Chopper bicycle made of wood drawings. What is a chopper, or how to make a bicycle with your own hands? Main features, advantages and disadvantages of a chopper bike
In How to build a chopper with your own hands. Part 2.
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This time we will deal with the fork. I will tell you about a simple and affordable technology for turning a regular rigid fork into a high double-crown chopper fork.
Let's start with cutting:
1.
Don't rush to cut off the remaining feathers from the head tube!
Next, we saw the feathers over the vibration break mounts. Different parts of the feathers will have different purposes.
2.
Extend the fork feathers to the desired length. The diameter of the pipes approximately coincides with the diameter of the feathers. For connection we use bushes and welding rivets. This place should not just be cooked end to end.
3.
Now we fit the curved pieces of feathers to the legs of the fork like this:
4.
You can use any other trimmings, but we use the donor completely.
All the parts are assembled like this
5.
Please note that the pieces of feathers are joined to the steering column along a plane - to their own remains on the steering tube. Since the section of the feathers is not round, the pipes will slightly mismatch when joining, but this is easy to fix by slightly flattening the pieces of feathers in the desired direction.
It's difficult to do without cracks. This is perhaps the most difficult operation in building a bicycle - accurately fitting several parts at once, but the situation is saved by thick-walled pipes, as well as this technology itself, which allows for unique “adjustments” of the position of the workpieces.
6.
Before fixing everything for welding, it is necessary to calculate the geometry of the fork. To do this, you can simply draw the front part of the bicycle on the center lines in any drawing editor and use it to measure the fork shoulder, which will need to be maintained when installing the fork parts. The theory of controllability of two-wheeled vehicles is not difficult to find on the Internet, here I am only talking about the specifics for our case. In order for our chopper to steer as easily as a regular bicycle, we need to leave the trail unchanged - it should not exceed 80 mm. When the fork is tilted, the trail increases, the effect of “collapsing” of the steering wheel begins, so you need to increase the fork shoulder. In conventional forks, the shoulder is created by bending the stays; for a straight chopper fork this is unacceptable. Therefore, usually the fork stays are moved forward due to the crowns (traverse) of a triangular shape (this is exactly the lower one we made from the upper curved parts of the fork), but this is usually not enough, so the fork stays themselves are made non-parallel to the steering column, leaning even more forward. This can be clearly seen in the photo of the bike from the side. On the slipway, the head tube is horizontal, the fork dropouts are clamped above the slipway at a height equal to the calculated fork shoulder, and the stays themselves go at a certain angle to the slipway - well, how it turned out. Due to the fact that the traverse is connected to the steering column along a plane, this angle does not in any way affect the fit of the parts.
7.
You need to weld all the parts at once; they won’t come together separately, so maximum attention to fixation! The length of the feathers should be chosen with some margin relative to the height of the steering column
8.
Here is a properly welded fork
9.
And - the second spectacular operation - the “marriage” of the frame and fork
10.
Now you can understand what it will look like and whether we made a mistake somewhere with the geometry. But you can’t get on this bike yet! The upper crown (traverse) of the fork has not yet been made, and without it a fork of this length will not have the necessary rigidity. Next time we’ll talk about how to make it, as well as simple alternative options for making a fork from scratch (what if the donor doesn’t have one or is it crooked?)
Choppers are very stylish motorcycles that are preferred by cool bikers. It is motorcycles of this class that bearded men in leather jackets ride around.
In the mid-60s of the last century, two fellow company leaders from the USA came up with the idea of creating a bicycle that, in style and geometry, would resemble a chopper motorcycle, so that you would not want to drive it, but to roll it slowly and enjoy the attention of ordinary passers-by.
This is approximately how the first chopper bicycle in the history of the bicycle industry appeared.
Chopper history
The history of these extravagant bicycles dates back to 1936.
Then the company, which is very popular today, Schwinn, introduced the world to a completely new class of bicycles - cruisers. Their geometry was very different from the geometry of the great bikes of their contemporaries.
