It is very convenient to assemble using special racks - brackets. If these benefits are not at hand, you should ask a friend to help you. First of all, we cut with scissors or special wire cutters plastic clamps that fasten all parts of the bike togetherso that they do not scatter in all directions during careful transportation by Soviet loaders.

Then we remove the protective elements in the form of a film, foam rubber or cardboard from the released parts and the frame. Already, by the way, the color of the future bike is becoming clear! It is better to immediately pump up the wheels, because when the pressure in the chamber changes, the rim can play a little. Which sometimes entails adjusting the brake settings. The recommended pressure is always written on the sidewall of the tire, but if you pump up 3 atmospheres, you can't go wrong.

If your takeaway came separately, the next step is to install it. Carefully unscrew the plug stem cap with a hex key and remove the cardboard rings holding the plug in place. Instead, we put a takeaway. If it suddenly does not fit on the stem - do not panic and just loosen the side mounting bolts of the stem. Also a hexagon. During the entire operation, make sure that the stem does not go down from the head tube - this is fraught with a long and dirty search for flying bearings and installing them back at random.

Now we put the stem cover in place and fix it all with a bolt. Remember that the purpose of this cover is not to tightly fix the stem - it should only assemble the "anchor - bearings - head tube - stem" structure together. But the side bolts are just designed for rigid fixation, so they should be tightened harder.

Now we have where to put the steering wheel. Unscrew the front stem cover with a hexagon, remove it and fit the steering wheel. Your friend at this point firmly fixes the cover back with bolts. Now let's figure out how to make sure that you do not have to repeat this operation many times in a row. Usually there are risks on the steering wheel that are visible even under the stem cover. This is exactly what should help you put the steering wheel in the stem exactly in the center. Brake levers should look forward in the direction of travel and be turned down by 30-45 degrees. This will be the correct position. Also make sure that the cables are on the correct side of the steering column and not twisted.

Let's finally turn our attention to the wheels. If the bike came with the rear wheel removed, then it is worth putting it first. We insert eccentrics into the bushings, and the springs should be on both sides of the bushing, with the wide part outward. The eccentric lever is always on the left in the direction of travel. When fixing the wheel in dropouts, you must make sure that it is level and the eccentric axis on both sides has reached its extreme point. Make sure the brakes are not preventing the wheel from centering properly. Tighten the eccentric by turning one part clockwise while holding the other. Now close it so that the lever is not able to open on its own. This is usually due to insufficient tightening force, or catching on some objects in the way. The direction of rotation is usually indicated on the tire, follow this. But there is also a bidirectional protector.

It's time to deal with the switch cable jackets. They need to be installed in the rails on the frame, in the shifters and in the rear derailleur. It's no secret that the shifters pull the cable, due to which the gear shift is obtained. At the time of installing the shirts, the cable should be as relaxed as possible. But for installation in the last grooves, the length of the cable is still not enough - so your friend moves the switches, and you complete the operation.

Now we install the pedals. On the side of the axle each has the letters L and R. Left and right in the direction of travel, respectively. The left pedal has a left-hand thread, the right pedal has a right-hand thread. Tighten strongly, because a loose pedal breaks the threads in the connecting rod, which leads to its replacement.

Let's set it up - making sure the seat tube eccentric is open, oil the post itself and gently insert it into the frame. Adjust the height to taste and securely close the eccentric. If the pin and saddle came separately, which happens extremely rarely, the pin fasteners are fixed in the center of the saddle sled (they also have a system of notches), and the saddle slope is set parallel to the ground.

Let's take the brakes. If you have vibration brakes (rim brakes) - make sure that each pad, when pressed, is adjacent to the rim with its entire braking plane, and also does not catch the tire. If this is not the case, loosen its fastening with a hex and fix it. Install the cable into the brake lever with the side with the cylindrical lead head.

