A barn is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building you can store various kinds of garden supplies, barbecue, garden and home care products, and tools. If you really want to, you can even install a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

With proper preparation, building a shed will not take much time or money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are recommended to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to construct.

Instructions for arranging a frame shed will be given below. Read the instructions and get started.

Choosing a location for a shed

When choosing a location for your shed, use personal preference. Some owners prefer it when the barn is located in some nook of the site. For others, it is more convenient when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a shed on an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various types of agricultural crops. You can find a similar place in almost any area.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a shed, take into account the location of other zones of the land plot, take into account the dimensions of the building being erected and its external data. Try to ensure that the shed fits well into its surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.

Set for work

1. Wood processing machine. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Hand-held circular saw.
4. Electric planer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Chain Saw.
8. Boards.
9. Logs.
10. Ruberoid.
11. Fastening elements.
12. Switches.
13. PVA glue.
14. Sockets.
15. Oilcloth.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

Columnar, monolithic, strip and pile-screw type bases are suitable for arranging a shed. A columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to this particular design.

Mark the area for the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

Using a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

Dig holes 500-700 mm deep around the perimeter of the marked area, in the corners, as well as at the intersection points of the internal partitions (sometimes deeper, depending on the level of soil freezing) for installation. The optimal spacing of the pillars is 1.2-1.5 m.

Build supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are installed evenly using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand-gravel mixture to approximately 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space.

Leave the foundation to gain strength for several days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support columns with a special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future shed. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. This product is simply more convenient to use - untreated areas will be clearly visible.

Place a timber support on the dry base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the shed being built.

Base - foundation and perimeter made of timber

Lay the timber on support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing felt). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.

Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to cut out parts of the boards near the vertical posts as carefully as possible.

Attach the boards to the floorboards “in secret”.

When determining the required number of support posts, take into account the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.

Place the beams strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the required position. Use nails to temporarily fasten elements together. Hammer them in approximately half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties in dismantling the temporary supports.

Attach vertical support posts to the bottom frame frame. Fixation is carried out using corners, self-tapping screws, and pins extending from the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are built around the perimeter of the foundation, and then wooden vertical posts are installed on them.

Use an electric planer to plan the three inner sides of the vertical beam. Bevel the sides facing the interior of the shed. Leave untreated only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding

Attach the top portion of the shed frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the timber according to the size of the posts. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, barns are equipped with roofing structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side should exceed the length of the opposite supports.

This placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Build a roofing structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

In the places where the rafters meet the beams, make cuts first. Lay the rafters on the frame and secure with self-tapping screws. The installation pitch of the rafters is 40-50 cm.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach batten boards to the frame. Boards measuring 2.5x15 cm are optimal.

A roof made of boards requires a mandatory layer arrangement. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finishing coating, use polyethylene film for waterproofing.

Choose the finishing coating at your discretion. You can lay corrugated sheets, euro slate, etc.

Lining is suitable for covering the walls of a building; chipboard, boards and other similar materials can also be fixed. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then line the side and rear walls. Attach the boards without gaps.

If necessary, sand the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Typically, such treatment is only needed when covering walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain will linger much less on a smooth surface.

If you wish, you can paint the walls of the shed. Oil and water-based compositions are best suited for painting such buildings.

Carry out the interior arrangement of the finished shed at your own discretion. If the building is intended to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, leftover furniture, etc.

At this point the barn is ready. All you have to do is bring it to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Good luck!

Prices for popular types of corrugated sheets

Corrugated sheet

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands

The barn is the first and most necessary thing to begin with in the development of a plot of land. At first it will be a shelter from the weather, a workshop and a sleeping quarters. And then he will take on his main responsibilities of storing gardening tools, crops and household supplies. Perhaps it will also accept domestic animals.

Building a shed with your own hands is not God knows what kind of science, that’s what this article is about. It is much more difficult to immediately position it correctly, taking into account the prospects for your own development and the layout of neighboring plots. The barn is a source of pollution. If initially there were no plans for mice in it, then where is the guarantee that chickens, or even a bull, will not appear there over time? In modern dense buildings, it is difficult to meet sanitary standards, especially considering the future. You may have to build a mobile shed in the fall (see below), and in the spring put it where you need it forever: it’s not so easy to guess right away so that it doesn’t turn out to be an eyesore later.

