding from the principle: the narrower the pipe, the lower the costs. But remember that too small a diameter will lead to turbulence in the flow in the pipe, and its throughput will decrease: water from a tap at normal pressure will drip, not flow.


Only professionals can make accurate calculations, but if you live in a city apartment, you can independently calculate the pipeline so that the water pressure suits you.

So, the initial data is as follows:

  • The smallest admissible pressure - 0,3 at.
  • Pressure loss per 1 m of a 16 mm propylene pipe - 0.05 at.
  • Average (for plumbing in an apartment) pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings - 0.15 at.
  • The pressure loss in the selection and accounting unit is 0.25 at.
  • With standard values ​​​​of pressure at the inlet to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm, periodic turbulence is present in a 12 mm pipe, and absent in 16 mm pipes.
  • The head margin for the far point must be at least double.

Now we find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet. We will also find out whether there will be enough pressure for the far point when the water supply is sequentially distributed in the apartment with an ordinary pipe, or if you need more expensive pipes that are wider in diameter. At the bottom of the riser, we determine the pressure using the pressure gauge in the basement. Next, subtract 0.6 atm for each floor.

For clarity, let's look at a specific example. The second floor of a nine-story apartment building. The water pressure of the neighbors from the upper floors suits. This means that the pressure will be at least 4 at. 11 fittings: 5 tees, 6 elbows and 1 valve - we end up with 1.65 atm of loss. 6.5 m - the length of the pipe from the riser to the farthest point in the kitchen, respectively, another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 \u003d 2.225 atm of losses are obtained. Quite a lot, so you should check the pressure with a pressure gauge. Then you need the main pipe 20-25 mm. You can also wire in parallel from the comb, otherwise in the summer you may be left without water.

From the example considered, it becomes clear that it is very important to straighten the pipes, it is not recommended to lengthen them, as well as to clutter them with fittings.


So, here are some general tips for choosing pipes for plumbing in an apartment:

  • you are going to carry out hidden wiring of the water supply in the apartment in gates - use propylene pipes;
  • you have long branches, with many points of water intake, then the best option for you is metal-plastic, open or in channels with removable covers;
  • polyethylene is ideal for use in the country, cottages with remote outbuildings, for swimming pools, greenhouses, and so on;
  • PVC can be used if you want to save money, as well as when there is a shortage of water, when the pressure in the water supply is low or the water is of poor quality.

Common mistakes when wiring plumbing in an apartment

Do-it-yourself plumbing in an apartment: soldering propylene

In no case should propylene be soldered using a handicraft method using a butt soldering iron, because:

  • dirt and dust will accumulate on the “sausage” inside, such a pipeline will become clogged even more than from steel;
  • water pressure bursting pipes can break the joint. If the water temperature is 16°C and the ambient temperature is 20°-25°C, then the fatigue threshold of the material will be exceeded in less than 3 months, and a leak will form in the joint.

The scheme may look like this: we use solder fittings: straight (to connect pipe sections), angled ones, as well as tees or crosses. We heat the pipe until it becomes soft. We insert it into the holder of the heated fitting, after which we wait until the joint hardens. The water pressure will press the pipe from the inside to the clip, thanks to which the joint will be reliable, the fused zone will be sealed. Since propylene is a rigid material, the yoke that surrounds the pipe cannot expand elastically. Thanks to this connection, as well as the properties of the material, the propylene pipeline can be hidden in the wall for many years.

The soldering process itself is simple: soldering iron tips - internal and external - are inserted into the fitting and onto the pipe. We turn on the soldering iron, wait until its temperature reaches 250 ° C (look at the indicator and wait for the signal). We take out the pipe with the fitting, insert them into each other and give time for the joint to cool. Ready! You can continue soldering.


A soldering iron designed to work with propylene will cost at least 2,000 rubles. It cannot be used to work with other materials, so it is recommended not to purchase it specifically, but to rent it.


How much does plumbing in an apartment cost?