Such bicycles were not suitable, and that was not what they were invented for.
Some time later, in the spring of 1950, when bicycle customization in the USA was in full bloom, the first models of chopper motorcycles saw the light of day.
They looked so cool that they wanted to be like real bikers and customized their bikes. They modified them, added backrests to them, trimmed and shortened the rear ones, and changed the wheels.
Bicycles and scooters
When one of the designers at Schwinn saw ordinary enthusiasts, he immediately understood what kind of bicycles people needed now.
He created a prototype that was received very coldly by the big bosses, but thanks to the persistence of designer Al Fritz, the first chopper bicycle rolled off the assembly line in June 1963.
No one expected such success. Bicycle choppers have become a real bomb among lovers of outrageous cycling. Thousands of models were sold in the first month alone. Schwinn expanded production of these bicycles, and a new era began in the bicycle industry.
But ordinary enthusiasts could not be stopped. Despite the fact that large companies have already taken up the creation of bicycle choppers, amateurs have not stopped.
Cyclists united in clubs and periodically organized meetings at which they showed each other and others real works of art, only in the world of bicycles.
Features of bike choppers
Bike choppers look more like motorcycles than bicycles. Some models have additional accessories, which makes these bikes even closer to their older motorcycle brothers.
You might think that this bike was created more to shock others than for a comfortable ride. Yes and no. Although the geometry of the chopper frame differs significantly from classic bicycles, riding it is very comfortable and not at all difficult.
The first thing that catches your eye is the low, long fork and steering wheel. Because of this, the cyclist's position changes greatly, and along with it the perception of the surroundings changes. Indeed, when you ride a bike chopper, the road, passers-by and other cyclists are perceived completely differently.
The handling of such a bike is slightly reduced, but with experience this ceases to be a serious problem, because there is no desire to show driving master classes on such a bike.
Such bikes are very expensive and can cost more than 120 thousand rubles. But those for whom style is more important will not regret that kind of money.
Cons of choppers
Despite the unique appearance and comfortable fit, bicycle choppers have a number of disadvantages, which are very serious for some cities.
The first is cross-country ability. Due to the long wheelbase, long fork and steering wheel, the small one on the chopper makes it almost impossible to storm even ordinary curbs and curbs.
The cyclist's position deprives him of the ability to transfer his body weight between the wheels. You won't even be able to pull out the steering wheel to lift the front wheel. You can ride choppers with maximum comfort only in large cities with an abundance of bike paths.
The next disadvantage is its large dimensions and weight.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that most cycling enthusiasts live in apartments of multi-storey buildings. Bicycle choppers are very inconvenient to carry in your hands, and even more so to store it at home. Although, this will not be a problem for people living in cottages or having a garage.
The high price of even classic choppers can scare off many potential buyers. Even the most budget chopper costs quite well.
Summarize
Choppers are very stylish bikes. Some models even predate the prototypes of modern mountain bikes.
Ride them. Sitting behind the wheel of a chopper bike you experience real ecstasy. No stress, just the pleasure of a leisurely and comfortable ride.
These bikes owe their popularity to the motorcycles of the same name. In Russia, the biker movement is still not very developed, so chopper bicycles are not as popular as in America. In addition, they have a number of disadvantages, which are especially acute in many Russian cities.
From this instruction you will learn how to make a chopper bicycle with your own hands and at a very inexpensive price.
When assembling the homemade chopper, I tried to use as many components from old bicycles and unnecessary materials as possible.
I used an old 25-year-old Wisp Raleigh women's racing bike as the basis for my homemade chopper. I ended up turning it into a pretty nice cruiser.
What you will need to assemble a homemade chopper:
- Donor bike.
- Welding machine.
I used a Clarke 105EN welder. - Steel pipes for the fork.
Must be strong enough not to bend under heavy loads. - Steel pipes to extend the frame after it has been cut.
