The struggle for energy efficiency in homes leads to complete tightness. When insulating rooms, people forget that the body needs fresh air for normal functioning. The stagnant air loses the oxygen content necessary for breathing. The consequence of the lack of movement of air masses is increased humidity, accumulation of harmful substances, therefore, high-quality ventilation of the room is a vital necessity, especially since you can equip it in a private house with your own hands.

How to start and important design points

To begin the creation of a normal circulation of air masses, it is necessary to begin with an assessment of the premises. The cubic capacity of living space is calculated, taking into account the need of a person who needs 10 m³ per hour for normal functioning. The system must supply air to each tenant of the house in any part of the living space. Depending on the design of the building, the communications used, the equipment, the type of ventilation is selected, which is able to provide residents with comfortable living conditions. There are three main types of movement of air masses in rooms according to the principle of operation:

1. Natural works on the principle of air movement under the influence of different temperature indicators. As is known from the course of physics, warm air currents are more discharged and rise upwards. Using this law, structural openings connected with the environment are provided in the upper part of the building. As a rule, the temperature outside the room is lower than inside, so warm air rises and is displaced by a cold stream from the building. It is generally accepted that the optimal operating indicator of such a system is the temperature outside in the range from 5 to 15 degrees. At lower temperatures in the premises, a draft is predictably created due to the intensity of heat transfer. In cases of high temperatures, the efficiency of the system is reduced because it is cooler inside the house;
2. Forced ventilation is carried out using mechanical devices that supply fresh air inside and remove stagnant, accumulated air masses outside. The inflow and outflow is carried out under the action of exhaust and spray equipment. Typically, such a system consists of fans, air valves, heaters, air conditioners, cleaning filters, silencers. For optimal functioning, a special communication network is created to ensure the movement of air flows - these are air channels, air intake grilles, diffusers, anemostats. The efficiency of the system is increased by the installation of control sensors, thermostats that connect or turn off fans according to the specified, calculated indicators;
3. A mixed system involves the addition of natural air exchange with exhaust equipment. These can be hoods in the kitchen or fans in the bathrooms, built-in or connected to natural ventilation communications. As a rule, such equipment is installed where the degree of air pollution is high and the inflow does not have time to displace pollution.

Ventilation problems are associated with the use of old building technologies for modern conditions. Most houses are built to outdated standards. At the same time, new materials, technologies and equipment are used. According to outdated SNiPs, air is supplied through gaps in windows and doors, but the installation of metal-plastic windows and doors of new designs reliably seals the room. Thus, residents are protected from drafts, sound comfort is increased, and energy saving is improved. Only the air stagnates, due to the lack of the possibility of fresh flow inflow. The result is expressed by an increase in humidity, oxygen starvation.

Know that this creates a favorable environment for the development of harmful microorganisms in the room. A fungus appears on the walls, rapidly conquering new territories. Fighting it is meaningless as long as greenhouse conditions are created for it in the form of a humid, warm atmosphere without drafts.

Another problem is the accumulation of harmful substances that enter the body through inhalation. They are distinguished by surrounding objects - furniture, walls, flooring, everyday substances for cleaning, cleaning surfaces. When the ventilation in the house with their own hands is done in good faith, the air circulates and almost all harmful substances are brought out, they do not have time to accumulate in dangerous quantities and enter the body.

Fresh supply air according to standards and regulations

It is ideal to equip your house outside the city, located in the open spaces of an area rich in fresh, clean air, with natural ventilation.

Did you know that there are certain norms for air exchange in the house, taking into account the specifics of a particular room, which must be taken into account when creating ventilation in a private house with your own hands.

It implies the replacement of the entire air mass, the value of which is given in the table, in 1 hour for rooms where people are constantly present. Particular attention is paid to special purpose rooms:

1. For kitchens with electric stoves, air exchange is required at least 60 m³ / h, and in the case of a gas stove 90 m³ / h;
2. For a bathroom and a bathroom, air exchange should exceed 25 m³ / h, if these rooms are combined, then the figure increases to 50 m³ / h.

A table has also been developed depending on the location of the ventilation opening in the room on the height of the building and floor. It shows what performance is needed and the required number of channels. These indicators will help create air exchange that provides the standard or exceeds.

WITH You should know that when designing ventilation, take into account the individual characteristics of a particular house. For example, if a wooden floor is based on logs, then the ventilation under the floor is taken into account in the calculation.

Proper selection and calculation of the parameters of supply channels

For the organization of communications, pipes of round diameter or rectangular blocks are used. The optimal pipe size is considered to be a diameter of 150 mm (0.016 dm³), at least 10 cm on each side. Such indicators guarantee the passage of a flow of at least 30 m³ / h when the channels are located at a height of at least 3 m. In order for the throughput to be greater, it is necessary to increase the cross section, length or number of air ducts.

All possible options are determined depending on the floor of the building being calculated using the regulatory documentation "Code of rules for residential multi-apartment buildings":

1. Table 9.1 allows you to determine how much air is required to be pumped into the room;
2. In the paragraph "Performance standards and natural ventilation channels" it is given how much air is required to be removed from the room.

The obtained values ​​are compared, the larger one is selected and the required air exchange is calculated.

For example, for a 4-room one-story house with three meter ceilings and a roof, a total area of ​​75 m², a kitchen equipped with a gas stove. The total cubic capacity required for inflow into the room is 225 m³ per hour. The available data on the rooms allow us to determine the amount of air that needs to be removed outside: kitchen - 90 m³ / h, bath and toilet - 50 m³ / h, total - 140 m³ / h. Therefore, the indicator of 225 m³ / h is taken as the basis and the calculation is carried out on it:

1. The height of the ventilation ducts for the house is 4 m;
2. The air renewal capacity for t=20 °C according to the table is 45.96 m³/h;
3. The number of channels is determined by dividing 225/45.96=4.9.

That is, for the required house, 5 ventilation ducts are required without taking into account all the individual features of the house. To obtain specific values, it is necessary to involve specialists in the design of ventilation of a private house.

Additional equipment that improves living conditions

Natural ventilation is economical, easy to operate, easy to design and construct. But it is unable to cope with all the challenges presented by modern housing challenges. Called for help:

1. Fans built into the air ducts effectively fight against unpleasant odors, excessive humidity in the toilet and bath. Inexpensive design, easy to install and easy to use helps to quickly increase airflow as needed;
2. The hood, located above the stove, protects the kitchen from moisture, removes excess odors from the room and helps maintain normal temperature conditions, quickly removing hot air from the room.

You should know the permissible dimensions for the location of the hood above the stove - 0.75 m when using a gas hob; 0.65 m above electric.