Take a look at fig. How much is there! An earthly paradise, and that’s all, not a manor. Now take the scale: standard 12 acres and a house of 120 square meters in plan, 80 residential. Having acquired land, they argued all winter about where to start, where to put things. The family's income is average; There was no way to settle down for our own without selling future agricultural products. It was assumed that within 3 years there would be only a barn on the building site, so it had to be built cheaply, but thoroughly. The garage was moved to the far corner and estimates for the road to it were made reluctantly, but there was no other way to fit a garbage dump with a cesspool into sanitary standards, and also ensure access for a garbage truck to the tank and a sanitation tank to the septic tank.

Since the construction was carried out for themselves, they decided to protect themselves from infection not only formally, but also in essence, for which purpose they planted a walnut over the utility yard with the barn. This tree exudes a lot of phytoncides, so nothing really grows under it or around it, but there are no flies and rats either; In addition, in summer it provides excellent shade. Near Lipetsk, the nut had to be nursed for a long time, but in the 8th year it still produced a harvest, by which time the arrangement was completed. Which is what they noted at the pond, taking a sip of what is supposed to be from the cellar; The cellar next to the recreation area came in very handy. And it all started with a barn...

What's first?

The family in question had not previously demonstrated any strategic abilities in themselves. Indeed, without being able to delve into the details, it is impossible to cover the problem globally and achieve success. A simple shed can provide invaluable experience here if you immediately perceive it as the beginning and fundamental basis of future well-being. In general, although the shed itself is not complicated, its construction must be taken with great responsibility. Especially in preparation for construction. Step-by-step preparation for the construction of a barn occurs as follows:

1. We get our bearings and talk to our neighbors. The goal is to find the best place for the shed: so that it is not very far away, but also does not stick out in front of your eyes and fits into sanitary standards for distances to water sources and other objects susceptible to contamination (residential buildings, plantings of agricultural crops, especially root crops);
2. Suddenly there is no clarity on point 1, we are building either a mobile shed or a temporary shed from cheap waste material. However, it is possible to build a shed at the dacha from slabs or used boards that is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to refine until it gives it a quite attractive appearance, see below;
3. If you have decided on a place for a barn right away, we choose the type of upper structure, taking into account the possibility of having pets;
4. We select the roof for the “box”;
5. Determine the type of foundation;
6. We are designing a shed based on the terrain. The latter is especially important, because supervisory authorities do not stand on ceremony with sources of pollution;
7. We reduce (compile) estimates for construction and decoration;
8. We may adjust the project if the barn does not fit into the budget;
9. We may also be considering the option of self-building with subsequent legalization. If the shed obviously complies with SanPiNs (Sanitary Rules and Norms), then it will be cheaper and easier than building it initially according to the project;
10. We buy materials and build.

What to do with the project?

A barn is a lightweight, pre-fabricated, unheated non-residential structure, from which important consequences that make things easier follow. We will talk about them for construction later, but for now you need to know that when registering/legitimizing the greatest quibbles and difficulties should be expected in relation to the location on the ground in accordance with SanPiNs. The actual design of the barn should include sheets with facades, a plan with sections, see track 2 in Fig. and a plan diagram of the foundation with a specification of materials for it, as in Fig. with plan sections.

As a rule, free shed projects from the RuNet are approved without anything and then no one ever thoroughly checks what is actually built there. It looks like a project, and ok. Deviations from the project in construction are acceptable, but in “small-scale construction” you can do without approval. But the layout plan for the site is studied very carefully, as are the plans of neighboring sites and their consent to construction. So make sure to collect these papers in advance, they are valid for 3 years.

Perhaps the corrosive bureaucrat will require another sheet with the frame structure, because... It’s not residential, it’s not residential, but people go there. In such a case, for a sample, see the drawings in Fig. By the way, this is not a bad shed for a 6-acre dacha. In extreme cases, you can sleep there, lying down diagonally.

Note: It is not necessary to list small fasteners (nails, screws, angles, staples) in the bill of materials for the drawings, because it is purchased as it is spent. It is also not necessary to indicate soft roofing materials costing up to 3,000 rubles. If, say, 2 rolls of roofing felt are spent on the roof, then it will cost up to 1000 rubles, so we also classify it as purchased as it is spent. Keep only sales receipts, in case they come to the rescue.