It is easier to weld two pipes of different diameters than two pipes of the same diameter, and in addition, a structure made from pipes of the same diameter is less durable. Therefore, the diameter of the pipes should be either slightly smaller than the frame pipes (so that they can be inserted inside the cut pipes), or larger (so that the frame pipes can be inserted into them). Choose pipes of the same diameter only if you are a professional welder. - Several sheets of steel.
I used 1.4mm thick steel sheets, which worked perfectly for the cruiser plates. - New chains.
Once the frame size is increased, a much larger chain will be required. Buy two inexpensive chains and connect them together. - Pipe bending machine.
This is useful if you want to significantly change the angles of the frame without cutting the extension tubes at an angle.
So, let's get to work. Let's start assembling the chopper by making the fork.
Step 2: Making the chopper fork.
First we need to get a suitable fork.
First you need:
- Dismantle the front part of the bicycle - remove the handlebars, stem, steering column and unscrew the fork.
- Position the bike so that the steering column is at the optimal height when riding. Don't worry about the angles at this stage. Measure the required fork length.
As you can see from the photo, I mounted the bike on a bench at approximately the desired height and measured the distance from the top of the steering column to the front wheel axle. It turned out to be about 1.22 meters. Decent size - we should have a long bike.
I was lucky - I found where I could buy good pipes - I bought a steel pipe 2.44 meters long for only 4 dollars. - Then use an angle grinder to cut the pipe in half. Next, place two pipes vertically and grind their ends with a grinder so that they are the same size (see photo above).
Step 3: Making the fork dropouts.
At this stage, the fork for our homemade chopper consists of only two tubes. In this state there is no way to install a wheel on it, so we have to make a couple of dropouts.
The photo above shows what we should get.
The fork dropouts must be durable. To make them, I used several steel plates about 3 mm thick, which fit perfectly.
Place the dropouts from the bike fork onto the steel plate as shown in the photo above. Mark the contours along which you can then cut out the dropouts for the chopper fork.
Using an angle grinder, cut two dropout blanks from steel.
Since an angle grinder (shown in the photo above) does not allow you to cut parts with the required accuracy, the fork dropouts will vary slightly in size. I clamped the fork dropouts in a vise and used a sander to smooth out the edges.
The photo shows the dropouts after sanding. The smoother the surface, the better the contact with the wheel.
Clamp the two pieces together as shown in the photo above and cut out the sockets for the axles. Using this method, you will be confident that you will be able to cut two identical sockets using an angle grinder. Take your time - don't cut the socket too big so that your chopper wheel won't pop out of the dropouts. It is necessary to machine a socket of such a size that the wheel axle fits snugly enough in it. Gradually adjust the wheel axle to the socket until it fits perfectly. You need to achieve an exact match without play, as I did (look at the photos below).
Next, you should weld the dropouts to the fork. To hold the dropout in the fork, I used a magnetic holder. When I welded the dropouts I made a mistake - I placed them right in the center of the pipe when they should have been welded closer to one of the edges. I only noticed my mistake during a test ride when the wheel spokes started scraping against the inside of the fork tube. Luckily I had another wheel that fit better, but in any case, take into account my mistake.
Lightly weld the dropouts to the fork as shown in the photo above. Check that they are installed correctly. Once you are sure everything is good, weld the dropouts securely. The time previously spent on making smooth edges should now pay off handsomely.
Step 4: Making the top for the fork.
So, we already have a fork in the form of two pipes with dropouts welded to them.
To equip the upper part of the fork with threads, we need several nuts, bolts and washers. I bought a pack of M10 bolts, nuts and some cheap M10 size washers (10mm diameter). This kit is very inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store.
Assemble the bolt, washer and nut. Weld each face of the nut to the washer.
Unscrew the bolt until only the nut with the welded washer remains.
Finally, weld the washer to the nut in the manner shown in the photo above. Now you have a strong enough mount on the top of the fork that we can screw the bolt into.
Step 5: DIY chopper fork (first stage of manufacturing).
Let's summarize - we have two pipes with welded dropouts on one side and a welded nut on the other side.
We continue making a fork for a homemade cruiser.
