The hand-held circular saw is compact in size, but at the same time capable of performing a wide range of woodworking operations. Unlike stationary saws, hand saws have less power and are not able to work with large workpieces. But their purpose is precisely to carry out precise cutting of small products.

In addition to processing wood, a manual circular saw can handle plastic, slate, laminate, parquet, and soft metal. In order for the work to be carried out correctly and efficiently, a manual mini circular saw must meet two basic requirements:

1. Configured to perform precise processing of products of different configurations;
2. Ensure the safety of the foreman while working.

If we talk about equipment, then all manual circular saws must have a minimum set of elements:

• Gearbox;
• Guide devices;
• Frame;
• Protective cover;
• Platform;
• Electrical engine.

Based on the design and operational characteristics of a manual circular saw, anyone can purchase the best option for an electric tool for woodworking.

Circular machine class and power

When choosing a hand-held circular saw, pay attention to the device data sheet. They indicate the class to which a particular model belongs. The class depends on the diameter of the working disk and the depth of its penetration into the material. Based on this, three classes of manual circular saws are distinguished.

1. Household circular unit. It is used at home, in a workshop equipped in your own garage. The devices are capable of cutting sheets up to 50 millimeters thick.
2. Semi-professional. Designed for a wide range of woodworking applications. The cutting capabilities are limited to 65 millimeters.
3. Professional machine. This machine is capable of sawing to a depth of about 140 millimeters. They are practically not relevant in everyday life.

Having determined the optimal cutting parameter for a manual mini circular saw, you should pay attention to its power. Depending on the class, there are three categories of machines.

• Household circular machines. Their power is no more than 800 W;
• Semi-professional. The electric motor power of the mini machine varies from 800 to 1200 W;
• Professional circulars. The power of the installed electric motor is more than 1.2 kW.

By choosing a mini circular saw with a low-power engine, you risk experiencing constant overheating and rapid wear of the equipment during active work. Therefore, even when buying a mini machine for home use, focus on a power of at least 750-800 W.

Criteria for choosing a circular saw

To ensure that a handheld circular saw suits your woodworking needs, there are a few key points to consider.

1. Rotation frequency. This characteristic directly depends on the power of the selected electric motor for a manual mini circular saw. High rotation speed ensures accurate cutting of material. When it comes to processing pressed wood, it is recommended to choose a device with the maximum rotation speed.
2. Circular disk. The size of the cutting disc affects the depth and speed of cutting of wooden workpieces. For mini circular saws, discs in the diameter range of 150-260 millimeters are available. 150 mm devices are only relevant for small household work. Therefore, it is recommended to choose universal disks for circular saws or purchase a set with different diameters. Pay attention to the diameter of the mounting hole, since on different machines it can be from 16 to 32 millimeters. Most often on sale there are machines designed for installing cutting discs with a mounting diameter of 30 or 32 millimeters.
3. Processing at an angle. Although most modern mini circular saws are equipped with an angled cut function, it’s a good idea to check this before purchasing. Depending on needs, the angle can be adjusted from 30 to 55 degrees.
4. Level of ergonomics of a circular saw. Here you should rely purely on individual sensations from the purchased machine. To determine whether a mini machine is right for you, you should at least get your hands on it. It would be ideal if you have the opportunity to try out the device in action. Different woodworking jobs may require different approaches to tools. Therefore, it is recommended to choose mini circular saws that are equipped with a function for adjusting the position of the handle.
5. Weight. Many believe that the weight of the device directly depends on the material from which the case is made. In fact, the body only partially affects the weight. The basis is formed by the filling, an electric motor, and circular mechanisms. Heavier models are considered to be of high quality, although it is more difficult to hold them with your hands for a long time. Here you should look for a middle ground.
6. Circular body material. The vast majority of mini circular saws use impact-resistant plastic, complemented by a rubberized handle. It is extremely rare to find a metal case. There is no need to worry about the use of plastic, since its strength will be sufficient to withstand all expected loads.
7. Cable for supplying power to the circular machine. In order not to constantly look for extension cords, it is recommended to choose a machine with a cable of at least 3 meters in length. At the same time, make sure that when working with the machine the cable will not interfere or crawl under the saw blade. The exit from the cable housing must be rigid, protected from the possibility of accidental tearing out. This is necessary in case you jerk the tool while the cable is under tension.
8. Mini circular saw price. With the current wide range, you can find handmade circulars at prices starting from 5 thousand rubles. It is not worth purchasing too cheap models of dubious production, since they cannot guarantee long-term, efficient and trouble-free operation.