The price of plumbing in an apartment is determined based on the following parameters:

  • the size of the apartment;
  • water distribution method: tee, manifold, hidden in the wall, outdoor;
  • total number of points;
  • type of bathroom: separate, combined;
  • the number of necessary plumbing equipment: taps, filters, counters.

To find out the exact amount, it is best to contact a specialized company. Its staff will advise you and give you an estimated cost.

Cooperate with the company "My Repair" - it is reliable and prestigious. The specialists working here are professionals of the highest level. The company "My Repair" operates throughout Moscow and the Moscow region.

When building a new house or carrying out repair work, it becomes necessary to design the layout of water supply pipes.

When performing the entire complex of operations, it is necessary to take into account many factors: the wiring diagram, pipe material, installation of control devices, planned changes made during the work. A program to replace steel pipes with plastic pipes is being implemented in the residential sector during the overhaul of buildings.

Planning

The entire complex of planned works should be carried out in stages, in compliance with the order of work.

List and sequence of work:

  1. We select the material of pipes that will be installed indoors.
  2. We draw up a scheme for piping in rooms, taking into account the wiring of hot and cold water supply.
  3. We calculate the diameter of new pipes, taking into account the wiring.
  4. We select the necessary tool for the work.
  5. We purchase pipes, fittings and other materials that will be needed during the repair.
  6. We carry out preliminary installation of all units and pipelines for distributing water supply.
  7. We remove plumbing fixtures and old pipes.
  8. We make installation of HMS and aquastop (according to the connection scheme).
  9. We mount the filter flask.
  10. We are working on the installation of the pipeline.
  11. We install and connect plumbing fixtures.
  12. We carry out a test run of water into the system and eliminate possible defects.
  13. We carry out the installation of the boiler (if necessary).

Water quality instruments

HMS for water purification To normalize the quality of drinking water in apartments and individual residential buildings, special devices are installed that improve the quality of water.

This group of devices includes:

  • special hydromagnetic device (HMS);
  • universal flask filter;
  • pressure stabilizer - aquastop.

HMS is a special hydromagnetic device that converts foreign small impurities contained in water - a suspension deposited on a filter that is cleaned on certain days. HMS installation requires the use of a control water flow meter with protection against magnetization.

Paired with HMS, a flask filter is used, made in a single housing, divided into three parts: sections: for the accumulation of foreign impurities, a section for removing chlorine-containing substances and a third chamber, where the final purification of tap water is carried out with an increase in the "softness" index.

Aquastop - a device used to urgently shut off the water supply in the event of a drop in water pressure in the water supply system.

A selection of material

In the construction or repair of buildings, metal (cast iron) water pipes are used less and less.

Preference is given to innovative, better-performing materials that provide better water quality and a longer service life of the plumbing system.

Specialized companies offer pipes made from materials:

  • copper;
  • metal-plastic;
  • artificial ingredients.

The use of copper pipes primarily requires large financial costs associated with the high cost of the product.

Many experts point to two factors that negatively affect water quality:

  • when interacting over a certain period of copper with water, copper oxide is formed, which is a poison;
  • the negative effect of the solder used when soldering copper pipes on the state of water, white tin in the course of long-term operation of the pipeline gradually passes into another state - gray tin, which is a gray fine-grained powder that enters drinking water and degrades its quality.

Pipes made of metal-plastic, which are assembled using special connecting elements equipped with threads or by crimping fittings, are widely used.

Pipes have plasticity; they can be bent depending on the direction of the water supply. The loss of water pressure in the network and the hydrodynamic resistance are negligible.

For pipe installation, a special tool is used:

  • crimping pliers;
  • pipe cutter;
  • a set of reamers corresponding to the diameter of the pipes used.

Installation of pipes should be carried out taking into account the provision of open access to the pipeline for possible repair work.

Plastic pipes are made using:

  • polyethylene (PE);
  • polybutylene (PB);
  • polypropylene (PP);
  • polyvinyl chloride (PVC).

For the installation of a pipeline using polyethylene during the installation of HMS, a modification of polyethylene pipes with reinforcement is required, which allows pumping water with a temperature above 60 °C.