Increased attention is paid when using a fireplace or stove. In this case, do-it-yourself ventilation in a private house is designed taking into account the need to create conditions for the complete combustion of the fuel used to operate the equipment, and all combustion products must also be removed. Careful study of the design guarantees the elimination of risks - fire, suffocation. Often there are projects in which supply ventilation is used from the bottom of the stove or fireplace. This solution provides the fire source with a constant supply of oxygen, normal thrust.

High-quality ventilation in a private house is necessary, it can be designed with your own hands. It is important to take into account the features of the structure, the characteristics of the equipment used and the materials in the premises.

Video about ventilation of a private house

Natural ventilation channels

For effective ventilation, Each room in the house must have two ventilation devices: one is for air supply, the other is for removing air from the room.

Every room in a house or apartment equipped with a supply and exhaust device for natural ventilation according to one of three options:

1. Supply valve in a window or outside wall for air flow. overflow hole to an adjacent room with an exhaust duct for air removal (hole in a door or internal wall, partition).
2. For air flow overflow hole from an adjacent room with a supply valve, and exhaust channel
3. Inlet valve for inflow, And exhaust channel ventilation to remove air.

Check whether in the house or apartment where you currently live, whether all rooms have supply and exhaust ventilation devices?!

In which rooms it is necessary to make exhaust ventilation ducts

Exhaust ducts for natural ventilation must be provided from the following premises of the house:

• Sanitary facilities - bathroom, toilet, laundry.
• Kitchens.
• Dressing room, pantry - if the doors of the premises open into the living room. If the doors open into the corridor (hall, kitchen), then one of two things can be done: arrange an exhaust duct from the premises or install an inlet valve in a wall or window.
• The boiler room must have both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.
• From rooms separated from rooms with a ventilation duct by more than two doors.
• On the floor above the first, in the presence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor - ventilation channels are made from the premises indicated above, or (and) from the corridor, hall.
• On the floor above the first, in the absence of entrance doors from the stairs to the floor, each room on the floor is equipped with both a ventilation duct and a supply valve.

In other areas of the house that do not have exhaust ducts for natural ventilation, be sure to install an inlet valve in a window or in a wall and an overflow hole in an adjacent room.

In addition, natural ventilation exhaust ducts are arranged for ventilation:

• Sewer pipe riser.

Building rules (clause 6.5.8 of SP 60.13330.2016) require in residential buildings for premises that house gas equipment (gas boilers, water heaters, cookers, etc.), to provide mechanical forced exhaust ventilation and natural or mechanical supply ventilation.

Location and dimensions of ventilation ducts

The minimum side dimension of the natural ventilation duct is 10 cm., and the minimum cross-sectional area is 0.016 m 2., which approximately corresponds to the diameter of a standard ventilation duct pipe - 150 mm.

The minimum size channel will provide air exhaust in the amount of 30 m 3 / hour with a vertical pipe length of more than 3 m. To increase the performance of the hood, increase the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel or the length of the channel. Channels less than 2 m. do not provide the necessary intensity of natural ventilation.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct on the floor is usually set by design considerations - the number and height of the upper floors located above, the height of the attic, the length of the pipe above the roof. On the floor, the length of all channels must be the same. This is done so that the traction force in each channel on the floor is approximately the same.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the channels on the floor are often made the same, but for structural reasons it is more convenient. The performance of the ventilation channel in a particular room of the floor is adjusted by choosing the size of the ventilation grille.

Ventilation channels from the premises of the house on different floors are placed side by side, combining them into a block of ventilation channels.

For constructive reasons, they try to lay several ventilation ducts from the premises of the same floor side by side, in one place they create a block of ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts in stone houses is usually placed inside the load-bearing inner wall of the house or attached to the wall.

The block is laid out from masonry materials, for example, bricks. In brickwork, it is convenient to make channels with a cross section that is a multiple of the size of the brick, taking into account the thickness of the seams - 140x140 mm. (1/2 x 1/2 bricks, 196 cm 2) or 140x270 mm. (1/2 x 1 brick, 378 cm 2)

Expanded clay concrete ventilation block, two-channel 390x190x188 mm. Flow area of ​​one channel 168 cm 2
Concrete blocks for laying ventilation ducts in a private house. Block height 33 cm., width 25 cm., wall thickness 4 cm. Flow area of ​​one channel 12x17 cm. (204 cm 2)

They produce hollow concrete blocks specially designed for laying ventilation ducts.

A block of ventilation ducts made of masonry materials must necessarily be supported by a foundation or reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, for example, in wooden or frame houses, a block of ventilation ducts is assembled from plastic or galvanized steel pipes. A block of pipes is closed with a box.

How to merge multiple channels into one channel

In a private house, the number of channels is small, so there is no need to combine air flows from several channels (rooms or floors) into one, as is often done in apartment buildings. Each channel of natural ventilation in a private house should begin indoors and end at the head on the roof. Any combination of two or more channels impairs ventilation performance.

In some cases, however, there is a need to combine several channels, combine them into one common channel of natural ventilation.

Read:

Ventilation channel performance

Performance of a single exhaust ventilation duct with a section of 12x17 cm.(204 cm 2) from concrete blocks, depending on the height of the channel and the temperature in the room:

Productivity of channels of natural ventilation with a section of 12 x 17 cm.(204 cm 2) depending on the height of the duct and the temperature in the room (at an outdoor temperature of 12 about C)

To determine performance for intermediate values ​​of channel height, plot the dependence on the axes: channel height and performance.

Similar tables can be found for ventilation ducts that are made of other materials.

However, for ventilation ducts of the same section (204 cm 2), but made of other materials, the performance will differ slightly from that indicated in the table.

For a channel of a different section, the performance value from the table can be proportionally increased or decreased.

To increase the performance of a ventilation duct of the same height, it is necessary proportionately increase the cross-sectional area of ​​the channel. For this, for example, a concrete block with a larger hole is selected, or two or three channels of the above size are used to ventilate one room.

Calculation of natural ventilation of a private house

The building regulations specify the minimum required capacity of natural ventilation ducts. Usually people feel better when more fresh air is supplied to the room than specified in the norms. The performance of a natural ventilation duct is highly dependent on atmospheric and other variable factors (air temperature inside and outside, wind pressure and direction, resistance to air flow into the room). All this suggests that for a private house, it makes no sense to scrupulously accurately perform the calculation. I recommend rounding the calculation results in the direction of greater productivity of natural ventilation channels. During operation, if necessary, the bandwidth of the channel can be easily reduced.

The calculation of natural ventilation is carried out in order to determine the size of the ventilation ducts based on the volume of air removed.

When determining the volume of air removed through natural ventilation channels, it is taken into account that air enters rooms with supply valves from the street, then this air flows into rooms with exhaust ducts, and is removed through the channels again to the street.

