Construction of a garage

• Brick garage - from 16,000 rub/m2
• Foam-gas-concrete garage - from 11,000 rub/m2
• Frame garage - from 8000 rub/m2
• Garage made of profiled timber - from 12,000 rub/m2
• Garage made of laminated veneer lumber - from 16,000 rub/m2
• Garage made of rounded logs - from 13,000 rub/m2
• Garage made of reinforced concrete slabs - from 24,000 rub/m2
• Metal garage (LSTC/corrugated sheeting) - from 5,500 rub/m2

Construction of a canopy

• Carport made of polycarbonate on iron poles - from RUB 3,300/m2
• Cantilever carport - from 4700 RUR/m2
• Forged carport - from 5100 RUR/m2
• Carport made of corrugated sheets - from 4000 rub/m2
• Carport made of metal tiles - from 4100 rub/m2
• Carport made of wood - Individually

Roofing

Rafter system	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Lathing	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Covering gables with edged boards	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Covering gables with siding, block house, clapboard, etc.	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying under-roof hydro-wind insulation	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Laying roofing felt	from 100.00 rub.	m2
Laying Ondulin	from 250.00 rub.	m2
Laying metal tiles	from 300.00 rub.	m2
Laying flexible tiles	from 400.00 rub.	m2
Laying OSB - plywood	from 200.00 rub.	m2
Insulation of roof slopes	from 150.00 rub.	m2
Installation of a drainage system	from 250.00 rub.	p.m.

Prices for garage foundations

• Strip foundation (height 60cm - thickness 30cm) - from 3000 rub/m.p.
• Strip foundation (height 80cm - thickness 40cm) - from 4350 rub/m.p.
• Monolithic slab (height 20cm) - from 3500 rub/m2
• Monolithic slab (height 30cm) - from 4360 rub/m2

Cost of one screw pile with screwing and concreting

• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,000 rub.
• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,200 rub.
• pile thickness 89 mm. + height 3m - 3,300 rub.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 1.5m - 3,100 rub.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 2.5m - 3,400 rub.
• pile thickness 108 mm. + height 3m - 3,500 rub.

Electric installation work

Assembly, installation and assembly of electrical panels	Unit change	Price
Installation of an external electrical panel	PC.	from 800 rub.
Installation of a hidden electrical panel	PC.	from 1500 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel without an electric energy meter	PC.	from 2000 rub.
Installation of an electrical panel with an electric energy meter	PC.	from 2500 rub.

Installation and disconnection of junction boxes 3	Unit change	Price
Up to 4 cables for open wiring on soft material (wood)	PC.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	PC.	400/450/500 rub.
Up to 4 cables for electrical wiring under plasterboard	PC.	350 rub.
Up to 4 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete/brick/concrete	PC.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for open electrical wiring on soft material (wood)	PC.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	PC.	500/550/600 rub.
From 5 cables for electrical wiring under plasterboard	PC.	450 rub.
From 5 cables for hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete/brick/concrete	PC.	600/650/700 rub.

Installation (laying) of power cable up to 4 mm2:2	Unit change	Price
Opened directly to the wall using brackets	m/n.	50 rub.
Opened in a corrugated pipe over soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Opened in a corrugated pipe over solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	150/150/150 rub.
Opened into a cable channel on soft material (wood)	m/n.	100 rub.
Opened into a cable channel on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	m/n.	200/200/200 rub.
Hidden in foam concrete	m/n.	300 rub.
Hidden in brick	m/n.	350 rub.
Hidden in concrete	m/n.	400 rub.

Installation of a new electrical point (socket/switch)1	Unit change	Price
Open electrical wiring on soft material (wood)	PC.	200 rub.
Open electrical wiring on solid material (brick/foam concrete/concrete)	PC.	250/250/250 rub.
Electrical wiring for plasterboard	PC.	250 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in foam concrete	PC.	300 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in brick	PC.	350 rub.
Hidden electrical wiring in concrete	PC.	400 rub.

Finishing work

• Installation of an electrical kit inside the garage - from RUB 10,000.
• Production of garage concrete floors - from RUB 25,000.
• Replacement. Manufacturing of wooden floors - from RUB 20,000.
• Interior decoration of the garage with dry eurolining - 800 rubles. per m2
• Manufacturing of metal gates with a wicket and painting - from RUB 30,000.
• Set of overhead sectional doors + installation - from RUB 45,000.
• Cosmetic repairs inside the garage - from 1500 rubles. per m2

Good afternoon, dear subscribers of the site. In today's lesson, let's look at building a garage from timber.

A garage can be built from almost any material, but the most environmentally friendly solution is a wooden garage - it has high thermal insulation properties, while the garage walls “breathe”, allow water vapor to pass through and neutralize odors. The most convenient material for building a wooden garage is timber. It is quite simple to build a garage from timber with your own hands, because modern materials do not require adjustment and drying, in addition, they are impregnated with fire-retardant solutions, which eliminates the danger of fire and rotting.

Advantages of a timber garage

• Natural, environmentally friendly material allows you to create a pleasant microclimate, which is especially important in cases where the garage is also used as a workshop;
• In a wooden garage there is extremely rarely high humidity, which contributes to better preservation of the car;
• Wood is an easy-to-process material, so you can easily make a timber garage with your own hands, without involving specialists with equipment.
• A wooden garage made of timber fits perfectly into the overall design of the site and a country wooden house.

The only serious drawback of wood is its flammability, so a timber garage must be regularly treated with a fire retardant compound.