Polyethylene pipes cannot be arbitrarily bent and glued, and their connection is carried out during the soldering process with the formation of a strong seam, which allows you to withstand the impact on the rupture of the water supply network at a pressure of up to 3.5 atm.

In the city water supply network, water pressure drops occur, reaching when hot water is supplied - 4.5 atm., Cold - 6 atm. Polyethylene pipes with a low value of hydraulic resistance do not collapse when exposed to negative temperatures.

To prevent the occurrence of destructive water pressure in the system, an aquastop is installed without fail, blocking the water supply if necessary.

Polybutylene pipes are able to maintain their characteristics up to 90°C.

To connect the ends of the pipes, soldering is used, which forms a strong seam that can withstand high water pressure in the network.

This type of pipe is used for the installation of "warm floors".

Pipes made of polypropylene have high tensile strength, are joined by soldering and withstand temperatures up to 130 ° C, water pressure up to 12 atm. Fittings are used for connection, followed by soldering at 250°C using a special soldering iron.

PVC pipes are also widely used for pipelines for internal wiring, mainly for cold water, as they withstand temperatures up to 80 ° C.

The connection of pipes is carried out by gluing, and the pipeline has limited strength and is installed together with the aquastop.

Laying scheme

In the premises, 2 types of piping are used:

  • consistent;
  • parallel.

Serial connection is carried out at one point with a branch from the main pipe, using tees for pipeline branches. This is the most economical system, but when several consumers are connected at the same time, a sharp decrease in the water pressure in the network is possible.

Parallel piping scheme To maintain the standard pressure in the pipeline, it is possible to connect using a parallel, more productive and capacious, manifold-collector scheme, which is a series of valves that regulate the flow to individual branches. Usually for the manufacture of "combs" use metal-plastic or polyethylene.

The wiring diagram is drawn up taking into account all changes made during the work, and must contain accurate information about the pipeline. During the construction of a residential building, the plumbing piping scheme is included in the overall design of the building.

The diagram shows:

Calculation of the pipeline section

To maintain a constant pressure of water in the water supply system, a calculation is made of the diameter of the installed pipes, in which the water supply would be observed without noticeable drops.

For calculations, the initial data are used:

  • the value of water pressure (minimum) in the system is 0.3 atm.;
  • pressure loss per 1 shoulder strap. m pipe (propylene) d=16 mm - 0.05 atm.;
  • indicators of pressure loss in the connecting node - 0.15 atm.;
  • decrease in water pressure when water passes through the control device - 0.25 atm.;
  • the pressure reserve that must be maintained in the system is 2-fold.

All work is carried out taking into account the norms and regulations in accordance with SNiP 2.04.61-85.

Installation of metering devices

To account for the consumption of hot and cold water, control devices for recording water consumption are used, which consist of:

  • corps;
  • special shut-off valve;
  • prefilter;
  • control counter;
  • safety check valve.

When installing the device, the correct connection must be observed without fail. Control devices are delivered to the sale sealed, and after mandatory installation they are subject to mandatory registration with the call of the water utility inspector.

The installation of the pipeline must be carried out in compliance with the technology of work, which allows the system to be operated for a long period without accidents.

Watch the video in which the specialist explains in detail how to properly install water pipes in a house or apartment:

Even an inexperienced master can equip the water supply system of a private house with his own hands. Manufacturers of modern plumbing fittings have done everything possible to simplify the technology of joining water supply elements. And we will tell you about the procedure for installing home plumbing - from marking the lines to letting water into the taps.

How is domestic plumbing

In most cases, the water supply of a private house is based on an autonomous source of drinking quality. It could be a well or a well. Therefore, the internal water conduit in the house starts from the pumping station, or rather, from the first shut-off valve that cuts off the pressure unit from the wiring.

Behind this valve are a branch of cold water and a hot water supply line (DHW). And in most cases, the DHW line is formed on the basis of a branch from a cold pipeline that enters a heating device that generates hot water.

Sources of consumption - taps, faucets, dishwashers and washing machines, drain tanks, etc. - are connected to the cold and hot branches using taps cut into the main hot or cold pipe or manifold. In the latter case, the consumer is forced to buy more pipe fittings. However, using a water collector will save you from pressure surges in the network. To put it simply: You won't get scalded in the shower after someone uses the cistern.