Route the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot catch on the wheel. For this, special fasteners on the fork are provided, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and fork leg. On one of the legs of the front and rear brake there is a cable clamp that fixes its position. Loosen it with a hex key and adjust the cable tension to give the brake lever about half the full travel to the grip.

Now - if any block catches the rim when the wheel is moving - at the base of each foot there is a small screw, adjustable with a screwdriver or hexagon. Don't confuse it with the big screw holding the brake tab in place! When this small screw is screwed in, the brake foot with the brake shoe moves away from the rim, and the opposite foot with the shoe approaches. Accordingly - where it rubs - there we twist clockwise. Everything is simple! Now we cut off the excess cable so that a tail 3 cm long remains. At the end of the cable, we must fix a special tip with pliers.

If the brakes are disc brakes, you may need to screw the brake disc to the hub first. Here we need a special key. The disc is installed with the labels facing out. Make sure that the directions of rotation of the disk and wheel coincide. Spin it tight - brakes are everything! Now install the front caliper. It happens that the adapter comes separately, so let's consider the installation procedure in its entirety. Skip items as needed.

Screw the adapter to the plug with the arrow pointing up. Strongly. About mechanical (cable) brakes: we fasten the caliper to the adapter, with the cable entry up. Leave the bolts slightly loose for further adjustment. Install the cable into the brake lever with the side with the cylindrical lead head. Route the cable jacket to the front brake so that it cannot catch on the wheel. For this, special fasteners on the fork are provided, if they are not there, fasten the cable jacket with plastic clamps to the sidewall of the crown and fork leg. We loosen the hex bolt that is responsible for attaching the cable to the brake, let the cable go there and achieve such a cable tension that provides the brake handle with about half the full travel to the grip.

Now the adjustment. The position of the pads relative to the disc is very clear. Both pads must be at the same distance from the disc and be strictly parallel to the disc. Tighten the caliper mounting bolts. But even here you can influence the operation of the brake. One block does not move with us (right), and the second is set in motion by a cable. The position of the right pad can be adjusted with a hexagon on the right wall of the caliper. Rotate to the right - the pad is approaching the disc. To the left - moving away from him. The position of the left pad is regulated by the tension of the cable, the tighter it is, the closer the pad is to the disc.

Hydraulic disc brakes. The installation is the same as for mechanical ones, only instead of a cable we have a hydraulic line, which is already attached to the handle and caliper. So we correctly position the hydraulic line, put the adapter (if necessary), fix the caliper with bolts, but do not tighten them to the end. We press the brake lever - and now we are already tightening the mounting bolts. In 90% of cases, nothing else needs to be done. But, if the brake is not centered and the disc clings to the pads, we loosen the fixing bolts and manually align the caliper.

By the way, it often happens that the brake discs come from the factory curves - all that remains is to straighten them back with a special key or dexterous hands. Fortunately, this is very easy to do because of the great softness of the metal, so do not overdo it.

The extreme degree of bicycle assembly is the switch setting. Don't be afraid, it's easier than everyone thinks. Basically, upon arrival from the factory, everything is configured. It is enough to insert all the shirts correctly - and everything will work fine. If not, here's what to do.

Front derailleur. If the chain does not move from a small star to a large one, tighten the cable more. This is done with a twist on the lever in the place where the cable comes out of it. You need to rotate counterclockwise. The number of revolutions cannot be precisely named, act according to the situation. Do one at a time until the chain goes over. If the chain, on the contrary, does not switch from a large to a small star, the cable should be relaxed in the above way. You just need to turn it clockwise.

Also on the switch itself we have 2 small bolts with the letters L and H next to them. This is an adjustment of the travel limits of the switch. L is responsible for the limit near the frame, H is for the big star. You should not touch them unnecessarily, but if the chain falls behind a large star, then we screw in the bolt H. If the cable tension is sufficient, but the chain still does not go to the third (largest) star, we unwind bolt H. Determine the number of revolutions yourself - the situation is the same as with the cable tension. If the chain does not go to the smallest star - unscrew the bolt L. If it falls to the left of the first star - spin L.