Stages of constructing a garage made of timber

A timber garage requires a foundation. The foundation can be strip or slab, but it must be at least 20 cm above the ground surface to avoid contact of wood with soil, otherwise the lower crowns of the garage will quickly rot. It is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing between the timber and the foundation.

The walls are erected from profiled timber, laying them in a log house. You can order a ready-made log house and assemble a garage from timber yourself - the price will increase slightly, and the amount of work will be noticeably lower.

The floor in the garage can be made of either concrete or wood. In the first case, it is more convenient to choose one that will also serve as a floor. The article discusses a garage made of timber with a wooden floor, on a columnar, shallow foundation made of concrete blocks or bricks.

The garage roof is made of a single slope, with a slope to one side or back, or a gable roof. The design of the rafter system depends on the shape of the roof.

It is advisable to carry out additional insulation in a timber garage only if the garage will be heated. Insulation in this case is carried out from the outside; most often a ventilated façade is made of corrugated sheets, metal or vinyl siding.

Technology for constructing a garage from timber with your own hands

1. A columnar foundation is being erected. To do this, determine the dimensions of the site for the foundation, remove the fertile part of the soil and level the site. Mark the installation locations of the columnar foundation using pegs and twine. The columnar foundation is installed at the corners of the building, as well as along the walls at a distance of no more than 2 meters. In the place where the columnar foundation is installed, a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 20 cm is made, and in areas with heaving soil - from 40 cm. The sand is thoroughly compacted, spilled with water, and a layer of roofing material is laid on it. Columns are erected from concrete blocks or bricks, fastening them with cement mortar. Their height is leveled using a string stretched during marking. After the solution has hardened, waterproofing is done with bitumen mastic, and roofing material is additionally laid on top in two layers.

   

   Step 1 - building the garage foundation and laying the bottom frame

2. The bottom frame - the embedded beam - is laid on the posts. The timber is fastened at the corners without leaving any residue, using the “paw”, “half-tree” connection method, or on a root or insert tenon. The connection method depends on the qualifications of the builders and the building material. Finished log houses are usually already adjusted to a specific connection, and all you have to do is follow the assembly instructions.

   

3. Logs are cut into the embedded timber - floor coverings. They are made from a 40 mm bar or board laid on the end. The distance between the logs depends on the load on the floor; for a garage it is better to choose a distance from 0.5 to 1 m. The places where they are cut into the timber must be impregnated with an antiseptic.

   

4. Subsequent rows of timber are laid on top of each other, using the same type of connection as for the mortgage. The rows of timber are connected to each other using dowels; to do this, both timbers are drilled with a hammer so that the holes coincide, and a dowel - a wedge made of hardwood - is hammered into them. In this case, the dowel must be recessed into the timber by several cm, otherwise cracks will form when the log house shrinks.

   

5. Rafter legs are cut into the upper crown, connecting them together “in half a tree”. The shape of the roof depends on the design of the garage, as well as its size. If the garage is attached to another building, it is more convenient to make a pitched roof with a slope towards the external wall; for a detached garage, a gable roof is more convenient.

   

6. After completing the roof, it is advisable to immediately cover the log house with permanent or temporary roofing. For temporary roofing, you can use waterproofing films with increased strength and resistance to UV radiation, for example. The film is laid out on the rafters with some sagging, the strips are glued together using mounting tape. The roofing of a garage made of timber can be of any kind, either from rolled materials, such as roofing felt with sprinkling, or from slate, ondulin, corrugated sheets, or metal tiles. The roofing covering is placed on sheathing boards previously laid on top of the waterproofing, secured with self-tapping screws or nails specially designed for this type of covering. Do not forget about particularly vulnerable places - the ridge, the junction of the roof and the walls. They must be insulated from moisture with additional elements.
7. Garage floors are made from tongue-and-groove floorboards, secured to the joists using nails or self-tapping screws. The floor, as well as the inside walls of the garage, must be coated with a fire retardant compound to prevent the wood from catching fire. If leaks of fuel and lubricating liquids are possible in the garage, it is advisable to cover the floor with metal sheets. The floor can also be made double with insulation.

   

The entrance to the garage is made of 60 mm boards laid on a support beam. The beam is cut into the lower embedded beam at an angle of no more than 30 degrees, and impregnated from below with bitumen waterproofing. Cross boards are nailed onto it. Garage doors are an important element of any garage. They can be made either as hinged doors, consisting of two doors, or as a timber garage structure that is strong enough to withstand any type of gate.

A garage made of timber with your own hands can be used as an all-season workshop; for this you need to install winter heating in it. Most often, electric heaters with a temperature sensor are used for this purpose, allowing the temperature in the garage to be adjusted automatically. You can also arrange a viewing hole or even a cellar in such a garage, which will significantly expand its functionality.

1. The question of building a garage arises for all car enthusiasts - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary house building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent duration and complexity of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build DIY frame garage, literally in a few days and at the lowest cost - this will be the best option.

It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning to create a frame garage, you manage to find a skillful assistant with experience in the art of construction, so that he will not only be “always on hand,” but also be able to warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.

Advantages of frame construction

As you know, in recent years the technology of constructing frame houses has become very widely practiced, which, when using high-quality materials, correct installation of the frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?

A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.

So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:

• Simplicity of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save considerable money, which, otherwise, would be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
• The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a significant saving of effort and money.
• A relatively affordable price for the building materials necessary for the work - this depends on the specifics of the future garage.
• The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the use of specialized equipment for construction work and will reduce transportation costs.
• The construction of a frame garage can be made of either wood or metal, at the choice of the car owner.

