A hammock is a comfortable and lightweight hanging bed, which is usually used in camping conditions or for landscaping a personal plot.

Who owns this invention and the time of its appearance today is difficult to establish. Different variants of fabric hanging beds have been known since antiquity in many cultures.

Today they occupy an honorable place not only in tourist equipment, but also in personal plots. This is a great way to organize a comfortable place to relax in the garden at minimal cost.

Hammock, if desired, you can make yourself. And if you do not have suitable trees on the site, then you can also assemble a reliable stand with your own hands.

Types of hammocks

Like any other convenient thing, the hammock has gone through many metamorphoses throughout its history. Today, the most popular options for execution can be called:

• Classic hammock bed(wicker or fabric on slats with two hanging points);
• Moroccan cocoon hammock, fabric, without slats. Due to the soft design, it completely wraps the body of a lying person. Suspended at two points;
• Hammock swing(suspended at two points on a special design that allows it to swing);
• Hanging rocking chair(has one suspension point at the top).

Today, hammocks are used not only in open spaces, they can often be found and in the interior of living rooms. They successfully fit into a variety of styles, save space and are simply comfortable.

DIY hammock

Materials and tools

So, as we have already found out: a hammock is a hanging fabric. So, for its manufacture you will need:

• textile- it is better to take a dense and natural one (jeans, tarpaulin, canvas), although it is heavier than synthetics, it loses to it in durability, but it is much more pleasant to the touch and lets air through;
• ropes, capable of withstanding a load of 150-200 kg, they can be made of any material, but natural ones are easier to knit, they slip less and are easier to work with;
• wooden sticks, with a diameter of 30-50 mm, which are sold at any hardware store;
• also, depending on the design and complexity of the model, you may need a synthetic winterizer or other soft filler, eyelets (metal or plastic cylinders made of two parts with caps that are used to trim holes in the fabric).

Tools for work:

• a sewing machine that will sew a thick fabric in several layers, it must be adjusted and thick needles installed;
• chalk for marking and centimeter tape;
• square and ruler;
• sharp and large scissors for cutting.

Project (drawings and dimensions)

A hammock is a very simple product, and does not require special skills in the field of cutting and sewing. This is a simple rectangle of fabric with slings (rope fasteners) for hanging.

The main thing is to choose the right size of a hammock so that everyone is comfortable in it. The length is calculated by the formula: height of the tallest family member + 60 cm.

Width for models without slats is 140-160 cm. For a hammock on slats, we need a canvas with a width: the length of the slats minus 7-10 cm.

Moroccan cocoon hammock

The simplest hammock is a cocoon without planks. It is good because it allows you to completely relax, it is impossible to fall out of it in a dream or when rocking, which is especially important for those who have it.

Its main drawback is that it is inconvenient to turn on it and it is difficult to get out of it. At the prepared canvas, it is necessary to process its edges with a hem seam along the entire perimeter.

After that, small loops are sewn to the smaller sides of the resulting rectangle with a step of no more than 20 cm.

Helpful advice! The size of the loops is made such that a cord can be threaded through them, on which a hammock will be hung. Strong and neat loops are obtained from dense braid or a luggage strap.

Very important fasten the loops well, so they are sewn in several lines. To hide the attachment points and make the edge of the hammock more dense, a dense and wide braid is sewn along the entire length.

We thread rope fasteners into the resulting loops - slings from a cord of at least 8 mm in diameter.

The easiest way to make a reliable suspension for a cocoon hammock:

• leave the end of the cord 70 cm long;
• after which we pass the main part of the rope into the first loop;
• set aside 70 cm on it, bend it, return to the second loop;
• you should get a large 70 cm loop of cord;
• repeat the procedure to the end, where we also leave 70 cm of rope;
• we tie long loops together, leaving about 10 cm;
• from this residue, we form a loop, which will be attached to the supports.

Hammock on slats

The model on the slats is not much more complicated. The size of the canvas is calculated in the same way as in the previous case.

The width may be less than for a Moroccan hammock (from 90 cm). To the length, if the wooden handle is covered with a canvas, and the slings are threaded through the eyelets, you must add 15 cm on each side to the hem.

The edges of the canvas are processed with a hem seam. After which it is attached to the slats.

You can do this in two ways:

1. Bend the edge about 15 cm, lay a double line at a distance of a little more than 1.5 diameter of the handle used. Stepping back from the resulting seam, the distance is slightly larger than the diameter of the eyelet, lay another double line. In the resulting dense area, closer to the edge of the hem, we insert the fittings for the loops in increments of 10-15 cm (slings will be threaded into them). The second edge is also processed;
2. If it is not possible to purchase eyelets, then loops made of dense fabric or a luggage belt are sewn to the edge of the canvas, of such a size that a bar can be freely threaded through them. It is worth doing them as often as possible in increments of 5-10 cm.

In general, the main part of the product is ready. Now you need to bring the straps into loops or a drawstring (a folded and stitched edge into which you can thread a string or, in our case, a wooden stick).

When fastening on hinges, it is worth pre-drilling holes under the slings, in increments of 7-10 cm. When marking, they are shifted so that they fall in the middle of the distance between the loops.

Slings are made of a cord that can withstand a load of 150-200 kg. It can be both natural and synthetic, it does not come into contact with the body.

For a model with loops, we measure a meter of rope from the end and thread it into the first hole from the edge. We make a loop a meter long, and again we wind the cord into the first hole.

Then we thread the rope into the second hole so that a stitch is obtained from the inside of the hammock. We repeat the procedure until the end of the bar.

Then all the resulting loops of the slings are carefully aligned and tied in such a way that the knot is in the middle of the wooden handle at a distance of 30-50 cm from it. It is very important to firmly fasten the free ends of the cord. A loop is formed from free loops after a common knot.

Note! For the model on the eyelets, the same workflow is followed, with the difference that the twine is pulled through the holes in the eyelets so that the loops pass through the upper side of the canvas.

How to weave a hammock

Another way to make a hammock with your own hands at home is to weave. This does not require deep knowledge of macrame, it will be enough to learn how to make a simple flat knot.

His scheme can be viewed on the Internet, it is very simple, and you can master it in five minutes.