Rear derailleur. Here we have the opposite with the limit bolts - L is responsible for the side of the large star, and H for the side of the small one. It is worth pulling the cable if the chain does not go from small to large. Relax - if from large to small. The rear derailleur cable tension is adjusted not only on the shifter, but also on the switch itself, at the point where the cable enters it.

That's all, use your wits and dexterous hands! Also remember that if you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them. Call us!

Oh yes! Don't forget to clean and lubricate the chain!

Good luck riding, because the bike is freedom!

Attention! This article was written by site store specialists based on the experience gained in assembling a huge number of bicycles. Reprinting of the material is allowed only with an active link to the original article, as well as with the preservation of all hyperlinks in the text!

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Many now buy bikes online and receive them in boxes. Here we will explain what tools you will need to assemble your bike, how to assemble it and how to check its safety. If you are not sure about something we offer, go to your nearest bike shop. They will be more than happy to help you.

Required Tools

• Road pump
• Pedal wrench
• Hexagon set
• Wrench (optional but recommended)
• Can of lubricant
• Stand/tripod (preferably, helps a lot)
• Wire cutters (Cut brake cables, derailleur cables and crimp ends if gears and brakes need to be installed).

General concepts you need to know

When installing carbon components, such as handlebars and seatpost, it is always recommended to use a special adhesive for carbon products. Usually small tubes in cardboard boxes are included, but if not, you can buy one from your local bike shop.

Do not overtighten the bolts! Stick to the recommendations, which are usually written in small letters next to the bolts. The seat is usually tightened to 6Nm. It is important. Overtightening can ruin components, and undertightening can cause them to move out. (No one wants the steering wheel to shake when going down a steep hill!!)

The threads must be lubricated. This applies to both bolts and pedals. In most new bikes, the bolts are pre-lubricated. Without lubrication, they get stuck.

Teflon spray is ideal for lubricating cables.

If you're building a kid's bike, they're much simpler and won't take as long to fiddle around with shifting gears and headsets.

1. Clear the box

Most bikes come in a lot of packages, with handlebars attached to the wheels. The first thing to do is to unpack everything from a pile of polyethylene, ropes and cables. The easiest way is to put the bike frame on a tripod and cut off all the windings. If you don't have a tripod, lean the bike against a wall.

And remember, the bike may be the wrong size or defective and may need to be returned. Therefore, it will be correct to unpack it carefully and understand approximately how it was packed. Because in case you need to return, you can put it in the same box.

2. Insert wheels

When unpacking is finished, insert the wheels. Insert the axle into the wheel, first put a thin layer of grease along the entire length of the axle shaft (they may already be greased from the factory). Check the rotation of the wheel (the direction of rotation is marked with an arrow on the side of the tire). The quick release lever should be on the left side of the bike when you sit on it.

When installing the front wheel, simply slide the axle into the fork slots, leaving the quick release lever on the left side. Make sure the wheel is installed exactly in the middle between the forks. You may need to loosen the cam to expand the brake calipers to make room for the wheel to move. Inexpensive bikes may not have a cam, but then you can loosen the tire by releasing air from it.

It is not uncommon for wheels to be delivered slightly bent due to incorrect transportation. Therefore, you should check that everything is in order with them. To do this, lift the bike up and spin the wheel. Watch how it spins relative to the frame - a bent wheel is immediately visible. If you need a wheel alignment, you can contact your nearest bike shop.

Also you need to pump up the wheel! A road pump with a pressure gauge is best suited for this. Most often, the tires indicate the pressure to which they need to be pumped up.

3. Turn the steering wheel in a circle

To do this, you will most likely need hex sockets, the size of which will depend on your bike. Typically a bicycle uses 4 or 2 sizes of hex bolts, in some cases torx. If you don't have the appropriate wrench handy, you can use a smaller hex key. If the bolts are not lubricated, it is recommended that they be lubricated to prevent them from failing in the near future.

