Finishing Siding is a finishing that relates to outdoor work and is intended for any residential buildings and outbuildings. This cladding is also applicable to old houses, because the light weight of the structure is not capable of damaging the foundation.

The popularity of siding has been growing over the years, due to:

• relatively low cost;
• long service life;
• high technical qualities;
• simple care;
• good protective properties;
• large selection of colors and textures.

The big advantage is that any building can be given a modern look with your own hands, saving money on the service of specialists.

Which siding to choose?

Depending on the architectural features of the building and its operating conditions, various types of siding can be used. Materials differ in strength indicators, load on the frame, care features.

For decoration of buildings can be used aluminum, galvanized And steel sidings. The aluminum look is considered more decorative, which imitates the structure of wood and lends itself well to coloring. This material is not afraid of temperature changes and does not rot. The disadvantages include the ability to deform and the likelihood of corrosion.

• cement siding produced from high-quality cement with cellulose impurities. This type of finish effectively imitates a noble finishing stone. This material is not affected by atmospheric phenomena, does not rot and does not burn. But the siding is heavy, which requires the organization of a reinforced frame and complicates its installation.
• basement siding is a cement or PVC panel that exactly repeats the structure of stone or brick. This material is produced in thicknesses greater than 3 mm, as it is installed close to the ground and can be exposed to moisture and various damages.

Materials and tools

To perform siding installation work, you will need tool:

1. Scissors cutting metal, grinder, saw.
2. Hammer, square
3. Screwdriver set, electric screwdriver.
4. Construction or laser tape measure.
5. Folding ladder.

Today, siding is offered along with accessories for finishing houses of various configurations. When buying, it is enough for the buyer to indicate the dimensions of the walls, the presence of windows, the type of roof and the consultant will calculate the required amount of material and cladding elements.

The work uses the following accessories:

• The ends of the material are closed with an outer corner.
• Internal corners connect the material to each other and to the surface of the wall.
• The eaves are sheathed with a wind dock and spotlights.
• The starting bar is set around the perimeter of the house, except for doors and gables.
• J-profile connect extensions, roofs of different levels and hide height differences;
• Windows are framed with a window bar and ebbs.
• Ebb and drain strips are installed around the perimeter of the basement.
• An H-profile connects the siding panels to each other, if necessary, add length.
• Siding.
• Galvanized self-tapping screws are used to mount the material, it is better to use self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, which provides the necessary clearance of 1 mm.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: step by step instructions

Carrying out preparatory work

During the preparatory work, dismantling of protruding wall elements, including doors, grilles, platbands. Gaps should be sealed around door and window openings. The surface of the walls must be cleaned, removing dust, dirt, mold, and chipped old finishes.

Lathing installation

The panels must be attached to the crate. For vinyl profiles are used wooden slats, which must first be treated with antiseptic agents and dried. For metal siding, it is better to install a frame made of galvanized profile.

Smooth lines are marked on the walls with a laser tape measure or level until a closed contour is formed. The next contour is drawn below, at the level of the basement, by measuring the distance at the corners of the walls and finding the minimum figure to the basement. This place will be installed starting bar. This process is very important, since it depends on whether the panels of the entire cladding will not warp.

Vertical bars are attached to the corners of the wall. guides, they are installed using U-shaped elements. These elements must fit snugly against the wall, this can be achieved with wood or foam gaskets. The guides should be located in increments of 30-40 cm. Near the window and door openings, the number of guides is added due to the additional mechanical load. Vertical guides do not need to be connected to each other, this contributes to good ventilation.

Warming and waterproofing

Wooden and aerated concrete buildings must have waterproofing. The heater is installed at the request of the owner. It is better to give preference to a membrane with moisture and windproof properties. If it is decided not to use insulation, then the membrane is attached to the surface of the walls, keeping the space for ventilation. When using a heater, the waterproofing material is installed with the top layer, then the crate is installed, providing a ventilating space.

Installation of guide elements

Work begins with the organization of drainage to the basement. The upper part of the element is located along the intended line. Drainage is a rigid element that is easy to install in a level position. Corner profiles are fixed firmly with self-tapping screws in the holes located at the top of the element. The following self-tapping screws must be screwed into the middle part of the hole.