Cut the fork legs off an old bicycle. Try to make the base as flat as possible.
Using a piece of cardboard as a template, draw a semicircle around the new fork tubes as shown in the photo above. Trace the crown shape for the new fork with a marker. Using an angle grinder, cut the crown along the outlined outline. Take your time - it is very important to achieve the most correct form.
Attach the wheel to the dropouts. This will allow you to set the required fork width. Next, place the stem with crown between the fork tubes. If you did everything carefully in the previous stages, then the rod with the crown will fall exactly into place. Using another piece of cardboard, mark and cut three holes through which the three pipes will pass. This will give us a cardboard template that we will use to make the base plate and top plate. Trim the cardboard to a nice, neat shape.
We make the base plate. Using a cardboard template, cut out a plate from sheet steel. For this purpose, I used a sheet of steel 1.4 mm thick, on which I marked the two outer holes (through which the fork legs go). Using an angle grinder, cut the steel sheet as shown in the photo above to create a base plate. Weld the base plate to the fork crown. Work carefully, try not to get any particles of molten metal on the bearing race!
Next we have to do the takeaway. You can simply cut off the top of the existing stem. I decided to make the stem from scratch, since I already had a steel pipe that perfectly matched the inner diameter of the fork stem.
Using an angle grinder, cut one end of the pipe at a 45 degree angle as shown in the photo above.
Shorten the pipe as shown in the photo above to fit the rod bolt and wedge. That's it, making a homemade takeaway is finished. You can skip these steps if you simply cut the top off the existing stem.
Install the new stem onto the fork stem as shown in the photo above. Once again, place the stem and crown between the fork legs. Get someone to help you keep everything together. I simply secured all the components with a belt. The top steering column nuts should be approximately one inch below the top of the fork.
If you did everything correctly and centered the base plate well, then weld it to the fork.
Step 6: DIY chopper fork (second stage of production).
So, we have two fork tubes welded to the stem and crown. Next we need to make a top plate with which we will connect everything together.
To cut the required shape from a sheet of steel, we will need a previously made cardboard template. Mark the centers of the two fork legs and the stem bolt on a piece of steel. Since I was using 10mm bolts, I drilled a 15mm hole in the center of the fork and a hole about 10mm in diameter for the stem bolt. It doesn't matter that the diameter of the hole is larger than the diameter of the bolts, since we will still use washers during assembly.
Drilled top plate.
A plate bolted to the top of the fork. Ignore the clamp that holds the bolt in place. We'll talk about him later.
So - the fork is ready. The tubes are welded to the base plate, which in turn is welded to the fork crown. We fabricated the top plate and secured it securely with bolts.
Homemade chopper with a fork installed. The fork looks good, but in order for the bike to be rideable, we will have to seriously modify the frame, which we will do in the next step.
Step 7: DIY chopper frame (first stage of assembly).
First, think carefully about what you are going to do with the frame. For a long time I couldn’t decide what I could turn my frame into, but in the end I got a good frame for a chopper.
Frame before cutting (upside down).
After trimming, the bottom bracket is closer to the front of the bike. Next we need to lengthen the frame.
The photo above shows it after trimming. There's no turning back now. I want to keep the dual top tube which will look great on a custom chopper. So I cut it as close to the rear hub as possible.
The next step is to make a mock-up of the new frame design. It is very important to install the wheels to measure the required frame height. To create this mockup, I propped up the carriage and extended the frame using some thin pipes. I noticed that the double top tube was too low, so to get the saddle to the correct height I had to bend the top tube a bit. If you accidentally break the top tube, for example by splitting it at a weld, you will have to use welding to repair it. I actually accidentally broke the frame and solved the problem by welding.
I was completely happy with the shape and design of the new frame, so the next step was to extend the frame by installing two steel tubes between the bottom bracket and the two tubes running down from the seat tube.
To cut the two pipes correctly, I had to use the measurements from the layout. Since the angle of the down tube was changed, a small bend had to be created near the bottom bracket. To do this I had to use a pipe bending machine. The photo above clearly shows why the bend was needed.