Loosen the bolts on the stem and turn the handlebar to the desired position. Then tighten the bolts and make sure everything is tightened properly. If you overtighten one of them, the stem may break. When using a wrench, 5-6 Nm will be enough for each bolt.

4. Place the seat

The seatpost may already be in the frame, but fixed in its lower position so that the bike fits into the box. Therefore, you will need to set it to the height you need, according to your height and your fit.

5. Install brakes and gears

For safety reasons, as well as for fun, we recommend that you check that the brakes and chainrings are set correctly and that the headset fits snugly. Some bikes come without cables. They are quite easy to install yourself, but you have to be careful when doing so. If you need to cut cables, be sure to use the right tools, wire cutters. Do not rush to use scissors, because. they chamfer the edges of the cable.

Note: The cables lie in grooves and it is completely normal for them to stretch slightly after a couple of weeks. This can affect the speed of the brakes and transmission system. This is normal and you or your local mechanic just needs to tweak them a little.

6. Check switches

Increased attention should be paid to the setting of the speed switches. They should be mounted on the handlebar so that you can use them comfortably so that you do not have to reach for them with your fingers. The shift cables must be installed in such a way as to provide maximum freedom of movement of the steering wheel and at the same time do not dangle in different directions.

Of course, all these are just basic tips, but even if you listen at least to them, you will be able to assemble your new iron friend yourself. However, even if you are afraid to do it yourself due to insufficient experience or for some other reason, then you can always use the help of a master from the nearest bike workshop.

Despite the hefty price tag of road bikes, you still need to do some setup work when building it out of the box.

1. Tools

2. First steps

3. Rudder

4. Saddle

5. Brakes

6. Switching

6.1. "Pistols"

6.2. Switches

1. Tools

For assembly and configuration, we need some tools. I would like to say that each manufacturer may have different sizes of hexagonal screw heads, or there may be “asterisks” in general, as in our case

1. Hexagons for 3, 4, 5, 6 mm.

2. Torx T25 ("asterisk").

3. Phillips screwdriver.

4. Side cutters or strong scissors.

5. A pump that allows you to pump high pressure (up to 11 atm, 160 psi).

6. Torque wrench (desirable, especially if the frame, handlebars, stem, seatpost are carbon).

2. First steps

The bike is in the box like this.

We remove the packaging

As a rule, bicycles are wrapped with a large amount of packaging to preserve the paintwork, and also “hide” protruding parts so that they are not damaged during transportation.

1) Cut off the nylon clamps with side cutters and remove the packaging.

2) If there is a package wrapped with tape, it is better to remove it with your hands.

Inflating the wheels

Typically most road bikes have Presta valve tubes. For pumping, we take the pump, unscrew the valve, install the pump head and bring the pressure in the wheel to the one recommended by the manufacturer. You can find out the recommended pressure on the side of the tire.

In our case, you can pump up to 10 atm, but most tires have a maximum allowable pressure of about 8 atm.

3. Rudder

There may be 2 options

1) The stem is mounted on the fork stem, the handlebar is separate.

2) The steering wheel is fixed to the stem, instead of the stem there are spacer rings on the fork stem.

We have the first option.

We recommend loosening the stem, removing the cover and checking the tightening of the reusable anchor, which is placed in forks with a carbon stem. If there is a torque wrench, then it’s good (the value of the tightening force is written on the anchor), and if it is not there, then the main thing is not to tighten it “from the foot”

After installing the anchor, set the stem to the desired height and press the lid on top. Only then can the screws on the side of the stem be fixed.

As a rule, the length of the fork stem on new bikes comes with a margin, but do not rush to shorten the stem immediately. First you need to ride and understand in which position of the takeaway you are most comfortable riding. Based on this, it is already possible to cut the stock.