Door and window openings are framed with J-profiles and window slats. H-profiles for vertical installation are installed using a level. This provides a gap of 5 mm at the ends to avoid deformation during expansion. Installed in the roof area finishing bar.

Panel mounting

Panels begin to be installed when all additional elements are mounted. The bottom row is fixed to the starting bar with a lock at the bottom of the element. The panel is fastened with self-tapping screws in the upper part, they are screwed in every 40 cm. All other siding panels are installed in the same way, rising up to the roof with each row. Siding must be moveable so don't fasten it too hard. A finishing panel is installed at the very top of the structure.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands: video

Siding is the best way to quickly update the building's skin and protect walls from the influence of atmospheric phenomena for many years. With proper installation and compliance with all requirements, the life of this finish is about 30 years.

The process of installing panels is not complicated and understandable even for non-professionals. It is enough to watch the installation video, study the instructions and recommendations, and you can safely get to work.

Siding is one of the types of building materials for wall cladding. With it, you can completely change the appearance of a private house at a low cost, if the house is still solid, but already quite old. In addition, finishing, sheathing with siding is used outside.

Laid on top of the insulation, it not only hides it, but also improves the entire exterior of the house. It is for this reason that many home owners decide to make such changes to the appearance of their home. And all the work will help to do the right step-by-step instructions for self-plating the house with siding.

A bit of history

This type of sheathing was invented by our Pomors. For hunting, strong, light ships were needed. It was in shipbuilding that this type of ship plating was used. Actually, the very word siding (Siding) is translated as tes. Northern peoples have adopted this technology to insulate their homes by sheathing their homes with battens. In addition to insulation, this technology made it possible to speed up the construction of houses on the northern coast, and was very popular with Russian pioneers.

Today, siding is made from modern building materials:

• Vinyl;
• metal;
• Cement (fiber cement siding);
• tree.

Various types of siding allow you to completely change the appearance of a private house without significant financial costs.

Preparing for sheathing

Preparatory work for cladding a house with siding is not very difficult. The entire building will need to be carefully inspected and several measurements taken. If there are visible influxes of masonry mortar, they just need to be knocked down. Protruding nails or drive back or remove altogether. Small protrusions, more than 6 mm high, should also be eliminated if possible.

Inspection

When inspecting the house, it is also necessary to identify the unevenness of the walls, plinth, corners, window openings and other architectural elements - in general, wherever cladding work is planned with siding. Such measurements are best done using a long standard metal rail, cord and tape measure. Deviation from the plane is permissible no more than 12 mm. In local places - no more than 6 mm.

Simply put, if the entire wall is not rectangular, but diamond-shaped, then the difference in diagonals should be no more than 12 mm. The same option, but for a window or door - 6 mm.

The general unevenness of the entire wall (pediment, cornice, plinth) should not exceed 12 mm.
The building can eventually sink to one side and tilt. The slope of the wall or the entire building is checked with a plumb line. Allowed deviation from the vertical is not more than 25 mm. If the slope of the entire building is more than allowed, then it is already in a pre-emergency state. If it is not eliminated, then further siding work is simply pointless.

Preparatory work

After checking the geometry of the building, it is required to carry out a set of preparatory work. The platbands, drains, gratings, etc. are removed. If cracks are found in the walls, near window and door openings, seal them either with mounting foam or simply with cement mortar. If you find: cracked plaster, peeling paint, areas covered with mold - thoroughly clean such areas. Treat wooden walls with any antiseptic.

Tools and materials

Before starting work on facing the house with siding, make sure that you have a complete set of available tools:

• Electric screwdriver and screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Roulettes (with laser it is easier and more convenient to work);
• Building level;
• Stairs.

How to cut extensions

When facing the building, part of the finishing panels is used entirely. But in some places you will have to make additions from the same material. Depending on what material will be used for cladding, siding, a tool for cutting panels is also selected.

For vinyl

• Electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed blade;
• Bulgarian;
• Sharp knife-cutter;
• Universal;
• Hacksaw for metal;
• Shoe knife.

metal siding

• hacksaw for metal;
• metal scissors;
• circular electric saw with teeth from Pobedit.