For work we need:

• already familiar to us durable wooden planks;
• cord, preferably natural;
• drill.

Holes for slings are drilled in the slats with a step of 5-7 cm. After that, we hang ropes on them, cut into equal parts equal to 6 lengths of the hammock, so that the middle of each rope is on the wooden part.

And just in a checkerboard pattern we connect at an equal distance with a flat knot. To make all the cells the same, you can substitute a piece of a square-section beam between the knots, with a side equal to the size of the cell, as if tying it.

Thus, a mesh of the desired length is woven, which is fixed on the second bar. Slings and a loop are made in the same way as in fabric models.

Of course, the simplest models are described here. And there is always room for creativity. Craftswomen who are well acquainted with the macrame technique weave bright and “lace” hammocks from cords of different colors, decorating them with a fringe or openwork edge.

Also, the original hammock can be made with the skills of patchwork. For example, many housewives in this way give a second life to old jeans, which usually gather a lot of dust in the closets of any modern family. You can also weave a sitting hammock from an old metal hoop.

How to hang a hammock

Usually a hammock is mounted on trees at least 20 cm in diameter, standing at a distance of about three meters. It can also be hung, fixed at one end to any building, or on poles.

It should be remembered that the supports must be at least a meter deep and strong and stable.

But, sometimes there is no suitable place on the site, then a stand can come to the rescue. You can buy it at the store, but usually this design is not cheap. That is why many craftsmen take up the manufacture of the stand with their own hands.

At home, the easiest way to make it is from wood. To do this, you can use a thick board, at least 50 mm thick and at least 100 mm wide.

All we need:

• two beams for the bases of about 2.5 meters each;
• two beams for poles approximately 1.8 meters;
• two beams for transverse supports approximately 1.2 meters.

The poles themselves are attached with several bolts or self-tapping screws to the base at an angle of approximately 60 degrees. For greater stability of the structure, supports are attached to the ends of the base in specially prepared grooves.

A more complex frame can be welded from metal, similar to that used in garden swings.

Where to buy a hammock

Today, hammocks are quite popular, and they can be purchased at almost any outlet from the department of related products of the supermarket to the salon of specialized tourist equipment. And their prices can also vary greatly.

The simplest wicker model can cost from 600 rubles, and a design with a stand, a canopy and a mosquito net will cost more than 50 thousand rubles.

How to make a hammock with your own hands, see this video:

A hammock is strongly associated with a romantic getaway in unity with nature. As a relaxer after heavy loads of any kind - physical, intellectual, emotional - a hammock is comparable to expensive physiotherapy procedures or potent medicines. But resting in a hammock costs nothing and does not give side effects. Doctors, however, still do not recommend sleeping in a hammock all the time: its beneficial effect manifests itself after fatigue before. In modern conditions of life, it becomes necessary to have your own hammock for trips to the country or nature on weekends or for vacation.

Making a hammock with your own hands means not just achieving 3-4 times savings in money. And not only to get more pleasure, listening to the whisper of leaves in the creation of their own hands. By making a hammock yourself, you can quickly and easily acquire a lot of useful skills that will come in handy in many other cases.

Story

Europeans first saw a suspended piece of upholstered furniture for sleeping and relaxing among the Caribbean Indians; the natives called him hamoc. At that time, the islands of the Caribbean Sea were the same green hell as the current Amazon. The selva is teeming with all sorts of dangerous creatures and it is impossible to sleep on the ground or in a bed: during the night someone will definitely bite, sting or infect. And the livelihood in this seeming luxury comes from hard and dangerous work.

Hammocks caught the eye of members of the first expedition of Columbus. The Spaniards immediately appreciated the merits of hammocks as ship berths. It is impossible for our contemporaries to imagine the conditions under which the great discoveries of the past were made. Imagine a long voyage in rough seas for six months, or even 3 years, on a fragile little boat smaller than a river tram or a small fishing seiner, with a crew of 12-20 people and the same number of passengers on board. Impossible? The Nina, a caravel from Columbus' first flotilla, displaced 50 tons. She crossed the Atlantic twice, back and forth, at its widest point. Withstood a 10-point storm and brought back from Castile, in addition to her crew, the admiral of the ocean-sea with satellites, after the flagship Santa Maria crashed on the reefs. Also, by the way, not a cruise liner - as much as 200 tons. So, from the Spaniards, sailors of other countries adopted hammock beds, then the inhabitants of port cities, and after them all the others.

Varieties and features

Several types of hammocks are known; the main ones are shown in the photo. The discoverers of the New World saw mat hammocks hung on vines. Their modern modifications are known as Mexican hammock, pos. 1. It can be both woven and sewn from fabric, but never contains hard, rigid parts, except perhaps for an eye-ring for suspension. Wicker hammocks are generally more complicated and more expensive than sewn hammocks, but more hygienic, because. provide ventilation from all sides.

The main advantage of the Mexican hammock is simplicity. It can only be a piece of fabric + a pair of stretch ropes, see below. Other advantages are more of a native-nomadic plan: it can be carried with you in a shoulder bag or carried on a horse in an alforch bag. Nowadays, an employee of a paid beach can take a few pieces under his arm, quickly spread them and hang them up to newly arrived customers.

However, the Mexican hammock is, generally speaking, not perfect. In order for the person lying in it to turn from side to side, the cloth needs to be about 3 m long, and another 1.5-2 m for each suspension. The fabric consumption is excessive, there is also a lot of space for hanging. A Mexican hammock cannot be a double bed: the cut on the bed will need such a length that the cocoon, already quite tight, will curl up into a stuffy pipe. It is pleasant to relax in a Mexican hammock no more than 1.5-2 hours. Sailors of sailboats and shepherds-gauchos did not care: after a watch or a day's work on horseback from dawn to dusk, they would sleep like the dead and on a mattress of hedgehogs. But a modern city dweller may be interested in a Mexican hammock only for relatively short-term episodic use.

At pos. 2 hammocks… wrong, not Brazilian. Vietnamese, aka Malay. The natives of the extreme southeast of Asia invented the hammock independently of the Indians and for the same reasons, only the Europeans got to them much later. There are a lot of fish in those parts, fishing is developed, so it is quite natural that the original Vietnamese hammock is wicker. Fortunately, the material is always at hand - a variety of vines. The tropics of the Western Hemisphere are not rich in vines suitable for fine weaving.