The joints of the branches and the center line are beaten with the help of tees. Turns (angular mates) are made using corners. In order to facilitate the repair process, a shut-off valve is cut into the outlet to the source of consumption. It allows you not to turn off the water in the whole house in case of repair of one tap.

As you can see, a typical plumbing in a private house is very simple. Any novice locksmith can assemble such a network. And you need to start designing a water supply network by calculating the footage of pipes and the number of connecting and shut-off fittings.

How to calculate the footage of pipes and the number of fittings

If the water supply is based on the main pipe, then the distribution of water in a private house begins with the laying of a central line encircling the building around the perimeter. The footage of the pipes in this case is equal to twice the sum of all the houses (two perimeters).

With a collector, the situation is more complicated. In this case, a separate line will go to each crane. Therefore, the footage in this case can only be determined according to the full-scale scheme, by drawing lines on the walls along which the wiring will be laid. After completing the drawing, measure the length of the lines and write down the footage of the cold and hot branches.

If you are building a water supply system with your own hands, the full-scale wiring diagram does not fit in any case. Take blue and red crayons in your hands and draw a path for laying cold and hot pipes on the walls, indicating the positions of tees, angles and shut-off valves with arbitrary icons. This drawing will help you not to make a mistake with the length of the pipes and the number of valves, and during installation it can be used as a contour for laying the fixing elements that hold the pipes on the wall.

The number of corner fittings is determined by turns (corner mates). The number of valves is calculated according to the consumption sources (one per source plus one more if we are talking about a mixer). Tees are considered only when arranging a water supply system based on a central line, determining their number by the number of valves.

After that calculation and subsequent purchase of fittings and fittings, you can do it in any private house in just a day. And how this is done, we will tell further, discussing separately both the cold and hot branch of the water supply.

How to wire a cold water line

Installation of a cold water supply in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. This node is placed in the kitchen area if it is located near the toilet and bathroom. Otherwise, the collector is placed closer to the sanitary zone. Moreover, this work is easy to do with your own hands - for this you need to do the following:

  1. 1. We buy a collector, the number of taps of which is equal to the number of consumption sources.
  2. 2. We fix it on the wall using screw clamps with a self-tapping leg or brackets on the distributor housing.
  3. 3. We lay a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ¾ inch from the central valve of the water supply to the inlet pipe of the manifold, using collet fittings for mating.
  4. 4. Using the same fittings, we equip the outlets with a diameter of ½ inch from the collector to the points of consumption, laying the pipes in the baseboard area. Moreover, a valve should be installed between the pipe and the collector, locking each outlet.
  5. 5. Having reached the outlet under the sink (cistern, tray or bathtub), we draw up a vertical section, raising the pipe 50 cm above the floor.
  6. 6. We connect the pipe and the tap (faucet or tank) with a bellows or reinforced hose.

In the final, we mount the faucet on the sink, connect the drain to the sewer. And we repeat this operation with all points of consumption. On this, the installation of the cold branch can be considered completed.

How to equip a hot water supply line

The DHW branch is done in almost the same way as the cold water supply. Only instead of the central valve, the starting point for the hot line is the cold branch manifold.

From this distributor we draw a line ½ inch in diameter to the heater. Moreover, at the connection point, you need to embed a check valve so that water from the boiler or column heat exchanger does not drain back. It is described in a separate article.

The next step is to mount the collector for hot water. It is placed either under the boiler, or in the bathroom or in the kitchen. Next, a pipe with a diameter of ½ inch is pulled to the distributor mounted on the wall, connecting the manifold and the "hot" fitting of the boiler / boiler.

In the final, separate hot water supply lines are connected to each mixer, connecting the taps and the distributor. Moreover, to facilitate the connection of the pipeline to the tap, you can use a bellows hose. The reinforced version is not recommended in this case - it is designed for cold water.