Advice! The use of an angle grinder (grinder) is accompanied by heating of the metal siding at the place of the cut, with damage to the protective top layer.

Material

If you want to do all the cladding work yourself, in order to purchase all the necessary material, you can simply contact a large hardware store. It is enough for the seller to simply describe in detail what area of ​​the walls, the number of windows and doors, etc., and he will calculate and select the necessary set of material for work.

And in order to control the quality of the goods, you need to know what signs the material for cladding the house with siding should correspond to:

1. The same thickness throughout the panel.
2. Mandatory presence of special markings on the inside of the panel. Such marking carries all the necessary information on the material: color, batch number, release date. If there was not enough material for sheathing during the work, you can always buy it in addition, focusing on this marking.
3. High-quality panels have an anti-hurricane lock. It is made in the form of a bend on top of the panel and is located above the holes for fasteners.
4. A sure sign that a company takes care of its image is the presence of additional elements and accessories in a set with materials.
5. All products must be provided with certificates and warranties. The minimum warranty period for coverage should be 50 years.
6. Responsible sellers will definitely attach instructions for installing siding to the purchased product.

Lathing installation

First, markup is done. Straight lines are drawn on the walls of the house, so that a closed contour is obtained. To make the line horizontal, a horizontal level helps. At the corners of the house from the horizontal line, it is necessary to make measurements with a tape measure to determine the minimum distance to the base. When the minimum distance is set at this level, the string for the contour is pulled. The starting bar will be mounted on it.

The next stage is the installation of elements of vertical metal guides from the mounting horizon, starting from the corners. The distance between the vertical slats is 35-45 cm. Additional guides are made near windows and doors. The main condition is that they should not intersect anywhere.

This is necessary in order to constantly circulate air under the siding, preventing the appearance of mold.
For walls made of brick and concrete, the guides are made of a special profile. For log walls, slats with a section of 60x40 mm, treated with an antiseptic solution, are used.

Waterproofing and insulation

If the installation of the crate is carried out on wooden and aerated concrete walls, the installation of waterproofing is mandatory.

Insulation of the walls with a mineral plate is carried out at the request of the owner of the house, but a moisture-windproof membrane must be installed in any case. If there is no insulation, the film is attached to the wall of the house. If there is a layer of insulation, a waterproofing layer is attached on top of it. Since a ventilation gap between the insulation panels and the siding is required, a crate is built over the insulation layer.

Guides

Now that the insulation is in place and the batten is ready, it's time to install siding accessories such as:

• external and internal elements at the corners of the structure;
• slats for window and door openings;
• ebbs on the basement of the building and windows.

The basement drainage is fixed at the intended level under the lower siding bar so that the upper edge runs along the line. Corner elements are fixed rigidly on self-tapping screws at the very top of the extreme hole. The screws following it are twisted into the middle of the slot in 50 cm increments.

Advice! If the profile is not enough, it can be increased by another, overlapping with the previous one with an overlap of five centimeters.

Framing the window begins with the installation of the ebb. It protrudes beyond the window opening by 8-10 cm on both sides. Side window trims are installed on this ledge. From below, the ebb is held by a j-profile. After installing the siding, window decoration is completed by installing platbands.

The process of edging a doorway is almost the same as a window.

Panel installation

The process of installing siding panels is somewhat similar to the LEGO constructor. Each element is connected to the other in turn. The first row from the bottom is attached to the first (starting) bar with light pressure until a click appears from the bottom. From above, through the slots, they are fastened with self-tapping screws in the center, so that the siding moves into them without visible effort. Fastening is carried out from the center to the edges of the building, in increments of 40 cm.

All subsequent panels are attached in the same way, rising from the foundation to the roof. The topmost row ends with a finishing bar.

Basic installation rules

1. It is imperative to avoid rigid fastening of siding panels. It should be remembered that the material itself has the property of shrinking in the cold and expanding in the summer. Therefore, the screw is screwed into the center of the hole so that there is a gap of 1 mm between the screw head and the plate.
2. Maintain a gap of 10 mm between the slats and guides. This will protect the siding from damage as it expands in hot weather.
3. Facing a house with siding can be done in any weather, but it should be taken into account that in frost the material becomes brittle and therefore requires more careful handling during installation.