About temporary sheds

A good-quality wooden shed without a foundation weighs up to a ton; with a pitched roof and if you build it carefully, but not like a merchant, you can fit in half a ton. You can move it on rollers along the sleds, see picture, using a crowbar, you can move it together. To lift and place on the base using straps (ropes), 10-12 strong men are enough. Although, who knows, the subsequent treat for this crowd will cost more than renting a truck crane...

What is the point of this, besides the fact that you can build anywhere at first? Moreover, in this case the project is needed no more than for a doghouse, and for it it is not needed at all. If it stands for a year, then later, on the foundation, they will legitimize it, as long as it fits into the SanPiNs.

However, here the question arises for yourself: how to put it on the foundation? We should put them on anchors, but not dismantle the building in order to push them through the crown? There is a way, see below for details.

What to build from?

What building materials are best for a shed? Strong enough, durable, inexpensive and easy to work with? First of all – boards. A barn can be built from boards alone, see below. Unedged boards are cheap, and a structure made from them can look quite neat and even elegant in the spirit of rustic design, pos. 1 in Fig.

Note: even cheaper than the “uncut” croaker. It is also possible to build a shed from it alone, see the video below. True, it is more difficult to bring it to an exquisite “rusticism”. The most difficult part of the work is debarking the croaker, i.e. clearing it of bark; it requires a special hand tool, see the next video.

Video: slab barn

Video: cleaning the slab from bark

Frame shed, pos. 2 in Fig. above, the most common, because The technology of small frame construction is well mastered by private developers. However, to assemble a frame from timber, as for other at least temporarily inhabited buildings (these, by the way, include country toilets with showers), pos. And in Fig. on the right, not necessarily. More precisely, based on strength requirements, it is mandatory for mobile sheds. And if the structure is placed immediately in its place, then the frame can be assembled from only boards, poses. B. This will make the construction much cheaper if unedged and used boards are used.

Sometimes a country shed is sheathed with OSB for the sake of aesthetics, pos. 3, or plywood. These materials are susceptible to delamination in the open air, so before painting, a shed with OSB lining must be properly primed, and a plywood shed must be treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion.

Capital barns, especially livestock ones, are most often built from foam blocks, pos. 4. Their lower strength compared to bricks does not play a role in this case, but a shed made of foam blocks is cheaper, easier to work with, warmer in winter and cooler in summer. If you choose one, keep in mind:

• A shed made of foam blocks can be built on a columnar foundation with a wooden crown, like, for example, a bathhouse.
• No more than 3 lower rows are laid on cement-sand mortar, and above that you need to switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete. The structure is light, and the upper cement joints, which are weakly loaded vertically, can break under lateral wind pressure.
• Having laid the walls to a third of their height, work is interrupted until the masonry mortar hardens, so that the masonry does not float at the seams. The same break is made for 2/3 of the masonry.

Kits of parts for quick-assembled plastic sheds, pos. 5. However, the prices, to put it mildly, are puzzling, firstly. Secondly, for some reason, living creatures in such sheds do not take root. Perhaps for the same reasons, whatever they may be, why people do not live in plastic houses.

Choosing a roof

What kind of roof to cover the barn: two- or one-pitched? The first has an exclusively aesthetic advantage. There is always a miasma in the barn. Let's be honest, work clothes are not washed every day. And not even every week. But sweet apples and boiled potatoes emit ethylene, which is far from harmless and safe in high concentrations. There is no need to talk about pig chickens.

A pitched roof will provide effective ventilation without any additional measures, on the left in Fig. Suddenly the wind blows into your forehead, the visor becomes an air intake and squeezes unnecessary fumes into the cracks. And under the gable roof they will swirl for quite a long time before leaving through the drag window on the right there. In addition, a pitched roof is much simpler and cheaper. Therefore, it is highly advisable to build a lean-to barn. The exception is if there is a hayloft in his attic.

Base

A temporary shed without a foundation is placed on a crushed stone cushion 25-40 cm thick. It is poured flush with the soil surface, removing the humus. However, a durable shed still needs a foundation that is reliable enough for this type of structure, inexpensive and not very labor-intensive.

Sheds are rarely built on slab foundations: for a conventional foundation they are too labor-intensive and expensive, and in a cowshed or pigsty it is difficult to arrange stalls and a manure pit on a slab. Large livestock barns made of brick are built on a strip or columnar-strip foundation, but for small private farms this is probably unnecessary.