If there are no more than 2-3 sources of hot water consumption in the house, then the collector can be replaced with a pair of tees, laying the central line to the shower or faucet in the bathroom, and equipping the outlet to the kitchen. But in this case, get ready for pressure surges in the case of simultaneous operation of faucets in the bathroom and in the kitchen.

How to save money on plumbing

Installing a water supply system in a private house will be much cheaper if you follow a few tips. First, stop using elbow fittings. The metal-plastic pipe can be bent along a 25-centimeter radius, fitting into any turn.

Secondly, special manifolds with shut-off units at each outlet will help save on valves mounted under each entrance to a tap or mixer. Third, consider the location of the flow splitter. Ideally, it should stand between the kitchen and the bathroom. But if there are more taps in the bathroom, then it is better to move the collector there. In this case, you will spend only on one kitchen outlet.

Fourthly, if the distributor and the consumer device are separated by 2-2.5 meters, then instead of pipe fittings, you can use a reinforcing or bellows hose of the appropriate length. Fifth, when choosing between metal-plastic and polypropylene, vote for the first option. Polypropylene pipes are mounted using a special welding machine or expensive electrical couplings. Therefore, professionals will have to be involved in such work. In addition, polypropylene does not bend like metal-plastic.

If you listen to these tips, you will be able to save up to 10-15 percent on the cost of consumables.

Nowadays, it is possible to install an autonomous water supply system in a private house, which significantly increases the comfort of living. Now there is no need to carry heavy buckets and heat water in a basin to take water procedures. If the water supply is installed in a building under construction, it is possible to take into account all the wishes at the design stage, and its implementation will be much easier. If the building has been erected and has been in operation for a long time, then arranging a water supply is more difficult, but possible.

Schematic arrangement of plumbing in the house

The layout of the water supply in a private house that is in operation requires solving additional problems of tying the pipeline to the existing premises and the location of plumbing fixtures. In addition, it will be necessary to knock out openings in the walls, floor and foundation for laying pipes. All this creates additional difficulties, but it can be implemented if desired.

Plumbing systems

Depending on the power source, there are:

  1. Centralized water supply system. It is arranged if a central water supply pipe passes near the house, to which water supply is supplied. It is easier and cheaper to arrange such a system, but in the future it will be necessary to pay for the water supply. In addition, it is difficult to control the quality of water.
  2. Autonomous water supply system. Requires significant physical and financial costs, but the quality of water is much higher. Autonomous water supply is absolutely independent of the utility. The source of food is wells or wells, arranged on a personal plot.

The source of drinking water from which the water supply is taken should be no closer than 20 meters from a cesspool, compost heap, toilet, septic tank, etc.

Pump and its connection

Most often, submersible or surface pumps are used to supply water in the water supply system. The choice depends on the power source of the water supply. First you need to decide whether it will be a well or a well. The well is much cheaper, this work can be done by hand. But its device requires great physical effort, and the water in the well, due to its shallow depth, does not pass through sufficient natural filtration and contains many harmful components. For wells up to 8 meters deep, it is advisable to install a surface pump, lower a flexible hose from it into the water for intake. The pump itself can be installed in the house, utility room or directly near the well.

The well is arranged by specialists with the help of special equipment. They conduct surveys on the availability and quality of water. Wells are built quickly, the water from it is always clean. Wells are very expensive. To draw water from a well, a submersible pump is used, which is lowered to a great depth in the water.

Left - surface, right - submersible pumps

Plumbing schemes

There are two main plumbing schemes:

  1. A serial connection scheme is used for temporary water supply, for summer cottages or for a house with low water consumption. In this scheme, all plumbing fixtures are connected in series, from one pipe. If one plumbing fixture is working, then pressure drops significantly in all the others.
  2. The collector scheme of the water supply system requires a lot of money for the device and materials, but it is possible to simultaneously operate several devices without losing pressure in the pipe. In this case, water is supplied to the collector, and pipes depart from it to each plumbing fixture separately.