The calculation is carried out for each floor houses in the following order:

1. Guided by the standards (see), determine the amount of the minimum volume of air that must come from outside for ventilation all rooms with supply valves - Q p, m 3 / hour.
2. According to the standards, the sum of the minimum volume of air that must be go outside for ventilation all rooms equipped with an exhaust ventilation duct - Q in, m 3 / hour.
3. Compare the calculated minimum values ​​​​of air inflow from the street (Q p, m 3 / hour) and leaving for the street (Q in, m 3 / hour). Usually one of the values ​​is greater than the other. The larger of the two values ​​is taken as the minimum design capacity of all exhaust ventilation ducts on the floor- Q p, m 3 / hour.
4. Based on the vertical dimensions of the house, the height of the natural ventilation channel on the floor is assigned.
5. Knowing the height of the ventilation duct, and the total estimated minimum performance of all ducts on the floor (Q p, m 3 / hour), according to the table (see above), the total number of standard channels from concrete blocks is selected. The total performance of the selected number of standard channels must not be less than Q p, m 3 / hour.
6. The selected number of standard channels is distributed between the premises of the house, which must be equipped with exhaust ventilation ducts. When distributing, the need to ensure standard air exchange in each individual room with a ventilation duct is taken into account.

An example of calculating the natural ventilation of a private house

For example, let's calculate natural ventilation in a one-story house with a total floor area of ​​120 m 2. The house has five living rooms with a total area of ​​90 m 2, kitchen, bathroom and toilet, as well as a dressing room (pantry) with an area of ​​4.5 m 2. Room height - 3 m. The house is made with natural ventilation of the underground space through the ventilation duct. The height of the ventilated space under the floor 0.3 m. We use concrete blocks for the installation of ventilation ducts - see above.

Fan at the entrance to the natural ventilation duct

Continuation: for the next

Ventilation systems are varied in design, so choosing the right option for a private house is quite difficult. You need to understand the many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country cottage is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it out. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, from harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage settlements, the purity of the air masses is doubtful. All the same, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring from power plants and from car exhaust pipes. An ordinary gas stove clogs the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of decontamination. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows due to nets can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter, and in summer it brings a tiring heat. Well-made ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors, does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system device

Ventilating complexes can solve such problems only if they are properly organized according to a special methodology. For the organization of mines, air ducts made of plastic are widely used. Thanks to the universal connections, you can assemble everything with your own hands. Metal structures are more reliable, but it is much more difficult to assemble an air duct from them. Such work is already performed mainly by masters.

Grids are used to distribute air; sometimes more than 10 grills can fall on 1 house. They are divided into supply and exhaust devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other constituent elements) must block the opening for the passage of air by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are able to heat the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than the use of even the best heating devices for warming up the air that has already arrived. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban dwellings, however, proximity to a federal highway or railway requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should cope only with the release of air from dust.

Regardless of the intricacies of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, there is only a supply valve. Hoods for the boiler, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of an autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a complete ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from the heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is the basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out in the first place, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the need in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational management of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in a window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well in warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

That external ventilation, which can be seen in public and industrial buildings, is redundant for a private dwelling. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in a large occupied area. You will need to do the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems working for inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single housing equipped with noise insulation.

Personal inflow systems work only for one room. Most of these devices are low power, do not create strong noise. The cost of purchasing them is low. There is no need to use air ducts and involve specialists. It is allowed to equip such systems with recuperative units, however, their efficiency is ensured only at a positive air temperature.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes, and not build communications from drywall. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are brought out above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the place of installation. It is forbidden to use ventilation combined with a chimney; the supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve economic problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. It is impossible to lay such channels in load-bearing walls. It is also impractical to pull them in the outer walls, where it will lead to the continuous formation of condensate. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters, heating boilers or stoves for kitchens are installed.

Burning natural gas inevitably reduces the oxygen concentration in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes more and more clogged with soot, the air in the room is rapidly filled with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only by subjective inconveniences: there is a threat to the health and even life of people. Since in private houses, with the exception of large cottages, boilers more powerful than 30 kW are not installed, it is from this level that one should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created with a channel marking, the stock of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. It is necessary to lay them in the openings with a slight slope to the street. To cover empty areas, use mounting foam. The part of the foam that has gone beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It will not be possible to exclude clogging with dust in this scheme; the solution to the problem is the use of gratings with filters.

Another grate is mounted on the outlet of the pipe to the street so that small animals and debris do not get inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent cold air from affecting the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it is able to compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly reduce the service life of the product. The natural format of ventilation of boiler rooms, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed air handling units contain filters, fans and heaters. In boiler rooms, they provide a full-fledged microclimate. Given the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating facilities. In boiler rooms, ducted or non-ducted air supply systems can be used. In the first case, its streams are collected together, and then discharged outward naturally or forcibly.

To move the air that is created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are mounted easily and simply. The necessary parts are always supplied in the kit. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and mass of air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Requirements for standards and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures should be focused on providing and maintaining a microclimate that meets the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the 2002 sanitary rules. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create a total noise greater than 110 dB, and an impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the norms in force in Russia, it is necessary to forcibly set the air in motion if the meteorological characteristics of the terrain do not provide the required parameters for its movement. It may also be due to the need to clean the incoming air masses. Without fail, mechanical ventilation is created in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where artificial encouragement is indispensable is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is also necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out up to the MPC for a particular settlement or below. The calculation of all systems should be done so that the temperature in the room does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within the normalized limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from outside must be at least 1 m above the stable snow cover and 2 m above the ground. If the territory can be prone to sandstorms, the rise should be made already by 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals, and the like is determined individually, according to the terms of reference.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls should be sealed through partitions using fireproof materials. It is forbidden to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, with electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The ban also includes the approach of all these communications to the pipes and their simple intersection. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then the instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made the same for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fixing air-distributing devices to air ducts or to the capital structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and accessories

The arrangement of ventilation in houses from SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightened to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is houses, the height of which is two or more floors. Even if a house of such panels is built according to the technology of a ventilated facade, an additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its inflow without violating the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mounted mainly immediately in the frames of houses. Such structures are outwardly invisible and do not worsen the appearance of buildings. To connect the supply valves with the frame and floors, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is categorically unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase the noise and weaken the thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as the basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide cleaning and heating of air simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that without the help of professionals, it can be quite difficult to make such highways. Only very prepared and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is forced, an increased pressure is formed, which ensures the exit (displacement) of the exhausted part of the atmosphere to the street.

In many frame buildings, they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with low energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq.m.) it is required to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe dwelling is less or more, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to the humidity sensors installed in each of the rooms. Then the optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring devices is not recommended because their cost is prohibitively high. Only professionals calculate the power of fans, because no one will be able to do it right without special training.

For the formation of ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air makes less noise when moving through them. Importantly, such structures can be mounted relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at an arbitrary angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. And this means not only the minimum “loudness”, but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But it must be borne in mind that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said here without studying a specific sample. It is only after testing in the laboratory that it becomes clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to focus on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a ventilation pipe layout, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating the cross sections by the throughput level.