At this stage the seat tube is not attached to anything - it is just dangling. That’s what we’ll do next—we’ll secure its lower part.
Using a piece of cardboard as a template, I made a plate from a sheet of steel that I placed under the seat tube and welded the plate to the top of the horizontal tubes. In this way I increased the strength of the connection between the two new pipes and the rear pipes. I then welded the seat tube to the plate.
Now let's turn our attention to the top tube. Again, the top tube is just dangling - it's not attached to anything yet.
I made another plate from a sheet of steel. It's not shown in the photo, but I used an angle grinder to make a socket in the seat tube, which I inserted a steel plate into and then I welded it to the seat tube. In this way I increased the strength of the connection and reduced the load on the weld. I then welded the top two pipes to the steel plate.
Step 8: DIY chopper frame (second stage of assembly).
The next step is to attach another steel pipe between the bottom bracket and the top tube. This will change the placement of the seat tube, which is currently towards the rear of the frame.
The photo above shows how I used a cardboard template to make a plate from a sheet of steel and welded it to a new steel pipe. It only took a few attempts to get the angle right, so try to weld only lightly, so that in the future, if something happens, it will be easier to break, grind and re-weld.
Determine the correct length of the pipe as accurately as possible so that it does not touch the carriage axle if it is too long. Also make sure that the tube fits into the carriage, but not too deep.
Fully welded frame for a homemade chopper.
Step 9: Making the chopper saddle.
I'm going to take full advantage of having a double top tube and install a saddle on it.
The saddle will be a simple structure made of boards, foam and leather.
I bolted the two boards together and drilled holes in the wood to the plate below. I secured the saddle well with bolts and nuts.
Using a heavy-duty staple gun, I attached the foam to the wood.
Using a stapler I attached the leather to the saddle.
Step 10: DIY chopper steering wheel.
The next step is to install the steering wheel.
You can install the steering wheel in three different ways:
- Use existing steering wheel.
In my case it was, which was not suitable for installation on a chopper. - Make your own steering wheel.
If you have steel pipes, you can make the handlebars using a pipe bending machine or by cutting and welding the pipes to the desired shape. - Use a different steering wheel.
I found some old steering wheels that I decided to use.
First we need to make a clamp.
I used a removable lock from a donor saddle.
The photo above shows the saddle mount mounted on the handlebars. It turned out pretty good, so we'll use this design.
We weld the seat mounting clamps to the top plate.
Weld the clamp from the saddle to the top plate and install the handlebar into the mount.
Now we have a fully adjustable handlebar mount.
Step 11: Brakes for your homemade chopper.
If you're going to use the same wheels that came with the bike, you shouldn't have any problems at this point.
I wasn't happy with the 27-inch wheels that came with the bike, so I decided to change them to more stable 26-inch wheels for the . In doing so, I had to change the brake suspension a little.
Always cover with a wet cloth while welding to prevent damage from the welding machine.
I calculated where to install the caliper brake and welded a plate onto the rear triangle seatstays. Please note that the mounting hole is not centered due to errors in the sizing of my frame.
Before final welding, check that the clamp brake is installed correctly and is operating properly.
Welded plate and installed clamp brake.
I used a spare brake lever that I took from another bike.
Step 12: Chopper assembly and testing.
Assemble the bike and take it for a test ride.
I decided to abandon the existing system and turn the bike into a .
I bought a single speed adapter online for $24 to simply replace the existing shift system.
Since the bike was now much longer, I had to buy two inexpensive chains (two dollars each) and connect them together.
Photo of a homemade chopper.
Step 13: Completing the chopper assembly.
Disassemble the bike. Use a grinder and a sanding disc to clean the bike of weld spatter and drips.
Paint the frame and fork. Be careful when doing this - protect the bearing rings and all threaded areas from paint. To avoid paint runs, apply paint in several thin layers.
Step 14: Additional changes to the chopper design.
I was getting a little bored with the bike so I decided to make some changes.