Watch the video:

I have the following problem. The house is of an old construction, and it is simply necessary to insulate the corner room, in winter it is cold, damp and there is mold on the walls. There is not enough money to cover the whole house, so we decided to start from this place. This is an extension, and not very well made. Deviation from the plane, about 20 mm. So far, we have decided that the horizontal lining will show all the flaws, and the vertical one will hide it, but we doubt it.

The question arose before winter to sheathe the house with siding. Since I am not a builder myself, I encountered this for the first time. I read a bunch of different tips, sites that tell what and how to do. But so that someone specifically and put everything on the shelves, I did not find it. I came across this article. I read and understood everything very carefully. What, how to do it and what is needed. As a result, I bought beige metal siding and got to work. Since it was a vacation, everything was done quickly with a friend. It’s good that the house is recently built, so all the corners and walls are even. There were practically no difficulties. The end result is a happy wife and a beautiful home. Thanks for the article, it was very helpful.

Despite the fact that siding has appeared on the construction market relatively recently, it has already managed to gain popularity. This material does not require special care, the minimum life of the panels is about 15 years, and you can do the siding with your own hands.

The low weight also speaks in favor of this material, the panel is held only by a few screws. And thanks to the many color options, you can choose the right option for any home. No less important is the fact that siding does not emit toxins during operation, so it is absolutely safe for humans.

Tools and materials for house siding

To perform the preparatory work you will need:

• saw;
• screwdriver;
• plumb;
• building level;
• square;
• ladder;
• metal profiles or wooden slats;
• J-profiles for edging doors and windows;

• external and internal corners;

• scissors for metal (needed if a metal profile is used);
• grinder with a circle for working on metal (used for cutting siding panels in the cold season).

Preparation for installation of siding to the facade

The scope of work largely depends on whether it is planned to use insulation during installation, as well as on the type of insulation.

As elements of the crate, you can use either wide wooden slats or a metal profile. If the wall of the house is concrete or brick, then only a galvanized metal profile can be used for the crate.

To create a crate, you can use a CD-profile, which is used when installing drywall.

For wooden houses and walls made of aerated concrete, a waterproofing device is required. Most often, a moisture-windproof film is used as a waterproofing layer, "breathing" in only one direction.

If a layer of insulation is not provided, then this film is attached to the wall of the house, a crate is placed on top of it and then the siding is mounted. This provides a gap between the waterproofing film and the siding, which makes it impossible for mold to form.

In the case of additional insulation of the house, the film is already placed on top of the insulation. Then a crate is mounted on top of it and siding is attached to it.

If soft insulation is used (for example, mineral wool), then longitudinal strips are first attached to the wall, dividing the wall space into separate sections in which the insulation is placed. Thanks to this, it does not deform over time due to its own weight. In the future, for fastening the siding, the crate is already built on top of the insulation.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands

When sheathing a house with siding with your own hands, you need to strive to ensure that:

• the wall was level;
• seams were invisible. With proper installation of siding panels, the joints are absolutely invisible;
• there was a ventilation gap between the wall and the siding panel. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate between the wall surface and the sheathing, the wall will begin to rot.

You can avoid mistakes and achieve the ideal arrangement of siding panels by cladding in the following sequence:

1. Wall marking. It depends on the accuracy of the markup whether the siding panels will be located horizontally. At the roof or where the siding will end. Then, from this line, the distance to the base is measured in several places. This is done in order to determine at what level the starting bar will be located. The smallest of the distances obtained is selected, at this level a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the house - the level of the starting bar.

For greater accuracy, measurements can be taken near the corners and in the center of each wall.

1. Installation of guide elements. Before proceeding with the installation of siding panels, a drainage system is installed on the basement. Compared to the starter bar, the dewatering is much stiffer, so it is much easier to install it evenly. The drainage system is installed along the horizontal line previously drawn around the perimeter of the house.

Also, before installing the siding panels, you need to install J-bars or window panels around the perimeter of windows and doorways. When edging doors, J-profiles can be joined end-to-end, washed down before that at an angle of 45 °, or overlapped. When edging with an overlap, the top bar is above the side bars.