A hammock made from a piece of a dilapidated fishing net or stems of heterogeneous mechanical properties required suspension from many sling branches and load distribution between them. Therefore, the Asians supplemented the cloth with cross-beams. It is more difficult to make and set up a hammock on traverses, but it is much more durable, more convenient than a Mexican one and can be double. In a hammock on traverses, you can bliss day by day with all the cells of your body, without experiencing, unless absolutely necessary, the desire to get up and walk.

Note: it can be easier and cheaper for a home craftsman with a craftswoman to make a Vietnamese hammock in amateur conditions than a Mexican one, if you focus not on repeating machine-factory technologies, but on manual rigging and marine practice. Of these, only the basics are required, and they are not at all as complicated as it is commonly believed, we will master them along the way.

The Brazilian hammock is shown in pos. 3. This is a modification of the Mexican hammock for people who are more civilized, demanding on amenities and technologically equipped. A Brazilian hammock can also be hung in a native way, on ropes, or, if you put a solid cross-beam into the drawstring straps, in full extension in width. For recreation, it is convenient no less than Vietnamese; the width can be up to 2 m. Practically - the entire width of the cut.

The convenience of a Brazilian hammock for all occasions is not given in vain - it is complex and expensive. Concentrated loads from suspension points “disperse” through the fabric more difficult than through the mesh, so they require a lot of suspension branches and drawstrings. And each one needs to be reinforced by putting a piece of braided sling into it, as well as into the edging of the cloth. Without reinforcement along the contour, the edges of the bed will soon sag.

As a result, on the wrong side (bottom side) of the cloth there are many sewing elements. Strength is not strength, but in order to at least hide them, the cloth has to be sewn double: 2 identical cuts are sewn along the short sides, the resulting short wide sleeve is turned inside out and the rest is sewn / stitched inside it, where necessary. According to the second method, more designed for skilled manual work, the long sides are first ground down, and the drawstrings are sewn into the wide armholes formed. Fabric consumption doubles this way and that without any, in general, the need. In general, making a Brazilian hammock at home makes sense only for an experienced seamstress who has a machine for a needle of at least No. 100, capable of piercing 3 layers of dense fabric with a sling 1.5 mm thick between them.

Lie or sit?

A Brazilian hammock of a reduced size and simplified design is nothing more than a soft hammock chair on a trapeze suspension, pos. 4. A hammock chair, or a hanging chair, can also be a semi-rigid frame or generally rigid; in this case, the suspension will fit the cradle pose. 5. But hanging chairs are a special class of furniture. How to make a hammock chair with approx. at 500 rubles, or hard from improvised materials, you can watch a couple of videos below, and for now we will deal with hammocks in which you can lie stretched out to your full height.

Video: do-it-yourself hammock chair

Video: how to make a hammock chair in 2 hours

Common to all

The complete hammock device is shown in fig. A thimble, for your information, is a somewhat reinforced loop of a cable or rope for hanging. Here you can already see, firstly, the parts are clearly redundant, these are suspensions. When dealing not with lianas, but with ropes made according to TU, it makes no sense to make so many suspension branches when making it yourself. It is especially bad for fans in suspension systems of many branches that it is very difficult to achieve their uniform tension during handicraft production, and a hammock with a suspension that is not properly covered will not allow you to rest properly. An exception is hammocks suspended from one solid cable loop, including slings that support the long sides of the panel. One of these structures will be discussed below.

Note: A rope is a twisted rope with a spiral twist. Rope - rope braided, cross or other strands with transverse transitions of the strands. With the same diameter, a rope and a cable made of the same material are significantly different in terms of mechanical and operational qualities. In general, the rope loses its strength more slowly during wear, and the rope is better able to withstand large and, especially, short-term loads. Further, if it is simply said “rope”, then in this case it does not matter whether the rope will pass there or the cable.

For the complete reliability of the hammock in its suspension system, 4 lines are enough for 150 kgf of constant and 300 kgf of instantaneous load each; these are clotheslines from 8 mm in diameter. 4 interconnected and mutually influencing lines can be tightened even without experience in half an hour, and 1.2 tf of permissible jerk will allow you to safely recall, on occasion, the scene between Jean-Paul Belmondo and Gina Plipala from the “Four Hands Game”: “I want you to master me now! Immediately! Right here on this dressing table! Why not skiing? Or standing in a hammock? So, perhaps, too much, but parents can not hurt their heads about a children's battle in a hammock holding 1.2 tf. If a suspension of 4 lines is optimally designed (see below), then if any 2 of all 8 branches (because suspensions 2) break at the same time, the panel will not dangerously warp in the worst case, but the hammock will never capsize.

The weakest points of suspension are braces. Each of them should keep the same 1.2 tf, but for a long time, because. braces 2 and the breakage of any of them means an accident. Therefore, for braces, it is preferable to take a rope with a diameter of 12 mm or more, and not synthetic, but cotton. Internal friction in it is many times greater than in slippery synthetics, and a sudden break on the domino principle is excluded: frayed, disheveled strands will attract attention to themselves before the remaining ones become unable to bear the load.

About fixing in place

The hammock should be hung so that without load, but with a mattress, blanket and pillows, the lowest point of its bed is at least 0.8 m from the ground / floor. The braces should deviate from the vertical within 45-75 degrees. if they go steeper, you will have to lie bent over and lift your legs. The braces are too gentle, according to the school rule of a parallelogram, they will be overloaded.

The brace is tied to the eye or thimble with a bed knot, on the left in fig. To the support is not very thick, about the size of an adult man's hand or thinner - with a faded knot, in the center. On a thick support, the retractable bayonet assembly, on the right, will be more reliable.

Note: if any of the knots here and below seem unreliable to you, tie, tighten and immediately try to give (dissolve). And the knot, covered under load, will keep, of course, no worse.