Water pipe connection diagram

  1. A control station that regulates the operation of the pump and shuts it down in case of danger.
  2. Cord with plug for connecting to the mains.
  3. A cord with a socket to which the pump is connected.
  4. Circuit breaker. In case of danger to the equipment, it turns off.
  5. Mains electrical outlet in the house.
  6. A submersible pump is lowered into the casing pipes of the well, collects water and delivers it to the surface.
  7. Cord that provides power to the pump.
  8. Nipple for connecting pipes; threaded on both ends.
  9. The check valve is designed to prevent water from returning to the pump.
  10. The injection pipe through which water is supplied from the well to the surface.
  11. Cross, provides the intersection of pipes in one plane.
  12. Adapter nipple, designed to connect pipes of different diameters.
  13. Flexible hose that connects to the control station.
  14. A hydraulic accumulator is a container for storing water.
  15. Pipes for supply to consumers.

When laying pipes, the most time-consuming process is the preparation of the building structure. Following the laying scheme, it is required to make holes in the walls and hollow out the strobes. Thanks to them, it will be possible to hide pipes in the walls.

Types of pipes

Steel

These are traditional pipes tested for many years, which until recently were most widespread. Nowadays, they are being replaced by pipes made of modern materials with the best technical performance.

Pros:

  • Relatively low cost;
  • material strength;
  • Large assortment of fittings for them.

Minuses:

  • subject to corrosion;
  • Formation of plaque on the inner walls of pipes;
  • Good electrical conductivity: in the event of a wire break, the current is transmitted through the steel structure and may cause injury;
  • High labor costs during installation. Pipes are connected by welding, which can only be done by a qualified specialist, or by threaded connection. Installation is difficult and dangerous.

Galvanized

The product is much better and more reliable. The zinc-coated surface does not corrode and does not adhere to deposits of salts or other minerals.

Pros:

  • High strength;
  • Do not corrode;
  • No residue remains on the walls;

Minuses:

  • High price;
  • Conductivity of electricity;
  • Corrosion can form at the joints;
  • Difficulty of installation.

Copper

Copper pipes have many advantages, but the cost of such material is quite high. It is advisable to use them to beat the water pipes in the interior of the house, because. they have a beautiful appearance.

Pros:

  • Do not corrode;
  • Deposits do not stick to pipe walls;
  • Wide operating temperature range;
  • Aesthetic appearance;
  • Long service life.

Minuses:

  • High price;
  • Small assortment of fittings for pipes;
  • The complexity of installation;
  • Due to the thin walls of the pipe, it is easy to damage.

metal-plastic

These pipes have recently appeared on the market and have already become widespread. They combine the qualities of metal and plastic.

Pros:

  • Do not corrode;
  • Do not conduct electricity;
  • Ease of installation;
  • Large assortment of fittings.

As a minus, you can consider the fact that their service life is limited.

Polypropylene

These pipes in terms of technical characteristics have the best performance.

Pros:

  • Low cost;
  • Ease of installation. Pipe soldering is easy to do with your own hands without noise and dust, and the soldering equipment has a compact size;
  • Elasticity that prevents damage;
  • material strength;
  • Long service life.

The only drawback is that the connections can no longer be disconnected.

Polypropylene pipes for hot water must be reinforced with fiberglass.

Pipes and fittings for plumbing

Pipe diameter

Choosing the right diameter is very important for the water supply system. If the diameter is small, then extraneous noise will occur inside the water supply, and if it is large, then the pressure will decrease, and more energy will be required to provide the desired pressure.

The diameter is determined based on the length of the water pipe:

  • With a length ≤ 10 meters Ø = 20 mm;
  • For lengths ≤ 30 meters Ø = 25 mm;
  • If more than 30 meters Ø = 32 mm.

Water consumption is determined based on the diameter and number of plumbing fixtures. According to these indicators, the required collector is determined:

  • Ø 25 mm passes 30 l of liquid in 1 minute
  • Ø 32 mm passes 50 l of liquid in 1 minute

Initially, it is necessary to determine the number of consumers and the length of the water supply, based on this, the optimal pipe diameter is determined.

Water supply installation

Installation is carried out from the power source to the consumer. Installation begins with the installation of a pump in a well or a pumping station for a well.