The optimal foundation for a barn is columnar, see fig. Technology of its laying (this is the name of the process of building a foundation); We will analyze here, make this work easier and simpler for the shed. The step-by-step arrangement of a columnar foundation for a barn looks like this:

1. For concrete, we purchase sand and gravel mixture (SGM) from road workers (not builders), it is much cheaper than construction sand and gravel separately. Concrete on the PGS is not suitable for a residential building, but it will be suitable for a barn;
2. We also purchase M400 cement at the rate of 1 bag per 9 bags of ASG. The concrete will be M150, enough for a shed;
3. On the site we make cast-offs from 1 (yes, exactly one) cord on pegs;
4. We check it as usual, by comparing the diagonals and measuring the sides;
5. Using the hydraulic hose level, we find the highest angle and set the distance of the cord from the ground surface to 10 cm;
6. Using the same level, set the cast-off horizontally;
7. In the lowest corner we drill a hole with a 200-mm hand drill to the calculated depth plus 15-25 cm for a sand-crushed stone cushion;
8. We make a mark on the drill rod;
9. We drill the remaining holes until the mark on the drill matches the cord;
10. We fill the wells with equal layers of sand and crushed stone, compacting each layer. ASG cannot be used here, because the solution being poured should penetrate slightly into the crushed stone;
11. We roll up pile sleeves with a diameter of 150 mm from 2 layers of roofing material. We fasten them with 2 mm soft wire. To prevent the sleeves from bursting when pouring, you need 3-4 strapping belts per 1 m of their length;
12. We put the sleeves in the wells. Place the stones vertically;
13. We cut the sleeves, using metal scissors or large tailor's scissors, flush with the cord;
14. We prepare reinforcement cages: 3 (10-12) mm corrugated rods per post, tied with the same 2 mm wire. The vertical pitch of the bundle is 200-250 mm. The distance from the inner edge of the sleeves and their top is usual, 30-50 mm;
15. We place the frames in sleeves and position them so that they do not touch the walls;
16. Mix the concrete using an ASG until it becomes creamy thick;
17. Fill the pillars layer by layer, in layers of 15-20 cm, with a break of 10-25 minutes. between layers. This is called a hydraulic seal fill. In practice, the layers are poured in order, starting from the same column;
18. Before pouring the last (penultimate) layer, we place anchors in the pillars;
19. On the 3rd day we backfill the soil with a tamper. Be careful not to knock the posts off the vertical!
20. On the 7th day (the concrete has gained 50% strength), construction can continue. On the 20th day, at a temperature of 15-25 degrees, the concrete will gain 75% strength and the structure on it is considered suitable for use.

Topside

So now we're building a barn. For example, such as in Fig. It will also fit in a 6-acre dacha without any problems, but it’s a little larger: you can sleep well in it, and there is a compartment for tools. In the future, perhaps for a woodshed or poultry house.

For novice builders, as a rule, the difficulty is not in reading drawings and diagrams, but in how to put their hands to all this? Unaccustomed to carpentry, not roughened by calluses and not provided with special tools? We will dwell on this in more detail.

Frame connections

The barn, as stated above, is non-residential and in general, from the point of view of SNiP (Building Rules and Norms), is barely a structure. Therefore, it is possible, without fearing anything either in essence or on paper, to use thin-walled metal connectors for wooden parts. Regarding residential buildings, SNiPs are merciless: their metal parts must be at least 4 mm thick. This is dictated by fire resistance requirements: in the event of a fire, the building must resist the fire until it collapses for at least a time sufficient to evacuate people. It's easier with a barn.

Mitrel, claw and tenon connections (items 1 and 2 in the figure), which require special tools and sufficient carpentry skills, do not need to be used. If you still have to, you can reinforce it with hardware not with a square or an envelope, but with a pair of nails/screws diagonally (in the inset there) or lengthwise if the part is narrow.

Connections on stamped corners (crossed out in red) without inserting wooden parts are not entirely reliable on joists and ceiling beams, because They are not adapted to shear loads, and the corners themselves are quite expensive. Perforated plates, pos. 3. They can be bent in any way you like, including: and pockets holding vertical stresses. How do you like the ceiling in Fig. on right? No cutting and cutting of tenons and grooves with painstaking calculations and inevitable mistakes for a beginner, but keep an elephant in the attic.

Perforated plates for embedded anchors are especially good, also at pos. 3. Remember the question: how to place a finished shed on a foundation? Now it's clear how.