Chimneys, or rather, forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks to be solved are nevertheless quite close. The weakness of traction in a private house is bad not only by the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only by soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, turns into excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that the unstable operation of the hood threatens with a fire. If soot accumulates, one day it may flare up so that even a heat-resistant grade of brick will not withstand. By changing the usual wooden windows with slots to plastic ones, putting steel doors, thereby inevitably weakening the draft. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air inflow channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the drop-out power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

Wind vanes and wind vanes can be used to deal with the effects of wind or a change in the direction of air movement. Such elements, turning in the direction of flow, block the pipe head and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is enhanced traction without power consumption. Most often, weather vanes are made of stainless steel grades, the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, the wind vanes are equipped with closed thrust bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance for the entire period of operation. If the product complies with standard standards, the case does not collect condensate and soot. The only thing that is needed from the owners is to fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weathercock fans work poorly and are unstable if the wind is very strong.

Rotary turbines are an alternative. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric flows. But torsion occurs in one direction, no matter which way the wind is blowing. The ball, assembled according to a special system of "petals", prevents clogging of the pipe with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The fan smoke exhauster does not depend on weather. It is fundamentally different from the fireplace ventilation device, designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor, designed to be powered by a conventional home electrical network. It is necessary to use a smoke exhaust fan if you want to create increased draft in the smoke channel for a small fireplace. High-quality designs provide normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney channel is heated up to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

It is possible to proceed with the installation of ventilation communications in a private house only after a scheme has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of indoor space is required to submit 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, one should not forget about the "human" norms - 30 cubic meters each. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and the speed of air movement. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters must be served there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth compiling a technical task and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As in other technical systems, one should strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to think about things like:

the ability to repair and configure everything with your own hands;

availability of redundant nodes;

ease of management;

reliability in a variety of conditions;

harmonious integration of the ventilation complex into the interior;

economy during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must look up. Each fastener is tightened to the stop so that the bolts can no longer be turned more strongly. It is possible to put individual parts of communications on the fasteners reserved for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the mass of air ducts. The load from them should not be delivered to the devices.

Without fail, all fasteners are equipped with means to restrain the spread of vibration. Radial fans are supposed to be placed on rigid supports and attached with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be pulled evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check if the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for the passage of air are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of not more than 70 mm. It is also mandatory to minimize the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. The sequence of installation work in any case is as follows:

marking positions for the use of fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and obtaining components;

formation of single sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with fixing in accordance with plans and schemes that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often covered from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private house is determined by such considerations as:

building materials of the building and its ceilings;

total area;

intensity of use of the dwelling;

the number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climatic regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

features of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of applying certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a safe sanitary internal environment;

minimization of fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, on the environment.

In private homes, both forced and natural systems can be used. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the dwelling is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with micro-ventilation devices. But much more often hoods are used that provide condensate drainage. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust type of ventilation is recommended for ventilation of built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the inflow, additional functions of which are heating, filtering and disinfecting the incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps to exclude hypothermia of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves the installation of:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to put some block, it is simply skipped. But the general order does not need to be changed. Air conditioning units are placed last, just in front of the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, immediately before they are connected; be sure to ground them.

When the ventilation systems are divided into sections, the networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-start tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

Drilling inputs and outputs is supposed to be with a small slope in the direction of the street. This is important for the full outflow of condensate. Hole diameter - at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the interval from the window sill to the heating radiator. In the wall, you need to ditch the passage, the cross section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. A pipe enters the hole. Then you need to fix the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more frequently.

Means that activate the air extraction in a private house are placed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small, it is possible to feed them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. It is possible to exclude mixing, mutual overlapping of flows rushing from toilets and bathtubs due to a non-return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed on:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, it is necessary to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the high-quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. The experience of using different versions led to the conclusion that the case made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Outlet through the wall is not the only way to ensure air inflow, there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from it below, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed piece of material is kept in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the inner seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is thrown into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of execution, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts can occur, the outer opening will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensely heat the air. Valves are more perfect in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be pierced with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessment of the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled place is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the shortcomings;

heating, filtering, drying and humidifying the air are possible only with the use of electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, it is the distributed air duct system that is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves can make up for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the dwelling or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air jets will need to overcome the smallest possible distance.

The air duct box can be made not only in steel and plastic; good results in some cases gives corrugated aluminum. To make the intersections of the elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (they are produced in a lot) and insulating tape. Pipes are fixed to the ceiling with the help of suspensions, carefully choosing their design. Mounting on the walls is carried out using special clamps. To contain noise and vibrations, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test, you need to check:

lack of vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct distribution of air in accordance with the planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the usefulness of the release of baths and toilets from moisture, from bad and strong odors;

lack of flaws in all fasteners and joints;

lack of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniformity of temperature adjustment during the operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide a full passage of air. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in a frame dwelling with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at the following:

the tree is easily saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to pass air will not allow you to establish its correct change anyway;

natural circulation does not allow warm air;

carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture contained in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually laid immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in the basements, and then in other parts of the dwelling. In the basements, vents are being prepared, and the supply channel is mounted at the basement level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as well as the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is required to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses differs markedly from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, it is imperative to create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is provided by a fan placed close to the window. But to dump the exhaust air mass, it is placed in the channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards with a size of 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which coincides in diameter with the ventilation passage. If the area of ​​the room is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with a solution. Only then will the infiltration of smoke, fumes, soot and soot into the serviced space be excluded. All rooms where there is no natural circulation, in a brick house, it is three times more important to provide artificial air supply. It will also have to be mechanically removed. It is unacceptable to have cracks and extraneous holes, cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied.

Frame buildings made of timber, operated only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the heat exchanger should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, the extra heating of outdoor air can be canceled without intrusion into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option is distinguished by enhanced noise protection, and therefore it is ideal for private housing.

Many projects of frame houses are initially supplemented with special openings, which were originally designed to carry out the required communications. This opportunity should not be denied. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaust are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel

not subject to the destructive action of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal pipelines, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to accommodate the inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near the air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is brought as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by the addition of a domestic fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to eliminate the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring the normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. An additional improvement is often central air conditioning. However, its use is hampered by the fact that very thick pipes will have to be drawn.

They take up a lot of space, are not always practical and comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not available to all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating of any premises. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, the support of normal air circulation in the sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

For your information: the usual technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. It is necessary to immediately prepare for this and actively extinguish extraneous sounds. At the same time, the ventilation power of problematic premises should not be reduced - the air in them should change 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the use of a supply and exhaust natural configuration and a heat exchanger to be the best solution to the problem.