The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage

If we talk about the procedure for constructing a garage, it differs little from building a small house and includes several stages:

• Preparing the site for construction - clearing the construction site.
• Digging a pit.
• Creating a foundation.
• Marking and assembling the wall frame.
• Creation of a roof structure.
• Work on insulation and wall covering.
• Installation of garage doors.

So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.

Construction site preparation

This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out efficiently, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a consequence, the entire structure will depend on them.

Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked and then well leveled. The area should be larger than the perimeter of the garage by 500÷600 mm on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of 150÷200 mm of top fertile soil layer. Such work can be done using special equipment or manually.

The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling out equipment is quite expensive. The soil is removed manually using two shovels - a bayonet shovel and a shovel shovel. Using a bayonet shovel, the boundary and depth of the soil layer to be removed is outlined, and the same tools are used to trim and crush it. After this, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, while simultaneously carrying out leveling.

After the site has been cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted using a hand tamper or roller.

Foundation for a frame structure

The next step in the prepared area is to mark the foundation of the garage. You can choose any foundation for a frame structure, since the building will not be overly massive and will not put a large load on the foundation. True, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. Of the existing types of foundations, in this case, strip or slab foundations would be preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.

Based on the selected dimensions, it is necessary to mark the corner points of the perimeter of the base for the walls. For all types of foundations, the corners are marked, in principle, the same way, but their internal arrangement is somewhat different from each other.

Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

— One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the reference to other objects on the site.

- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made from stakes and a crossbar board.

— The cords are stretched along one side and the other of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and are fixed on castoffs on the opposite side.

- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.

- Now we need to achieve straightness of the corners. The cast-off crossbar makes it possible to move the cord fixation point on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the “Egyptian triangle” is usually used: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long, even slats, reinforcing rods, or even from a strong, non-stretchable rope (cord).

You should not make such a triangle too small - there is a high probability of error. You can, for example, take “n” to be 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.

- You can finally make sure that the rectangle is correct by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they should be the same length.

- If it is being built, then the internal area for the foundation is additionally marked to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the illustration above. At the intersection of the stretched cords the pits for the pillars will be located.

• Columnar foundation in arrangement It seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to outside help. This design is most often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often installed in a frame wooden garage.

A columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from different materials - reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks, or a combined design. But for a garage it cannot be called an entirely optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - an entrance ramp - also arises. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not seem excessive.

• Excellent for placing a frame structure on it. It is more complex to manufacture and requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take longer, taking into account the waiting time for the concrete to harden and mature, which means that the process of building a garage will take a longer time.

However, strip foundations have their advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create an inspection pit equipped in accordance with all the rules. The garage floor can be made of either wood or concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for logs, additional supports will have to be made inside the strip foundation, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or wooden beams treated with bitumen mastic dug into marked places.

Prices for bitumen mastic

bitumen mastic

• often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to install, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.

This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made, reliable garage floor is created, characterized by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is eventually planned to be replaced with the main walls of the garage, then a slab foundation is perfect for this.

We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.

Self-building a foundation - how to do it right?

If there is no construction experience in this field, then you must first “take a training course.” Details of how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation - are described in a special publication on our portal.

Garage frame

The frame of the building can be made of timber, a metal profile, or these materials can be combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:

• Installation of the lower frame trim.
• Assembly and raising of vertical frame wall structures.
• Securing the top trim.
• Sheathing that further strengthens the frame structure.
• Installation of roof frame structure.

Installation of the frame structure must be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing on which all dimensions are indicated. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and fold them in separate stacks, writing the parameters and frame area on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.

Bottom harness

So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, roofing felt is used for this purpose. This is necessary to preserve the wooden frame elements from direct exposure to moisture, and the metal ones from the occurrence of corrosive processes. This “cutoff” prevents moisture from spreading capillarily from the foundation walls from the soil during melting snow or rain.

Next, a wooden beam 120×120, 120×150 or 150×150 mm, a board 50×120 or 50×150 mm, is laid and secured on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete strip or along the marked lines on a slab base around the perimeter. When installing a metal frame, a steel channel or profile pipe with a square section of 100×100 mm is used.

Wooden trim elements may have different connections at the corners. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.

When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the joint can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using “bandaging” at the corners,

The wooden parts of the frame are secured with anchor screws or on studs pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.

Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.

If the frame is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame the frame is installed on the edge of the joist boards.

Joists are needed not only to secure the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.

Wall frame installation

The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:

— Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each element of the frame is installed separately and fixed in the overall vertical structure of the walls. This option is most often used when assembling wooden structures.

— The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in assembled form, is set up and fixed to the frame vertically. This method is especially convenient when, for example, when assembling metal structures, additional devices are used - jigs, which facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.

Vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made from a profile pipe or timber 60×60 mm, as well as boards 30×120 or 30×150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the bottom trim and the planned thickness of the insulation.

Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom frame can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of attaching metal racks to a wooden base.

Upper frame frame

The upper frame of the structure should rigidly bind the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the top trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.

Prices for edged boards

edged board

For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the frame can be made from boards of the same width, laid in two layers, or timber, for example, 60 × 120 mm.

This illustration shows a version of the top trim, made of two layers of boards, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical posts of the structure.

Primary frame cladding

To immediately strengthen the wall frame, it should be sheathed on the outside or inside with sheet material (plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated sheets).