Nail plates, pos. 4 allow you to save even more on fasteners, but, firstly, they can only be used flat. Secondly, fastening them requires skill so that the nail bends do not wrinkle. The nail plate must either be gradually hammered evenly over the area, or, conversely, immediately driven in with one powerful and precise blow of a sledgehammer.

Note: for permanently loaded shear joints, e.g. floor joists, it is still better to use special thin-walled joist pockets or pockets for joists, pos. 5.

About the casing

In terms of all technical parameters, the best cladding for a barn is plank. Technologically, it is also not complicated if it is sheathed in a cut pattern (“herringbone”, see figure). And it is very cheap if the board used for the cladding is unedged, and what such sheds come out of in skillful hands can be seen in some figs. in the article.

Only boards

Many timber merchants sell boards cheaper than timber, because... More of them come out of one forest. In addition, if you have a circular saw, it will not be difficult to separate cheap unedged ones into measured ones. Therefore, a shed made entirely of boards is a very pressing issue.

How to solve it is shown in Fig. below. Plank beams can even be assembled from scraps, pos. a) and b). The intermediate posts are made box-shaped (pos. c) for internal partitions, and T-bars (pos. d) frame window and door openings.

Is it just boards?

Sheds made of corrugated sheets are most often sold ready-made on a metal frame, pos. 1 in Fig. In general, this is not the best option: such a barn is stuffy in summer and cold in winter. But perhaps, for economic reasons, you will settle on this design. Then you need to take into account that a thin profiled sheet in a building structure will not serve as a working cladding and the wooden frame of a shed made of corrugated sheets needs to be reinforced.

Actually, strengthening the frame will not cost extra money and labor; it is enough to install braces across the entire wall of 40 mm boards, not flat, relative to the lower crown, but edgewise, pos. 2. In this case, there will be a door and a window in the front wall. If there is only a door, then its opening is made in the middle and the jibs are placed on both sides of it.

The struts are not cut into the racks, they are simply nailed. Horizontal slats as thick as the board are placed under the sheathing; When crossing with the braces, breaks are made in the sheathing. The sheathing is attached to both the sheathing and the braces.

Note: It is highly advisable to adjust the dimensions of the shed and the selected corrugated sheeting so that the depressions of the waves of the vertical sheathing fall on the corners. Then they are attached directly to the corner posts, which will give some additional strength to the structure.

The same type of frames can be sheathed with small unmeasured boards: container board (item 3), scraps. You can make a very cute shed out of just about anything in different ways. For example, lighten old boards as described below, sand them, stain them with stain and stuff them in an artistic mess, pos. 4. Or paint the boards separately, creating geometric patterns, or dream up something else.

Very “bad” boards

Old boards are dark and unsightly. The frame of a shed can be whipped up literally from garbage, pos. 1 in Fig. The result will be a painfully familiar bawdy shack, pos. 2. However, if you inherited one from your great-grandfather, but is still quite dilapidated and crooked, it is not so difficult to bring it to a form similar to that in pos. 3:

• Take out the window, remove the door.
• Support the corners from the outside with struts made of poles, aligning the pillars. If it doesn’t go any further, it’s not necessary, why ruin something that is strong?
• Inspect carefully and secure with self-tapping screws. We don’t touch the old nails, let them rust until the end.
• Remove the roof and roof sheathing.
• Treat the entire structure with wood brightener (regenerator).
• After 2-5 days, treat with another biocidal impregnation, drying oil or, in extreme cases, treatment.
• Varnish with acrylic varnish if desired. There is no need to paint, the “rusticity” will go away, and the “crookedness” will disappear in all forms.
• Install a new window, hang a door, lay a roof.

About lightening wood

Wood restorers are made from bleach. Therefore, if lumber is processed individually, you need to work in the air or in a well-ventilated area. There is no need to apply the composition with a spray, as is often written in the instructions (they seem to be compiled by marketers, not forestry engineers), everything around will be splashed with a caustic liquid. Treat with a brush; best of all - plaster plaster; it absorbs a lot of solution and releases it evenly.

We reached the roof

The advantages of a pitched roof for a shed have already been discussed. If you are more satisfied with a gable roof, then its rafters will be quite sufficient with one suspension without crossbars, pos. B in Fig. The material everywhere is 100x50 timber or 100x40 board. The Mauerlat is not needed; the rafter trusses are attached to the beams of the upper frame on the corners or bent perforated plates. All parts of the truss are connected in the same way.