More about rigging

In addition to 5-6 simple knots, which we will get to know later, to make a hammock, you need to be able to fix the ends of the ropes from marking with a strapping - put marks on them. A simple brand will probably suffice for us (see the figure on the right). Self-tightening is more difficult to apply, it is designed more for rigid and / or slippery cables and ropes, mainly steel. From the edge of the brand to the end of the base rope must be at least 1 of its diameter; better - 1.5-2. Excellent rope marks suitable for a hammock are obtained from shoe laces or similar. They are durable, relatively easy to tighten, sit tight on the base and do not weaken over time.

Note: when tightening a simple brand, the first hose (coil) will come out weakened. To tighten it, the running end of the cord pulled into the loop is pulled out a little, and then tightened again, pulling up the root (initial) end. Do this 2-3 times, and the stamp will lie absolutely tightly. The intersection of the root and running ends of a correctly applied mark should fall approximately in the middle of its length.

Hammocks to choose from

Factory hammocks are most often made with a fan suspension of many lines. In industrial conditions, this is justified: the overspending of 20-30 m of rope is still more cost-effective than introducing into the cycle of operations for the manufacture of a suspension no less reliable, but not so material-intensive.

The fan suspension is not so useless - you can put a pillow on it. However, as mentioned above, it is difficult to evenly fit many branches on your own, and without this the hammock will be inconvenient. Manual operations for the manufacture of a simplified suspension are not difficult, but employees need to pay a salary for them, but not yourself. Based on this, at home it is preferable to do, in order of increasing complexity of work, hammocks of the following types:

• The simplest Mexican in haste from improvised materials, without any sewing and cutting work.
• Sewn with a panel on the eyelets.
• Sewn universal, for hanging in Mexican style and on traverses.
• Wicker mesh, without any decor, but practical.
• Braided using macrame technique.

About fabric and braid

The fabric for single-layer panels of embroidered hammocks requires dense and durable: technical, upholstery, canvas, denim, any coarse satin or twill weave. In the case of using technical or upholstery, you need to make sure that the warp threads go along the length of the panel. With dress and linen fabrics, this problem does not arise: the width of their pieces is less than the length of the hammock panel.

Rough fabrics are still rough to lie in a hammock without bedding, they are rarely bright and patterned. Therefore, the panels of the sewn hammocks described below can be made double (see above, about Brazilian hammocks) from softer fabrics. In this case, the underturns of the seams (see below) are sufficient single, not double. The work is almost not complicated, because. power seams in the products described below go only along the contour of the panel. But you still need to lay a simple trouser braid to reinforce the loaded seams: the weaving of the braid is designed so that it evenly distributes the load along the seam. The trouser tape is thin, and along with 2-3 layers of jeans or canvas, an ordinary household sewing machine will take it.

It doesn't get easier

With a short trip to the country, or, say, at a halt on a mushroom hunt, a hammock of the “it’s impossible” type will turn out from any suitable piece of fabric: sheets, blankets, bedspreads, covers, etc. Double bedding should be folded in half lengthwise. How the simplest hammock is made can be seen in fig. A bed of 1.8-1.9 m comes out of a sheet or blanket of ordinary length. This is enough for an adult of average height to relax after work, and children will generally have a paradise in a hammock. The duration of the production cycle is less than 10 minutes, including the choice of supports for suspension.

On eyelets

A hammock on grommets requires a minimum amount of sewing work for this class of products, but from noon or a day it will be necessary to wire the slings and tighten the suspension. The maximum width of the cloth is 0.9 m; length - up to 2.3 m. The length of the suspensions along the longitudinal axis is within 1/4-1/3 of the length of the panel. The design feature is that the entire sling system is a solid end (piece) of cotton rope.

Technological equipment, except for a sewing machine, is a simple slipway, a board with nails driven in at the edges. A 3-meter board is enough to make a hammock with a bed of 2 m. But, since it is much more difficult to fit short suspensions, it is better to find a board that is more authentic and make the suspensions close to the maximum length. The hammock will not become weaker from this, but it will be more convenient, only the cable will leave more.

The appearance and device of the hammock on the grommets are given in fig. The braid in the seams on the short sides needs to be wide, from 8 cm. In the seams of the backstage sleeves on the long sides, a braid of 3-4 cm is enough. In the middle of one of the long sides in the backstage seam, an armhole of 10-12 cm is left for tightening the cable.

Eyelets for curtains are unsuitable in this case: they are too weak and will soon rust in the open air. You need to take eyelets for truck awnings or sails. You can find them in special stores, at a cargo service station or in a yacht club. Pliers for crimping powerful eyelets are not always and everywhere available, so it’s better to first make sure that there are eyelets within reach, agree on the installation, and only then sew the panel.

If the hammock is hung by the eyelets, they are put on nails in the slipway. If the suspension is on self-made thimbles (see below), then the running end of the cable is simply circled around the nail. The cable is tightened as follows: armhole - half sleeve, extreme hole in the traverse, nail or eye, the next hole in the traverse - grommet, etc., until the entire suspension is carried out. Then - another extreme hole in the same traverse, a sleeve on the other long side, another suspension, other half sleeves, an exit to the armhole. The ends of the cable are connected with a benzel (pos. B in the figure) and the joint is tightened into the sleeve. The free ends of the rope must remain at least 5 cm long!

If the hammock is on the eyelets, then before tightening the slings near it, they are assembled into a tourniquet, imposing a brand. This must be done without removing the workpiece from the slipway. If it is supposed to be suspended on thimbles, then first the slings are brought into a bundle with a temporary brand, and the thimble is woven only after the suspensions are tightened.

Tightening is best done on weight, hanging a hammock with one eye or a loop of a tourniquet on a nail, hook, bough, etc., and loading the lower ring / loop with a load of 10-12 kg. traverse, then pick up (tighten so that it weakens) through the grommet conjugated tight. So that the fitting is not too long, and in general, so as not to get confused in it, pairs of lines are sorted out strictly in order, clockwise or counterclockwise. To eliminate the resulting distortions of the traverse, the cable is pulled in the sleeves. If you do not go astray, then the hammock will be perfectly fitted in 2-3 passes.