Additional features of the circular

Let's look at several additional options that mini circular saws can be equipped with. Their presence is not mandatory, but they bring certain benefits.

• Circular saw electronics. With the help of electronic components, manufacturers simplify work on electrical equipment, extend service life, minimize wear and protect against human errors. The most current electronic options include soft start, overload protection, speed control, accidental start protection, and laser pointers. But as the number of electronics increases, the cost of equipment increases significantly;
• Circular saw blade changing device. Different models of manual circular saws are equipped with one of two options for a device for removing the disc. Less convenient ones require the use of two keys, while modern ones come with a shaft locking mechanism. Removing the disk is much easier, so we recommend choosing this option. But only if during work you have to change disks frequently;
• Rechargeable battery for circular saw. For construction and repair work, having a battery will do you good. It allows you to operate the machine remotely from the power supply and does not require fiddling with wires. The battery somewhat limits power and does not last long at maximum loads. Therefore, if you need to have a machine independent of wires, purchase two replacement batteries at once.

Study video lessons on working with a circular saw, read factory recommendations and strictly follow safety precautions.

And so summer is coming, time for vacations, work at the dacha, favorite time for implementing all kinds of home projects. The choice of modern stores in the selection of materials is huge, but nevertheless

The most popular and sought-after material among home craftsmen is wood and wood-based materials. But we will not talk about them, but about a tool that successfully processes wood.

The main wood processing operation is, of course, sawing. And best of all, most
cases to cut with a circular saw. Perhaps one of the home craftsmen will object - that, they say, a jigsaw is more universal, they can cut as your heart desires, both straight and figured. A jigsaw makes it easier to work with any more or less secured workpiece. And you can’t list everything that home craftsmen haven’t done with a jigsaw. I don’t argue that a jigsaw is a very versatile tool, but nevertheless I have to argue. The main cut in wood is a straight cut; the width and depth of the cut may vary, but, as a rule, sawing involves straight lines. But the jigsaw is not a specialist in straight lines; it was created for circular sawing. Of course, a jigsaw can handle a straight line; every home craftsman relies on a steady hand and a faithful eye to make the guide.

But who guarantees you a perfectly even cut when using a jigsaw? Let’s also take into account that the jigsaw is not a “sprinter”; for circular cutting, speed is not the most important parameter. And why reinvent the wheel if the tool for fast and accurate straight cuts has long been created. This is a regular circular saw. We will not consider stationary circular saws; they are heavy and bulky (weight is about 10 kg). Let’s look at hand-held circular saws, the choice of which is simply abundant today. But choice is good, but it gives rise to the problem of choice. Naturally, everyone must solve this problem themselves based on the problems that they would like to solve. The article is intended to ease the problem of choice. So what is a circular saw?

Structurally, all saws are designed approximately the same (we will not consider expensive professional models).

Base plate: The saw itself is attached to it. The base plate, in its seemingly simple and prosaic nature, plays an important role. The entire saw itself is attached to it through a special mechanism.
The base plates are available in pressed steel sheet and aluminum alloy.

Saws with a stamped base plate are, as a rule, cheaper than saws with a cast sole that are equal in power and operational properties. It is almost impossible to break a stamped plate, but any strong mechanical impact, for example, a fall, will lead to deformation of the base plate. There is no need to explain that it will not be possible to get a high-quality cut from such a saw. It is often impossible to straighten a bent base plate. In addition, stamped base plates are inferior to cast ones in terms of rigidity. For this reason, expensive professional circular saws are equipped with a cast base plate.

Their toughness is beyond praise. The only downside is that if it falls, the aluminum alloy plate may break. However, it is already clear that the tool must be handled with care.

Almost all saws have a mount for a stop on the base plate; it allows you to make parallel cuts relatively accurately. By the way, a rip fence is included in the package of many models of circular saws. The stop itself is fastened in front, although there are models in which the stop is attached in two places, front and back. For sawing particularly “delicate” materials, a special attachment for the base plate is placed on the sole. If the nozzle is provided and produced by the manufacturer, then it is included in the delivery package. Professional saws have a special groove on the base plate that allows you to work with a guide bar. Using a guide bar it is possible to achieve very high accuracy. Guide bars are not included in the delivery set and must be purchased separately.