The main ventilation unit in the house, both with a full-fledged second floor and with an attic, must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized recuperators. Such devices are mounted in separate rooms, while there is no need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Proper air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and releasing holes on opposite walls. But their area should be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is more correct to replace the upper grille with a pipe that rises above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewerage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made from the same materials as the waste riser. For their implementation, the channel that is provided for by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially attend to such a moment, a horizontal outlet to the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of smells by the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing material or bitumen, and the outer ones are covered with clay by 350 mm or a little more.

There are also subtleties in the arrangement of ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often they make central channels from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Warming of passages helps to exclude the occurrence of condensate. Alternatives to such measures are laying out a brick airway or sleeving with a carefully constructed plastic closure. Aerated concrete premises are ventilated at least 5 times per hour.

Air ducts can be made of galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The mains used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. At the same time, high-quality insulation of their conclusions to the roof is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made of pipes 150 mm.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside the walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions separating internal walls are used to accommodate drainage and underwater channels. The best solution is sleeved with a plastic part with holes cut to the required size.

Arrangement of air circulation of built-in premises

But just supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in an aerated concrete structure, this is equally true. For if the freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation should also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and the crate are not closed. If this approach does not suit you, you need to use a casing with gaps through which the gas will move freely and unrestricted.

Ondulin and slate are supposed to be laid without the use of films that restrain the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through the metal tile well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in gables. With tight junctions and sewing, as well as in the manufacture of stone gables, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, should be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they put standard gratings (one with adjustment, and the other with holes turned down). Be sure to cover the grilles with mosquito nets so that insects are guaranteed not to get inside. This approach is not required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air inlet is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output, a hole is prepared near the ridge itself. When using a flexible roof, a turtle-shaped valve or a ridge with a ventilation function is recommended.

It is widely believed that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of non-professional builders or designers. They launch such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilation systems must be distinguished by increased strength, because otherwise they will not endure the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install inseparable spotlights under the cornices. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum so that there is no corrosion). Supply components should be installed in the cleanest place. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. The installation of a heat exchanger is very useful.

When the organization of the basement (basement) is provided for in the project of a private house, it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with holes for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

the depth of laying the foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should fall on 2-3 m of the wall. A few more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. With a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes are laid there, working for the inflow. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the dwelling, ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything right when pouring a concrete base.

In multi-apartment buildings, the presence of a ventilation system with natural induction of air circulation is a necessary condition, without which a residential facility will not be put into operation.

However, in private construction, the organization of air exchange is often remembered only with the appearance of unpleasant odors and fungal mold on the walls. A well-designed ventilation scheme in a private house will help solve this problem.

In this material we will talk about the features of natural and forced ventilation, the principles of its operation. And also about how to properly draft an air exchange system in a private house.

The use in the construction of modern materials and various external enclosing structures of a cottage / house makes it difficult for natural air exchange between rooms and the street, and sometimes even blocks it. Thanks to the internal and mounted plastic windows, the buildings become airtight.

Such measures contribute to the conservation of heat and energy savings, but greatly impede the flow of fresh air. To correct this typical situation, it is necessary to organize an effective air circulation system.

In the building, ventilation is needed so that fresh air regularly enters the bathroom, bedroom, living room and kitchen not through open windows and doors, but through special devices - anemostats and air diffusers.

According to generally accepted sanitary and hygienic standards, a properly functioning ventilation system is an indispensable element of the engineering equipment of all residential facilities.

A constant flow of air in the house will provide comfortable conditions for long-term residence of people and the maintenance of plants, as well as for the full functioning of all technical systems.

Ventilation is also necessary to maintain optimal environmental parameters for the safe operation of various building structures, wooden furniture and interior items.

The circulation of air flows must be organized not only in living rooms, but also in utility rooms - bathrooms and bathrooms, in the kitchen, in the boiler room, etc.

A high-quality ventilation system contributes to the rapid removal of excess moisture and heat. Together with the exhaust air, harmful microorganisms, accumulated dirt and dust are simultaneously removed from the premises.

That is why it is important to think over all the details of the engineering network even at the design stage of a residential building: to make it more powerful than in other rooms, to choose the right functional elements of the ventilation system in order to ensure the optimal level of oxygen in the interior.

Methods for organizing air exchange in the house

There are different ways to ensure air exchange in a residential building - from periodically opening doors and windows for a short time to installing multifunctional systems for preparing and delivering clean air to each room.

From the point of view of ventilation, a healthy and comfortable atmosphere in the house is formed not only due to the composition of the air. An important role is played by its temperature, uniformity of distribution and mobility.

The influx of cool air can create a powerful convection current, which a person will perceive as an unpleasant draft. As a result, even at normal temperatures in the room it will be uncomfortable.

In old brick buildings, ventilation and airing was provided by special vents left during the construction of a residential facility.

The ventilation system in the kitchen of the cottage made of wooden beams also seemed as simple as possible. Leaky doorways and window blocks contributed to the continuous circulation of air currents in the house.

All these methods are still used today in small one-story buildings. There is enough natural air ventilation there. But if we talk about large and spacious private houses, then you can’t do without additionally installed central air conditioners and fans.

Types of ventilation systems

According to the basic requirements of hygienic and sanitary standards, the ventilation performance of any type should be:

• 3 m 3 per hour per 1 square meter for living rooms;
• 25 m 3 for separate sanitary facilities;
• 50 m 3 for sanitary facilities.

The amount of fresh air that needs to be supplied to different rooms also depends on a number of other factors - the number of people, the nature and frequency of the work performed, the concentration of harmful substances.

In residential premises, 35 m 3 of air is introduced per adult, for children under the age of 10 they take a norm of 15-20 m 3 per hour, for children a little older - 25 m 3.

The designed ventilation scheme in compliance with these parameters will guarantee a regular stable supply of fresh air and comfortable living in a private house.

There are three types of air exchange systems:

• natural- with a natural inducement of the circulation of air currents;
• mechanical- with forced intake and exhaust air;
• combined- with partial use of mechanical exhaust and natural intake of fresh air masses.

It is necessary to organize a continuous automatic supply of clean air in the house. Only the intensity of inflow and removal can change.

But on the other hand, the forced mechanisms involved greatly simplify the ventilation of residential and auxiliary premises.

And read about how to correctly calculate the ventilation system for the house.

Natural ventilation in the house

To organize natural air exchange, the concept of vertical ventilation ducts is used. One end is mounted indoors, and the other is brought out slightly above the roof of the building.

Since the air temperature in the house usually differs from the street temperature, warm streams gradually rise through the exhaust duct. A fresh portion enters the rooms from the outside through window and door blocks.

Among the main advantages of such a system are simplicity and minimal costs for arrangement, saturation of rooms with natural air, and independence from electricity.