Universal

This is perhaps the most successful of home-made hammocks: it is economical in material, comfortable, strong and durable. Its prototype is a suspended berth from a complete set of military kungs. The bed of a universal hammock can be up to 2.5 m long and up to 1.4 m wide. Hanging in any way in this case is possible because the sleeves for hanging on the short sides will be reinforced at the edges with an embedded rope. If this hammock will be hung and / (or only) on a soft suspension (in this case, not at all Mexican), the length of the bed should be at least 2.2 m, and its width should not exceed 1.1 m. 1 in Fig.) are the minimum allowable.

Tailoring begins with sharpening the long sides, pos. 2, and puffs into the sleeves of ropes from 8 mm in diameter (pos. 2b). The drawstring for the rope is sewn with a double collar and braid, as in the previous one. case, pos. 2a. The ends of the ropes should not protrude beyond the edges of the cut, but they should not be more than 1-1.5 cm away from it either.

Having turned up the sleeves of the suspension on the short sides (pos. 3a) and stitching the lapels, places I (pos. 3 in the figure) are stitched with an envelope or mesh by hand, grabbing the ropes in the sleeves of the long sides, now bent with loops. You will have to sew with a gypsy needle, and the thread needs a harsh waxed or impregnated with PVA and dried. Of course, loosened before impregnation and during drying in free loops. It is easiest to impregnate the thread in the same way as in the manufacture of lampshades or Christmas decorations from threads.

Soft suspension

To hang a universal hammock without traverses, a brace rope is carried into the suspension sleeve and the panel is assembled into a bundle, temporarily grabbing it somehow. Then, on a brace, a gazebo knot is knitted with a rather large loop, pos. 4. Arbor knot is not tightened under any load. Next, insert a spacer (pos. 4a) from any suitable material into the knot loop and do the same on the other side of the panel. Everything, a hammock can be hung.

Suspension on traverses

For the manufacture of suspensions on traverses for this hammock, you will need 2 round wooden sticks with a diameter of 5 cm and a length of 3/4-4/5 of the width of the finished panel W. Pieces of shovels cuttings or one cutting of sufficient length sawn in half will work well. You also need to build a slipway from a pair of boards approx. 1.5 m, knocked down in a T-shape. A couple of nails are hammered into the leg T on its far edge along the axis at a distance of 5-10 cm, and the cuttings of the handle, which will be traverses, are fixed on the T stick with 2 more pairs of nails. Not tight, the traverses should move freely between the nails to their caps.

Further on one side of the traverse, at a distance of approx. 5 cm from its end, a double bayonet knot is knitted (point II and the bottom row in the figure), only both ends of the cable (from 8 mm in diameter) are left the same length, about 2 m each. A notch can be made under the knot, but in general a double bayonet is a “dead” knot, in which a smoothly sanded and soaped thick log-pillar rests on weight. Or a heavy torpedo.

The next step is to measure the ends of the suspension lines Λ1 and Λ2 (pos. 5). Its length, from the traverse to the far corner, is allowed at least 1 m. If the hammock is on the eyes, then they immediately thread Λ2 into the ring. Next step - longer the end Λ1 is passed into the hole of the hardwood adjustment bar 5a, then, optionally, into the eye (if any) and led out through the other hole of the bar. The distance between the holes in it is approx. 5 cm; other dimensions are not critical. Then, on the other edge of the traverse, each of the ends is knotted with a simple bayonet (see below, about weaving a hammock), and marks are made on the slings with a ballpoint pen in paragraph IV (pos. 5b). After that, the nodes on the left (according to the figure) end of the traverse are given away.

Now you need to remove the traverse and put a cloth on it, evenly picking it up. If the hammock is constantly suspended on the traverses, then it is advisable, having finally completed the suspension, to also draw an additional seam along the traverse to fix the folds. The fact is that if the traverses are wider than the panel and the suspension sleeve lies freely on the traverses, then the panel will always move to one side. And the folds form a kind of spring that holds the panel evenly. After that, simple bayonets are knitted again at the left end so that the marks stand in the same place.

Finally, they similarly make a suspension on the other edge of the cloth and fit the hammock on weight, as in the previous one. case. But with a huge difference in labor intensity: for tightening it is enough to move the adjusting bars. And in the future, they also regulate the slings. It is possible that during the initial adjustment of the lines it will be necessary to tie knot III 1-3 times, but a simple bayonet is given as easily as it is knitted. In conclusion, if the hammock is on thimbles, loops are braided on the tops of the suspension, see at the end. In this case, after adjusting the lines, you need to make marks on their bends so that the thimble does not “leave” to the side.

Loose ends

In node III, there are ends that cannot be used to decorate a hammock (see below). They can be grabbed with stamps to the appropriate ends of the lines. But it is better to leave up to 3 m long, turning into bays. If the hammock is hung on a frame with a top bar or, say, on trees with horizontal or gently sloping branches, then the free ends of the lines can be thrown over them and sway by pulling on the ropes.

Simplified version

The same suspension principle makes it possible to significantly simplify the hammock cloth if it is suspended only on traverses. A diagram of a simplified hammock on 4-sling suspensions with an adjusting bar is given in fig. But in this form, it is actually not very comfortable: the head either falls through or rests against the traverse, and the pillow crawls into the gap between it and the edge of the cloth. A possible way out is to put 5-6 ordinary eyelets for curtains, only stainless ones, on the short edges of the panel, and through them tightly fasten the edges to the traverses with a cord.

simple braided

Weave a net hammock across the cloth, i.e. along the long sides. For the base, you will need 2 traverses, the same as in the previous one. case, but 10-15 cm longer than the width of the cloth. At their ends, at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge, 3 holes are drilled side by side, or one oblong, for carrying slings from a cable from 10 mm. The carrier cable is carried out with one ring, fastened with a benzel, as for a hammock on the grommets, but without bends for additional suspension branches. Through the holes in the traverses, the carrying sling is passed, overflowing with a figure eight.

The next stage is to prepare a pair of racks with a height greater than the width of the panel and at a distance from each other greater than its length. The base (frame) is attached to the uprights, at least by wrapping the supporting slings with a cord across them, and they are pulled tight. The now hanging traverses are aligned according to the distance between them and vertically, tightening / loosening the lines in eights.