At this stage of the work, it will be enough to secure the sheets only on one side of the walls of the frame, since the cladding in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. This process is completed after the roofing material has been secured. If it is planned to further insulate the building from the inside, then the cladding is done from the outside, but sometimes it is done the other way around.

Frame garage floors

The garage roof can be single-pitch or gable. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to arrange an attic space or just an under-roof space for storing various tools and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.

The roof installation consists of several stages of work:

— Manufacturing of truss systems for single-pitched or gable roofs.

— Sheathing the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse sheathing.

— Flooring roofing material.

Gable roof

Garage floor

It is best to install a wooden floor when the roof is covered and the walls already have solid cladding. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, non-grooved boards are most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its condition under the influence of temperatures and moisture.

A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will preserve the wood from deformation.

The boards are fixed to the joists, and most often they are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep-penetrating strengthening primer, which will bond the top layers of concrete, strengthen them, and impart additional hydrophobic qualities. This floor can be painted, tiled, or left as is.

In the same case, when a strip foundation is chosen for the garage, serious work still needs to be done on creating a concrete screed.

How to properly concrete a garage floor?

A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of durability and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication on our portal.

Insulation of a frame garage

Thermal insulation material can be mounted into a frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the walls have already been initially covered with sheet material. In any case, the insulation must be located between two layers of cladding.

Garage exterior cladding

Different materials are used for cladding the walls on the outside, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.

The most popular finishes are metal or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as corrugated wall sheets.

Corrugated sheeting has a very affordable price, is easily mounted on a frame and perfectly protects walls from moisture, mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so they can be installed independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.

Garage Doors

You can install gates of different designs on the frame structure of the garage - sectional, roller, up-and-over and swing.

The easiest to make yourself are swing double-leaf gates, and other structures, as a rule, are manufactured and installed by experienced craftsmen.

Swing gates are made of metal and (or) wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or timber is used, which is sheathed with metal sheets, corrugated sheets, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to the exact dimensions taken from the opening. Such a structure will not cost much, and when insulated, it will become a reliable barrier against the cold in winter, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building also plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate ranges from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this point must be foreseen in advance.

In addition to the material for the frame and its lining, to make the gate you will need powerful hinged hinges for two leaves, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, purchase a lock that is completely hidden behind the front door panel, leaving only a small hole for the key to enter.

Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not particularly needed for such a structure.

It’s easier to assemble wooden gates, or at least cover them with light corrugated sheeting or siding, matching all the other walls of the garage.

Examples of building a frame garage - step by step

Insulated garage with gable roof

This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “major” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil the landscape design of even the most equipped area.

