(developed by M.A. Boyko, teacher at children's art school, Moscow)

Belts were made, as a rule, from multi-colored woolen threads, sometimes with the addition of linen (less often, silk). Their patterns were very diverse - from simple longitudinal or transverse stripes to beveled geometric motifs, made using the bran method (on boards). Folk belts were made long, their ends were decorated with lush tassels, and trimmed with beads, bugles, and cannon balls.

The colors for the belt were mostly chosen to be bright and contrasting, but folk craftswomen knew how to avoid excessive variegation - all multi-color schemes were subordinated to one leading color: red, orange-yellow or another .

An elegant colorful belt served as an addition to the folk costume, both women's and men's. Belts were made in different ways.

Belts

Children's works

Weaving "twitching"

The simplest method of making belts and braid is the so-called “pulling” - a type of weaving that was used especially often in the Ryazan province. This method is simple and does not require special equipment; children 7-8 years old can easily cope with this work.

Before you start tugging, you need to prepare the threads - make five loops of the same length out of them, taking into account the fact that the weaving will be one and a half times shorter than the loops. On one side, we tie the loops tightly together and attach them to some stationary object: a nail, a wall, a door handle, etc. We put the free ends of the loops on the fingers: three loops on the index, middle and ring fingers of one hand, and two loops on the index and the middle fingers of the other hand (the hands should be turned with the palms facing you, the fingers slightly bent), the ring finger of the right (or left) hand remains free for work.

We pass the free ring finger into the loops placed on the fingers of the other hand, picking up the far loop from the bottom up, and pulling it through the other loops towards ourselves, after which it will be put on the ring finger of the other hand. The ring finger of this hand was freed up for work. Now we will pass this free finger through the loops put on the fingers of the other hand, pick up the far loop and pull it towards ourselves - the loop will end up on the ring finger of this hand again. Now let's repeat the whole cycle from the beginning. Having pulled through the next loop, you need to spread both hands to the sides and pull all the loops to tighten the work. This must be done evenly so that the belt is even and does not expand or contract. The pattern is formed by alternating loops of different colors. Having made the desired length, we tie the threads, leaving a few centimeters for the brush.

This method can be used to weave a round or flatter belt. If the length of the belt or braid must be more than one meter, then two people must work, since the large length of the loops will not allow one person to spread their arms to the required width to tighten the braid. In this case, one actually pulls, and the second helps to tighten the loops. In this way, you can weave a narrow patterned belt from woolen threads of different colors.

Weaving "on a bottle"

Variants of the simplest forms of weaving belts are technologies based on knots and loops. For weaving round belts or braid, there is a “bottle” weaving method. Weaving was most often used in the Russian North, in the Arkhangelsk province. Woolen threads were used for weaving. The pattern was obtained in the form of stripes twisted in a spiral. The preparation of threads using this method consisted in the fact that a certain number of threads (the number of strips depends on the number of threads) twice the length of the future finished product was collected on one side into a bundle and tied into a knot together with the main thread, and on the other - each thread rolled into balls. The end of the knitting needle was inserted into the knot and lowered into the bottle. Weave around the knitting needle, tying a knot around the main thread with patterned threads.

Plain and twill weaving

For weaving wider belts, there was another method, which also did not require additional equipment. Threads for weaving were taken from wool or silk, and the pattern was obtained in a bias check. The preparation of threads using this method consisted in the fact that a certain number of threads (depending on the width of the product) with a length of one and a half times longer than the future finished product were collected on one side into a bundle and left free on the other. It was necessary to attach the tied bundle to a stationary object, for example, to the back of a chair, placing it in front of you. When we started weaving, we distributed the threads in the desired order, dividing them into two equal strands. Now you need to separate the outer thread on the left side and move it to the middle (i.e. to the left edge of the right strand), forming a plain weave, and then attach it to the right strand.

Then, in the same order, the rightmost thread is laid to the middle and attached to the left strand, and so on.

The pattern is obtained by interlacing colored threads.

The order of weaving threads can be not only according to the principle of plain weave - through one thread, but also through two, each time with a shift of one thread, that is, according to the principle of twill weave. Weaving of this type is somewhat more complex, but with its help you can get an interesting effect reminiscent of a transverse or longitudinal scar. With the first type of weaving, it is better to take an even number of threads, with the second - an odd number (for better processing of the edges). Another variant of this weaving is with additional threads that are braided with patterned threads .