It is not worth cutting the tops of the legs into each other, as usual (pos. A), nor is it worth fastening the ridge corner of the legs with a steel plate: the first is too difficult, the second is weak. The roof ridge is formed, firstly, on the ground with gussets (pos. B1) from scraps of boards from 20 mm thick. The scarves are placed on both sides, secured with 12 screws, 3 for each half of the scarf. And the final strength of the rafter structure is obtained after installing a ridge girder made of 2 boards, pos. AT 2; it is nailed or screwed to the legs, 2 attachment points per leg.

About sheds for livestock

Sheds for productive domestic animals require a separate description, and one for each species. A cowshed with a pigsty and a chicken coop are combined only geographically on the same farm yard. From the point of view, so to speak, of general barn construction, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, that animal droppings are chemically aggressive, release a lot of ammonia (especially poultry and pork), and its consistency and drying speed are significantly different. In any case, manure must be removed as it arrives and stored, because Any kind of it except pork is a valuable fertilizer.

The first thing that follows from this is that the barn for livestock must be well ventilated, located in accordance with SanPiN and legalized. Further, a heavy pig or a young bull, scratching itself on a corner, will create considerable loads in the structure. A dairy cow weighing half a ton is not yet a giant among its kind, and it comes from 4 hooves, the supporting area of ​​which is much less than 1 square meter. m. That is, about human according to SNiPs 250 kg/sq. We need to forget and take into account the real load.

Finally, goats are known to be not averse to eating pieces of wood. For the barn to be completely eaten up, this has not been noticed. But the bactericidal and water-repellent impregnations required for wooden buildings will not benefit them until they die.

So, a chicken barn can be structurally ordinary, but with good ventilation and chemical resistance; for pigs - also wooden, but on a reinforced timber frame, for example, as in rice; For goats, a wooden shed is undesirable, but for cows, in addition, it must be warm, because... a freezing cow gets sick easily and will not give a good milk yield; in general, it is preferable to build a barn for livestock from foam blocks on a strip foundation. A sheepfold may be simpler, but sheep breeding in small private farms is not developed in the world, because... It is only profitable on a large enough scale.

About woodburners

Good natural ventilation is also necessary in a woodshed: the calorific value of wet wood fuel drops sharply, causing heating costs to rise, and a boiler using wet wood will fail faster. For ease of use, woodsheds are most often made as an extension to the house, pos. 1 in the figure, or on the veranda, pos. 2. If this is unacceptable for aesthetic reasons, then a firewood shed is built in accordance with the mode of use and/or climatic conditions.

For a seasonal dacha, inhabited from spring to autumn, with low and irregular fuel consumption, you need a woodshed with wide roof overhangs (from rain) and a solid floor raised above the ground by at least 0.4 m, so that the firewood does not draw in moist fumes from land. It is also highly advisable to remove the humus underneath and cover the soil with waterproofing, pos. 3.

In places with harsh continental winters, preference should be given to ventilation, pos. 4. Ice, as is known, sublimates (turns into steam without melting) even in the Siberian frost, only slowly. But in areas with mild and even more so “rotten” winters of the Mediterranean type, firewood needs to be properly protected from precipitation, pos. 4, turning the woodshed with its rear towards the prevailing winds.

How to save on foundation

Look again at Fig. with a columnar foundation. Doesn't it seem like there are a lot of pillars? Yes, the load-bearing capacity of such a foundation under a barn is excessive, even if it is made of M75 concrete. But there seems to be nowhere to go: if you place the pillars less often than every 1.5-1.7 m, then the lower crown will not receive proper support. And the foundation, as anyone understands, is the most expensive and difficult part of the barn. So, it is quite possible to erect a 3 by 3 m barn on 5 pillars instead of 9, without losing at all in strength.

Let us take into account again that a barn is a non-residential, utility building and non-standard technical solutions are permissible in it. And, remembering what we learned at the university, let’s first turn the flooring from a panel into a membrane. This ingenuity can be easily implemented by hand: we lay the floor from tongue-and-groove boards from 100x40 to 150x40. It is more expensive than edged timber, but the savings on poles will be many times greater than the overexpenditure on timber.