Illustration	Brief description of the work stages performed
	So, the first step, after clearing the site of the fertile soil layer, is to mark the territory, that is, determine the right angles of the perimeter of the garage along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from boards are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions presented above.
	Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, the pillars are planned to be installed only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. On the long sides, in addition to the corner ones, two more supports are placed with equal spacing, on the short rear one - one in the center. An additional post is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork fits into them freely, the work is best done manually, periodically fitting a box made of boards to the pit. The slats are nailed on top of the box so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed.
	The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Medium-fraction crushed stone, 50÷70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the crushed stone.
	The next step is to fill the formwork with a concrete solution consisting of sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The solution must fill the entire internal space of the box, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula 120÷150 mm wide.
	Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150÷170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made of different materials, but asbestos concrete is most often used, as it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they take a short pause so that the concrete sets, and then the space around it is filled with crushed stone, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the ground surface by 120÷150 mm.
	The pipe, rigidly fixed in the pit, is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it must be “bayoneted”, for example, with a piece of reinforcement. This process is carried out to ensure that all air is removed from the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure.
	Immediately after pouring the solution into the pipes, long metal embedded elements are installed, made of strips no less than 5 mm thick, and the height should exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the piping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes in height are pre-drilled. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross-section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. The embedded strips should be shifted as much as possible and rotated in the pipe towards the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely hardened.
	This time can be spent usefully. The entire site, from which the top layer of soil has been removed, is covered with medium-fraction crushed stone. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using a regular hoe, and compacted with a manual tamper.
	The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing felt - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After this, you can proceed to the installation of the lower framing of the frame, consisting of timber with a cross-section of 170×150 mm. The timber is laid on the pillars and pressed against the loops embedded in them.
	At the corners, the strapping beam is connected into half a tree, but is not firmly fastened until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The beam ends at the border of the garage door - this is where additional supports are provided.
	To secure the timber to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must reliably hold the base in a given position throughout its entire service life.
	The next step is to drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm through the holes in the metal hinges in the timber, into which the fastening screws are screwed into the screwdriver until they stop using a special hexagonal head.
	Next, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid with a distance of 40÷50 mm from the outer edge of the beam and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long.
	A solid frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally secured along the same line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawed off.
	Next, the frame needs to be marked for installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400÷500 mm.
	After the markings have been made, the corner posts of the frame are attached to the bottom trim. They are first grabbed with long 100 mm self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners.
	Before fastening, all racks are set to the building level. If you plan to install windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure.
	The horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to vertical racks, diagonal ties are installed. They will also give the structure strength and prevent the frame from deforming.
	After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of timber or boards laid in two layers. The top trim must be strong, since it connects the vertical posts of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are also installed on it. Particular care must be taken to strengthen the gate opening and the wall frame around it. To do this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber.
	After completing work on the frame, they proceed to assembling the elements (trusses) of the rafter system. It is convenient to assemble them on a horizontal plane, that is, on the ground. To do this, the rafter legs are laid out at the desired angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (tightening). A stand (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the tightening, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure.
	The joints of wooden parts are reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long. In this way, the required number of rafter pairs is assembled.
	The next step is to mark the location of the finished trusses of the rafter system on the long sides of the upper trim. They are usually installed in increments of 600 mm. Next, the rafter pairs are lifted onto the frame and laid out upside down.
	Then they are installed - the triangles are turned over one by one and installed on the top trim, according to the applied markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional posts; there can be five or seven of them, together with the central headstock. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but will also serve as a lathing for the decorative cladding of the pediment. Then a cord is stretched between the two outer triangles, which will be easy to navigate when exposing the remaining rafter pairs.
	The trusses are secured to the harness using special wide metal angles with perforations. Through these holes they are fixed to the tie bars and rafters, as well as the top trim. The corners must be installed on both sides of the installed rafters, since only in this case will they be rigidly fixed. After securing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them together and along the line of the ridge.
	When the roof structure is installed, it is covered from the garage side with a waterproofing film, which is secured to the ceiling beams using staples and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated.
	At the bottom, the film is additionally fixed with sheathing slats 20 mm thick, onto which the garage ceiling lining will later be fixed. To secure the boards, self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long are used. The installation pitch of the slats is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	The next step is to lay insulation material on top of the film between the ceiling beams on the attic side - most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost.
	A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150÷170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant tape.
	The next step is to sheathe the slopes of the rafter system along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time leveling them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be quite leveled after installation is completed by walking along the intended straight line with a hand-held circular saw.
	The result is neat roof slopes. To carry out ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which will be closed with ridge elements after laying the roofing material.
	Next, the plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, so a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Rolled waterproofing materials can be self-adhesive, or they can be secured with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm.
	The laid sheets are immediately marked for fastening the sheathing. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed, since this type of material is attached directly to the waterproofing.
	For the convenience of carrying out work, slats are temporarily attached to the laid canvas, on which you can rest your feet.
	The next step is to attach the counter-lattice slats, the ridge board and the eaves batten to the roof slopes. The cross-sectional size of the slats is usually 50×15 mm; they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws.
	In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is simultaneously covered with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant plasterboard or plywood (OSB). Horizontal slats are fixed on top of the sheathing, which are necessary for fixing the decorative finishing of the walls. In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for securing the plank sheathing. After the fixation of the slats is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if natural lighting is provided in the garage design.
	Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be done so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes to the height of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these areas, wind boards are also fixed along the eaves.
	Then the first layer of decorative wood sheathing is applied to the wall sheathing slats. The width of the boards is 130÷150 mm, thickness 10÷12 mm, they are secured with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood.
	To arrange a water drainage system, places for securing the gutter brackets are marked on the eaves boards.
	The next step is the installation of the roofing covering, in this case, it is rubber-composite slate with imitation of natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is carried out from the cornice, the covering is laid from left to right.
	After laying and securing the roofing covering, it is covered with ridge elements on the ridge, which are also mounted with an overlap.
	Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in holders. A second layer of wood paneling is installed on the walls. This layer is fixed to already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them.
	The walls inside the garage are insulated with mineral wool, which is laid between the frame posts. The mats should occupy the entire space and fit tightly to the wooden parts.
	The insulating material is covered with a waterproofing material, which is a dense polyethylene film. It is secured to the frame bars with staples using a stapler.
	Next, starting from the ceiling, all internal surfaces of the garage are covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Tile can be laid on top of this material, or it can be primed and painted with acrylic paints for facade work - at the request of the owners.

Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the work on the construction of this garage are its doors and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.

In this case, the project included the installation of overhead gates, the leaf of which, when opened, rises and goes under the garage ceiling. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, you can install another version of the gate on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.

As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, an inspection hole is almost always installed in the garage.

Wooden frame garage without insulation with a pitched roof

This simple garage design is perfect for building on a summer cottage, and any car enthusiast who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw can build it. Moreover, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.