Next, a shuttle is prepared for a cord with a thickness of 4 mm. It will need 120-200 mm on the cloth, depending on the size of the hammock, so you will have to weave in rows - so much cord will not fit on the shuttle at once. Therefore, based on the size of the network loop diagonally approx. 7 cm, we count the number of rows of loops along the width of the cloth (so many pieces of cord will be needed), and multiply its length by 2.2, We wind the cord of the corresponding length on the shuttle, it will be enough for 1 row. The surplus will go to waste, because. extra knots scattered in the middle of the cloth will not give it a look.

Now we start weaving, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. To ensure the evenness of the loops, a round mandrel is used from a smoothly sanded shovel handle or something like that. An angular mandrel is not good, it will get stuck! The cloth is knitted with the simplest flat knots, pos. 3, the same ones on which the primitive hammock was hung. Nets are not knitted with such a knot, it is wide and it will be difficult to pull the net in the water. But for a hammock in this knot, its small thickness is good, when tightened it is less than 1.5 rope diameters.

When knitting, the knots are only tightened, so long as they do not hang out. They finally tighten everything at once, pulling the mandrel several times, this operation is called punching knots. The first loops are thrown onto the mandrel along its entire length, and the continuation of the row is knitted, pushing the mandrel halfway. When tightening the first and last loops, hold the free end of the cord with your hand.

Having knitted the cloth, the free ends of the cords are tied to the traverses with a simple bayonet, pos. 4-7. You can tie double bayonets, it won't be worse. Then they make 3-4 union hoses at each bayonet knot, pos. 8-10, they will create elastic links that ensure uniform tension of the mesh cells.

Now you need to decide what to do with the free ends of the cords. In order not to knit too much, they can be cut to size. Then stop knots are knitted at the ends, and the very tips are fluffed into tassels. It will turn out quite a pretty fringe.

It remains to make additional suspension branches, because. 2 "bare" load-bearing lines are few for reasons of reliability. This matter is solved simply: the additional ends of the rope, the same as the annular carrier sling, of diameter, are tied to the traverses with a double bayonet inside from the eights of the main sling close to them. Next, make a suspension as for a universal hammock. It also makes sense to turn the free ends into brushes, they will turn out to be 4 larger in the corners.

Macrame

It is not possible to consider macramé hammocks in detail here, and you can take on one only if you have mastered the technique of weaving macramé well. We will touch only on individual points, because. a hammock is not a path to the table, not a rug and not a handbag, not only in terms of the amount of work.

First of all, a macrame hammock is not woven across, like a net, but along, hanging one of the traverses horizontally. The cloth is removed, moving from top to bottom. An annular carrier sling is not necessary in this case - macrame weaving distributes the load on the cloth very well by itself.

Second - in general, 2 options for weaving are possible: in 2 threads, pos. A-B in the figure, and in one thread, pos. G-E. Weaving in 2 threads allows you to get by with a cord only 2.5-3 mm thick, which makes the hammock more comfortable, but also gives twice as many free ends, which are easier to get tangled in. Weaving in 1 thread (cord 4-5 mm) gives a large number of free ends at the edges, sufficient for a reliable suspension. The suspension of many thin lines harmonizes perfectly with the patterned cloth, and its tightness is not so terrifying compared to the overall laboriousness.

The main advantage of weaving in 1 thread is the ability to bring snakes 30-40 cm long along the edges - elastic links that perfectly equalize the tension of the panel. In such a hammock I would lie and lie, if it were not for beer, be it damned. More precisely, side physiological effects from its consumption. However, you can also weave “springs”-macrame using the 2-thread technique in the same way as bracelets are weaved, see fig. on right. Branches 1 and 4 for this take three times the length of the "spring" longer than branches 2 and 3.

Homemade thimble

A braided thimble for a hammock is a rather laborious element, but it allows you to do without purchased steel rings - eyelets. The rope in the thimble wears out much less than the one passed into the eye, and the suspension loop itself is much more reliable. The best material for braiding is also round shoe laces with a diameter of 1.5-3 mm. It will take 2-4 laces, but the quality of the thimble will not suffer from their joints. The step-by-step instructions for making a homemade hammock thimble are as follows (see also the figure):

Note 5: for the durability of the thimble, it will be very useful to shed it with hot wax or hold it for 5-10 minutes in PVA diluted with water two or three times and let it dry properly.

More about knots

All the nodes described above are not the only possible ones suitable for making a hammock. You can use other variants of nodes acc. destination, see, for example, the video:

Video: comfortable knots for a hammock

Supplement in conclusion

It is not so easy to find a place for a hammock, especially on an equipped and well-groomed site. In such a case, in Fig. - drawings of a stand for a hammock made of wood. The design is rather bulky and not quite mobile, but it will allow you not to risk fruit / ornamental trees, house walls, a fence and not start earthworks on the lawn. The installation height of the hooks is somewhere on the chest, and the distance between them is approx. 0.7 m less than the full length of a hammock with suspensions, but without braces. Eyes / thimbles in this case are thrown directly onto the hooks. And then - it's nice to lie around!

What a summer in the country without a hammock! Lying in it, you can just relax, or you can read a book, lie with your child. You can even take a nap outside! Now all the possibilities allow you to make several options for hammocks for giving yourself. So, with the help of this article, you will learn how to make a hammock with your own hands at home.

Hammock Options

They differ both in appearance and design features.

Frame hammocks. They are popular because they can be installed almost anywhere on the site and move, for example, in the shade or in the sun, to the gazebo during the rain. The designs of such hammocks can be both stationary and prefabricated. Both have their pluses and minuses. A stationary hammock is more reliable, but it is problematic to transport it anywhere, unlike a prefabricated structure. But prefabricated structures are made from lighter and more fragile materials for ease of assembly - disassembly, which also has its own nuances.

Hanging hammocks. The classic version that started it all. They are made, as a rule, from a synthetic mesh that does not allow moisture to pass through. Actual mosquito net in the evening, from blood-sucking insects. It needs 2 trees or 2 poles, standing close to each other, the base is fixed on them. Carabiners or tension elements can act as fasteners.

Armchair - hammock. An option that also has its fans and allows you to install it in a convenient place. Can be large for a large campaign. If you buy, then it will come out more expensive than its counterparts, especially with additional accessories. But it is also possible to make such a chair yourself.

Swing - hammock. With its unusual design, such a swing will also decorate any suburban area in addition to convenient use. Their design always leaves room for a flight of fancy and an original design solution, and the fulcrum can be either trees or poles or ceiling beams, the main thing is the possibility of free swaying. Although the options for hammocks are diverse, there is something that unites them - these are the general rules for using them, as well as safety precautions.

Here are the rules:

1. The main thing after the installation of any structure is a qualitative check of its reliability and stability. The required diameter of trees or poles is 20 cm. If, nevertheless, it rests on poles, then they must be dug into the ground by 1 meter. And do not use a heavily sagging and stretched cloth.
2. The distance between the supports is 3 meters, the height from the ground is 1.5 meters.
3. Support cables are needed with a diameter of 8 mm. If the design allows, then it is better to use eyelets, they are more reliable.
4. The cloth of the hammock must be tarpaulin or camouflage, i.e. dense fabric, it will last 2-3 years and protect you from falls.
5. If you want to weave a net for a hammock yourself, you need cotton threads that do not slip, tighten firmly and do not fray.

Original decor of hammocks

If you carefully read this publication, you will learn how to make the hammock itself. After installing or hanging the base and the safety test, you can already think about decorating the structure. You can come up with a canopy made of thick cloth or vice versa, made of mosquito nets. And it is possible from both, the fabric will protect from wind or scorching rays, and the mesh - from mosquitoes.

You can throw bright small pillows into the hammock that will add comfort to your rest. Tied ribbons will also slightly rustle in the wind, deepening your relaxation in nature.

We make our own hammock

1 option.

Wondering how to make a hammock yourself? Then the following instructions will come in handy. You need: thick fabric, ropes, sewing machine. The skills required are minimal.

We are preparing the base. To calculate the fabric, we take the height of a person and add 60 cm on both sides.

We cut off the irregularities, and from the ends we prepare a place for the drawstring. We make cuts 30 cm long after 18 cm.

Then we bend the edges by 10 cm and sew on a typewriter. We sew cuts with a zigzag.

Kuliska. They are located at the ends of the canvas. Ropes are pulled through them. The incisions are folded in 2 layers and sewn with a double stitch. The ends of the seams must be very securely fastened.

We create loops and mount the rope. Here we consider weaving the base of the hammock itself. We will thread the rope into ready-made drawstrings and leave 180 cm in stock, pull 1 meter through the cuts. In general, you will need almost 40 m of rope for manufacturing.

On each side we tie 2 ends of the rope and in the middle we pull out 4 loops, which we collect together and wrap with a rope. If you wrap it with high quality, then up to 10 m of ropes can go. Before connecting, the loops must be straightened and tied at the top of the fold. We begin the transverse winding no earlier than all the longitudinal loops are laid and the rope is fixed. Longitudinal loops are made of a thinner rope and its length is less than half a meter.

These loops are necessary for a more secure fixation of the ends of the winding. The remaining ends at the end of the work are crossed and tightly clamped. Then a rope is threaded through the fixing loop and the longitudinal part is wrapped around. When the carrier loop is processed, we connect both remaining ends of the rope and wrap them together. After 2 turns, we tightly tie all the remaining ends.

Hammock installation. This can be done between 2 trees, poles, buildings, or specially installed racks. The main thing is to fix it securely.

Construction decoration. Pillows for a hammock are just as easy to make yourself by stuffing them with holofiber. The colors of the pillow fabric can be chosen both to match the hammock cloth, and in contrast, it will be even more preferable.

Option 2.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a hammock swing, then the second option for making this little thing will also be interesting. Pay attention to the simple version of making a hammock with your own hands.

You will need the following materials for this:

• dense fabric like tarpaulin 2.5 m.
• eyelets 20 pieces, and a tool for their installation.
• rope 35 m with a diameter of 6 mm.
• metal rings 2 pcs.
• drill with a 12 mm drill.
• bars 2 pieces of hard wood measuring 30x50cm. The long side should correspond to the width of the future hammock.
• sewing machine.

Progress:

We are preparing the base. From the fabric we measure and cut off a piece 2.7 meters long. If the hammock is suspended under the roof, then you can not give extra footage to get wet. If, on the contrary, it will be suspended in an open area, be sure to learn the resistance of the fabric to getting wet.

We fold all the edges and sew with a machine. The hem is approximately 6 cm. For convenience, you can first go through the fold with an iron, tuck it again and iron it again.

Please note that the folded edges should be from the inside of the hammock. If there is an edge along the longitudinal lines of the canvas, then they do not need to be hemmed so as not to narrow the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future product.

Insert eyelets. First, with chalk, we mark their places on the fabric. From each end it is necessary to insert 11 pieces and at an equal distance from each other.

Then we cut holes in the marked places, it is possible with an uneven edge, but with the correct dimensions.

Bar preparation. They need to make holes for the ropes. And you need bars so that the hammock does not collapse under your weight, but remains stretched across.

We took the length of the bars to the width of the canvas. And the holes in the bars will exactly match the location of the eyelets on the fabric. The thickness of the bars is needed at least 25 cm, and the width can vary from 50 to 120 cm. We sand and lachim the prepared bars.

Installing a hammock. We insert the slings, this can be done both on a special frame and without it. We hang a metal ring on the hook, lay the canvas on the floor and put something heavy on it.

We first pass the slings into the grommet, then into the hole in the bar, then into the metal ring and return the sling back. After all the ends of the ropes are connected. You can braid a metal ring with these ends of the lines.

The same actions are on the other end of the hammock. Then we hang it on prepared supports.

Homemade hammock stand

With the help of the photos that are in this article, you will be able to make a hammock with your own hands. However, it is worth noting that not every yard has two conveniently located trees! In this case, a special stand for a hammock, which you can make yourself, will help you.

1. It can be put in the morning in one place, in the evening in another.
2. At the cost of its parts, it will come out to you cheaper than the purchased finished one.
3. Durable and beautiful.

To create it you will need:

• wooden beams 80x80.
• board 100x30.
• nuts, studs, washers for fasteners.
• drill, circular saw, grinder.
• wood varnish or stain.
• hooks (to fix the canvas).
• On the bottom we will put bars of 3 meters, across - 1.5 meters each, and from the sides - beams of 2 meters and 2 stops of 1.45 meters each.