Fix the handlebars in the stem so that it is parallel to the surface on which the bike is standing (when the “guns” are not pulled up and not lowered down). Tighten with screws evenly in turn

With winding, too, there may be a surprise. Some manufacturers save on assembly by not wrapping the steering wheel, since the process takes a lot of time. We are lucky - there is a winding

But if you have it separately in a box, then do the following

1. Start wrapping the handlebar from the ends, making a slight overlap on the holes in the handlebar.

2. Wrap at a slight angle.

3. When the winding is finished, fix it with the supplied adhesive tape. Better wrap it with electrical tape, because the tapes do not always securely fix the edges of the winding.

4. Insert the plugs that come with the kit into the holes of the steering wheel. We needed the overlap of the winding in order for the plugs to hold firmly in the holes of the steering wheel.

5. Make a winding next to the “gun” mount, as in the photo. So the plastic parts will not protrude from under the lining

4. Saddle

Place the saddle on the seatpost so that when the seatpost is inserted into the frame, it is parallel to the surface on which the bike is standing.

Adjust the saddle so that it sits in the middle of the mount on the seatpost. In the future, you can build on your feelings and install the saddle the way you want.

Both of the above steps are done with the screws on the seatpost.

The height at which you need to install the seatpost will also become clear after the first trips. In the future, if you are very concerned about the weight of the bike, the pin can be shortened, but note that at least 10 cm of length must remain in the frame

5. Brakes

Before adjusting the brakes, install the front wheel. The brakes, at the same time, must be disengaged, for which a separate lever is responsible. After installing the wheel, the lever must be turned to the lower position.

Also check that the rear wheel is installed correctly. If it is not level, put the bike on the floor, loosen the cam, push down on the saddle, tighten the cam

The eccentric lever must always be closed! It is forbidden to screw it all the way in and drive in the open position of the eccentric!

In our case, conventional road caliper brakes are mounted with a bolt into a special hole in the fork.

As we can see, the brake is "littered" on one side.

A rough adjustment is to rotate the brake slightly on the bolt shaft so that the pads are about the same distance from the braking surface of the rim.

The next step is to use a 3mm Allen key to adjust the position of the brake levers so that the pads are equidistant from the braking surface of the rim

If the pads are a little tangled, use a 4mm Allen key to set them parallel to the braking surface of the rim.

Adjust brake force with cable tensioner

6. Switching

6.1. "Pistols"

First you need to understand how "pistols" work.

Responsible for the rear derailleur "pistol" with the help of a small lever upshifts

With the help of the brake lever turned to the side, the gear is lowered (if you press further, you can switch 2-3 gears in one “long” press)

Responsible for the front derailleur "pistol" has some features. To begin with, let's say that a small lever drops the chain onto a small star

Accordingly, a large lever in the form of a brake handle puts a chain on a large star

However, in each case there are small “gun” strokes that provide protection against large chain distortions for the derailleur and due to which the chain will not rub against the frame.

1. Let's say the front derailleur is in the leftmost position, the chain is on small stars both in front and behind. In this case, you need to press the brake lever of the left "pistol" to the side until the first small click, which will lock the switch in a position in which the chain does not rub against the frame.

2. Once again pressing the handle, but not bringing it to the stop, the chain will switch to a large star, but will still rub against the derailleur frame. In this position, you can use a large chainring in front and a large chainring in the rear, since this position of the front derailleur allows the chain to work with such a misalignment.

3. Bringing the handle to the end, you will eliminate the friction of the chain on the frame when there is a large star in front and a small one in the back.

4. In the reverse order, everything works exactly the same, only to drop the chain from a large star to a small one and to eliminate distortions, you need to work with a small lever.

6.2. Switches

The rear derailleur is set up correctly in most cases and requires only minor adjustments.

1. Install the chain in front on the largest star, and in the back on the smallest one. Check that the star and rollers are in line.

2. Place the chain on the front of the small chainring and on the back of the largest one and check that the chainring and rollers are in line.

3. If this is not the case, and even more so if the chain falls into the spokes or onto the frame, use a Phillips screwdriver to adjust the position of the switch with the stop screws.