Fabric on boards

Another way to make patterned belts is to weave on small square-shaped thin boards with holes in the corners. Children of different ages can cope with this weaving, but the teacher helps younger children (7-9 years old) thread the threads into the boards, while older children (12-16 years old) cope with the task on their own.

Threads tied into a bundle and attached to a stationary object are inserted into the holes of the boards: one thread into each hole (four threads into each board). The number of planks can be different - they determine the width of the product. Usually they take from ten to thirty, and in some cases more. The threads for such weaving are usually woolen, multi-colored, and of medium thickness.

When weaving in those places where threads of the same color were threaded into the boards, you will get a narrow longitudinal strip of that color. In the place where threads of two colors were threaded into one board, you will get a motley stripe. Then the planks are connected and the threads are stretched. Before weaving begins, the planks must be installed in pairs, so that two adjacent threads are threaded symmetrically relative to each other. For the weft, use the same thread as for the warp.

When weaving, the threads must be in a taut position. To do this, they are tied to the belt in such a way that there is about half a meter left for work, counting from the garter to the stationary object. The planks are folded close to each other so that a shed is formed between the threads threaded into the upper and lower holes.

The weft thread is laid into this shed and nailed onto itself with a finger or a wooden knife. Now the planks are carefully turned over all together 90 degrees towards themselves, and another weft thread is laid into the shed thus obtained and nailed to the first weft thread as tightly as possible. Then the planks turn towards themselves again, another weft thread is laid, pulled up and nailed to the previous one. We repeat the whole process from the beginning. We work in this way until the threads become so twisted that it becomes difficult to work. Then we begin to turn the planks in the opposite direction, laying the weft threads in the same order.

The pattern is formed by alternating colored stripes, smooth and variegated. You can come up with various patterns framed by smooth stripes along the edges or make multi-color checkers. You can also make a pattern in the form of a large Christmas tree in the middle, bordered by smooth and variegated stripes along the edges. Christmas trees are made from the same checkers, but made with a shift of one turn of the board.

There is also a known method of weaving belts and other products with ornamental patterns on tablets. Products with such patterns are made on two types of boards: regular and with threads of two colors located diagonally. The edges of the product, as a rule, are made on ordinary boards, with a pattern of longitudinal stripes. The pattern is made from threads of two contrasting colors.

The number of patterned boards is taken, depending on the width of the pattern being made, one pair for each ledge of the pattern.

At the beginning of the work, the patterned boards are installed in such a way that in the upper part of the pharynx there are threads of both the first and second colors, arranged in the same order as in the pattern in its original position. The transition from one position to another corresponds to one turn of the planks and one insertion of the weft. Simple planks are always rotated the same way - 90 degrees. Patterned boards are rotated depending on the pattern. By turning a pair of patterned planks together with non-patterned ones by 90 degrees twice (and, accordingly, laying wefts each time), we thereby leave the first color at the top. But with the next turn by 90 degrees, it should go down, so we look at the drawing: if, according to the pattern, it should go down with the next weft insertion, then we turn this pair of planks, as usual, by 90 degrees. If we see that this color should remain at the top in a given place, then we rotate the board 270 degrees so that the desired color is at the top again. And we do this with all pairs of patterned boards, strictly following the pattern. The more pairs of patterned boards, the wider and more complex the pattern that can be made on them. There is only one indispensable condition - smooth stripes must be placed along the edges of the pattern, made on ordinary boards.

The ornamental motifs themselves can be varied. If desired, you can make a belt or other product with inscriptions, dates, arranging them into a pattern.

“The devil is afraid of a belted man”

Back at the beginning of the 20th century, the belt was an integral part of Slavic clothing: everyday, festive, ritual. A wide variety of patterned belts were worn back in the 1920s on weekdays and holidays, adults and children, men and women. Women wore a belt at the waist over an apron, or under the chest. Men - high under the chest, on the stomach or below the stomach, twisting it around the waist at least two times.

The belt was tied with a knot in the front or on the side so that the ends hung 20-40 cm or more. The method of tying belts indicated their length, which varies from 1.5 to 4 m, individual belts reach 5-6 m. The width of the belts also varies; usually an everyday shirt is belted with a thin half-inch belt (22mm) or a rope (a rope specially woven from flax). The festive shirt was belted with a multi-colored belt (44.45 mm) with family amulet symbols, and the ritual shirt was belted with a wide belt of 1.5-2 inches (6.5-88.9 mm).

The belt in traditional clothing is explained not only by functional necessity, but is also endowed with a deep symbolic meaning. Tying a belt means readiness for actions and the ability to carry out these actions.