But there are also significant downsides. So, natural ventilation in a private building will work only until the air temperature in the street exceeds 12 degrees Celsius. At high rates, the hood will not be able to fully work.

At first glance, this situation seems ideal for winter, but there is also a drawback that simply cannot be ignored. With a significant temperature difference between outdoor and indoor air, the system will start to work faster. All the heat will literally fly out freely into the chimney.

Therefore, residents of cottages and private houses spend more energy on heating than normal climatic conditions require.

To organize a ventilation system of this type, separate ducts are laid from each utility room to a common shaft. From the kitchen, you need to lay two channels - one from the exhaust grille under the ceiling, and the other from the kitchen hood.

And it is also necessary to pay special attention to all rooms that are completely / partially located below ground level in the house. They accumulate toxic radon. To reduce the amount of dangerous gas, a powerful exhaust duct should be equipped.

In addition, you need to take care of reliable waterproofing of the basement. After all, even the most efficient supply and exhaust system will not cope with its tasks if it is always damp in the basement of a private house or cottage.

How can efficiency be improved?

There are several ways to help improve the performance of a naturally aspirated air exchange system:

• install a special valve at the inlet to the channel;
• install grilles with valves on the inflow and outflow channels;
• use deflector.

Equipped with automatic valve reacts even to a slight change in air humidity. It is mounted at the entrance to the duct inside the building. When the humidity rises in the room, the automatic relay is activated and the internal valve opens the channel more.

In the event of a decrease in performance, the device closes the entrance. The sensing element is a sensor that picks up signals from the environment. It is installed outside the house.

In winter, the valve must be additionally covered. This will minimize the ingress of cold air into the residential building. However, the installation of such a device will not cover all the shortcomings of natural ventilation.

Exhaust ventilation ducts are equipped in the main internal walls of the building. It is advisable to combine air ducts into small groups so that the passage through the roof is organized in one pipe

Another effective method is the installation of grilles with valves on the channels for the inflow and removal of air masses. They can only be controlled manually. The position of the valve must be adjusted at least once a season, when the outside temperature changes.

The wind can also increase the draft in the vertical exhaust ducts. To use natural force, a deflector is put on the upper part of the pipe - a special device that protects the air duct from debris and precipitation, and also increases traction.

The use of a deflector allows you to increase the performance of the chimney / ventilation duct by 20%

The deflector cuts one air stream into two or even more at different speeds. It creates a vacuum, which in turn increases the pressure drop in the pipe. As a result, the air duct draws out the exhaust air better.

Features of forced air exchange

If natural ventilation does not provide a full-fledged air renewal, a powerful supply and exhaust system is installed in a private house.

It helps to balance the air currents that circulate between rooms and the outside environment continuously. Such ventilation guarantees a stable supply of purified fresh air and the removal of polluted air to the outside.

Description of mechanical ventilation option

Modern multifunctional supply and exhaust ventilation units make the most of the energy of the supplied air flows and convert it into heat.

Such systems produce deep cleaning of the supply air, completely filtering from dust, various allergens, bacteria and other harmful microorganisms.

Additional processing is created using filtration equipment, highly efficient noise absorbers, ionization and moisturizing devices, sometimes flavoring devices are used.

The air flows that have been processed are distributed throughout the house through special ventilation ducts. Prepared clean air enters the bedroom and children's room, study, living room, kitchen and bathrooms, auxiliary rooms, and is removed from there by the exhaust system

The functional elements of the system with forced air exchange are filters and recuperators, fans, hoods, control devices and, directly, the ventilation unit.

The built-in electronics makes it possible to selectively set the optimal user operating modes of the system in terms of temperature and humidity, and in time. Remote controls and smart controllers greatly simplify operation.

Mechanical ventilation helps prevent the formation of unpleasant odors in the kitchen, prevents the appearance of dampness and the spread of multi-colored mold, solves the problem of constant humidity in the bathroom and condensation on the surface of the heated floor, double-glazed windows, door blocks.

Powerful units with integrated filters, special noise absorbers and heaters take up a lot of space. To arrange them, you need to free up space in the attic or in the basement of a private house

Modern multifunctional forced ventilation systems are often combined with intelligent control and monitoring systems. Such measures optimize the operation of the equipment of all installed engineering systems in the house, allow you to organize user-friendly remote control of equipment via the Internet.

Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery

In schemes with heat recovery, a fixed supply and exhaust unit is responsible for the air exchange in the building. Air from the environment enters the system, after which it is cleaned from dust and contaminants by a filter and is sent to the heat exchanger for the main heating.

Up to the required temperature, the air masses are heated in an electric / and distributed throughout the house through durable ventilation ducts made of galvanized steel.

A heat recovery system will ensure high air quality in your home all year round. At low speeds of working fans, stationary air handling units operate almost silently.

Automation makes it possible to flexibly control the operation of the equipment: regulate the air supply, set a comfortable temperature, change the speed of air flows.

Recuperation is the rational use of the thermal energy of the exhaust air for the subsequent heating of the supply air. This allows you to reduce up to 85% of heat costs for heating the air flow from the external environment in winter

Maintenance of such an installation consists of regular filter changes. It is recommended to replace new elements for air purification from dust once a quarter.

System without heat recovery

To organize functional supply and exhaust ventilation without an air heat exchanger, several exhaust systems and a central supply unit are used at once. Outdoor air is heated or cooled, then it is cleaned in a filter, after which it is distributed through a network of channels to living rooms.

Removal of spent heavy air masses is carried out by hoods in the premises for economic and technical purposes. Such systems are made partly natural and partly forced. They function due to natural draft and due to duct fans.

Supply and exhaust circuits without heat recovery provide heating and purification of the air entering the house, but consume a large amount of energy for the constant processing of air flows.

Combined system type

Combined ventilation is implemented mainly in the form of a scheme with natural inflow and mechanical, that is, forced, exhaust of waste masses.

Fresh air enters the rooms through the valves due to the rarefaction created by the exhaust fans. In this case, the preliminary heating of the supply air masses is not performed. But this is not a problem if you install a correctly selected heating element under the valve - an open radiator.

Mechanical exhaust in a private house is performed by fans, usually ducted. There may be several, but sometimes one is enough.

To ensure efficient circulation of air currents, exhaust fans must operate without interruption. In order to save energy resources, speed controllers with automatic / manual control are connected to the system.

The flow of air flows into the house is organized in a natural way. To do this, use wall or special window inlet valves. The design of such devices does not provide for the presence of moving parts.

Experts characterize combined ventilation as functional, relatively inexpensive and easy to operate. For the location of related equipment does not require a lot of space. In addition, all functional elements require minimal maintenance.

Among the disadvantages of the combined type of system, it is worth noting the lack of filtration and heating of the supply air, as well as the minimum air exchange rates.

Rules for drafting ventilation

The full operation of the ventilation system directly depends on the exact calculation of technical parameters and a well-designed project for the circulation of air flows in the house.