4. After that, check that the switching is clear, and if it is not, use a hollow bolt to adjust the cable tension.

Do the same for the front derailleur. Switching limits are also regulated by screws "L" and "H"

The only thing, in our case, the role that the cable tensioner used to play is played by this screw

Road bikes are not equipped with pedals, so first choose the pedals you need, then read our article "" and act.

As a result of the assembly, such a handsome man turned out

The video perfectly complements our article, since the road bike here is assembled almost from scratch.

First of all, it should be noted that assembling a bicycle out of the box is a delicate matter, which will require a lot of skill, time and effort, unless, of course, you are a professional. So, if possible, entrust this matter to someone who understands such subtleties. This ensures that all the necessary nuts are tightened in a clockwise direction, and the brake lever is fixed exactly where it is needed.

But if you still decide to assemble the bike yourself, we will be happy to help you do it right.

Why is the bike disassembled?

So, let's talk about everything in order. Why take the bike apart and put it in a box at all? There are at least two reasons. Firstly, it allows you to significantly save on its transportation. And secondly, in this way you can protect the bike from various damages that simply cannot be avoided during transportation.

What is included?

In the box, as a rule, there is an incompletely disassembled bike. Wheels, pedals, fenders, saddle, steering wheel, mirrors, horns, reflectors are located separately from the frame. The connecting rod and brake lever will also have to be installed additionally.

Unboxing

We talked a little about what the kit is, now it would be nice to talk about unpacking: we won’t assemble the bike right in the box. It is better to unpack it in a strict sequence:

1. The first step is to carefully remove everything from the box, separately arranging all unassembled elements, including the frame, wheels and brake lever;
2. Further, cardboard must be removed from all elements, and packaging from the frame (if, of course, there is one);
3. All films and packaging are needed exclusively for transportation, so they need to be disposed of so that they are not confused. The protective plastic packaging must be removed from the axles;
4. Well, in the end, it is important not to forget to rewrite the warranty card, which is also included in the kit, the serial number of the frame.

Assembly

Before proceeding with the assembly, you need to take care of the inventory - you will not assemble the bike with your bare hands. Moving the bolts clockwise will be much faster if you have the right key. So what tools do we need?

1. Screwdriver. Trite, but without it - nowhere. It is highly desirable that it be neither too large nor too small. All the bolts that need to be tightened clockwise on the bike are not large;
2. Pliers. Pliers are a reliable assistant in assembling anything;
3. Specialized pedal wrench. Here, of course, you can get by with a 15 mm open-end wrench;
4. Hex keys: 4.5, 6 and 8 mm;
5. Wrenches for 6 and 10 inches.

Threaded connections require attention

In general, this will be quite enough - now you can start assembling. Just before that, we remind you that you need to carefully check all fasteners and threaded connections, because assembling a bicycle is a delicate job that does not tolerate the use of brute physical force when rotating clockwise. It is better to clean the thread ten times than to damage anything.

Now, actually, about the assembly in order.

Wheels and brakes

It is best to start the assembly with the wheels, it is advisable to adhere to the following sequence:

1. If the front wheel has any marks, it is important to determine its direction. If they are not on it, then it does not matter in which direction to fix it. When inserting the front wheel into the fork, care must be taken to ensure that it clearly falls into the grooves;
2. When mounting the eccentric in the bushing axle on the front wheel, you need to make sure that the springs are on both sides of the bushing, and the eccentric foot is on the left side;
3. At the end, the eccentric foot should be fixed parallel to the wheel axis, it should be fixed so that the wheel is securely fixed, but the main thing here is not to overdo it.

After the wheels are done, you can move on to the brakes. And we'll start with the brake cable. Before inserting the cables into the shirts, it is highly desirable to lubricate them. If the wheels have rim brakes, they must be fastened. You also need to pay attention to the brake lever: it is important that the levers are located symmetrically.