I took the bike apart and cut off the rear end.
Step 15: Align the back.
I cut off the back end of a small mountain bike.
It was from a dual suspension bike, so I used an angle grinder to sand down the excess frame parts.
Step 16: Install the Lower Extension Pipes.
I cut two pipes and welded them to extend the frame.
Step 17: The homemade chopper is ready.
I welded two more long pipes on top. Then I painted and assembled the bike.
The rear wheel now has a coaster brake so I no longer need the old rear brake, cables and levers.
I hope you found this DIY chopper assembly tutorial helpful!
Task 1 of 15
1 .
Are the Rules broken in the situations depicted?
Right
f) tow bicycles;
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
d) while driving, hold on to another vehicle;
f) tow bicycles;
Task 2 of 15
2 .
Which cyclist doesn't break the rules?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
b) move on highways and roads for cars, as well as on the roadway if there is a bicycle path nearby;
Task 3 of 15
3 .
Who should give way?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Task 4 of 15
4 .
What loads is a cyclist allowed to carry?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
22. Cargo transportation
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.4. A cyclist may only carry such loads that do not interfere with the operation of the bicycle and do not create obstacles for other road users.
22. Cargo transportation
22.3. Transportation of cargo is permitted provided that it:
b) does not interfere with the stability of the vehicle and does not complicate its control;
Task 5 of 15
5 .
Which cyclists violate the Rules when transporting passengers?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
e) carry passengers on a bicycle (except for children under 7 years old, transported on an additional seat equipped with securely fastened footrests);
Task 6 of 15
6 .
In what order will vehicles pass through the intersection?
Right
16. Driving through intersections
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.12. At the intersection of equivalent roads, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to vehicles approaching from the right.
Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves. At any unregulated intersection, a tram, regardless of the direction of its further movement, has an advantage over non-rail vehicles approaching it along an equivalent road.16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.Task 7 of 15
7 .
Riding bicycles on sidewalks and pedestrian paths:
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.6. A cyclist is prohibited from:
c) move on sidewalks and pedestrian paths (except for children under 7 years old on children's bicycles under the supervision of adults);
Task 8 of 15
8 .
Who has the right of way when crossing a bike path?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.5. If a bicycle lane crosses a road outside an intersection, cyclists must give way to other vehicles traveling on the road.
Task 9 of 15
9 .
What distance should be between groups of cyclists moving in a column?
Right
6. Requirements for cyclists
Wrong
6. Requirements for cyclists
6.3. Cyclists traveling in groups must ride one after another so as not to interfere with other road users. A column of cyclists moving along the roadway must be divided into groups (up to 10 cyclists in a group) with a movement distance between groups of 80-100 m.
Task 10 of 15
10 .
Vehicles will pass through the intersection in the following order
Right
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.13. Before turning left and making a U-turn, the driver of a non-rail vehicle must give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving on an equivalent road in the opposite direction straight or to the right.
Task 11 of 15
11 .
A cyclist passes an intersection:
Right
16. Driving through intersections
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.3. Traffic controller signals take precedence over traffic light signals and road sign requirements and are mandatory. Traffic lights, other than flashing yellow ones, take precedence over priority road signs. Drivers and pedestrians must comply with the additional requirements of the traffic controller, even if they contradict traffic lights, road signs and markings.
16. Driving through intersections
16.6. When turning left or turning around when the main traffic light is green, the driver of a non-rail vehicle is obliged to give way to a tram in the same direction, as well as to vehicles moving straight in the opposite direction or turning right. Tram drivers should follow this rule among themselves.
Task 12 of 15
12 .
Flashing red signals of this traffic light:
Right
8. Traffic regulation
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.7.6. To regulate traffic at railway crossings, traffic lights with two red signals or one white-lunar and two red ones are used, having the following meanings:
a) flashing red signals prohibit the movement of vehicles through the crossing;
b) a flashing white-lunar signal indicates that the alarm system is working and does not prohibit vehicle movement.