Pump installation

The pumping station is installed on the surface. You can put it in the house, which will make it easier to control, but it is noisy in operation. The best place for her utility room.

The submersible pump is lowered into a deep well. A cable is connected to the unit to secure it at the desired depth. Using an adapter or a clamp, a flexible hose is attached through which water is supplied to the accumulator.

Installation of a hydraulic accumulator

The accumulator is designed to maintain a stable pressure in the water supply and protects the pump from idling. Such a device is an optional element of the system; it is installed in two cases:

  • to increase the pressure of water in the system;
  • during interruptions in the water supply.

What do accumulators look like?

A hydraulic accumulator is mounted at the highest point of the water supply system, but so that it has access. A tee comes out of the storage tank, on which shutoff valves are installed. The other two outlets go to the cold collector and the water heater.

Collector device

The collector is designed to evenly distribute the pressure in the pipes for all consumers. The number of collector pipes depends on the number of plumbing fixtures that are consumers.

Cold water collector

Cold water from the pump or filter is supplied to the collector. A shut-off valve with a drain cock is installed in front of it, so that, if necessary, it is possible to disconnect the collector from the pipe.

Filters are installed for better water quality. They must be installed in front of the manifold and boiler.

The second flow is sent to the boiler, which heats the water to the desired temperature and is fed into the hot collector, where it is distributed to consumers.

Each collector outlet has a shut-off valve and, in the event of repair work on one device, the entire system continues to operate smoothly. A separate pipeline for cold and hot water is laid from the distributor to each device. For a private house and apartment, polypropylene pipes are the best choice.


How to solder polypropylene pipes with your own hands:

  1. The dimensions of the pipes for wiring are determined, they are cut to the required length. Cutting is easily done with your own hands using special scissors. It is important to ensure that the blade of the scissors is perpendicular to the pipe.
  2. The depth of adhesion is marked on the edges.
  3. The soldering area must be thoroughly cleaned from dirt and dust.
  4. A nozzle of the appropriate diameter is installed on the soldering iron.
  5. The soldering iron turns on and heats up to the desired temperature.
  6. The pipe advances in the nozzle of the soldering iron to the mark.
  7. After 7 seconds, the nozzle is removed and the pipes are connected. They need to be held a little, but not rotated.

Soldering water pipes

Plumbing installation

The laying of the water supply system is carried out from the collector to each consumer in the following sequence:

  1. The distributor has taps for each pipeline, if not, then shut-off valves are installed.
  2. A pipe comes out of the faucet.
  3. The next pipe is connected by a fitting using a soldering iron.
  4. For rotation, a corner fitting is arranged.
  5. To fit the pipes to size, they are cut with special scissors.
  6. Clips are mounted to the wall, with the help of which the pipe is attached to the wall.
  7. Water consumption devices are connected (washbasin faucets, shower, sinks; compact; washing and dishwasher, etc.).

piping in the house

  • If pipes pass through walls, it is advisable to enclose the pipe at the point of passage with a ring to avoid their contact.
  • The distance between the pipes should be 200-250 mm for the convenience of repair work.
  • It is necessary to fix the pipes with special clips mounted on the wall. Mounts are installed in the corners, and on flat areas they are located at a distance of 1500-2000 mm.
  • It is necessary to minimize angles and turns in the pipeline.

Video about water supply

This video will tell you about the water supply device in a country house with your own hands.

After a short briefing, laying the plumbing can be easily done by hand. To do this, you need the necessary tool. During operation, it is necessary to monitor the reliability of the connections so that there is no leakage. High-quality work will ensure reliable operation of the water supply system for a long time.

In contact with

Will tee or collector wiring of water supply pipes in an apartment be better? In order to answer this question, one should not only carefully study the principle of installation in both cases, but also evaluate the pros and cons of each option. Comparison of the features of installation and operation with the conditions of a particular object (house or apartment) will allow you to make the best choice. The importance of the choice cannot be underestimated - the convenience of using water supply systems (hot and cold), the durability and maintainability of communications depend on it.

Technically, a tee wiring diagram for water supply in an apartment is a serial connection- one pipe departs from the riser, to which plumbing and other water-consuming equipment is connected using tees.