Then let us remember that a triangular membrane is much stiffer than a square membrane of the same area. As a result, we will get the lower crown, as on the left in Fig. There is no need to tinker with trigonometry when calculating oblique grooves: they are marked in place by placing a board on the frame. The floor is laid without joists, directly along the crown beams, from edge to edge. Two 3x3 modules can be brought together for a 6 by 3 m barn, but there is no need to sculpt a large structure from such modules: the calculation is valid if the cells have no more than 1 common beam. There are additional conditions:

1. Frames are only timber frames 100x100 mm; prefabricated ones made from boards are not suitable.
2. The vertical frames of the module are supported with struts made of 100x40 boards flat on steel fasteners without any insertion, except for the one where the door will be.
3. For a 6x3 shed, additional vertical posts from the same board are needed in increments of 1.5 m (not shown in the figure).
4. The flooring of the 6x3 frame is made of boards 6 m long lengthwise, so that the floor boards are solid.
5. It is highly advisable to place corner posts (the same timber 100x100) on the so-called. quarter tenon, reinforced with corners, see fig. on the right is higher, and the large intermediate 6x3 frames are half the tree, as marked in the diagram.

In addition

A do-it-yourself garden shed is the easiest way to get the minimum required level of comfort in the shortest possible time. When the first joy of acquiring a plot has passed and the question of real development of the plot becomes a question, the utility block is the first necessary building. While the residential building is just being built, it will serve as a place to store all the necessary equipment. And after construction is completed, the barn can retain its original functions, fulfilling the role pantry, and become a place for storing firewood or, for example, chicken coop.

How to choose a barn for a summer residence: considering options

Often, the construction of a barn begins the development of a site, so by this time it is necessary to already have a detailed plan diagram, which will indicate the location of all planned buildings: a residential building, a bathhouse, a gazebo, garage, barn, etc.

Advice! Since a summer cottage usually does not have a large area, it is better to combine all outbuildings to save space - build a shed that will combine the functions of a storage room, toilet and shower. This decision is especially justified at the initial stage of construction.

There are several approaches to choosing a place to build a shed, for example, near the border of the site, behind the house, in order to hide the utility block from prying eyes. In addition to the house, additional camouflage for the barn can be provided with the help of a plot. Another option is to place the shed near the house so that you don’t have to run across the entire site for every little thing. Very often, a place is allocated for a shed, which for various reasons (shade, north side, poor soil) is the worst suited for planting trees or growing garden crops.

Let's look at some of the most popular options for garden sheds.

Ready-made container utility unit

The fastest and least labor-intensive option is to purchase a ready-made shed (house) in the form of a ready-made prefabricated/dismountable utility unit. This is a monoblock structure (usually a container type), which is based on a rigid metal frame, which is sheathed on the sides with metal, and insulation is laid in the walls, and electrical wiring is already installed in it. There are many options - it can be just a small storage shed, or a multifunctional utility unit, including a toilet, shower and even a place to relax, and some models provide a removable canopy, which makes it possible to make a small veranda.

To install such a container utility unit, pouring a foundation is not required; a columnar foundation or simple concrete blocks will be quite sufficient. In a ready-made form (although it may require minimal assembly of internal communications, for example, connecting hoses to water collectors, which can be done independently), it is delivered to the site; installation will require a truck crane. Outwardly, such a barn does not look very attractive, but thanks to its reliability, durability and mobility, such a utility unit can be sold after the construction of a residential building is completed.

Summer residents mainly use a barn as an outbuilding. Tools, equipment, fertilizers and other materials are stored in this building. This structure can be made to order. However, a DIY frame shed will be cheaper. If the owner of a dacha has enough free time, he can quickly erect a structure.

Exterior of a classic frame barn

Make a rough estimate in advance so you know how much it will cost to build a utility structure.

Before you start figuring out how to build a frame shed, there are a few more steps to take. Construction must begin with a definition. It is better not to focus attention on the barn and hide it behind the country house. The approach to the barn should be free: it should not be cluttered or planted with plants. It is recommended that you consider moving away from a residential structure.

Then, even in bad weather, it will be convenient to approach the shed to take the necessary tools. - an important document that records all the main points of future construction. It can be standard or custom. The project is ordered from construction organizations or drawn by yourself.

Project of a frame shed with a woodshed

Consider a few tips for choosing a suitable location for your shed:

The project will allow you to determine not only the appearance and interior design of the premises, but also the cost of the building as a whole.

Reasons to choose this design

A frame outbuilding has a number of advantages:

Collecting the base

Building a good-quality shed is impossible without assembling a solid foundation. The site intended for the construction of the structure should be carefully leveled. Do it step by step:

The crossbar is made of 15 x 10 timber, and the fastenings are made using metal corners.