At railway crossings, simultaneously with the prohibitory traffic light signal, an audible signal may be turned on, additionally informing road users that movement through the crossing is prohibited.
Task 13 of 15
13 .
The driver of which vehicle will cross the intersection second?
Right
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.
Wrong
16. Driving through intersections
16.11. At an intersection of unequal roads, the driver of a vehicle moving on a secondary road must give way to vehicles approaching this intersection of carriageways on the main road, regardless of the direction of their further movement.
16.14. If the main road at an intersection changes direction, drivers of vehicles moving along it must follow the rules for driving through intersections of equivalent roads.
This rule should be followed among themselves and by drivers driving on secondary roads.
16 Driving through intersections
Wrong
8. Traffic regulation
8.7.3. Traffic light signals have the following meanings:
A signal in the form of an arrow that allows a left turn also allows a U-turn if it is not prohibited by road signs.
A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), switched on together with the green traffic light signal, informs the driver that he has priority in the direction(s) of movement indicated by the arrow(s) over vehicles moving from other directions;
f) a red signal, including a flashing one, or two red flashing signals prohibit movement.
A signal in the form of a green arrow(s) in the additional section(s), together with a yellow or red traffic light signal, informs the driver that movement is permitted in the indicated direction, subject to the unhindered passage of vehicles moving from other directions.
A green arrow on a sign installed at the level of a red traffic light with a vertical arrangement of signals allows movement in the indicated direction when the red traffic light is on from the rightmost lane (or the leftmost lane on one-way roads), subject to the provision of priority in traffic to its other participants moving from other directions to a traffic light signal allowing movement;
16 Driving through intersections
16.9. While driving in the direction of the arrow turned on in the additional section simultaneously with a yellow or red traffic light, the driver must give way to vehicles moving from other directions.
When driving in the direction of the green arrow on the table installed at the level of the red traffic light with vertical signals, the driver must take the extreme right (left) lane and give way to vehicles and pedestrians moving from other directions.
Chopper style electric bike. Maximum speed: 56km/h. Power reserve: up to 150 km.
I'll start with some background.
I love cycling and not only cycling, but also, if possible, using this type of transport to move from point A to point B.
In February 2015, I moved to Montenegro to live for a short time, taking my bicycle with me. The city where I lived was not a flat city: there the road was either down or up. Once again dying on the climb up the mountain, I decided that I needed to do something about it. Need an electric bike!
Well, let’s sit down at specialized forums and study the essence of the issue for a couple of weeks. After looking at the custom “martyr bikes” (these were a bunch of wires), I gradually drew a picture for myself of what I wanted.
2. Reliability and simplicity.
A little clarification: an outboard engine is not simple, in addition, the chain and sprockets need to be lubricated and they will wear out, the same goes for engines that are attached directly to the bottom bracket assembly. Although with this approach it is possible to make a transmission, which will have a beneficial effect on the dynamics of acceleration and maximum speed, but not for long. Let me explain, since perhaps not everyone is aware. The 2 simplest options are a planetarc, but they do not last long from electric motors and fall apart. The usual system, like on many mountain bikes, with several (usually 6 or more) sprockets and a derailleur, but alas, this option disappeared just as quickly, since the chain will wear out on average after 1000 km, and the sprockets will last about 3 thousand, and I'm very optimistic.
In general, the choice fell on a gearless motor wheel.
3. Pre-made space frames are good, but they remind me of dirt bikes, it's comfortable, reliable, fast, etc. But, alas, they don’t suit me yet for aesthetic reasons + considerable weight.
4. Regular cross country is also not exactly what I would like to see.
Thus, the choice fell on something like a chopper or cruiser. I thought for a long time whether to do it with shock absorption or not, in the end I decided that the first project was a trial project, so there was no point in welding the frame from scratch (especially since it would cost a pretty penny), in general, I decided that I would make do with what I could find.
And so, at the beginning of summer, I returned to Odessa and decided that it was time to start.