The development of a scheme for placing equipment and piping makes it possible to lay channels for extracting stale air into the project. In addition, it will be convenient to adjust the height of the ceilings in the rooms, taking into account the additional space for laying outgoing pipes.

The calculation of ventilation and aspiration must be carried out at the stage of architectural planning of a residential facility

If, however, installation of ventilation is carried out during the redevelopment / reconstruction of the building, it is necessary to specially ditch the walls under the ventilation ducts or install massive attached shafts that do not look at all aesthetically pleasing.

It is at the stage of engineering design of the air exchange system that the basic technical solutions are determined:

• method of distribution of air flows in the house;
• type of ventilation and exhaust shafts;
• availability of filtration equipment.

However, when calculating the ventilation system, infiltration is not taken into account, since the contribution to the circulation of air flows is negligible.

Some building materials and building envelopes can pass air without special devices. This process is called active natural infiltration, which must be taken into account when developing a home heating scheme.

There are many factors that affect the quality of air in residential and utility rooms. When developing a ventilation project, in addition to the design features of a private building, various generally accepted standards and objective indicators are taken into account. Also an important role in this process is played by the personal preferences of the owner of the house and the available budget.

The design of ventilation systems is carried out according to the following plan:

1. At the initial stage, a technical task is drawn up.
2. The second step is the selection of the optimal air exchange concept in a private house.
3. The next stage is the development of a scheme with the calculation of the level created by ventilation, noise, the calculation of the cross section and the selection of air ducts with the required parameters.
4. The next step is to prepare the drawing for customer approval.
5. The last stage is the final design and delivery of the finished ventilation scheme.

It is necessary to exclude situations when, for repair work or periodic inspection of equipment, it is necessary to dismantle parts of building structures or decorative finishes. Therefore, filters, heaters, fans and other system components are best placed in a special technical room.

This will also solve the problem of organizing effective noise isolation of an operating ventilation unit.

If you do not follow the templates, but develop an individual concept for arranging ventilation for a specific construction site, you can ensure a stable supply of clean air to all interior spaces and exhaust of polluted air.

When developing a ventilation scheme, you need to focus on some technical features:

• volumes of exhaust and supply air masses must be balanced;
• fresh and clean air is supplied only to the living rooms, and the exhaust air is removed from the utility rooms;
• it is not allowed to combine the hood from the kitchen and the bathroom into one ventilation duct;
• the speed of the air flow in the exhaust pipes and main air ducts should not exceed 6 m/s. At the exit from the grate, the maximum indicator is 3 m / s;
• ventilation shafts that run along the street must be insulated with insulating materials at least 5 cm thick.

The correct approach to the device for the circulation of air masses will help create a favorable and comfortable microclimate in the house.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video explains why ventilation is needed in every private house and why mixing of supply and exhaust air flows should not be allowed:

This video clearly shows how to properly organize the inflow and evacuation of air with a natural ventilation scheme in a country house:

In spacious country houses it is better to entrust professionals. After all, the installed system should not only work, but also cope with planned tasks.

Properly equipped ventilation will solve the problems of stagnant air and the unpleasant feeling of mustiness in a private house.

Modern equipment speeds up and facilitates the cooking process, and makes it much more comfortable. The hood in a private house and city apartment has long been an important element of the technical equipment of the kitchen: it protects the entire home from food odors, and the kitchen itself from grease and soot deposited on the walls, ceiling and furniture. The installation of this device is not particularly difficult even for a beginner, and even an experienced owner, who is used to equipping a private house with his own hands, can do it at all.

In order for the hood in the kitchen in a private house to cope with the load and work efficiently, it is important to consider not only the size and appearance of the device, but also its technical capabilities. Therefore, carefully read the parameters that will be useful when choosing a particular model.

The hood in a modern kitchen can be a highlight of the interior

1. Extraction performance - the volume of air cleaned per hour. It is calculated simply: the volume of the kitchen (area by height) is multiplied by 12 (air exchange rate), the resulting number is again multiplied by 1.3 (minimum stock coefficient).

The formula for calculating the minimum performance of the hood

1. Dimensions. The air intake area should be at least (and ideally a few centimeters more) than the working surface of the stove.
2. Noise level. Usually this parameter is indicated for each model separately, it remains only to correlate the units of measurement with your own feelings.

On a note! 20 decibels emit rustling pages, 25-35 are comparable to a loud whisper or ticking of a wall pendulum, we take 50 dB during a normal conversation, 80-90 is the noise from a passing motorcycle or a switched on hair dryer, 110 is the work of a puncher or drill, but at 130 dB and above comes the pain limit.

1. Operating modes. In modern hoods, two principles are combined - the removal of polluted air into the ventilation system and its filtration (recirculation) with its subsequent return to the room.

The principle of operation of flow-through and circulating kitchen hoods

1. Lighting and instrument control. They choose to their own taste and wallet - there are models with protruding buttons, with a touch panel, with automatic on / off (of course, the more technical "stuffing", the more expensive the device). But even the simplest device copes with the main purpose of the hood - the removal of smoke and burning.
2. Hood design. In addition to high-quality air purification, it is important that the device fits into the interior of the kitchen and harmonizes with other appliances.

Inclined hood sensor model with high-tech design

In addition to the listed characteristics, one more important point should be taken into account: if power outages and power surges are frequent in the house, buy a device with a built-in or separately connected fuse.

Important! When buying a recirculation model, please note that the power of the device should be 30% higher than that of a standard hood, because the device not only draws, but also recycles air. You will also have to take care of the timely (at least twice a year) replacement of filters. But such a hood has a global advantage: it can be installed in a house where access to the ventilation duct is difficult.

Varieties of hoods - appearance and technical characteristics

Today's home appliance market offers us three main models of hoods. After studying the information about them, it will be possible to decide which hood in the kitchen in a private house will be the most effective.

Flat (classic) suspended hood

Suspended hood can be hidden in a wall cabinet

The main mode of operation is recirculation. It is recommended for small kitchens, as it is the least powerful and simply cannot cope with large volumes of air. An additional disadvantage is the constant (and expensive, moreover) replacement of filters - coal or acrylic. But this design does not need to install an additional air duct and can be attached directly to the kitchen cabinet.

Built-in hood

Built-in models are easy to hide

The device is freely placed in a hanging cabinet, only an air inlet remains below, most often equipped with an additional retractable panel. Due to this, it is ideally camouflaged and can fit into any interior, but an additional installation of an air duct is required, which can be led into the finished ventilation through a wall or roof. The device itself is not much more powerful than the previous version, but it does a better job of removing smoke and odors due to the forced emission of polluted air to the outside.