Lifting walls

Plastic version

When an outbuilding is urgently required, then a ready-made barn sold on the market can be used. Plastic structures are easier to assemble than structures made from other building materials. You need to agree in advance with specialists so that they will do the installation themselves if you cannot do the assembly for some reason.
Capital construction will last for many years, however, it also has disadvantages:

1. Construction takes a long time.
2. The cost of constructing the structure is quite high.
3. A person without work experience must first find out how the phased construction of a structure is carried out. Inept actions lead to additional labor and material costs.

If the instructions do not seem clear to you, try to understand them again.
An alternative structure made of plastic is much easier to assemble.

Project of a frame shed covered with plastic

Lightweight construction can be considered a worthy alternative to structures made from other materials. A plastic shed has all the advantages of a frame building. The structure is easy to assemble and disassemble when required. Plastic is different from wood: rain or irrigation water will not spoil the material and will not cause rust. This shed can be assembled in the spring and disassembled in the fall.

It is erected on a summer cottage in accordance with the rules for the construction of buildings of this type. The barn must be located at a distance of at least 3 m from the neighboring dacha and 5 m from the road.

Otherwise, everything is done at the discretion of the owner: the main thing is that he is comfortable. Today, finished products can be painted in different colors. They have different dimensions. The owner of the dacha can easily find a suitable design for himself in accordance with his plans.

Drawing with dimensions of a frame shed for a summer residence

The assembly of a plastic structure is carried out quickly, since there is no space underneath it. It is enough to prepare a foundation made of crushed stone or a sand-gravel mixture for future construction and compact it well.

Roof construction

Decide which type of roof is best for your shed:

• single-slope;
• gable.

After this, begin to build the selected structure. Let's look at an example of constructing a pitched roof.

Selection of roofing materials

A reliable roof today can be made using readily available materials. Today, roofing materials on the market are presented in a huge range, and finding the right option for yourself in terms of price and quality is not a difficult task. Among them, slate sheets are considered traditional.

Main characteristics:

Modern industry produces several types of slate, both standard and non-standard. The most common brands of roofing material:

• UV (unified profile);
• VO (regular profile);
• VU (wavy profile).

Modern manufacturers add various coloring pigments during production. Slate sheets turn out bright. The paint on the surface of the products does not fade over time.

Differences between slate and ondulin

Ondulin is a roofing material that is harmless to health. In terms of service life, it is practically no worse than slate sheets. It is also available in a wide range of colors.

However, slate has a number of advantages compared to ondulin:

• Slate sheet is harder, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• Slate has excellent corrosion resistance;
• This roofing material practically does not heat up even in the midday heat. Its heat transfer coefficient is very low;
• Remarkable maintainability. Damage to slate sheets is easy to repair.

Polycarbonate roof

More recently, polycarbonate was a new development. Today this building material is available to everyone. Why should you choose it to make a roof for your shed? Polycarbonate roofing has no restrictions in terms of implementing design ideas.

An example of a frame shed sheathed with polycarbonate

Polycarbonate bends well, so the roof can easily take different shapes. If you want your outbuilding to look unique, take advantage of all the possibilities of polycarbonate construction. The material is made universal by its unique properties:

• Strength;
• Plastic;
• Optimal UV protection;
• High fire safety;
• A light weight;
• Ability to withstand significant loads;
• Service life of at least 15 years;
• Ability to transmit sunlight up to 89%;
• Resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• Easy processing;
• Easy installation;
• Low cost.

The project can be quite cheap if you just want a place to store your gardening tools.

Construction of a frame shed for equipment

When the owner wants to place a photo workshop or office in the utility block, then the price of the object increases. In the first case, construction will be at minimal cost: the owner of the dacha can only make do with improvised materials that he got as a result of dismantling an old collapsed barn. In the second case, investment is inevitable.

This is the only way to create a cozy and comfortable room in which you can do what you love or work in solitude, when no one will distract you.

Step-by-step instructions allow you to build the desired structure of a frame shed. A well-made project is a guarantee of long-term operation of the premises, provided that the construction is carried out in accordance with all norms and requirements. Do not try to choose very cheap building materials on the market.

Ready-made project of a frame shed covered with clapboard

Price is not the only criterion you should consider. Take products from well-known manufacturers who have proven themselves well in trusted places.