Evgeny Sedov

When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Content

In spring and summer, many grow vegetables and fruits. However, this is also possible in the cold season thanks to such a structure as a winter greenhouse, for example, made of polycarbonate, which will allow various heat-loving crops to grow all year round, even in winter. The advantages of this design are obvious: in addition to obtaining vitamins for yourself and your family, you can build a whole business on growing various plants.

What is a winter greenhouse

A greenhouse for the winter period should have a reliable design: a strong frame (preferably from a metal profile), a good foundation and thick walls. In any greenhouse of this type, you need to pay special attention to:

• lighting - no plant will grow without light, close to the sun is recommended;
• heating - a rare crop will bear fruit without heating;
• ventilation - creates a favorable atmosphere for the growth of vegetables and fruits;
• Watering is the most important moment in caring for plants.

The name of this building contains the word "winter", which emphasizes the difference with the summer version. Below are recommendations on how to build a greenhouse for winter growing:

1. A film cannot be used as a material; durable, with a large thickness of glass, or polycarbonate are better suited.
2. The thickness of the walls of the greenhouse for winter should be much greater than for summer.
3. The winter version should have a very reliable frame, the tree is not suitable.
4. Heating a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter is simply necessary so that the plants do not freeze and grow well.

Construction of a greenhouse for winter cultivation

In appearance, shape, type of construction, greenhouses for summer and winter are similar. The main difference is in the materials used and communications, which will be discussed below. The size of the structure depends on personal preference, but many experts in this field believe that the minimum area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure should not be less than 50-60 square meters. m., and optimally - 100 sq. m. However, if people just want to grow vegetables for themselves, and not for sale, then 20-30 square meters will be enough. m.

Starting to design a greenhouse for the winter, you should immediately consider its location. Experts recommend installing the structure on a hillock, then the excess water will go away, the snow will melt faster, in addition, it is warmer there than in the lowland. If it is not possible to place the building on a hill, then you can pour a layer of soil on the beds. The ideal soil for growing different crops should include the following layers: sand, soddy soil and humus.

When a place is chosen, it is necessary to dig a foundation pit for the greenhouse, 600 mm is enough. An important component is a reliable foundation, which is not in the summer greenhouse. This is explained simply: the winter construction is heavier, the walls are much thicker, more massive, because heavier material is used. The construction of the frame is of great importance, it must be strong and resistant to weather conditions. There are options for arched structures, it is better to use a metal frame.

Winter greenhouse projects

The most popular are modern greenhouses for growing in winter made of polycarbonate, this material will properly insulate the structure. As for the shape, a gable greenhouse will be convenient. The most budgetary and easiest option is a greenhouse in winter with glass walls. This material is the most affordable, the price depends on the thickness of the glass. Glazing benefits:

• relatively low price;
• light penetrates well.

However, there are more cons:

• fragility of glass;
• poor thermal insulation;
• the heaviness of the material.

Polycarbonate

A popular material is polycarbonate, it is durable, holds well on the frame, flexible and lightweight, and is sealed. The foundation for it does not have to be very strong. Winter polycarbonate greenhouses with heating are a good option, cellular polycarbonate is especially relevant. It is a polyethylene film in which there are microscopic air bubbles, which provides additional thermal insulation. In addition, it is installed in two layers, between which a phosphor is placed. This substance amplifies the light that enters the greenhouse.

gable

A good option for a roof is a gable roof, water and snow flow off it without problems. In this case, the optimal angle of inclination is 20-25 degrees. A transparent material is attached to the walls, which is either double glass or cellular polycarbonate. The latter option will allow a gable winter greenhouse to serve for at least 12 years. To prevent water from flowing under the transparent walls, you need to make a visor that recedes from the walls by 6-8 cm. To warm up the greenhouse in cold weather, for example, gas heating is done.

With earth filling

Such a shed winter greenhouse is deepened into the ground. The pit for construction should be at least 80 cm deep. At the same time, agronomists recommend that the long wall of the greenhouse be on the east side, and the greenhouse frames should be directed to the south. It is better to sheathe the walls with carbonate sheets. The advantages of such a structure:

• water flows well;
• a lot of light penetrates from the east and south sides;
• during operation it will be noticeable that the design is reliable;
• good thermal insulation.

Budget greenhouse

To save on heating, you can install a greenhouse next to some structure that is constantly heated. In addition, this saves space on the land. It is not worth reducing the cost of the foundation. If you make a poor wooden frame and foundation, then under the weight of snow, the structure may deform or even break. To use less building material, you can build a small shed greenhouse, while the width should not be more than 3.5 m.

double storey greenhouse

Such a greenhouse for the winter will allow you to grow more crops, because space is used not only on the ground, but also on the walls. Trays with earth can be attached to them or whole racks with soil can be made. This arrangement is suitable for growing greens or small crops. It is recommended to install the second tier at a distance of 1 m from the ground, then it will be convenient to water and weed the plants.

How to build a greenhouse

To decide how to make a winter greenhouse, you need to think through all the options in advance, study several types of construction. In some areas, you can make a shed adjoining the house, somewhere you need to make it recessed into the ground. Or you can build a high two- or three-slope on a hill. The place on the site must be chosen so that there is the maximum amount of light from the east and south, and rainwater and snow do not accumulate, go down. The type of soil is also important: if sand predominates in it, then you need to bring sod, fertilize with humus.

Foundation

Experts recognize the tape as the best foundation. In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time and properly, all the stages of laying should be observed:

1. Decide on the size of the building, mark them on the ground.
2. Dig a trench, the depth of which should be 50 cm, and the width - 20 cm.
3. On the side walls of the trench, you need to make formwork from wooden panels.
4. The bottom is covered with sand, this layer should be 30 cm thick.
5. Concrete mixture is poured into the trench.
6. To strengthen the structure, it is necessary to reinforce the concrete screed.

Walls

On the north side, experts recommend building the main walls in one brick, because from this side the light hardly penetrates and does not affect plant growth in any way, and heat can be preserved. For other walls, you need to use polycarbonate with a thickness of 8-10 mm. It is possible, as an additional insulation, to put a sheathing around the inner perimeter of a film for greenhouses. An important point - transoms with the possibility of ventilation should be equipped, because the ability to ventilate the room is important for plants.

Roof

The best solution would be to make a gable roof, which will ensure a good outflow of water from the roof. This will reduce the load on the entire building. The angle of inclination should be within 20-25 degrees. The main points of the construction of the roof:

1. The lower strapping bars are attached to the side walls on top of the roofing.
2. The ridge beam is connected to the strapping beams with the help of paired rafters.
3. The roof is covered with the same polycarbonate or glass as the walls. Some compartments should be made open so that ventilation is possible.

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Finishing

When arranging a winter greenhouse, one should not forget about such important options for heating the room as stove heating, water, biological or electric heating. At the final finishing stage, the installation of the main internal structures takes place:

1. If the greenhouse has a vestibule with an additional door, then the following work should be carried out: insulate the outside door with, for example, polystyrene, and the inside can be made transparent - with a polycarbonate coating.
2. Install the heating system: boilers with radiators.
3. An irrigation system is equipped, it is best to make a drip.
4. Install ceiling lights.
5. Beds are laid, in a harsh climate it is desirable to use heating technologies for optimal soil temperature (biofuel, electric or water heating).
6. You can consider additional infrared heating.

Winter greenhouse device

A winter greenhouse must meet the basic requirements: a large amount of heat, moisture and sun. In the cold season, these conditions will have to be created artificially. It takes a lot of effort, but if vegetables are grown for business, then it will soon pay off. It is best to try to automate all systems so that water and light come at a certain time and in the right amount, and the heat supply never stops.

Watering and moisturizing

Depending on the size of the greenhouse, the water tank must be appropriate. If water will come from a well, then from there it is necessary to lay pipes at a depth of 1.5 m (for a temperate climate). If the winter greenhouse is large, then it is best to dig a well nearby or in the vestibule. Inside you need to install containers in which water will be heated, they should be on a hill for better pressure when watering. Heating can be either natural, from the sun, or artificial, if heating elements are installed. The containers are open, so there is also humidification of the air.

Lighting

In winter, there is not enough sunlight for seedlings, so you need to equip an additional lighting system. For these purposes, gas-discharge lamps DNaT and DNaZ are suitable. The number of lamps depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse, it should be considered as follows: per 1 sq. m - 100 W of electricity. You need to know that such lamps get very hot, so they need to be installed under the ceiling in special fixtures that can reflect light.

Video

Discuss

Winter greenhouse - device, foundation, choice of materials for construction

All hotbeds and greenhouses are clearly divided into two groups: those intended for growing vegetables and flowers in severe frosts, and those that are dismantled and hidden in a barn in autumn. And winter greenhouses are much more complicated both in their design and in their functionality than summer ones, and therefore it is not easy to build them. Although everything is possible if there is reliable, understandable information - as in this article, which describes in detail and in detail how a winter greenhouse is built with your own hands: detailed tips will help you figure it out.

Typical technology for the construction of such a building

So, how to build a winter greenhouse and what to look for during work? In the same way as the summer one - except that the foundation will be needed. And then, as soon as the installation of the greenhouse is completed, you can proceed to. So, polycarbonate biofuel greenhouses are considered the most reliable in this regard - this is the most ideal option for giving. After all, technical heating has its limits, and it is not so cheap. But for a structure that stands right next to the house, it is quite suitable, because it can be connected to a communal heating system. So, in order to determine the correct heating wiring, it is necessary to take into account the following formula: the amount of heat demand = the temperature difference between the thermal conductivity coefficient and the glazing area. And calculating this value is just the first step.

Now you need to choose heating devices. Aluminum convectors are considered one of the best, which evenly distribute heat throughout the greenhouse.

The next step is preparing the soil. Its optimal composition is a layer of sand + a layer of soddy soil + a layer of humus. To cultivate such soil, you need to prepare a mixture of a teaspoon of urea and one teaspoon of superphosphate - this way all pests will be destroyed in the winter.

So, as soon as all the elements of the heat accumulator are laid at the bottom of the pit and its ventilation pipes are installed, everything needs to be covered with PVC film from above. This is necessary so that the soil does not get into the heat accumulator and does not clog it in the end. On the other hand, such a coating helps to create good conditions for the accumulation of humus in the greenhouse.

Option # 2 - gable winter building

A solid gable winter greenhouse can also be built without problems with your own hands. It can be fenced with greenhouse frames or glazed. Even a small vestibule with a working room can be made literally from improvised means and in a relatively short time.

So, the optimal design of a winter greenhouse of such a profile looks like this:

1. The foundation should be 40x40 cm in section.
2. The walls must be brought out in one brick - 25 cm, and on them bars of 15x15 cm in cross section should already be placed, with obligatory grooves for greenhouse frames.
3. The rafter part is made of bars with a section of 10x10 cm. The rafters themselves should be connected with longitudinal bars, which are laid on the walls, together with a ridge bar. The latter must be done with a section of 12x12 cm.
4. After work, it is better to sew up all the gaps between the frames with slats, and it does not hurt to install a galvanized profile on the visor.

Such a winter greenhouse made of polycarbonate, with a glazed roof and heating, of course, will cost more, but it is more durable and much more convenient during operation. More expensive - because it will definitely have to be heated. Therefore, if you want to grow vegetables not at the price of gold, then it is better to invest more immediately, so that you lose less. What are we talking about? About a modern heating cable that is used for floor heating.

Here are detailed instructions on how to build this miracle greenhouse:

• Step 1. Dig a trench under the foundation and lay 8 mm of reinforcement in it.
• Step 2 Lay about 50mm of EPS on the inside of the trench.
• Step 3 Install the greenhouse frame on the foundation and fill the foundation with concrete.
• Step 4. Lay the foam on the bottom of the greenhouse, think over, if desired, a small drainage to remove excess moisture from irrigation.
• Step 5. At this stage, you can paint the frame and fill in the first layer of the floor.
• Step 6. Next, lay the warm floor according to the manufacturer's technology (see the attached instructions).
• Step 7. To prevent the floor from cracking in winter, now, at this stage, tighten everything with a road mesh.
• Step 8. Make the final screed and fix the polycarbonate on the frame.

This completes the installation. Here's what it looks like:

Option #3 - Double Covered Budget Greenhouse

Here are some good tips for building a double-wrap winter greenhouse.

We cover the roof of the greenhouse with a triple air-bubble film, and we make the walls with a double ordinary one. Why is it different on the roof? The fact is that with a double ordinary film, condensate will constantly accumulate there, and it is quite difficult to remove it. Therefore, take a hydrophilic film upstairs - no drops will flow from it. And sunlight will still be enough for you.

For the winter in such a greenhouse, you need to fill up all the windows with planks, except for one, and starting from February, you can open one at a time. Underground heating is very important for a winter greenhouse: it can be pipes laid in the ground, electric heating or "". And from severe frosts it is better to use additionally.

The biggest problem with any winter greenhouse is not the air temperature or even tons of snow all around. This is deep freezing of the soil. For example, in Siberia, this value can reach 2.3 meters! Naturally, freezing still gets to the greenhouse, and the soil inside needs to be protected from it. First of all, many use foam blocks or adobe blocks as a foundation, which, with cement mortar and polymer mastic, replace moisture with 40 cm of thickness of 70 cm of brickwork. Inside the greenhouse near the ground, it is also desirable to insulate - it is better with foam, well wrapped in dense polyethylene. Well, at least 40 cm of sand for additional moisture and heat protection.

For the rest, follow these tips:

Council number 1. Pay close attention to soil temperature. The fact is that the higher it is, the better the plants absorb micro- and macroelements. But there is a limit here: about 16-18 ° C, after which plants emit less oxygen and the process of photosynthesis is much worse. That is why warm beds from biowaste in a winter greenhouse are not always needed, especially when the entire heating system is designed for a different mode. But such good old technology is often used to stop the freezing of the soil, and not to warm the roots of plants. To do this, follow these instructions:

1. In the fall, after harvesting, select soil 1.5 meters.
2. Fill it with a compost layer of grass and horse manure.
3. Add chopped straw and husks from cereals - to make the earth loose.
4. After that, you can safely lay metal-plastic pipes for heating - they will not freeze even with strong soil moisture in winter.

All laid biomass will warm the soil well in winter and will serve as some fertilizer at the same time.

Council number 2. in such a greenhouse it is better to do it with the help of a sprinkling system, and - attention! – only warm water. Drip, on the other hand, can end in failure if you have not protected the soil from freezing in any way, so do not risk it.

Council number 3. It is advisable to make a small vestibule in such a greenhouse - this is not only a place to store the necessary tools, but also an excellent "thermal pocket" that will protect plants from extreme cold.

Council number 4. Take polycarbonate for a winter greenhouse at least 10-16 mm thick, and if you have already purchased a thin one, then lay it in a thermos in two layers. Also pay close attention to sealing.

Council number 5. Especially dangerous in winter are sharp transitions from daytime to nighttime temperatures. And therefore, despite the thoughtful heating, always use water containers for this purpose - during the day they will accumulate solar energy, and at night they will gradually give it away, thus smoothing out sharp transitions in the evenings and mornings.

And finally, do not be afraid to build a high winter greenhouse - it is not much more expensive to heat it, but the benefits are worth it: excellent microclimate, optimal humidity and ease of use.

Further in the article, we will talk about how to heat and heat a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter, spring and autumn, how to make a winter one with heating, which heater is better (furnaces and infrared heating) and other heating nuances.

Year-round polycarbonate greenhouses

Polycarbonate panels- one of the best materials for creating greenhouses, including year-round ones. This material is strong enough and is not subject to the destructive influence of the external environment (for example, temperature changes, high humidity).

At the same time, it is very convenient to work with such material - it is mounted on the greenhouse frame using self-tapping screws, it bends well.

The most important advantage of such greenhouses- this is an opportunity to use it all year round, to grow plants all the time and get fruits. It can be both a variety of greens and other vegetables.

Having installed all the necessary systems, you can create inside any necessary temperature conditions. In addition, such a greenhouse does not need to be cleaned after each season.

What should be the greenhouse?

All greenhouses have a similar principle of operation. Winter greenhouses have some features that must be observed during construction.

Winter polycarbonate greenhouse - stationary building and requires the creation of a high-quality foundation and a solid frame.

A prerequisite for creating a year-round greenhouse is a capital foundation. A wooden foundation will not work, because it needs to be changed periodically.

The best option- this is a foundation made of concrete, brick or block. The strip foundation is created along the perimeter of the structure, it is quite simple to install and at the same time relatively inexpensive.

The second important point is the frame of the greenhouse. Winter use involves occasional snowfalls. The accumulation of snow on the roof leads to very strong loads on the frame, which can lead to the destruction of the entire structure. The frame can be made from wood or metal.

Both materials are subject to destruction and will require preliminary preparation, and in the future - prevention and periodic replacement of unusable elements.

Preparation for construction

On the net you can find a lot of ready-made solutions for the construction of greenhouses and adapt them to your needs. You can also create your own drawing based on your needs and wishes.

Exist special programs to create drawings. They allow you to see the finished layout of the future structure.

In any case, when creating a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to pay attention to several factors.

First of all, you need to choose a place for further construction. You need to choose based on three main factors:

1. illumination. The greenhouse should receive the maximum possible amount of solar energy.

To get the maximum amount of sunlight, the greenhouse can be placed along the length from west to east.

2. wind conditions. Strong and gusty winds are not only a risk of collapse of the structure, but also large heat losses. Therefore, wind protection is necessary. For example, you can place a greenhouse next to the wall of the house or plant low perennial plants at a distance of 5-10 meters.
3. Convenience. Access to the heifer should be wide enough and convenient, which will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the building.

Then you need choose the shape of the roof future building. Most often it is a gable or arched roof.

The shape of the roof must counteract the accumulation of snow during the cold season. A gable roof is the easiest to install.

Also important is frame material. The strongest and most durable material is metal.

But it is important to remember that the creation of a metal frame will require welding for the construction of the structure. On the other hand, the tree does not require special tools or skills, it is very affordable.

And if you additionally open it with several layers of paintwork, then it can last for many years. By slightly strengthening the structure, you can achieve high strength and stability.

It is also worth mentioning choice of polycarbonate. What is the required thickness of polycarbonate for a winter greenhouse? If a fairly thin sheet (6-8 mm) is suitable for an ordinary greenhouse, then panels with a thickness of at least 8-10 mm are needed for winter greenhouses. Otherwise, there is a risk that the panels will not withstand the load, and the heat will be poorly stored inside the building.

One of the key features of winter greenhouses is the presence of a heating system. What heating of polycarbonate greenhouses to choose in winter? How to make heating in a polycarbonate greenhouse in winter with your own hands? How to heat and insulate a polycarbonate greenhouse for the winter with your own hands using stove heating?

Heating with electrical appliances, such as infrared heaters, is becoming increasingly popular. How to heat a polycarbonate greenhouse with infrared heaters?

Installing such a system is very simple - you just need to conduct an electrical network to the greenhouse and connect an electrical appliance. You will need to spend money on the heater itself and electricity.

Infrared heaters for polycarbonate greenhouses are installed on the ceiling and are able to provide the air temperature inside up to 21 degrees Celsius, and the soil temperature - up to 28 degrees.

An alternative to it is the old and traditional stove heating method.

It is much cheaper and easier to install. However, its disadvantage is the strong heating of the walls, it will not be possible to grow plants near it.

Finally, the foundation of the entire building must be made capital and stable, because the strength of the entire structure depends on it. Its creation does not require any complex steps and can be done by anyone.

Construction work must be carried out in dry weather with positive temperatures.

Instruction

How to build a winter polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands?

1. Building a foundation.

For a stationary greenhouse, it will be optimal strip foundation. To install it, you need to dig a trench about 30-40 cm deep along the perimeter of the future building. A small layer of gravel and small stone (5-10 cm thick) is poured into the bottom. Then the entire trench is filled with a layer of concrete.

When creating a mortar, a mixture of one part of cement and three parts of sand will provide the best quality.

After the solution has solidified, proceed with the installation of the next layer. A layer of waterproofing is laid out on the foundation layer (roofing material is suitable). Then the base of the greenhouse is formed. A wall of small height is laid out from a brick. Enough wall thickness in one brick. For construction, not only new, but also previously used bricks are suitable.

After creating the base and completely solidifying the solution, you can proceed to the installation of the frame.

2. Frame installation.

The simplest and most affordable option creating a frame is a frame made of wood. For its installation does not require special knowledge or skills, as well as welding. It is important to pre-prepare the wooden elements before installation.

First you need to clean the elements of dirt and adhering soil with a brush, then sand with fine sandpaper. Then rinse with running water and let dry completely.

After that, you can proceed to the application of paint and varnish coatings. The paint is best suited for outdoor use, resistant to high humidity and different temperature conditions. After the paint has dried, you can apply a couple of layers of varnish on top.

A good way to protect wood is to impregnate it with epoxy before applying paints and varnishes.

Now a beam with a section of 100x100 mm is installed along the perimeter of the foundation. To create a roof, you can use a beam with a section of 50x50 mm. When building a roof, it is necessary to prevent areas without support more than 1 meter. Also, several supports should be placed along the ridge to further strengthen the structure.

For maximum strength, you can also create a harness from the boards.

Elements are fastened with self-tapping screws and metal tape.

You can add a small vestibule at the entrance to the greenhouse. This will reduce heat loss at the entrance and exit to the greenhouse.

3. Installation of communications.

The next step is related to installation of a heating system, lighting and other necessary communications.

Lamps are installed along the ridge of the roof, sufficient to illuminate the entire room. For convenience, all switches are best placed near the entrance.

When installing stove heating a chimney is installed. It is important to remember that during the operation of the furnace, the chimney pipes become very hot and can melt the polycarbonate panels.



4. Installation of polycarbonate panels.

The final stage of creating a winter greenhouse- This is the installation of polycarbonate sheets. The sheets are fastened together using an H-shaped profile. From the ends, a U-shaped profile is mounted on the panel. The sheets themselves are installed vertically, then moisture flows better over them.

Shouldn't be fixed sheets are too rigid. Polycarbonate expands when heated, and mounting too hard can cause cracks.

Polycarbonate fastened with self-tapping screws with sealant. The seal prevents moisture from penetrating through the holes. Before installation, holes are made on the sheets with a diameter slightly larger than the self-tapping screw. A special sealing tape is laid between the frame and the panels.

After that, the greenhouse ready for operation.

Creating a winter greenhouse is somewhat more difficult than usual, but everyone can do it and does not require special skills.

In addition, the creation of such a greenhouse does not require serious financial investments. And the result in the form of fresh products throughout the year is worth the effort.

Useful video

Here you can watch informative videos about winter greenhouses, about heating for a polycarbonate greenhouse.

Tips for building a heated polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Winter greenhouses are designed mainly for growing plants throughout the year. As we know, vegetables, berries and greens are very expensive in winter, so many summer residents build structures on their site with their own hands in order to always have fresh salads and compotes on the table. But before starting construction work, it is necessary to think carefully about the design of the future greenhouse, its heating system and make an accurate drawing.

Construction device

Today, winter greenhouses can be built from various materials. Therefore, each owner of a summer cottage can choose for himself the most suitable and cost-effective options.

Forms and sizes of greenhouses:

The design of the winter greenhouse must withstand severe frosts, snowfalls and other atmospheric phenomena. The most durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material for building a greenhouse frame is wood. But such a design can stand for no more than 15 years, and then it will have to be updated.

The most durable and profitable design is considered to be a greenhouse with polycarbonate sheathing, as this material is of high quality, long service life and affordable price.

Any winter greenhouse must have a foundation, a frame and a glazed roof. It is best to build such a structure from north to south. The room should be equipped with a good ventilation system to regulate the thermal and air conditions for the proper functioning of plants.

Ventilation can be supply or exhaust. The tightness of the greenhouse is the main condition for its effective functioning. The temperature is maintained artificially.

The greenhouse can be shelved, in which the plants are located on shelves with sides, and rackless, where the plants are planted directly in the ground. The racks in the greenhouse should be approximately at a height of about 60–80 cm from the ground, and the passage between them should be at least 70 cm. The racks are made of wooden boards, plastic or reinforced concrete, depending on the design features of the greenhouse.

Photo gallery: a selection of project options

Greenhouse drawing with dimensions
Scheme of a rack greenhouse
Variant of the winter greenhouse project

Types of designs: advantages and disadvantages

There are several types of winter greenhouses, depending on their design features, the type of material used, the type of lighting, heating system, and foundation.

• Capital greenhouses are built on a strip foundation. A trench is dug in the center, which is designed to "collect" cold air, which should not get to the roots of the seedlings. Thanks to this design, the greenhouse inside warms up quickly enough and therefore seedlings can be planted a few weeks earlier than usual.
• Capital types of conventional greenhouses are collapsible structures that can be dismantled and moved around the site. For the construction of such a greenhouse, a metal or plastic profile, polycarbonate, as well as bolted connections are used. Piles serve as the foundation.

The remaining types are prefabricated structures. Only in a capital structure can a full-fledged heating and artificial lighting system be installed.

Greenhouses may differ in such parameters as:

• Functionality. They allow you to grow not only ordinary vegetables of the region, but also exotic ones.
• location in relation to the ground. There can be three types: in-depth, surface and equipped in the upper part of the barn, garage, closet, etc.
• architectural solution. They can be with a single-pitched, two-pitched, three-pitched roof, as well as arched, wall-mounted and combined.

Also greenhouses differ:

• By type of building materials. They can be built from bricks, wooden beams, metal profiles or PVC pipes. Polycarbonate or glass is used as a coating. Today, combined greenhouses are in great demand, in which the walls are lined with polycarbonate, and the roof is made of glass.
• Type of heating system. Winter greenhouses can operate on biofuel, solar panels, and also have stove, air, gas, water heating or electric.
• By type of planting seedlings and plants. They are planted in the ground or in specially knocked down boxes placed on the shelves.

Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into the following types:

1. The thermos greenhouse, or as it is called the "Patia greenhouse", despite the complexity of its design, is one of the most popular among summer residents. Its main part is underground, due to which the effect of a "thermos" is achieved. It can also be above ground, but at the same time it must be covered from the inside with any heat-insulating material. In such a greenhouse, it is recommended to install a water heating system, as it will evenly distribute warm air flows throughout the room.
2. A greenhouse with a gable roof is the most common design due to its convenience and versatility. The height of the greenhouse reaches 2-.5 meters to the ridge, so a person can walk in it without bending his head. Also in it, seedlings can be grown not only on the ground, but also in special boxes on the racks. The advantage of a gable design is that snow and rainwater do not accumulate on the roof surface, but quickly go down. Disadvantage: high cost of materials, construction complexity and high heat loss through the north wall. Therefore, it must be additionally insulated with various heat-insulating materials.
3. An arched greenhouse is considered a complex structure, as it often causes problems with the construction of the frame and cladding. Without a special device, it is almost impossible to bend metal pipes to make a frame (but you can take PVC pipes). It is not possible to use glass for sheathing the frame, so only polycarbonate or various types of greenhouse films remain. The disadvantage of an arched greenhouse is the real risk of cracks in the polycarbonate during heavy snowfall, since if the layer is too large, the roof will not withstand the load. Inside this design, there is no way to arrange racks and shelves, so plants can only be grown on the ground.
4. Greenhouse with inclined walls. The design of such a greenhouse in its appearance resembles an ordinary "house", but only with walls built at a certain angle, going outside the room. The advantage of such a greenhouse is the possibility of construction from wood, metal, plastic. Glass, polycarbonate, film can serve as a skin. The biggest plus is the "self-cleaning" gable roof. Minus - restrictions on the installation of racks and shelves along the perimeter of the walls due to sloping walls.
5. Greenhouse with mansard roof. A variation of the structure with vertical walls and a mansard roof, which copes well with mechanical loads such as snow. Thanks to the special roof, more space is formed above the head, and a large number of multi-tiered racks and shelves can be placed on the walls.
6. Single greenhouse. In terms of its design, the walls are no different from a gable, but here the roof is installed at a certain angle so that snow comes off it and rainwater flows without getting inside the room. Glass and polycarbonate can be used for sheathing. Polyethylene film is not suitable for a winter greenhouse. Along the walls, you can install shelves and racks on top of each other for multi-tiered growing plants. It is practically devoid of shortcomings, except for the complexity of construction and the installation of a strip foundation.

Preparatory work: drawings and dimensions of the structure

We will consider the construction of a winter greenhouse 3.34 meters wide, 4.05 meters long. The total area of ​​​​the premises for growing crops is 10 square meters. meters.

The greenhouse is a square room buried in the ground with shelves and a roof made of durable two-layer polycarbonate.

If groundwater is present on the site and they are close to the surface, then the greenhouse is built without deepening, and the outer sides of the structure are sprinkled with soil.

If necessary, the length of the structure can be increased by adding additional sections to the frame.

The device of the racks and their dimensions

Where the beam connects, a triangular support is constructed. Dimensions are shown on the drawing below.

Skate racks are needed to support the timber at the junction point. Also, the support should not come into contact with the polycarbonate sheathing.

A strong support system will not interfere with the movement of a person through the greenhouse. It is necessary if the length of the greenhouse is more than 4 meters. If the length exceeds these parameters, then the supports are installed every 4 meters.

Corner supports are made of timber 100x100 mm, intermediate from boards 50x100 mm.

Wall and thermal insulation

The pillars on both sides will be sheathed with a board, and insulation will be invested in the interior.

To save money, you can take round timber Ø 120–150 mm, hewn to 100 mm. The walls are sheathed with slabs.

For wall insulation, slag, sawdust or fine expanded clay are used. Quicklime is added to sawdust as a protection against small rodents.

When choosing timber and boards, it must be taken into account that this structure will be used throughout the year, so lumber must be of high quality.

• For the construction of supports and other parts of the frame, it is recommended to purchase pine boards and timber (rounded or glued). This is the most affordable, durable and cost-effective material for the construction of greenhouses in our region.

You can also choose larch or oak, but such lumber is quite expensive and therefore it is not rational to use them in this case.

Polycarbonate has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. But the more complex its structure, the greater the mechanical stress it can withstand (snow and wind).

When choosing polycarbonate, you need to know its thickness.

• For sheathing the walls of the greenhouse, it is best to take sheets with a thickness of 6 to 25 mm, depending on the intended design.
• For roofing, polycarbonate with a thickness of 16 to 32 mm is recommended, since this part of the greenhouse will have the largest load.

Calculation of the required amount of material and tools

• A bar with a section of 100x100 mm;
• Board with a section of 50x100 mm;
• Slab;
• Round timber Ø 120–150 mm;
• Boards for the manufacture of shelving;
• insulation;
• Foamed polyethylene (aluminum foil);
• Polycarbonate sheets;
• Self-tapping screws and thermal washers;
• Hardware;
• Screwdriver;
• Hacksaw or saw;

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for building an in-depth winter greenhouse

We dig a pit 60 cm deep. Its length and width should be several centimeters larger than the perimeter of the future greenhouse. At the bottom we make markings for the installation of support pillars. We dig supports to a depth of about 50 cm.

At a height of one meter from the ground, we stretch the construction rope and check the evenness with the help of a level. We fill the supports with soil and carefully tamp them down.

We level the floor and sheathe the walls with boards from the outside and from the inside, starting from the bottom. We fill the space between them with the selected insulation. So we sheathe the opposite two walls.

After we have sheathed the walls, we need to saw off the extra ends of the boards that go beyond the pillars. At the corners of the structure inside on the boards, we nail bars of 50x50 mm. Next, we will attach the sheathing to the front and back of the wall. So we sew up all the walls of the greenhouse. But we nail the boards to vertical bars.

We seal the insulation inside the walls, adding the required amount of expanded clay, sawdust or slag to the top. Then we sew up the top of the walls with boards.

We also cover the inner surface of the walls with a special foil insulation. We put the insulation so that it comes out a little at the top of the walls, and bend it so that it can cover the boards covering the upper part of the walls.

We make the roof separately from the main structure, and then install it on the greenhouse. According to the schemes indicated in the drawing, we manufacture all other elements of the roof.

We connect the details of the rafters into half a tree, and nail the jumper so that the distance below is 3 meters 45 centimeters. Since the jumper is temporary, we must nail it so that it can then be dismantled. Nails should not be driven in completely, but 10 mm from the head should be left so that they can be removed well.

We collect the rafters and nail to the support as shown in the drawing below.

After we have nailed the rafters to the support, we remove the jumpers. We install the ridge beam under the rafters and bring the front racks 88 cm in size under it. We nail the extreme rafters with nails (20 cm) to the ridge beam. To do this, pre-drill holes in the rafters. Then we install a jumper between the rafters, and we mount the flashings on the rafters on the side, the ridge beam and on the front pillars as shown in the drawing.

Reference. The flashings are called wooden planks, which are designed to close various cracks.

We fasten two-layer thick polycarbonate to the roof frame using self-tapping screws with thermal washers. To do this, we drill holes in the sheets larger than the diameter of the screws themselves.

After fixing the polycarbonate, we need to install a ridge corner from galvanized sheet. We fix it with a gasket for insulation. On the side ends of the roof, we do not fix polycarbonate until we fix the roof on the main structure.

We install the roof on the walls and fix it with 4 metal brackets. They can be made from twenty-centimeter long nails. Then we install the side parts of the roof from polycarbonate triangles.

We install an insulated thick wooden door (at least 5 cm thick).

After that, you can install wooden racks and shelves for future seedlings inside the greenhouse. They are installed on the sides of the walls at a distance of about 60 cm from the floor. A layer of earth is poured on them or boxes with soil are placed.

Heating selection

The choice of heating system depends on the dimensions of the room. For winter greenhouses with an area of ​​​​more than 15 square meters. meters suitable stove heating. Large areas are usually heated with biofuels, electric heaters or a water circuit.

Stove heating is an affordable and economical option for a greenhouse. In this case, a stove is installed in the room, which is heated with wood, coal, briquettes, pallets or gas. But since the walls of the furnace are very hot, plants should not be planted near it.

Water heating provides for the presence of a water-heating boiler, pipes and a tank. Pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 40 cm or placed immediately under the shelves.

Electric heating can be of three types: air, cable and infrared. Cable is a “warm floor” system, air is arranged with the help of fan heaters, and infrared is produced by special heating devices that are mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.

Biofuel heating is the most cost-effective heating option. Here, the indoor air is warmed by the heat released, which is formed during the decomposition of various organic substances.

The most used biomaterials are:

• Horse manure - able to keep the temperature from 33 to 38 ° C for 2-3 months;
• Cow dung - can keep 20 ° C for about 3.5 months;
• Overripe tree bark - keeps 25 ° C for about 4 months;
• Sawdust - maintain 20 ° C for only 2 weeks;
• Straw - can maintain a temperature of 45 ° C for up to 10 days.

Biofuels are placed in the ground under the top layer of fertile soil. When choosing the type of fuel, it is necessary to take into account the level of its acidity, since it significantly affects the quality of the soil. Cow dung is considered the best, as its acidity level is 6-7 pH. A more acidic environment is created by bark and sawdust, and an alkaline environment is created by horse manure. Biofuel after its use can be reused as humus.

The type of heating is selected individually for each specific case, based on such parameters as the climate of the region, the planned costs and the type of plants.

• Before starting the construction of the greenhouse, all wooden boards and timber must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic agents.
• Before installing the supports, after their treatment with protective agents, the lower parts must be tightly wrapped with roofing material and fixed with a stapler.
• It is also necessary to protect the external walls by fixing roofing material on them. And only then sprinkle them with soil.
• The roof frame, after applying a protective coating and primer, is covered with white paint intended for outdoor work.
• During the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to choose energy-saving lamps to create artificial lighting. They help you use electricity more economically. Their number and location depends on the dimensions of the internal space of the greenhouse.

Video: how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands

If, during the construction of a winter greenhouse, all technical standards are strictly observed and the drawn up diagrams and drawings are followed, then such a design will delight you and your loved ones with excellent harvests of vegetables, berries and fresh herbs for decades.

To acquire a winter greenhouse for a vegetable grower means to stop being dependent on the whims of nature, which determines the duration of the warm period at its discretion. This structure is quite complicated to build and expensive, but all financial and labor costs will certainly be justified: in winter it is pleasant to eat fresh vegetables yourself, and you can sell them at a very favorable price. Let's see what a winter greenhouse is and how you can build it yourself.

winter greenhouse requirements

A full-fledged winter greenhouse is operated all year round. This implies the first feature: unlike temporary analogues used only in early spring, it is a permanent structure. We list the main features:

It is impossible to use polyethylene film or something similar as a covering material, since such materials are very easily damaged. If a hole is formed in severe frost, the interior space will cool down very quickly and the plants will die.

Therefore, for the manufacture of a translucent coating for winter greenhouses, only durable materials are used - glass or cellular polycarbonate. Moreover, the latter, although it is less durable (it scratches easily), is the most popular - due to its flexibility, low weight, low cost and the presence of many cavities inside (provide a thermal insulation effect).

There are a lot of options for winter greenhouses. They are built both on the surface of the soil and with deepening, as well as on the flat roofs of buildings like garages and sheds. The walls are erected both from piece building materials (it is most expedient to use aerated concrete blocks), and using frame technology. The roof can be shed (the best option), gable or arched.

In this article, we will consider the construction technology of a frame-type recessed winter greenhouse with a gable roof. Due to the deepening of heat loss, it is possible to minimize, so that to maintain a comfortable temperature for plants inside, a heater with a power of only 1 kW is required. The frame technology will make it possible to use waste material for wall cladding, due to which the cost of the structure will be quite affordable for the average summer resident.

Construction drawings with dimensions

The proposed version of the winter greenhouse has dimensions in terms of 3.45x4.05 m. The usable area is increased by installing racks that add 10 sq. m. m of soil. Even if the soil on the racks is kept in round pots with a diameter of 100 mm, it will be possible to grow about 1 thousand seedling bushes in this area.

The soil under the racks, where the illumination is minimal, can be used for year-round mushroom cultivation.

The walls are insulated with two types of heat insulator, and the polycarbonate roof is a two-layer one (in everyday life, this design is called a "thermos"). Thanks to such thorough insulation, even in the conditions of the most severe cold, a 1-kilowatt heater operating only in the daytime is able to provide an inside temperature of 20-22C during the day and 13-15C at night.

Good to know. The greenhouse should not be heated too much, since at a temperature of already 250 C, plant growth slows down significantly, and at 30 C it stops altogether.

The greenhouse builder must take into account that the intensity of lighting depends on the angle of the roof. An angle of 25 - 30 degrees is considered optimal; with an increase in this parameter, the proportion of light passing through the coating drops sharply.

The proposed design provides for the possibility of increasing in length - by adding new sections. At the same time, the beam, which serves as a continuation of the existing ridge run, will need to be attached to it by means of a “half-tree” connection. The junction is strengthened by a support of two converging inclined posts resting on a horizontal run (see figure).

Please note that increasing the angle between the posts in order to turn them into additional rafters is not allowed.

With a long greenhouse, such supports should be installed every 4 m, even if the ridge beam is solid.

materials

For construction we need:

All lumber should be impregnated with an antiseptic.

Advice. If financial opportunities are limited, instead of timber, buy cheaper round timber with a diameter of 120 - 150 mm. The croaker, which you have to cut yourself, can be used for wall cladding.

Location selection

It is best to position the greenhouse in such a way that it faces south with one of its long sides. Accordingly, the ends will look to the east and west.

Another important point: the installation site of the greenhouse must be protected from the wind. Otherwise, heating costs in winter will be too high. If only well-ventilated areas are available for construction and wind protection has to be built specially, for example, in the form of a hedge, it should not be too close to the greenhouse.

Otherwise, when the air flow goes around the windshield between it and the greenhouse, a low pressure zone is formed, into which warm air from the room will be intensively drawn out. With a ridge height of 2.5 m, it is better to install protection at a distance of 15–20 m from the wall. The minimum allowable distance is 7 - 8 m.

Building a winter greenhouse with your own hands: step by step instructions

The order of work looks like this:

Rafter dimensions

Note! The recessed version of the greenhouse is not suitable for a site with a high level of groundwater. Under such conditions, the structure is erected on the surface of the soil, and the walls outside are sprinkled with earth to a certain height. Before that, they need to be upholstered with roofing material.

Work is carried out in the following sequence:

The roof assembly is installed on the greenhouse. Its base is connected to the walls by means of staples in the amount of 4 pieces, made of nails 200 mm long.

Further actions:

In order to simplify and reduce the cost, a vestibule was not provided for in this design of the greenhouse, but in general its presence is desirable. It is most effective with a length of 2.5 m, but with a shortage of space, this parameter can be reduced to 1.5 m.

Lighting

In the field of greenhouse cultivation of plants, the issue of organizing lighting is a cornerstone. It is from light rays that plants draw energy, while carrying out photosynthesis. The latter ensures the formation and accumulation of organic substances, as well as the growth of the plant as a whole.

When there is insufficient light, photosynthesis stops and plants switch to respiration mode, in which they no longer produce, but consume oxygen from the air and accumulated organic matter. With prolonged "light starvation" culture may die.

In winter, illumination is reduced by 15 times compared to summer. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the translucent coating of the greenhouse, even if it is glass, does not transmit daylight in full. Therefore, the presence of artificial lighting in this structure is mandatory. It is known that the yield increases by the same proportion as the illumination was increased.

However, you should not think that you can install the first light bulb that comes across and not turn it off around the clock. Keep in mind that the effect of light depends on its spectrum.

Light waves with different wavelengths produce different effects:

All rays with a wavelength from 400 to 700 nm are somehow involved in the process of photosynthesis, for which this range is also called photosynthetically active radiation.

Flowering of plants depends on the duration of daylight hours. In general, all cultures are divided into two categories:

Both of these species react differently to different ranges of the light spectrum. So, for example, in plants of a long day, the development of blue-violet rays is stimulated, while in a short one, on the contrary, it is delayed.

Note also that different varieties of the same plant may belong to different categories.

There are also neutral plants. An example is a rose. In such crops, the flowering process is in no way connected with the duration of daylight hours. But many other parameters, for example, the height of the stem, still depend on the nature of the lighting. For some plants, it is recommended to turn on the light periodically and for a short time.

Incorrectly selected light regime affects the greenhouse economy very significantly. The culture can grow, intensively gaining green mass, but not blooming in any way; or maybe, on the contrary, bloom rapidly, turning the garden into a flower bed, but without giving fruit. Similar effects can be observed outside the greenhouse. For example, if you plant potatoes in the shade of a tree, the stem will be very large, and there will be no tubers at all.

Comparative characteristics of various types of lamps

The principle of operation of modern light sources can be very different, respectively, and they shine in different ways. Here are the main types:

The most progressive light source today is light-emitting diodes (LED), combining a number of advantages:

The cost of LEDs is still relatively high, but due to the long service life and high efficiency, the costs pay off many times over.

The emission range of the LED is extremely narrow, that is, it shines with one color. Therefore, in greenhouses, lamps are installed, consisting of many multi-colored LED elements. Today, work is underway to create white LEDs that will reproduce light with an almost natural spectrum.

Note! Relative humidity in the greenhouse is always high, so all electrical connections must be carefully insulated, and only moisture-resistant appliances should be used.

Operation features

To keep the performance of the greenhouse at a high level, the polycarbonate cover should be washed periodically with a detergent.

In summer, the flow of light, especially its red component, to some plants is limited with the help of special screens, which makes it possible to achieve an optimal water-thermal regime and avoid overheating.

Video: self-construction of a greenhouse

As you can see, the amount of work to be done is considerable, but it does not include any super-complex operations. As a reward, the owner of the land plot will receive a year-round working garden bed, from which one can forget about the spring beriberi forever. The main thing is to strictly follow the advice given here and use reliable and durable materials for construction.