Wearing a belt was also associated with a person's moral character. The absence of a belt was seen as a violation of generally accepted norms of behavior. To this day, the words “loose your belt, loosen your belt, etc.” have a negative meaning.

A belt, as a part of a person’s clothing taking the shape of a circle, was universally used as a talisman. It was believed that the demon was afraid of a belted person; removing the belt meant joining the other world, evil spirits, etc.
Therefore, the belt was removed when obtaining a fern flower on the night of the celebration of the Day of God Kupala while searching for treasure.

With the help of a belt, a connection is established between one’s own and someone else’s space, the old and the new home. So among Belarusians, when moving to a new house, the owner pulls all family members by the belt. When the girl was ready to marry the young man whom they had proposed to her, she gave him a belt.

The magical properties of the belt that seals the union of the newlyweds were used in the wedding ceremony: the bride and groom were tied with a belt, thereby connecting them into one. Belts were given to musicians at a wedding, the groom's relatives and guests. When entering the groom's hut after the wedding, the bride threw the belt on the stove (showing the brownie that she was the new mistress). The young people were led to the table on a belt. In the first days after the fun, the young woman, following the lead, laid the belt on the frame of the well. While sweeping the hut, tying a belt on a broom. There is information that sometimes the bride handed out more than a hundred belts at the wedding.

The first sheaf of the harvest was tied with a belt. When cattle were first driven into the field, it was customary for the Eastern Slavs to spread a belt, usually red, at the gate. It was also tied to the horns of a cow and placed in the bags of the shepherds. The first furrow was led by the horse's belt. When buying livestock, it was introduced into the new house through the belt. In the Vladimir province at this moment they said: “forget the old master, get used to the new one.”

In the Slavic tradition, the belt is a source of vitality. It has healing and fertilizing properties. In the Tambov province, in order to win over a young woman for the birth of children, a boy was placed on her lap, she kissed him and gave him a “girl’s belt.” If you wear a belt with the image of a “bunny” around your wife during pregnancy, she will give birth only to boys, the successors of the family. The baby was swaddled with a wide man's belt. A belt with ancestral amulet symbols is a kind of filter that protects a person from negative influences from the outside: damage, the evil eye, bad wishes, etc.

If necessary, healers could enhance the protective properties of the belt with a certain spell.

Various methods and techniques were used to make belts. The most colorful and varied ornaments are found in brass belts woven on thread, reed or cord.

Download the book "Weaving belts on thread (bastard)"

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One of the most ancient types of weaving is weaving on planks. It appeared much earlier than the loom, at the beginning of our era. Perhaps its roots come from ancient Egypt. The dawn of this technique occurs in the Middle Ages in the regions of Scandinavia and England. The Anglo-Saxons and Vikings wove beautiful cords and braids on planks, which they then used to decorate their clothes. Archaeological excavations indicate that this method of needlework was mastered by craftsmen from different countries. So, at one time, tablets were discovered in China, Norway, Germany, and Sweden. Among the peoples who have long inhabited the territory of the modern Leningrad region, there were various types of hand weaving - weaving on planks, on reeds, on threads.

Weaving on planks is an ethnographic term. In ancient times, tablets could be made of wood, leather, horn and even metal. For example, in Novgorod, such devices were made from bone. Wooden planks were used for weaving belts in various regions of Russia until the beginning of the 20th century.

This is a very ancient type of weaving, it is a technology of transition from weaving, from twisting ropes to weaving.

Woven belts in Russian costume

A mandatory element of both women's and men's peasant costumes has always been a belt. Walking without a belt, “unbelting” was considered a great sin and indecency. The belt in ancient Russian costume played a sacred meaning and served as a talisman. At different ages, people wore different belts. For a child, just a twisted cord was enough; for teenagers, girls and boys, these were thicker belts, twisted from a larger number of threads with some kind of simple pattern. Then, with age, the belt became wider. And then, the most beautiful, most elegant belt was the swear belt, made for a wedding. Or a prayer woven on a belt or dedicated to a specific person.

Belts differ in technology, ornamentation, and color scheme.

On the belts were woven insignia of the clan, preferences in choosing the future, or some statements. A belt is a mandatory part of a costume in Rus'. It was a kind of amulet for its owner.

The belt was put on the child right at birth, thereby, as it were, tying him to this life. Of course, it was just a thread spun with a slander. As the child grew, the type of belt changed as he grew older.

Preparing to weave a belt

Nowadays, this long-forgotten Russian craft has begun to gradually revive. It is usually used to make belts, ribbons or braids with various patterns. Such ribbons are used for decorating clothing, haberdashery, and also for home interiors.