When installing all vertical elements, it is necessary not to bring them 5 - 7 mm to the plinth and cornice. If this rule is neglected, then as a result of temperature deformation, the planks can bend in the warm season.

After that, the start and finish strips are mounted.

1. Installation of siding panels. Do-it-yourself siding should be started from the bottom, moving up. When facing the house, each next panel is inserted into the underlying one until the lock clicks, in the upper part it is fastened with self-tapping screws.

In this case, the self-tapping screws must be screwed in the center of the oblong holes in the panel, avoiding too much pressure on the panel. There should be a gap of about 1 mm between the screw head and the siding surface.

When sheathing a house with siding with your own hands, you need to remember that this material is highly susceptible to temperature deformations (they can reach 1%). That is why the slots for self-tapping screws have an oblong shape, thanks to which the panel can move freely during heating / cooling.

• it is strictly forbidden to additionally attach the panel to the crate. This will deprive her of the ability to compensate for temperature deformation. As a result, swelling of the panels is possible;
• panels must be connected without tension;
• when working in winter, it is better to use a grinder to cut panels, the material becomes very fragile;

In general, the installation of siding panels itself is a fairly simple procedure. Much more attention, time and labor will be needed at the preparatory stage - the end result will depend on how evenly the guide elements are fixed. It will also take a lot of time to cut siding panels for a specific house.

Video - Wall insulation for siding with Rockwool

Walls and corners, especially those of a log building, need maintenance. They must be insulated from the outside. Consider how to sheathe a house with do-it-yourself siding in combination with insulation measures. Let's say a few words about the features of finishing a garage or other outbuildings.

What was siding for?

This building material is in great demand. He is unpretentious in maintenance, he is not afraid of the vagaries of the weather, and the plates themselves are lightweight and easy to install. So it is convenient to decorate a barn or garage. But why are they sheathed at home, schools and kindergartens? This is because the rise in the price of electricity has affected everyone, and it is becoming more and more difficult to pay kilometer bills.

What to do? Naturally, it is necessary to insulate houses and it is better to do it outside, especially if there is not too much living space anyway. Almost all heaters are afraid of exposure to sunlight, excessive moisture and other natural phenomena, and some sheathing materials like natural wood get wet from rain.

Siding panels do not have these disadvantages. They will perfectly protect the walls and the insulation attached to them from the negative effects of the weather. Vinyl, metal and other types of siding are sheathed not only at home with and without insulation, but also garages, warehouses, sheds and other utility rooms, because their walls also need protection from the vagaries of the weather. Sometimes only the facade of the building is decorated, because such material also copes with this function remarkably well.

We sheathe a barn or garage - why metal?

Detailed instructions on how to work with the most common type - vinyl siding, we will consider a little lower. Moreover, for the walls and facade of the house you need a lot of panels, it will be somewhat cheaper than other materials. But the garage or barn can be sheathed with metal. If possible, then it is better to purchase material with a polymer coating. It will be more wear-resistant, and its service life reaches 50 years. Fire resistance also belongs to the indisputable advantages, which is so important, especially if it is necessary to finish the walls of a garage or a warehouse in which combustible substances are stored. In addition, due to their excellent strength, such panels are in demand when sheathing shops, gas stations and even factories with factories.

After making the necessary calculations and purchasing the material you like with accessories, you can proceed with the installation work. We remove all the elements from the walls of the garage so that they are as free as possible. Then we clean them of dirt and, if necessary, primer. Next, we assemble the frame from the profiles, keeping the distance between the cells at least 60 cm and not more than 1 m. Do not forget to leave a technological gap for ventilation, 5-10 cm is enough.

Since this type of siding has a long service life, the frame should be made only from galvanized profiles.. Do not use wooden slats for it, they will rot much earlier than the sheathing material becomes unusable. And if, for example, you have a wooden shed (often these utility rooms are made of timber), then such a crate will also allow you to level the surface.