Shifters and steering column

Particular attention should be paid not only to the brake lever, but also to the gearshift knobs. Their cables also need to be lubricated before being "dressed" in the shirts intended for them. You don’t need to screw them all the way down, this will help, for example, at the time of a fall: the shifter will not break, but only turn slightly.

The steering column has one feature: as a rule, it is already installed on a bicycle. But this feature of hers does not prevent us from paying a little attention to her. First of all, the surface of the steering column should be lubricated with grease. It is also important to carefully press the cups of the steering gear.

The steering wheel in the takeaway must be fixed symmetrically, so that the brake levers are lowered down at a certain angle from the horizontal, namely about 40 degrees. It is also important to hang the cables correctly so that they do not get confused, and of course, it is important not to forget to secure the steering wheel well. This will help prevent falls and injuries in the future.

Pedals

There is absolutely nothing complicated in installing the pedals, it is only important to reckon with some subtleties. For example, you need to take into account the fact that the pedal must be twisted against the direction of movement of your bike. Just with this in mind, each pedal (both the right and the left) has a thread in different directions. Therefore, it is important that each of them is in its place. The right pedal must be twisted clockwise, and the left - vice versa. Otherwise, nothing will come of it. For these purposes, which is quite obvious, a hex key is used. In the matter of pedaling, you can already forget about tenderness and caution - the more you twist them, the better.

Here, in general, and all. To some, this matter may seem very simple and understandable - for professionals, for example, it takes no more than ten minutes to assemble one bicycle. Well, if the assembly process scares you and you don’t want to spend time on it, it’s okay, you can always entrust this dreary task to specialists.

Every beginner needs a bike assembly manual, whether it's an adult or a children's bike.

A man would like to order his first bike from an online store, but he is afraid that he will not have the skills to assemble it out of the box. The situation is vital, many beginners prefer to buy a bike in a regular store, where the prices are higher and the choice is limited, but nothing needs to be assembled and configured.

With this note, I want to convey the idea that the process of assembling a bike out of the box is so simple that it will take no more than half an hour, even for a person who is far from cycling.

Good news for beginners: the bike does not come as a set of parts in a box, but already 80% assembled. After doing some simple unpacking, you will see something like this:

The rear wheel, brakes, chain and derailleurs are all set and ready to go, all you have to do is screw on the handlebars, mount the front wheel and insert the seat post and saddle.

Nothing special, the kit always comes with several hex keys of the right size. However, I strongly advise you to get a basic bicycle set that will come in handy in the future.

I began to describe the process, but then I realized that this is exactly the case when it is better to see with my own eyes.

Video how to assemble a new bike out of the box

Everything is very simple, you can go for a ride.

Does a new bike need maintenance after purchase?

Bikes are assembled at the factory on an automatic line, and in general, all mechanisms are tuned and do not require special maintenance or adjustment. It just needs some tweaking, so to speak.

brakes

The video above shows how to adjust the disc brakes - you need to loosen the bolts securing the caliper, clamp the brake lever, and without releasing it, tighten the bolts.

If your bike is equipped with vibration breaks, then watch the video on how to set them up:

Gear shift

Most of the time, switches come factory set, but sometimes they need to be adjusted, this is also a simple process, I described it in these articles:

Chain

As a rule, it is not necessary to lubricate the chain on a new bike, because it is still in factory lubrication, which lasts for the first 100 kilometers. But then be sure to buy a special bicycle chain lubricant and lubricate every 100-150 km (mileage depends on the type of lubricant).

wheels

Inflate the tires (the minimum and maximum pressure is written on the sidewall of the tire), read the note in more detail about how this affects rolling and wear.

The spokes in a new wheel "shrink" in their seats when the load begins to act on them, and the tension weakens, which can lead to broken spokes or eights. I advise after the first 100 kilometers to give the bike to the spokes broaching workshop.

The bike is ready for battle - you can go for a ride. In conclusion, I would recommend getting the necessary accessories as soon as possible: helmet, taillight, spare camera, mounting blades - read my note on