Mastering this craft does not require complex or expensive tools. The main thing is desire and simple tools.

As tools we use a belt, a knife for nailing the weft, scissors, woolen, half-woolen, linen or silk threads, which must be previously woven (wound).

The length of the thread depends on what kind of product you want to weave. This is the length of the product plus one third of the length.

There are several types of drawings. There are threading belts, that is, colored threads are threaded into each board in a certain way and with the constant rotation of these boards all the time in one direction or at a certain frequency. For example, six turns in one direction, then six turns in the other. This way a certain pattern is obtained.

Belts in Rus' were made using different technologies, for example, using the bran technique. Or they simply wove laces. There were many different types of hand-woven belts.

There are two techniques for weaving on planks. Embedding, where the pattern is obtained from the arrangement of colored threads when threading. And the transfer technique, when the drawing is obtained by changing places of the boards.

So, let's move on to weaving. To do this, you need to make special boards. These are squares with a side of 6 cm made of thin plywood, thick cardboard or plastic. Holes are made in the corners of the squares. It is best to number all the boards and each hole. The holes are numbered clockwise.

The squares need to be made with smooth edges and the corners should be cut off so that when turning, our threads do not cling to them.

In addition, you need a shuttle. I make it from the same cardboard. The weft is wound around it.

The width of the resulting product depends on the number of threads used and their thickness. The more threads, the wider the belt.

In my article I will talk about typesetting technology.

Weaving

4 threads are inserted into each board. They can be the same color or different colors.

For weaving with ornaments in some planks, we will thread the threads only into two holes, those located diagonally.

So let's begin.

We choose the pattern we will weave with. We have one like this.

It requires threads of two colors. It is desirable that they be contrasting.

The edges of the product, as a rule, are made of the same color, threading the threads into all four holes. The middle, patterned part is made on boards threaded with two threads of different colors. For our drawing we need 8 boards with four threads and 10 boards with two threads (from now on I will call them patterned). We insert threads of the same color into regular boards, and two colors into patterned boards.

Let's start threading the threads. To begin with, take strings about a meter long. According to our drawing, you need to fill it as follows. In the first, third and fourth - 4 light threads, in the second - 4 dark threads. In the next 10 boards we insert one dark and one light thread into the holes located diagonally. And then in two boards - four light threads, in one - 4 dark threads and in the last - 4 light threads.

Now we collect the boards in a pile. We fold it so that along the top there are threads of the color needed in the design. Our simple boards are located along the edges, and the patterned ones are arranged so that dark threads run along the top. This is how the threads are arranged for the first row.

In general, at the beginning of the belt I always weave several rows without a pattern, just in stripes. And only then I start drawing.

We wind the ducks onto the shuttle. It is better to take it in the same color as the main thread, but you can take it thinner. Mine is light.

We fold the edges of all the threads evenly and tie a knot. We tie a lace or rope to this knot. This will be the beginning of our work. We fix the second end to something stationary. We tie a belt around ourselves just above the waist and tie a cord to it. The weaving threads must be well tensioned. When we have pulled the threads, a hole is formed between the upper and lower threads - the pharynx. We will insert a weft thread into this shed.

Carefully turn all the planks 90 degrees towards you. The threads change places. And you can again insert wefts into the throat. It doesn't need to be tightened too much, but it shouldn't hang loose either.

In order for us to get the required pattern, we need to constantly monitor which threads we have on top. Simple planks always rotate 90 degrees, but patterned ones must be rotated depending on the pattern.

By turning a couple of patterned boards along with the simple ones 90 degrees twice, we thereby leave the first color at the top. But at the next turn it should go down. Therefore, we look at the drawing: if, according to the pattern, the weft should go down at the next insertion, then we turn this pair of planks as usual, 90 degrees.. If we see that this color should remain at the top in this place, then we turn the board 270 degrees, i.e. three-quarters of a turn, so that the desired color is again at the top. And we do this with all pairs of patterned boards, strictly following the pattern. And don’t forget to lay wefts after each turn.

If you have to interrupt work, you must definitely fix the boards in the position in which they were at the end of the work. You can secure them with a rubber band or a large pin, threading it through the holes on the boards. Then, starting work after a break, you will not confuse the drawing.

The more pairs of patterned boards, the wider and more complex the pattern that can be made on them. There is only one indispensable condition - smooth stripes must be placed along the edges of the pattern, made on ordinary boards. And the ornaments themselves can be taken in a variety of different ways.