This version of a frame garage is installed on a columnar foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of turf, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars increases - it is necessary to provide intermediate points for the ax and joists.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The bottom frame of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a beam with a cross section of 150×120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step is to install boards with a cross-section of 150×50 mm on the intermediate foundation pillars, which are attached to the framing beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. The boards will serve as a reliable basis for installing a wooden floor.
	The next stage is the installation of front corner vertical posts made of timber with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm.
	Next, mark the opening into which the garage door will be installed. According to the markings, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is set aside from the center of the trim beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, delimiting the doorway on the sides.
	The next step is to form the base of the rear wall frame. It also consists of four racks, spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in height of the front and rear walls, the required slope of the pitched roof is formed.
	All vertical bars are secured to the frame using powerful metal corners that secure the posts on both sides.
	As you can see in the illustration, the top trim in this design differs from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear posts are separately connected to each other by a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. To cover, you will need ten boards 5500 long with a cross section of 120×30÷50 mm. They are installed on the edge and secured with metal corners.
	Next, the midpoints of the sides of the garage are measured and marked. In these places, vertical posts are installed, which are connected to each other by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar using metal corners.
	The next step is to connect the side posts in the middle with boards, which can be fixed to the posts with corners or one of the connections used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall appears to be divided into four sections.
	To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is strengthened with a diagonal tie, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut into a vertical stand.
	The underside of the diagonal tie is installed and secured in the corner between the horizontal lintel and the vertical middle post of the frame.
	The result is a lathing that resembles the division into sections of the British flag. It should be noted that the frame can be simplified by attaching several less massive ones between the main posts. This becomes possible due to the fact that the structure of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards.
	Next, sheathing boards 20 mm thick are laid across the rafters. They are mounted at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If flexible bitumen shingles are used for the coating, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for possible expansion of the wood, which can occur with high air humidity. Instead of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is also laid on the rafters.
	This illustration clearly shows what a shed roof structure is for a frame garage.
	Having completed the installation of the plank sheathing, on the front side of the garage the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their caps should be recessed into the wood.
	The next step is to install the roofing material on the sheathing. It can be used as corrugated sheeting or slate, which is familiar to everyone. Of course, if financial capabilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are used for coating.
	If the garage is covered with entire sheets of corrugated sheets, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be installed in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the eaves, and also from left to right.
	After covering the roof, you can move on to laying the wooden floor. It uses a board 150 mm wide and 40 mm thick. It is imperative to leave a gap of 3÷4 mm between the boards, which will keep the floor level and prevent the boards from deforming due to temperature changes, changes in air humidity, or direct water ingress, for example, when parking a car in a garage in rainy weather.
	The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The frame of the walls is sheathed with boards installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will be almost invisible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100÷120 mm and different widths can be used.
	The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or profiled metal sheet. Unedged boards of the first layer are installed with gaps of 80÷100 mm, and for external cladding, boards are installed with a gap of 2÷3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should be on the boards of the first layer, so that through gaps do not form.
	Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only a car can easily enter the garage, but also its owner can freely enter, without the risk of hitting his head due to inattention. So, if the height of the front wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm.
	So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut out in the vertical posts into which the edges of the horizontal timber beam are inserted. A beam with a cross section of 50x50 mm must fit into the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then, first a layer of unedged boards and then decorative cladding are attached to the upper gable beam and the fixed crossbar on the outside.
	The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account the gaps of 5 mm on the hinges, shields for the gates are made from boards 20 mm thick. It should be noted that if the sashes are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second layer of planks or plywood, then a board for assembling the panels can be taken with a thickness of 12–15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and while maintaining temperature gaps, you need a hard and absolutely flat surface. To do this, you can use plywood sheets laid out on a flat area in the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100÷120 mm. The shield is fastened with jumper bars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, with a distance of 150 mm from their edges. To provide rigidity and maintain the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are connected to each other with metal corners.
	The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal crossbars installed on the inside of the sash with bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Next, the doors are placed one by one in the gate opening, on the sides of which the hinge attachment points are marked at the location. When closing the sashes, there should be a small gap of 3÷5 mm between them, since they should not touch each other.
	The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame posts using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts for which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the doors. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing in some areas against the sheathing boards, then these areas must be corrected with a plane.
	To create an exit ramp for a car at the edges of the width of the gate, powerful bars with a cross-sectional size of 250×180 mm are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and secured to the lower frame of the structure. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to rotting. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration.
	There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are sunk into the ground, leaving only the upper part of the beam on the surface.
	A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load of a car.
	Upon completion of the work, the finished garage, which has the simplest design and is built from available materials, may look like the one shown in the illustration. If the building is sheathed with a different façade cladding material, it can acquire a more respectable appearance. In addition, nothing prevents the interior from being insulated and finished, which will allow the garage to be used in winter, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install convector heaters indoors and provide good lighting.
	If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, it will be quite simple to do. Markings are made on the wooden flooring and a rectangle is cut along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the deck in any way, since the main load falls on the areas where the car wheels will be located.

No car enthusiast will refuse an inspection hole

A garage probably won’t be complete if it doesn’t have an inspection hole. And if conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instructions for a ready-made garage are in a special publication on our portal.

So, it is quite obvious that if you want and have basic construction skills, building a frame garage yourself on the territory of a summer cottage or next to a private house is a completely solvable task. The advantage of such a building is the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from a capital one.

To conclude the publication, here is another example of the construction of a frame garage.

Video: the work of craftsmen constructing a frame garage

Now on the market there is a huge amount of building materials for the construction of garage boxes. However, one of the most environmentally friendly options is a wooden structure. Thanks to its high thermal insulation characteristics, it is possible to effectively retain heat, and the fibrous structure of the wood allows the garage to maintain air ventilation. At the same time, building a garage from timber with your own hands takes the same amount of time as installing a frame garage.

Profiled timber is considered the most effective and convenient material to work with. Due to the delayed operation of modern production lines, the finished material does not require drying and additional adjustment to size. Especially for construction, the timber is pre-impregnated with fire and a bioprotective solution, which virtually eliminates the possibility of fire and rotting of the material.

Are we building a garage with our own hands from timber? Then let's look at the whole process step by step!

Choosing materials for a garage made of timber with your own hands

First you need to decide on the criteria for selecting timber. There are 2 options here - either we choose a solid one or a glued one. The advantages of laminated veneer lumber are that it does not warp at all and is practically protected from cracking. Another plus is the tongue-and-groove system, which allows you not to use an additional layer of insulation during construction. There is one minus - in most cases it is one of the most expensive environmentally friendly materials. That is why a do-it-yourself timber garage is mainly built from ordinary profiled wood.

Profiled timber is considered one of the budget options (along with frame and panel technology). If the timber is well dried, the frame will have virtually no shrinkage. At the same time, assembly from profiled material takes the same amount of time as for glued structures.

The most affordable of the proposed options would be solid timber with natural humidity. However, such construction of a garage with your own hands from timber will be accompanied by the installation of inter-crown insulation, since the timber is uneven and cracks will appear during the construction process. Also, with further shrinkage of the structure during the first 2-3 years, it will be necessary to periodically caulk the seams in places where new cracks have appeared.