The mechanism responsible for tilting the saw to the side.
As noted above, the saw itself is attached to the base plate through a mechanism that ensures the saw tilts to the side. The mechanism itself is quite simple; there are two protrusions on the plate, to which the eccentric mechanism is attached using two pins. The pins themselves
perform two tasks, hold the plate and ensure that the saw tilts to the side. The adjustments are designed to keep the saw at the selected angle of inclination. As a rule, the saw can deviate by an angle of 45 degrees, although this is not the limit; there are saws with an angle of 60 degrees, but these are expensive exclusive saws. The saw is tilted to the right, but here one important point needs to be clarified. The lion's share of saws has a layout where the saw is on the left and the blade is on the right. For saws with such a traditional layout, tilting is only possible to the right, tilting to the left is simply not possible, the engine gets in the way.
But there are saws in which the disk, on the contrary, is located to the left of the engine. With these saws, tilting is only possible to the left. These are not large saws, simply called “parquet saws”. The main purpose of these saws is cutting thin sheet material. According to the masters, this arrangement is more convenient for cutting work than saws with a traditional blade arrangement.

Immersion mechanism.

This mechanism is designed to regulate the depth of cut. In circular saws
Currently, an eccentric mechanism is used. Its essence is that the saw is fixed in the front part of the support on a fixed axis, and has freedom of movement in the vertical plane. By tilting the saw up and down, you adjust the depth of cut. The adjustment itself is carried out using a screw and a guide at the rear of the support. The eccentric immersion mechanism is currently the most common. And quite comfortable. But nevertheless, let us note another submersible method. This mechanism is usually used on expensive saws, but is also used in more affordable models. The point is that the saw moves in a vertical plane along two guides (rods). It is believed that this scheme is more reliable due to the better location of the riving knife.

Additional handle.

There is no need to write about the purpose of the additional handle.
The only thing I would like to note is that the additional handle comes in two types. The most convenient handle, in our opinion, is located on the saw platform - it gives better weight distribution. A more common additional handle in the form of a “mushroom” on the body itself

Protective casing: Actually, it consists of two parts: the upper fixed casing and the lower movable casing. Their purpose is clear from the name. The upper protective casing has a technological hole for removing sawdust during operation. It should be noted that the shape of the hole varies. If the saw does not connect to the vacuum cleaner during operation, then the shape of the hole does not matter. If not, then you need to pay attention to what shape the hole is: if it’s round, it’s full

order, but if the shape of the hole is far from a circle, then you need to inquire about whether the saw has a special adapter.

Riving knife: Its purpose is to prevent the workpiece from pinching the blade while sawing. The riving knife is secured with one or two bolts. For ease of installation and dismantling, many saws are equipped with special holes in the upper casing. If these holes are missing
then access to the knife fastenings is carried out by installing the saw in the position corresponding to the zero cut. Dismantling a riving knife is, in fact, a very infrequent operation, and is used when you need to start sawing the workpiece not from the edge, but from the middle.

Start button: The start button on the saw is not quite ordinary; it is connected to a protection mechanism against accidental activation. You cannot press the button without pressing the unlock button. This ensures increased safety in using the circular saw. The start button itself may differ in size. The most convenient are large buttons that can comfortably fit two fingers.

Spindle lock: A mechanism that makes it easier to install the blade is found, as a rule, only in expensive imported saws.

Power cord: It would seem that something simpler than a power cord. However, if work is expected to be done outdoors, under the influence of low temperatures, a cord with rubber insulation is preferable, which, unlike plastic, is more flexible and does not lose flexibility under the influence of low temperatures.

Motor: The main motor used in circular saws is a single-phase, synchronous commutator motor. This means that its design contains a commutator-brush assembly.
Brushes are one of the most worn components, and it is important not to miss the moment when the brushes wear out and can damage the commutator. Many advanced imported saws have self-switching brushes installed; many saws have special technological holes in the body
for replacing brushes. Saws are equipped with motors of different power. The higher it is, the better the engine copes with the loads; naturally, the weight of a larger engine is higher.

Electronics: Not present on all saws. The main purpose is soft start, speed control, overload protection, maintaining speed at a constant level.