The advantages of such a system are:

  • cost-effectiveness (when connected in series, a minimum number of pipes is required),
  • ease of installation.

Tee wiring diagram in the apartment also has its drawbacks:

  • a large number of connections and serial connection make it difficult to find leaks,
  • there is always a risk of pressure drops in the system and a decrease in pressure at the points farthest from the riser when several taps are turned on at the same time,
  • if it is necessary to carry out repair work, a complete shutdown of the water supply will be required, which is a certain inconvenience,
  • installation of tees is not always convenient in a small space.

Tee water supply schemes Recommended for small apartments. With a small number of consumption points and their location close to each other, many disadvantages become less relevant - in this case it is much easier to coordinate water consumption, which means that the risk of pressure drop is minimized.

When installing a tee scheme, tees are often hidden in the walls or under the floor, which complicates the inspection of communications, and during repairs inevitably leads to damage to the finish.

Collector scheme

Collector wiring in the house makes it possible to connect a large number of consumption points, including at a distance from the riser. Collector scheme is a parallel connection- each element (faucet, shower, toilet bowl, bidet, etc.) is connected to the collector using an individual outlet equipped with a valve.

The advantages of the collector circuit are:

  • pressure constancy regardless of the number of plumbing fixtures included,
  • easy detection of faults on each individual line,
  • high reliability of communications due to a small number of connections in the system,
  • the ability to turn off the water on the line requiring repair and retain the ability to use other lines at the same time (for example, during the repair of a shower, you can wash dishes, wash your face, etc.),
  • collector wiring connection lines are easily masked in boxes, niches, etc., providing an attractive appearance of the premises.

Collector wiring of water supply pipes in the apartment also has its drawbacks:

  • for its implementation, more pipes are required,
  • the installation of parallel connections is more complicated (in the event that you plan to do it not on your own, but with the involvement of specialists, the complexity directly affects the cost of services).

Collector wiring of water supply pipes in an apartment allows you to optimize the operation of each device included in its composition. Filters or pressure regulators can be easily installed on individual outlets in accordance with the characteristics of the water-consuming equipment and its requirements for operating conditions.

Assembly according to the collector scheme

The principle of organizing collector systems

Do-it-yourself collector wiring of the water supply in the apartment is carried out according to the following principle - the central branch does not have taps, but is connected to the collector, to which, in turn, the supply lines for each device are connected. When installing heating systems, collectors are installed in special cabinets (when implementing a scheme for houses with several floors, collectors are installed on each floor).

Hot and cold water supply systems are installed in the same way. In apartments, water supply collectors are conveniently installed for. The collector principle for supplying water or coolant is also called radiant, and it has its own characteristics for water supply and heating systems. These nuances deserve close attention.


Installation of collector water supply

The junction of the collector with the central pipe is equipped with a ball valve for the possibility of a general shutdown of the water supply. The valve is supplemented with a preliminary (coarse) filter, which traps large insoluble inclusions that can damage the rest of the equipment.

If you follow the flow of water, after the coarse filter there should be (counter), and after it - another filter that removes smaller (compared to the first) inclusions.

The next element of a well-designed water supply piping system in an apartment is a check valve that prevents the fluid from flowing back from the collector to the central pipe when the water supply pressure is reduced.

Note: It should be noted that the installation of the above equipment at the beginning of the pipeline is also necessary with a consistent layout of the plumbing pipes in the apartment.

Only after the above equipment is connected to the collector. Each outlet of the collector is supplied with its own tap to turn off the water supply of the branch.


When choosing and installing a manifold, one of the determining factors is number of water points. It must correspond to the number of outlets, and in order to be able to connect additional plumbing equipment in the future, collectors with a large number of outlets should be selected. Those of them that are not used in the system up to a certain point are supplied with stubs.

If the central branches of both cold and hot water supply enter the house or apartment, the installation of water supply wiring in a collector-type apartment is identical in both cases. If there is only central cold water supply, one of the outlets of the cold water collector directs the liquid to the water heater, from where the heated water enters a separate collector - for distributing hot water.