It is important! If you have the financial means, then ideally you should order a ready-made timber frame, which has already settled and does not shrink further. Moreover, you will not need to cut out the joints yourself - you will receive a design from the contractors to the specified dimensions.

The preparatory stage before the construction of the foundation and structure

Plan and diagram of a garage made of timber

Before you directly start building a garage from timber with your own hands, you need to assemble the tools, choose a convenient site for the foundation and understand the features of the chosen project. Let's talk briefly about each of the points.

Choosing a tool for the job

In addition to purchasing the selected type of timber with a cross-section of at least 100 by 150 mm, you will also need a set of construction tools. Throughout the installation process you will need:

• A small circular or reciprocating saw with a set of replacement chains,
• Several mallets, birch dowels and inter-crown insulation,
• A set of metal corners for attaching the roof and sheathing to the foundation,
• Power tools: drill, hacksaw, plane,
• Tools at hand: hammer, chisel and pistol with a set of staples, shovel.

Preparing the site for the foundation of a future building

The choice of size and configuration of a concrete foundation depends on the characteristics of the soil on your site, the overall dimensions of the selected type of construction and the availability of materials (from a cost point of view). Having decided on the type of foundation for the project, you need to dig and level the area along the axial dimensions to a depth of 50-70 cm. It is best to level with sand, organizing a sand cushion 20-30 cm thick.

It is important! When preparing the site, be sure to take into account the depth of soil freezing in your area. Also note that the upper edges of the future foundation should “stick out” above ground level to a height of at least 10 cm. This way you will protect the wood in the lower crowns from contact with the ground.

Development of the project and drawings

Even before preparing the site for construction, you must have a clear idea of ​​what the garage will look like. The garage project will allow you to develop a design concept and calculate an estimate for the necessary materials. Before building a garage from 100x100 mm timber with your own hands, the drawings and plans should ultimately contain information on the following parameters:

• dimensions of the garage along the axes (indicating the allotted distance for the car, storage space, workshop, etc.);
• entrance gates, entrance doors and their exact location are indicated;
• the presence or absence of a cellar (inspection pit, second floor, etc.);
• type of foundation selected (slab, strip or columnar configuration);
• type of flooring (earthen, concrete or wooden type of flooring);
• the presence of heating systems (are you going to equip a cold and warm version of the garage);
• the final shape of the roof (single or double slope), as well as the type of roofing materials.

Only after clarification of all these points can you proceed to building a garage from timber with your own hands. With the help of drawings, plans and sections, it will be easier for you to mark and assemble the structure. At the same time, the estimate for materials will allow you to stay within your budget without spending extra money or purchasing unnecessary materials.

Building a foundation with your own hands for a garage made of timber

Depending on the type of foundation chosen, the list of works will change. Most often, either a slab base is poured or a columnar foundation is used.

In the case of a slab, the most important thing is to correctly assemble the frame from the reinforcement and check the concrete mixture - it must meet the characteristics specified when ordering. Pouring, as a rule, is carried out in one go - the concrete mixture is smoothly distributed along the entire contour of the formwork. The most important thing is to compact the concrete as much as possible to remove air, which will later lead to the appearance of pores.

When choosing a columnar foundation, it is necessary, in accordance with the markings of the pile field, to dig holes and pour the reinforced structure into several layers of concrete. The most important thing is to align the heads of the resulting concrete pillars and maintain the “vertical” when concreting the metal frame.

You can read the nuances and features of constructing one or another type of foundation for garage buildings in the relevant sections on the website. In this material, we will consider in detail the stages of independently erecting sheathing and installing a roof on a garage made of timber.

Installation of a timber frame for a garage

To create a durable structure, you must first prepare the foundation base. We lay any of the rolled waterproofing materials, including roofing felt, in two layers on the concrete base. Next, a 20 mm longitudinal board, well impregnated with bitumen solution, is laid along the entire perimeter. This will serve as protection for the lower crown from moisture evaporating from the surface of the concrete.

Don't know how to make a timber garage frame stable? Check the harness. It is the installation of the strapping that will influence the load-bearing characteristics of the building. Here, special attention should be paid to the connection between the wooden elements - in the corners it is better to use the “claw” connection principle, reinforcing the knot with metal corners.

It is important to know! If you plan to lay wooden floors in the garage in the future, then it is necessary to install the joists at this stage. Simply cut them directly into the harness, ensuring a connection pitch of 80-100 mm. This will ensure the strength of the floor structure without loss of load-bearing capacity.

After tying, we install the garage crowns. When assembling yourself, it is best to first perform a “rough” assembly of the crowns. This will allow you to measure and adjust all the links of the log house in length, making identical cuts on all sides. Also, do not forget to drill small holes for fastening the dowels (steps no more than 100 mm). When finally assembling the crowns, be sure to lay insulation - tapes made of jute or flax fibers are most often used here.

Installing a roof on a timber garage with your own hands

To install a roofing system on a finished timber frame, you will need a partner. First, mark the places where the rafters will be attached. Then install rafters every 2-3 meters and attach them to the top crown of the garage. How to make a garage from timber together with a house? Just build a common lean-to structure, which is attached to the house on one side and to the edge of the garage on the other.

Video of building a garage from timber

To build a garage from timber with your own hands, photos of materials and descriptions of the general technology are sometimes not enough. Video publications come to the rescue. This video shows the main aspects of arranging the foundation, erecting sheathing and installing the roof. Enjoy watching!