Saw blades: The saw blade is the most important component of a circular saw. We must remember that each saw is designed for certain blade sizes, namely the blade diameter and mounting hole. I would like to immediately note that the use of disks of larger or smaller diameter
not recommended and even prohibited. If the diameters of the mounting hole do not match, the situation can be corrected by using special adapters (adapters). There are 6 main types of canvases
Type A - the blade is characterized by a large number of variable teeth. Designed for sawing chipboard, aluminum alloys, plastic
Type -B - universal-purpose canvas for various types of wood and wood-based materials. Characterized by high quality cuts.
Type-C - a blade with fewer teeth than previous discs. The purpose of the disc is sawing hard and soft wood as well as chipboard. Type -D - this disc has a small number of flat teeth. The disc is used for fast cutting and has a rough cut quality. Type -E - disc with a large number of teeth. Designed for fine cutting of soft wood

Type -P- disk with a small number of teeth. Designed for rough cutting of soft wood.

In conclusion, it would not be superfluous to emphasize that a circular saw is the tool that
All safety requirements must be observed.

Safety precautions. Regardless of your experience with a table saw, never neglect safety rules to save time or money.

• Use only defect-free and sharp circular saws. They are safer and provide better results.
• Use devices recommended by manufacturers - guards, stops, guides, etc.
• Disconnect the machine from the electrical outlet before replacing the saw.
• Do not engage in installation, configuration, etc. until the saw comes to a complete stop.
• Check workpieces for knots, nails, screws and other foreign bodies.
• Before turning on, make sure that auxiliary tools (wrenches, screwdrivers, etc.) are removed from the workbench.
• Feed the workpiece against the direction of movement of the saw, i.e. its cutting edges.
• Hold the workpiece securely as you move it across the workbench.
• Use special pushers to feed the workpiece; do not risk getting your hand into the saw’s action area.
• Never reach over the saw to remove scraps, for example.
• Do not brake the saw with a wooden object; let it stop on its own if the machine does not have a special brake.
• Periodically check the tightness of all fasteners - nuts, bolts, screws, etc.

Longitudinal sawing

The workpiece is always moved along the rip fence and is never freehand sawed to avoid the risk of the workpiece being misdirected and the saw blade jamming in it. The riving knife and blade guard must always be engaged in this mode of operation.

The rip fence, which runs along the entire work table from edge to edge, is ideal for sawing engineered wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood, such emphasis can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut kerf in surface-hardened wood would pinch the blade were it not for the riving knife, such internal stresses can push the kerf apart until it forces the workpiece against the saw blade and jams it, or possibly causes the part to eject. If the fence has forward and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end extends approximately 25 mm beyond the front edge of the saw blade protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Or attach a block of wood to the stop to ensure this clearance. With any method of installing the stop, it must be parallel to the disk.

Set the sawing width according to the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check for correct installation. If you don't trust the scale, use a ruler and measure from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the stop side. Before turning on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.

Sawing a wide board. When sawing a wide board, move the workpiece from the rear of it with one hand (but not in line with the saw blade), and with the other, press the board simultaneously against the table and fence. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that you will be the one guiding the workpiece and adjusting the feed speed.

Sawing a narrow board. When finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher - a strip with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use the second pusher to press the parts against the stop. Store the push rods near the machine so they are always available when needed.

Cross cutting

When cross-cutting on a table saw, use a miter fence or a moving table section to feed the wood onto the saw blade. A sharp saw makes such a clean cut on the end face that no additional finishing may be needed. Do not remove the riving knife and blade guard, although the knife is not of fundamental importance when cross-cutting.

Cross cutting with miter fence. On the average table saw, the adjustable miter fence is relatively short, but often has holes drilled to allow an additional, longer hardwood fence to be mounted on the stock fence. Press the workpiece firmly against the fence with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the stop.

Cross cutting on the moving section. The friction between a large workpiece and the work table can make cross cutting with a miter fence a very difficult job. The ability to cut easily and smoothly helps improve accuracy and precision, regardless of the size or weight of the workpiece. On the movable section of the work table of the circular saw there is a stop longer than average, which can be rotated at an angle from 90° to 45° relative to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making multiple identical parts.

Making bevels. To make a bevel on a table saw, set the appropriate stop at the desired angle, then feed the workpiece in the direction of the blade in the usual manner. Make sure that the part is pressed tightly against the stop so that the saw does not move it back.

To obtain a bevel cut, tilt the saw blade.

Getting the same parts

Many joinery designs require several identical pieces. Instead of marking each workpiece, set one or two guides to position the workpieces correctly relative to the blade and perform repeating operations in parallel.

Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that equal sections are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut-off part may become caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is to either not bring the longitudinal stop a little closer to the disk, or to attach a separating block to the stop, which would act as an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Cutting identical pieces. Attach a wooden block to the extension rail of the stop, which will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Making folds, grooves and tenons

On some models of circular machines, in order to cut a groove or fold, it is necessary to remove both the blade guard and the riving knife. As a result, the job is more dangerous than standard rip sawing or cross cutting, so greater care and concentration is required during these operations. Some table saws may be equipped with pressure guards that surround the workpiece in the work area near the saw. Another protection option could be a homemade wooden pad, mounted on a longitudinal stop and including a simple disk guard.

A pair of beveled - rocking - washers causes the edge of the blade to swing as it rotates from side to side and make a wider groove than a regular cut. Another method is to install a groove head. It is necessary to change the standard table insert to another one with a wider slot for the saw blade.

Two straight longitudinal cuts result in a fold in the workpiece. Make the first cut on the narrower edge of the piece, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide adequate support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove the waste wood. Make the second cut so that the wood scrap is not on the side of the stop, since the scrap, sandwiched between the stop and the blade, can be forcefully thrown out by the rotation of the disk at the moment of cutting the last fibers.

The oscillating saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. Without special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, adjusting the rip fence to the width of the blade, make alternating cuts until you have cut out the entire groove between the two cuts.

To obtain a central ridge, make two identical folds on the edge of one of the joint parts. Make the first cut in the narrow edge, then turn the workpiece over with the other end to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove trimmings from both sides of the ridge.

Execution of a spike. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making tenons. As an alternative, a wooden template can be made to hold the workpiece in place during processing. Fasten with screws two wooden blocks of equal thickness on a sheet of plywood measuring 400x200 mm. Both pieces should be aligned with the long side of the plywood and leave room to place the workpiece between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Use screws only from one end of the block, farthest from the saw. To prevent the template from wobbling, glue an additional stop.

Clamp the workpiece to the template and make one pass to cut one edge of the tenon. Turn the workpiece over to cut the second edge.

Next, partially cut away the excess wood on each side of the tenon to check its fit in the socket. If necessary, make adjustments to the stop setting before working with subsequent workpieces.

To make the shoulders, attach the dividing block to the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned in relation to the canvas.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders, and then remove waste in volumes equal to the thickness of the blade per pass.

You can modify the template to make a slot in the bevel.

Straight open tenon connection. This corner connection is used in box-type product designs. Making it by hand is a very labor-intensive process, but on a circular saw, using a simple device, you can cut out several of these connections in a matter of minutes. Use a wide-cut blade or install sway washers to select the lugs (slots between tenons). Calculate the distance so that you get a whole number of evenly spaced tenons on both parts of the connection.

To make a template, attach a long piece of wood to a miter fence and, with the height of the blade slightly higher than the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Plane the hardwood strip so that it fits snugly into the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the plank and glue this section of the plank into the cut so that you get a short protruding tenon.

Reinstall the template on the miter fence and place the rest of the trim between the blade and the template's tenon, then secure the template to the fence and remove the trim.

Place the first part of the connection on its end and rest it against the protruding tenon of the template. Secure the workpiece.

Make a pass along the saw, then put the resulting cut on the template tenon and use a new cut to make the next eye.

Continue working in this order until the entire row of tenons is completed.

The lugs on the second piece of the joint should be offset to line up with the lugs on the first piece. Place the second part on the end, as in the previous operation, but place the rest of the strip between it and the template tenon.

Then, having removed the bar, make the first cut, then put it on the template tenon and make the next eye, repeating the procedure the required number of times.

Place it on the side with glue and after it dries, plan the protruding parts of the spikes flush.

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Many craftsmen prefer a circular saw, since it is the one that can cut a board or beam along the material better than other power tools. Moreover, for example, they allow you to combine a high level of performance and maneuverability.

Work efficiency depends on the choice of saw

However, if you want to get information on how to choose a hand saw, then first of all, experts advise paying attention to the main criterion for work - the maximum cutting depth. But the choice of a circular saw is not limited to this: you also need to decide what level of performance you will need for your work - household or professional, and also choose the required size of the tool.

Medium-sized saws are currently the most widespread. This choice is explained by the fact that this tool does not require significant effort and is more maneuverable when working. However, if you are building a house and expect to do a lot of work, then you should choose a larger circular saw: you will like its performance.

At the same time, to perform such work, you will be more suited to a saw that can be installed permanently - working with thin boards and lining will be more successful. If you decide to buy a small saw, then you will have a tool in your hands that is ideal for working with thin materials.

Applying new device elements

Expensive models are equipped with an electronic soft start system, which allows the disk to gain momentum at an even speed. At the same time, the protective casing moves away from the disk smoothly, “allowing” the teeth to easily get to work without jerking. To achieve greater ease of starting work, the designs of some circular saws are equipped with a supply roller and a pendulum casing.

Please also note that some electronic control systems allow you to change the number of revolutions of the saw blade during the cutting process. This function is very convenient because it allows this device to work not only with wood, but also with softer materials, for example, such as plastic.

Modern types of saws also consist of models that can control and control the speed of rotation under load during operation. The last function is especially relevant, as it protects the device from overheating. It is also very convenient that many modern circular saws have an indicator of overload and wear of the motor brushes. Typically, such saws are also equipped with a quick braking and spindle locking system for easy blade replacement.

A very useful feature nowadays is that both professional and household models of saws have in their design special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner. And although this reduces the maneuverability of the saw, there are fewer harmful factors when working with this tool.

Circular saw teeth

Not a single saw can do without teeth: therefore, when creating effective cutting conditions, you also need to learn to understand them. For example, note that when working with plywood and softwood, it is better to use discs with regular teeth. But when performing a task with chipboard or hard wood, you need to use disks with carbide teeth: they have special pobedit tips, as well as a different number and shape of teeth.

A small number of teeth (up to 24) on the disk will be most ideal for cutting work: for example, when you need to longitudinally saw boards. Finish cutting will be better done with discs with a number of teeth from 36 to 48 pieces. But, be especially careful when working with boards that are hardwood or have nails inside them: here you need discs with teeth, of which there should be about 54 pieces, and which have trapezoidal soldering.

Working with a circular saw

And, although all the previous information also related to direct work, in this section we would like to talk about what quality work with such a tool depends on. Experts answer this question this way: basically, the quality of work will depend on the rotation speed of the disk and its type. In addition, the cutting efficiency will be directly affected by the transverse and longitudinal balance of the device, that is, there should be no distortion in the center of gravity of the tool. Such an imbalance will cause tension, discomfort and unnecessary fatigue.

It is also worth paying attention to the quality of sharpening of the disc. This becomes especially important when working with low-power models. Today, finding the answer to the question of where to sharpen a disc is not a particular problem. The main thing in this matter is to notice in time that the saw needs to be sharpened.

Signs that the disc needs sharpening include the following: great physical force is required during operation, the edges of the cut burn, or the engine noticeably overheats. Well, if smoke is already coming out of the saw and you can smell the melting insulation, then you clearly missed the time to sharpen the blade, and now you will reap the consequences of your carelessness in this matter.

In general, we wish you to understand all the intricacies of working with a circular saw and use it to make only smooth and high-quality cuts.

The main operation in the woodworking industry is sawing. And one of the best tools for performing such a task is a circular saw. If you use a jigsaw, then, like many other home craftsmen, you may mistakenly think that it is more versatile and easier to use. This is, of course, true, but for creating straight cuts, a circular saw is still better suited. And in order for the work to be as safe, productive and high-quality as possible, you need to know about the design features of this tool and the rules for its use.

A circular saw is used to create straight cuts in a variety of materials.

What you need to know about circular saw design

The design of all amateur and semi-professional models is almost the same. Expensive professional units are equipped with additional elements and functions, but if you do not plan to open your own sawmill, you will not need such a tool.

One of the main structural elements is the base plate. The tool is directly attached to it. Despite its apparent simplicity, this element is very important. The base plate can be made of aluminum alloy and stamping.

Stamping is cheaper. Such a plate is quite strong, but any more or less strong mechanical impacts, even an ordinary fall, lead to deformation of the product. But it is impossible to get a high-quality cut from a saw with a deformed base plate. And you are unlikely to be able to straighten it yourself. Stampings have less rigidity than their cast counterparts. Therefore, if you have a sufficient budget, then it is better to buy a slab with a cast support. The only drawback of such products is that they can break if dropped. However, here everything depends on the caution and responsibility of the user.

The base plates of almost all saws are equipped with a stop mount. Thanks to this element, relatively accurate parallel cuts can be obtained. Almost all modern models are equipped with a parallel stop. This stop is attached to the front, but there are also models that allow it to be attached both to the back and to the front.

If you have to cut very delicate materials, then you need to put a special attachment on the sole of the base plate. Typically, such attachments are included by the manufacturer in the kit. For professional models, the support plates are equipped with a special groove that allows you to work with the guide rail. With this element you can achieve the highest possible accuracy of work. However, guides are usually not included in the kit; they must be purchased separately.

Purpose and use of tool elements

Circular saws are equipped with many different elements and additional functions. For example, quite often instruments have an additional handle. There is no point in talking about its purpose - it makes working with the tool more convenient. The only thing that needs to be noted is that this element comes in 2 types. The most convenient, according to user reviews, is the handle mounted on the saw platform. Most often, tools are equipped with an additional handle in the shape of a mushroom.

The circular saw must be equipped with a protective cover. This element consists of two parts. The lower one is movable, the upper one is fixed. There is a special hole in the upper part through which sawdust is removed during operation. The hole can have different shapes. If you do not connect a vacuum cleaner to your saw, then you can not pay attention to the shape of the hole. If the vacuum cleaner will be connected, then it is better to select a tool with a round hole, otherwise you will have to additionally look for a special adapter.

Circular saws must be equipped with a riving knife. It is designed to prevent the disk from being pinched during operation. This element is secured with a pair of bolts. To make it easier to install and remove, there is a special hole in the upper casing of the saw. But there are also models without such a hole. In such a situation, to gain access to the fasteners, the saw must be installed in a position that corresponds to the zero cut. It is quite rare to dismantle the knife. Usually the need for this arises when the workpiece has to be cut from the middle, and not from the edge.

It is important to know how to operate the tool's start button. For circular saws it is not entirely simple. This button is associated with a safety mechanism that eliminates the risk of accidentally starting the saw. That is, you will not be able to press this button until you press the unlock button. Thanks to this solution, the circular saw becomes as convenient as possible to use. The button can have different sizes. It is more convenient if it is large.

Another important design element is the spindle locking mechanism. It makes the disk installation process easier. In most cases, it is found exclusively in expensive imported models.

It is important to know how to handle the power cord. This seems very simple at first, but if the saw will be used outdoors in cold weather, it is better to have a rubber insulated power cord. This option is preferable to plastic, because... rubber is more flexible and its elasticity does not decrease at low temperatures.

Quite often, modern models of circular saws are equipped with various electronics. It makes the tool easier to use and more convenient. The most common functions are soft start, overload protection, speed control, and maintaining a constant speed level.

What you need to know about saw blades?

Circular saw blades are used differently for different materials.

One of the most important elements of any circular saw is the saw blade. You need to know that each tool can work with disks of a certain size. It is important to pay attention to such points as the mounting hole and the diameter of the disk. Safety precautions prohibit the use of disks with a larger or smaller diameter than required by the design of a particular tool. This can only be done if special adapters are used.

There are 6 main types of canvases:

1. Type A. These are saw blades with a large number of variable teeth. Used for cutting plastic products, particle boards and aluminum alloys.
2. Type B – universal disks. You can cut a variety of wood species and wood-based materials. Provides high quality cuts.
3. Type C. Discs of this type have fewer teeth compared to previous blades. Used when working with chipboard and soft and hard wood.
4. Type D. Such blades have a small number of flat teeth. The cut is quite rough. Mainly used for fast cutting.
5. Type E. Discs have many teeth. Their main purpose is fine cutting of soft wood.
6. Type P - blades have a small number of teeth. Designed for rough cutting of soft wood.

It is important to consider that a circular saw, like almost any other power tool, is unsafe. Therefore, when working with it, you need to adhere to certain safety measures that will help avoid electric shock, fire and other damage. When working with such a tool, manufacturers recommend observing the following rules:

Before you begin, be sure to check that the extension cord is in good working order and that the saw cord is intact. The circular saw itself must be dry and clean. Check the serviceability of the protective casing.

There are a number of points that are unacceptable when working with a circular saw. It is prohibited to do the following:

1. Work with damaged and deformed saw blades.
2. Install discs of the wrong diameter to the tool. An adapter can be used to compensate for the internal diameter, but the external diameter must fully correspond to the capabilities of the tool used.
3. Work with material containing nails, staples and other metal products. They must be removed before starting sawing.
4. Install a poorly sharpened disc.
5. Use the saw without a protective guard.
6. Start work feeling unwell.
7. Use the tool with the disc positioned incorrectly (to the side or up).
8. Use a tool with a faulty trigger button.
9. Stop the disc using lateral pressure.