Dome or fireplace hood

Dome appliances look stylish and modern

The most powerful and modern models. They do not need to be disguised, on the contrary, their design can become a real decoration of the kitchen. They are used at any location of the plate - in the corner, against the wall or in the middle (island version). The classic outlet of the duct is up to the roof, although you can arrange an exhaust hood in a private house and through the wall.

Important! With a significant size of the kitchen and the presence of additional appliances for heating or cooking, it is necessary to use a really powerful hood. This is especially true for private houses, where, in addition to the stove and oven, there is also a gas / solid fuel boiler in the room.

Installing a built-in hood in the kitchen

Let us consider in detail the installation of a built-in appliance - the most common model that fits almost any type of room. To equip the hood in a private house with your own hands, the installation scheme involves several stages.

Preparatory work

Proper preparation for the installation of the hood is the most crucial stage, which takes the most time.

• We choose a place for the hood, focusing on the location of the plate and the dimensions of the device case.
• We make markings on the wall for fasteners, be sure to use a level. When installing above a gas stove, we place the air intake panel at a height of 75-85 cm, for an electric hob, the distance can be reduced to 65-75 cm.
• Focusing on the markup, we punch holes and drive dowels into them.
• To install the hood in a kitchen cabinet, it is necessary to cut a hole in it for the body (usually the bottom or part of it is removed) and for the air outlet pipe on the back side or roof.
• We calculate the route of the air duct from the hood to the ventilation outlet. We take into account that the length of the pipe should not exceed 3 m, and we try to make the number of its bends minimal.

Important! Each 90 degree pipe turn reduces ventilation performance by at least 10%.

• We buy the equipment necessary for air removal, as the hood is sold without it. The most affordable are now considered plastic pipes (round or flat) or a metallized flexible sleeve - corrugation. A not too experienced installer will be more comfortable with the last option - it has fewer swivel joints. True, in the open form, the corrugation is not very aesthetic, so you should think about buying a decorative box with which you can close it.

Built-in air duct fits easily inside a regular cabinet

• We prepare the ventilation outlet. Connecting to an existing ventilation system, simply remove the protective grille and insert a corrugation or pipe inside. If in a wooden house the hood to the kitchen is installed with an outlet to the street through a wall or ceiling, you need to drill a hole of the required diameter under the duct (at least 120 mm). In a building made of bricks or gas blocks, such a withdrawal will be more difficult, since there is a high risk of damaging the masonry, so it is better to stop at the option with a ventilation duct.

Scheme of output of the external ventilation hole

• We install an anti-return valve that will not allow the exhaust air to return back to the room. Outside, the hole is closed with a ventilation grill.

• We equip the connection to the power supply. It is better to place the socket behind the hood or duct pipe, and it must be grounded.

The most difficult stage is completed, the next is the installation of the hood body.

Installing the hood body

For a built-in hood, you just need to fix the case (or a cabinet with the appliance box installed in it) to the kitchen wall. To do this, we use a pair of self-tapping screws, twisted into prepared dowels. So that the hood body does not resonate during operation, you can glue it to the cabinet with liquid nails. If there are shelves inside the furniture, you need to make holes for the air duct on each of them. And now you can proceed to laying a drain for polluted air.

To correctly make holes in the cabinet, the main thing is to know the diameter of the duct pipe

Air duct installation

We carry out the air duct pipe to the installation site of the hood housing above the gas stove. Depending on the materials chosen, this process can take place in different ways.

• In the case of arranging a drain from plastic pipes, you need to carefully select all the elements - the pipes themselves, swivel corners and adapters for connecting to the vent and the hood outlet. Remember that the diameter of the duct must be the same along its entire length, since contractions and expansions can unbalance the operation of the entire system. By the way, if the length of the pipe is more than a meter, it is worth taking care of additional fasteners. After complete assembly, all joints must be treated with sealant.

The plastic air duct is easily masked

• When choosing corrugations as an air duct pipe, the work is much less. It is only necessary to fix the ends of the sleeve to the ventilation outlet and the hood with reinforced tape, providing sufficient tension to reduce resistance. However, if you want to keep the interior of the kitchen in a single design solution, the corrugation must also be disguised. For example, you can lay it behind the kitchen cabinets, which is very inconvenient. It is easier to sheathe with decorative panels or buy a ready-made box for communications.

Corrugated air duct - easy to mount, harder to hide

It remains only to check the performance of the fully assembled system, for this we plug the device into a power outlet and press the "start" button.

How to make a duct box

If the vent is located at a significant distance from the stove, the corrugation laid through the half-kitchen will violate the entire design of the room. And a flat plastic duct, which is so easy to decorate to match the color of walls or cabinets, may not be able to cope in a large room where a powerful hood is required.

Of course, there are exceptions - these are high-tech loft-style kitchens, where corrugations, pipes, wires and other communications become a thematic addition to the interior. If the room is not decorated in an urban spirit, it does not need such decorations. And the simplest and most effective way to decorate will be to cover the space between the upper cabinets and the ceiling with drywall.

Important! Moisture-resistant drywall is best suited for the kitchen, and ideally with fire retardant impregnation.

Work algorithm:

1. On the ceiling, markings are made for a metal profile frame. The lines are beaten off with the help of a level, the edge of the cabinets serves as a guide - the future box must completely repeat all the bends of the working wall. And the design itself can be located either on the same level with the cabinets (it turns out to be a perfect disguise if you choose the color of the drywall finish to match the furniture), or protrude above their surface to achieve the effect of a two-level ceiling.

Box made under a two-level ceiling

1. The profile is cut into the desired fragments, attached to the ceiling and shelves using dowels / self-tapping screws.
2. The structure is reinforced with vertical posts every 80-100 cm.
3. Then drywall sheets are cut out, and the frame is sheathed around the perimeter with self-tapping screws in increments of 30 mm (and they must be screwed in so that the hats are recessed into the material by 0.5-1 mm). Opposite the vent, you need to make an inspection hatch so that, if necessary, you do not disassemble the entire structure. For this section, drywall is cut exactly to size, but is not attached to self-tapping screws (you can point-fix the panel with sealant, and then remove it with a construction suction cup or install small doors).

1. Now it remains to process the traces of the fasteners and the joints of the sheets with putty to level the surface and decorate with a finish suitable for the interior. It can be wallpaper, tile, PVC film or other suitable material.

Plasterboard frame for hood

On a note! In the protruding box, you can additionally build in spot lighting - this looks beautiful and will be a convenient help for the hostess, because there is not much light in the kitchen.

Illuminated air duct box - effective and functional

Rules for installing the hood:

Now you know how to properly make a hood in a private house and solve the issue of decorating it. As you can see, the main points of installation are not particularly difficult and do not take much time. But it’s far from always possible to cope with the preparation on your own, especially when it comes to the hood in the wall in a private house. Therefore, to drill an external hole, you will have to rent special equipment or invite professionals who will do everything quickly, cleanly and efficiently.