If you want to build yourself a garage quickly, inexpensively and without the use of heavy equipment, then a do-it-yourself wooden garage is your choice. The material is affordable, has many advantages and can last quite a long time. But for this you need to adhere to construction technology. The tree must be treated with protective agents.

What's next? You will learn more from this article. We will tell you how you can make your own wooden building as a garage. You will see a diagram, photos and videos that will help you with the work.

Choosing a construction method

There are two main technologies for building a garage made of wood. They are significantly different from each other. What kind of technology is this?

1. Construction of a garage from rounded logs.
2. Construction of a frame structure from OSB boards or plywood.

What are the differences between these technologies? In short, rounded logs will cost you more, but a wooden garage will last longer. As for the frame option, it is faster and cheaper, but not as reliable. However, most often they choose the second option. Frame structures do their job perfectly, and you can decorate the building with any material. In terms of practicality, frame construction technology is more profitable. You can see frame wooden garages in the photos attached.

Building a garage out of wood is an excellent option. Wood is 100% environmentally friendly, can “breathe”, has excellent thermal characteristics, and can also last a long time. We’re not even talking about the accessibility and ease of working with it. Since building a frame structure is a popular option, let's find out how you can build a wooden garage, the size of which will be 6x4 m.

Construction of a 6x4 garage

So, we will look at the technology for constructing a standard garage, the size of which will be 6 × 4 m and the height 3 m. The wooden gates for the garage will be made 2.8 × 2.5 m in size. As for the foundation, it will be monolithic, in the form reinforced slab. The frame of the building is made of 100×100 mm bars. The cladding is made of OSB boards. Now we will analyze in more detail all stages of construction.

Preparing the base for the garage

When you have in your hands all the necessary drawings, a construction plan and materials for its construction, you can begin preparing for construction. First, you need to know where exactly on the site your garage will be located. Then, it is important to pay special attention to this:

• remove all trash;
• clear the space of bushes, trees and extraneous buildings;
• remove the fertile soil layer.

After all the steps are done, you can begin to work on the foundation for your wooden garage.

Foundation structure

The advantage of wooden structures is that they are lightweight. So it turns out that to build them you don’t need to deepen the foundation much and make it particularly stable. You need to make a shallow monolithic slab foundation. The algorithm of actions is as follows:

All you have to do is wait until the base dries. This will take at least a month.

Note! To reduce the cost of construction and make construction much faster, you can use a columnar foundation. Since the structure of a 6x4 garage is not heavy, it will do the job quite well.

We build a garage frame

We mentioned that the frame of a wooden garage will be made of bars with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. This is quite enough for the reliability of the construction. What will the finished frame consist of?

Here are the basic elements you need to know:

• lower trim (crowns);
• vertical racks;
• struts to strengthen the frame;
• top trim.

First of all, beams are laid on the foundation, acting as the lower frame.

Advice! Before laying them, it is worth waterproofing the foundation with roofing felt or other material.

The lower frame is fixed to the concrete with anchors. The bars are also fastened together. When the bottom trim is ready, begin installing the vertical posts at the corners.

The vertical posts are fixed using metal corners on both sides. And in order to give the structure additional rigidity and reliability, angular slopes are mounted, as shown in the figure.

Please note that the corner bevels will be placed on the inside of the frame. This is done so that there is free space for covering our wooden garage with OSB boards.

When all the corner supports are installed, you can make the top trim. It is done according to the same principle as the bottom one. Everything is securely fastened with metal corners and jibs. When you have built the main structure, additional posts are installed around the perimeter to strengthen the structure. After all, the size of the garage is 6x4 m, so you can’t do without them. The photo shows how additional supports can be attached.

Advice! If you want to give the structure even more rigidity, you can make transverse stiffeners. Then fixing the OSB will be even easier and more reliable.

We cover the frame with OSB

Now all that remains is to sheathe the finished structure with OSB boards. This is the best option. From the outside they are protected from wind and bad weather by a membrane and finishing material. To make your garage warm, you can use insulation. Then the walls will resemble a sandwich. After covering the perimeter of the garage with OSB boards, foam plastic, mineral wool or other insulation, it is placed in the space between the racks. Everything is sheathed with a vapor barrier film, after which it is sewn up either with the same OSB boards or with other finishing material.

You can see exactly how the process of covering the frame using OSB boards occurs in this video.

However, OSB is not the only cladding option. For this purpose, you can use other materials, such as lining, wooden boards, siding, corrugated sheets, etc. Nobody limits you here, decide for yourself.

Roofing device

As for the roof, it can be of two types: gable or single-pitch. Its installation will require a rafter system and cladding material. It all comes down to the fact that the corresponding grooves are made in the frame and on top, to which the rafters will be mounted. Bars with a cross section of 40×100 mm can be used as rafters. In the photo you can see a flat version of the roof.

Next, the sheathing is made and the roofing material is laid. For the garage, bitumen shingles, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, slate or ondulin are most often used. Which material to choose is a purely personal matter.

Let's sum it up

We can say with confidence that your wooden garage is almost ready. All that remains is to work on the floor, which can be done in different ways. Since your foundation is made of a monolithic slab, it is better to protect the concrete. It can be painted or covered with tiles. In the end, all that remains is to make a wooden gate, install it in its place and check the closing and opening. To prevent your garage from being broken into by intruders, take care of quality locks. So quickly and easily, you can build a wooden garage on your site yourself. It will serve for a long time, fully performing all assigned tasks.