First, we make a jib - the side part of the rack, to which we will attach the hammock with hooks. It is necessary to firmly fasten the stop and the beam between each other, and then cut it off at the bottom so as to get a sheer, but stable structure with a collapse of at least four meters at the top.

These side parts are installed and fixed vertically between two longitudinal bars. They are mirrored to each other.

The crossbar is 2 cut boards of 1.3 and 1.5 m, one above the other, for better stability.

Now we fasten the longitudinal bars and crossbars (we retreat 60 cm from each edge).

You still need to sand, nail the entire structure, after that it remains only to fix the canvas in place.

2 frame model

In order to build a homemade hammock with your own hands, you will need a frame that you can make yourself. Take all the same materials as in the previous version. Now we will make a design, a little different, but also quite capable.

Here, the jib is made differently, and it will have such a convenient element as a handle, for which it will be convenient to rise from a lying position.

So choose which option will delight you and your guests in the country.

A video master class on making a hammock with a detailed description and instructions has also been prepared for your attention. Everything is very clear, it remains to wish you a pleasant stay in a country house, in a hammock made by yourself or its modification!

A good rest is, first of all, an opportunity to feel comfortable, well, at least for a while, not to think about the essentials and the little things that distract you everywhere, everywhere and all the time. And this means that all these little things should be immediately foreseen and eliminated, even before they manifest themselves. Let's say you decide to relax in your summer cottage, in a hammock, what could be easier and more enjoyable!? So no, then the distance between the trees is not something to tie up a hammock, then the sun beats in the face, or vice versa, it is not enough. In general, a trifle, but so boring and annoying that it may well ruin your day off. That is why we want to offer you one of the options that will become universal - this is a stand or you can say a stand for a hammock. Its benefits are obvious. It is mobile, quite light, will keep the bark of your trees from damage, in fact, a worthwhile device. It is about this option, about making a stand for a hammock with our own hands, that we will talk about in our article.

In total, 3 options will be given, all of them are similar and akin to each other in their own way. Which one to stop is up to you. We will only say that all of them do not require significant effort during assembly, are made from affordable materials and are quite practical.

Do-it-yourself hammock stand 1 option

So, the first option from you will require wooden bars, studs, nuts, washers, a grinder, a hacksaw or a circular saw, a stain, a drill, hooks and your skillful hands. Take a look at the drawing, it will be the starting point.

Actually all the dimensions for the bars can be seen in the drawing. Bar section 80*80. You will also need a board, 100 * 30.
Now we proceed directly to the manufacture of the rack. We measure, cut, drill, assemble, twist.

The last operations will be grinding, it’s good if you have a machine for this, and painting with stain and varnish.

All that is left now is to put on a hammock and enjoy the rest under the bosoms of nature.

Do-it-yourself hammock stand Option 2

The second option will require approximately the same belongings and materials from you. The same beam, the same studs, except that the overall design of the hammock will be somewhat different. Also take a look at the drawing...

All sizes can be taken from him. We also process parts and fasten together. Fundamentally, of the differences, only a different design, that's all.

This is how the main parts fit together...

The finished hammock can also be stained and varnished.

A leg is made on one jib to make it more convenient to lie down in a hammock.

Do-it-yourself hammock stand option 3

The third option is nothing more than a special case of the previous two. The main difference is that it uses braces to prevent the hammock from swinging to the sides, which will make it somewhat more stable. For these jibs, a board 50 * 100 is used. But you can find out all the other sizes of the parts used from the table.

And here is the drawing itself - a sketch

As a result, a hammock stand is assembled from the parts using fasteners (studs, nuts, self-tapping screws).

Summarizing the manufacture of a hammock stand with your own hands ...

In the manufacture of racks for a hammock, the most important thing is to decide which option you will like. In principle, they are all functional and vital, except that they differ somewhat in appearance. In addition, I would like to say about the studs. Their use here is fully justified. The thing is that the tree can dry out over time, or push through. So you can always twist the studs, and thereby rehabilitate the rigidity of your hammock stand.
Well, let alone the fact that such a stand made by yourself will cost you much cheaper than store options, which are also found by the way, you can not mention this.

Projects of frame houses for self-assembly:

free drawings for DIY

Home DIY Hammock stand

There are many ways to equip recreational areas on a country site for every taste, but there is an option that everyone will like - this is a hammock.

The main question when placing a hammock is how and where to fix it? The easiest traditional way is to fasten with ropes to nearby trees, but it is only feasible if there are enough strong suitable trees on your site and they are located in the place where you planned to arrange a recreation area with a hammock. Unfortunately, suitable trees are the exception rather than the rule, especially if the site is at the beginning of development.

Fortunately, there is a successful universal solution for any site - this is hammock stand. Especially since make your own wooden hammock stand very simple and for everyone. Such hammock stand will successfully fit into the landscape of the site and is suitable for location anywhere: On the lawn, for comfortable sunbathing, in the refreshing shade of the garden on a hot day, on the terrace or in the gazebo on a rainy day, and in any other place, since the hammock stand is mobile and can be moved to where it is needed now.

Introducing free drawings for making a DIY hammock stand.

The stand has a minimum of parts and is easy to assemble.

For assembly, it is enough, a drill, a drill for 6 and 8 mm, a spanner wrench for stud nuts, a hacksaw for wood, a 3m tape measure and a hammer. The sequence of assembly is indicated according to the sequence of pictures on the site. All racks and stops are attached to studs and nuts with washers, supports to the frame, from below to nails. Before screwing the hook, drill a hole under it with a 6mm drill bit. If necessary, the entire board can be replaced with a 10x10cm beam.

Materials:
A - 2pcs 15x5cm section - 215cm length - frame
B - 2pcs 10x5cm section - 95cm length - supports
C - 2pcs 10x5cm section - 122cm length - inclined parts of the frame
D - 2pcs 10x5cm section - 33cm length - stops
E - 2pcs 10mm section - 13cm length - hooks
F - 2pcs 6mm section - 35cm length - studs, 4 nuts, 4 washers
G - 12pcs 4mm section - 12cm length - nails
H - 4pcs 8mm section - 17cm length - studs, 8 nuts, 4 washers