To make the drawing clear, you need to be very careful. Each flaw will be clearly visible on the product. The first time it will work out slowly, over time, with practice, the work will move faster and easier.

Now, in the age of modern technology, many craftswomen weave belts on planks using special devices that allow the weaver not to become attached to her creation. These are something like this.

I hope I explained and showed the whole process clearly enough. And if you take up this task, it will give you a lot of pleasant moments and the result will please you.

Good luck to you, dear readers! Share your achievements in the comments.

braids and cords. The work could contain from 3 to 15 or even more threads. Braided braids can be different: narrow and plain, wide and multi-colored and vice versa. Braids can be used as a belt, as a braid, as handles for bags. Braids, threads and cords are also suitable for braiding braids.

For example: braided belts- they have always accompanied man since ancient times. Belts were tied over clothing and were mandatory. Belts were woven from linen or wool threads. The belts were both wide and narrow, simple and ornamented. They were used for weaving in different ways.

Seven-strand colored braid

Video

First you need to cut the threads, their length should be 1.5 - 2 times longer than the finished product. Then we get to work. We arrange the threads in the desired order, tie a knot and attach it to the bolster or pillow with a pin.

Our threads are arranged in the following order: light, dark, and so on. Now we take the light thread on the far left, place it on the adjacent dark thread and pass it under the next two (light and dark).

Now we do the same on the right side: a light thread on a dark one and under two (light and dark).

All further weaving continues according to the principle: we pass the outer thread under the adjacent one and overlap it with the next two. And this is what we end up with:

If we weave a little differently: the outer thread on two adjacent ones from above and down under the next thread; Continue this way on both sides alternately, it turns out:

Threads for weaving a belt can be used in different colors.

Woven thread belt

A belt is a small but very important wardrobe detail. It's not always possible to match a belt to your clothes. The solution to such a problem can be very simple. If it goes with the outfit braided belt, then you can weave it from threads, braid, ribbons.

My friend urgently needed a belt. Time for production is a day. The color of the belt is beige-brown. Belt length 1.50 cm.

We measure and cut the threads: “Astra” peach threads in 4 folds, light brown synthetic (spool thread No. 80) in 28 folds, “Lilac” brown thread in 4 folds, linen twisted thread in 2 folds. I collected an assortment of what was available. I tied 7 strands into a bun and braided it like a braid. I tied knots at the ends of the belt.

For many centuries, the belt was among the first items of clothing. Almost all nations have a belt in their national costumes. It was not simply used to support certain parts of clothing or for decoration. The belt was important in traditional folk rituals, especially for the Eastern Slavs, for whom the belt was the main component of both men's and women's clothing.

The belt served as a talisman for its owner. In Rus', parting with a belt against one’s will was a terrible disaster or even punishment for any person. It was believed that the belt not only protected the owner, but also gave him physical strength. The belts were different: woven, woven from threads or even bast. They were woven from wool and linen threads.

Photo from above - Altuzarra
Photo below - Altuzarra and Brock Collection

The woven belt still remains, only now an object of fashion. Braided belts using the macrame technique or made from rope with many knots look especially expressive and stylish. Due to the fact that fashion has seriously turned to things made in the simplest form, where you can clearly see traces of manual labor, and without much care, in the latest spring-summer 2019 collections, rope belts turned out to be quite remarkable.

Some are wondering what to make a rope belt out of, and many fashionistas have picked up this trend and made belts from clothesline. They look fun and funny. For those unfamiliar with the macrame technique, now is the time to learn a thing or two and make your own rope belt. There are different .

Chloe

Luxurious accessories are obtained using a crochet hook, there is fork knitting, macrame, bobbin weaving, and there is simply knitting without the use of any special devices - knitting on fingers, and there can be several ways. Therefore, you have the opportunity to show your imagination in an exciting and completely uncomplicated job and weave a rope belt to your favorite dress.

You can see the new looks with rope belts that designers have prepared for us in the 2019 season. The belt can be woven from wool, nylon, linen, cotton threads, rope, braid, ribbons, leather, the ends can be decorated with pompoms and tassels.

Claudia Li, Etro

Knitted or woven belts have long had a certain meaning and symbolized tireless adherence to specific rules. By the way, the knots on the belt and their number also have a secret meaning.

But everything related to the belt, both in the Bible and in folk traditions, is based on the desire for piety, purity, fidelity and other good intentions. Make your own belt and let it be a symbol of modesty, chastity, protection and decoration for you.