You need to work with gloves, otherwise you can get hurt on the sharp edges of the planks, and you should cut the panels with safety glasses. Metal strips are assembled in the same way as plastic ones, from the bottom up. Below is the starting, and the final - finishing bar, and during their installation, a gap of 5 mm should be maintained. To protect the interior of the facade from precipitation, you can stick a special sealant on the frame around the openings, and then press it with metal sheets. In all other respects, the process of sheathing a garage, warehouse or barn takes place according to the instructions described in the next paragraph.

How to work with panels?

To protect the walls, and especially the facades of stone and wooden houses with insulation, sheathing them with siding, you will have to spend a lot of time, as there will be a lot of calculations and fittings, because we decided to finish the housing with our own hands.

How to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Calculations

Absolutely any construction work begins with preparation, because this is the key to the speed and quality of the result. Produced first. It is best to schematically draw the building and indicate all dimensions (walls, facade, window and door openings, etc.). Further, remembering the lessons of mathematics for grade 5, we perform elementary calculations. Openings are subtracted from the total area, but if there are few of them and they are small in size, then this action can be ignored. Then you will buy a little extra cladding material, and you will have the opportunity to replace damaged panels in the future.

Step 2: Material selection

Siding differs in color, material, size, there are many configurations and, of course, the main parameter is product quality. The vinyl version is in great demand for cladding the facade or private buildings around the entire perimeter. The planks of this hard plastic are very strong and hardy. It also has the added benefit of being durable and easy to maintain. Simply wash the cover and it will be like new. A huge range of colors and a variety of designs will allow you to choose the material for every taste. When choosing a product in a store, inspect all the elements. Defects are unacceptable, the panels must be of the same thickness over the entire area. The presence of a special lock against hurricanes and double-sided painting indicate good quality. Ask sales assistants to present a certificate for the goods.

Step 3: Tools and Accessories

Having bought a set of vinyl, wood or other siding with which you are going to sheathe the building yourself, you can start preparing the tool and it is better to select it depending on the type of house - whether you built it from timber or brick, did it with or without insulation. We need profiles, corners and accessories. If the latter did not come with the panels, then they should be purchased separately. Also prepare a building level, a corner, a hammer, a long tape measure and a pencil. It is convenient to cut the panels with an electric saw, but you can also use scissors for metal. Do not forget the perforator, without it the installation of the crate cannot be completed, especially when the house is not made of timber, but something harder. When choosing fasteners, make sure that they are not afraid of corrosion, because we are talking about outdoor work.

Step 4: Surface preparation

We dismantle all removable parts, these include drainpipes, visors, platbands, shutters and other elements that may interfere with work. There are especially a lot of them on the facade, so you can start from this part of the house. Having freed up the area as much as possible, we proceed to the walls. If they already have any protective coating, then it should also be removed. Next, we check the processed plane with a level. The difference should not be more than 15 mm, otherwise the unevenness will be noticeable even after facing.

If a wooden house (for example, from a bar) or a log shed is to be sheathed, then be sure to treat its walls with a primer that will prevent them from rotting. Reinforced concrete and stone surfaces are covered with special antiseptics, often a garage is made like this. If outside the window is rainy weather or high humidity, it is better to postpone work until later, since the surface to be treated must be absolutely dry.

In the autumn, store the panels in the house or in another warm room, as, being in the cold, they become excessively fragile, which will complicate installation.

Step 5: Installing the batten

You can attach protective material without a frame, but this will significantly worsen the quality of work, so it’s better not to be lazy and make a crate. Construction profiles are perfect for it, but the use of a wooden bar is allowed (profile about 50x50). Only there are a few reservations about such a crate. It is desirable that the length of the timber be greater than the height of the building. And if you still decide to give preference to natural wood, make sure that it is dry, otherwise the frame will lead over time, this will be most noticeable on the facade, where there are many joints and transitions.

We start installation from the left corner. Perpendicular to the carrier bar, we install each new lath of the crate in increments of about 35 cm. Be sure to tie all the openings with the carrier profile and leave room for communications and outdoor lighting. Profiles are mounted on special fasteners-suspensions. There should be at least 4 pieces per rail 3 m long. Under one suspension, we drill two holes directed towards each other, hammer plastic plugs into them and install fasteners, fixing it with self-tapping screws. Be sure to check the vertical and horizontal of the "skeleton", for this we need a level with a plumb line.

Foundation sheathing

Now we come to the most exciting issue - the fastening of the protective strips. The lower part of the house is sheathed with plinth panels, which are characterized by increased strength. Further, stepping back 10 mm from the basement siding, a starting strip is installed on the wall. It is mounted to vertical racks using self-tapping screws. Use the level and follow the horizontal, because the general view depends on how correctly this element is set. Do not forget about the corners, the panels can be launched on top of each other. If there are window openings, then the connecting profiles should be mounted in their center.

Step 8: Mounting the panels

Further, everything is quite simple. Planks are easily cut with a grinder, while it is desirable to use thin discs. Each row is inserted into the previous one from the bottom up. Constantly check the horizontal level with a level. The panels are fixed with special self-tapping screws with press washers. The fasteners are screwed in strictly in the middle of the perforation, while it is better to under-compress them a little (about 1 mm). Be sure to pay special attention to panel joints. Planks should not be displaced relative to each other.

Step 9: Door and window openings

Siding will serve as an excellent material for framing houses. If you want the buildings sheathed with these plastic panels to have an original appearance, which is especially true for the facade, you can experiment with the color scheme. For example, it is beautiful when the frame around the openings and the plinth panels differ in several shades from the main color. Sometimes the bottom is made dark, and the framing elements, on the contrary, are chosen white. Special J-shaped profiles are mounted around the openings, and the resulting frame is sheathed with near-window strips. The final is a special finishing strip.

The walls of the house outside are constantly exposed to destruction by wind, sun and rain. Inside becomes less comfortable after a few years. The question arises of protecting the facade and basement, how to sheathe the house with siding. Thanks to the finish, the outer walls are better preserved, remain dry and do not become moldy. With metal siding, you can give the structure any look of your choice. An old brick house turns into a fabulous log hut. The image of an ancient stone fortress is created for the wooden building. The installation technology is available to any craftsman who is used to working with his own hands. Properly made cladding will keep the comfort in the house.

Do-it-yourself house siding

The easiest way to create the appearance of a house is with siding.

Vadik and I have many elderly relatives who need our help. Once again, we met with him to revet the old houses. Siding is the best for this. Panels can be mounted with or without insulation. The ventilation gap helps moisture escape from the walls. Proper installation of the cladding on the outside protects the facade from wind and rain, prolongs the life of the walls without repair. A simple technology is available to everyone and do-it-yourself siding at home depends only on the desire to do it beautifully and correctly.

When choosing siding for the house, we took into account the wishes of our aunts. Manufacturers produce panels that mimic various surfaces and materials. You can sheathe the house under:

• brickwork;
• rounded log;
• wild stone;
• polished marble;
• processed sandstone and dolomite;
• plaster;
• timber walls;
• lining and other types of boards.

The mounting technology and fastening of the panels are the same. The installation of the crate differs only in the material of the walls outside the house and the presence of insulation. For the foundation, it is better to choose thicker stone panels. Then the building will acquire a visually strong foundation. Plinth slabs are stronger and shorter in length. They can sheathe the walls completely. But this is an extra load on the foundation of the house and the wallet.

Siding is mainly made from:

• galvanized metal sheet;
• aluminum;
• vinyl;
• acrylic.

I want to sheathe my house with aluminum panels. They are resistant to corrosion, strong, light and durable. Such lining is not suitable for aunts because of the high price. For them, it is better to choose a metal siding finish. It is resistant to UV radiation, microcracks do not form on the surface, like vinyl. Acrylic protects well from the wind, the cheapest, but does not tolerate severe frosts.

Metal siding can completely transform your home. The choice of drawings is large. Each manufacturer produces dozens of types. It is easy to choose, you just need to know what the house should look like. Then it is better to calculate the number of panels and additional elements.

Siding on a frame house can be mounted without crates

Exterior siding at home

Sheathing a wooden house with siding is possible only after its shrinkage, more precisely 3 years after construction. Vadik and I decided to be the first to sheathe a frame house. It had stood for many years, the outside was made of wood. Insulation was put into the wall during construction.

The choice was made with the expectation to start with a simpler one. After that, having gained skills, you can also sheathe brick buildings. Finishing the siding of a wooden house was the last in line, as the most difficult.

It is right to start any finishing work by checking the deviations of the planes vertically and horizontally. The frame house had deviations within 5 mm. Only one wall was slightly concave. On it we strengthened the racks of timber. The mount was coated to prevent rust. From the creation of cold bridges, the screws were twisted into dowels. The tree was impregnated with protective compounds before sheathing.

On flat walls, the siding was screwed with self-tapping screws directly to the wooden surface. The slots in the panel were oblong and larger than the fastener rod. The heads were twisted with a gap. The tree breathes even after shrinkage.

We do siding on brick and plastered walls

Home decoration with siding

We made brick walls and plastered ones using the same technology. I will give examples of how we turned these houses with metal siding into wooden cottages. With the help of a block house, we created an imitation of a log cabin. Installing the cladding is not difficult, you can work on your own. Better to have a friend as an assistant. It helps to correctly calculate the amount of material, feeds the panels and helps to fasten. Together we were able to sheathe the outside 3 times faster.

1. They went around the house around the perimeter, cleaning out all the delaminations and closing up the cracks. At the same time, the vertical arrangement of the surfaces was checked.
2. Cleaned of dust and covered with a primer.
3. We marked the vertical racks at a distance of 50 cm. After that, it remains to calculate the amount of timber or metal profiles.
4. We attached the starting bar along the horizontal of the foundation and at the bottom of the wall. Profiled openings.
5. On the gable it is better to do vertical siding, so the planks were attached horizontally to sheathe the siding perpendicular to them.
6. Styrofoam was laid between the skin, putting it on glue.
7. They covered the surface with a fabric that allows air to pass through and retains moisture.
8. With metal siding under a stone, it is better to sheathe the base first. Then the installation of ebbs and fastening them to the horizontal bar of the wall.
9. Installing the panels took a little time. Vadik supplied strips of metal siding, I fastened them with self-tapping screws.

For the walls, we decided to choose a block house in a dark oak color. Sheathe the pediment under a pine board.

Attention! You can combine siding of only one size, choose different patterns or colors. In this case, it is better to use the appropriate type of panels for the basement and walls.

After that, sheathed the bottom of the roof, mounted the ebb. We installed corner extensions and closed transitions and starting bars. For a complete illusion, decorative elements in the form of crossed logs were placed in the corners.

Sheathing a log house requires special attention

We cover the house with siding

When the turn came to the log building, Vadik looked at the relief surface of the walls and asked how to sheathe a wooden house with siding. The frame and brick facade had a relatively flat surface. The technology for sheathing logs is distinguished by the preparation and fastening of the crate. Finished walls continue to deform throughout their entire service life. The choice of the type of fasteners and timber for the crate should be made taking into account this feature of the material.

Finishing the siding of a wooden house begins with cleaning up all defects and checking for deviations from flatness. Irregularities should be within 12 mm. Then, before sheathing with siding, it is necessary to impregnate the wood with protective compounds. On sale there are varieties of mixtures from moisture, mold, rodents. The best choice is on a natural basis of vegetable resins and wax. You can calculate the expense by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade, plus 10% for beginners with Vadik's experience, and 5% for me, a professional.

After that, a vapor barrier was put in. The crate was mounted on a level. For this I brought a laser device that indicates both a horizontal and a vertical line. Otherwise, the metal siding sheathing will not converge at the corners or will be skewed and quickly collapse.

Advice! For self-assembly, use a plumb line and check the flatness of the sheathing with a cord along three lines horizontally and diagonally.

The best choice for a wooden house is a crate made of timber

Do-it-yourself siding at home

Wooden walls change their dimensions not only from temperature differences. Air humidity is of great importance. Therefore, the best choice is a crate made of wooden beams. Holes for long black screws are made 1 mm larger than the outer diameter of the thread. It is advisable to hammer dowels into the wall so as not to create cold bridges with heat-conducting metal.

Self-tapping screws are fastened in the center of the longitudinal holes on the perforated strips of the panels. Compensation washers are placed under the cap or a gap of 1 mm is left.