After a short search, a Nirve Cannibal bicycle was purchased. Next is a kilowatt wheel motor and a standard controller for it. I’ll make a reservation: at first I wanted a 3KW MK (wheel motor), but I decided that this would be too much.
Fitting:
Preparation of the frame: it was necessary to strengthen the dropouts so that the MK axle would not turn, fortunately the frame is iron, and there were no particular problems, we just welded 8mm plates and turned them.
The photo is not so hot, but there was no other one, in general, it turned out thick:
We also had to weld the disc brake mount.
Then the search for the battery began. Ordering ready-made food directly from China was fraught with the risk of running into a low-quality product, and the price tag there was not to say that it was very tasty. Local stores are also in trouble. In general, the search for a solution dragged on for a month or two. But in the end, Li-Pol packages for 38Ah were purchased, and a 48V battery was assembled from them. Deciding to play it safe, I outsourced the assembly to guys with experience.
The result was a 48V 38Ah or 1.8KWh battery with a 60Ah BMS. 100% charged at 54.6V, controller cuts off at 42V.
The size of one cell is approximately 28cm*22cm*0.8cm. When assembling them, there should be a flat, hard dialectic between the packages; chipboard, plywood, and plastic are usually used.
It was originally assembled using chipboard, but the thickness of the finished specimen was not so great, they remade it with a different gasket (I have no idea what it’s from or what it’s called).
The battery is fitted into the case:
Case dimensions:
Now about the battery case. Many layouts, materials, and forms were tried. In the end, I settled on the option from the picture above.
I made it from 15*15 aluminum corners and (forgive my French) some crap found on the balcony. The body was redone several times, as there were some mistakes in the process. And yes, the box had to be durable, since the weight of the battery in its final form is more than 13 kg. The box is bolted from the inside, the side wall is screwed (there was an option with neodymium magnets, but it did not live up to expectations). Also, the box was additionally covered with stretch film and leatherette on top. Now, with a ready-made option, you can make it from fiberglass, if you want Feng Shui.
After preparing the box, the frame went for finishing and painting; holes were drilled in the frame, nuts were inserted and welded. Since the lower frame tube is quite close to the road by design, an additional reinforcing plate was welded to it. The protrusions of the top and bottom tube after the seatpost, on which the fender is attached, were shortened, as they prevented the wheel from sitting more deeply. The frame was powder coated. The layer turned out to be quite decent, it covered the welding areas: both modifications and factory welding, the seams are practically invisible.
Initially, brake handles with sensors were installed (when the brake is pressed, the wheel does not spin if you press on the gas) But after a short run-in, it became clear that, in principle, they were not needed, so the wires from the handles were removed (less wires - less “shahid design”) . In general, there was only one wire left on the steering wheel from the throttle trigger.
Wheels: rear 26" with 3" tires, front 28" 1.75. Brakes - Tektro and Avid BB7 mechanical discs. Discs 180mm. The front sprocket is 44 teeth, the rear is 18.
Coming to the end, I will describe the test runs.
The first run was about 25 km, after 17 km the electrics failed: initially suspicions fell that the controller had overheated, since it was originally in a box with a battery, but later it turned out that the packages were simply poorly soldered together. Yes, I covered the rest of the way home on pedals, taking into account the weight of the bike (45 kg plus or minus), not the best roll (gearless MKs have such a feature), not the best ratio of stars and rider’s position, I think that everything went better Why is it good.
Later there were tests for 100 km, and they were carried out with the chain removed, so as not to spoil the final result. I would like to say that the power reserve greatly depends on driving style, headwind and the road itself. The same distance during the 100 km test differed greatly in average speed, although in both the first and second cases, at the end of the race, about 25% of the charge remained in the battery. By the way, charging takes about 3 hours.
It’s a pleasure to drive, the seating position is very comfortable, you can drive for several hours without getting tired.
By cost:
Frame (assembled bicycle) with modifications and painting: $600
Battery with box: $600
Motor wheel + rim + controller and all the little things: $250
Transport costs: ~50$
Well, maybe some other little things that I don’t remember.
Well, a few more photos:
