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​Or maybe he’s just young and healthy.”​

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This happens to me too, I don’t think it’s a disease, but poor overwintering and high pruning of frozen buds. The raspberries have bloomed, produced half-dried berries and are dying. But the shoots grow lushly? Or is everything drying up for you?​

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​http://fazenda.sam-stroy.info/garden/1417183193.htm​

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But there is another fungal disease of raspberries -

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indasad.ru

Why do raspberry branches and berries turn yellow and dry out?

The raspberries began to bear fruit, but the branches immediately began to dry out and disappear, although the young shoots grow without problems. What to do? How to save the remaining ones?​

IngaMus

​To the beginning​

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​improves the function of the intestines and stomach, and also has a diaphoretic and antiseptic effect. It has antipyretic and anti-inflammatory functions.

​In addition to the vitamins, microelements, and antioxidants contained in raspberries, they contain salicylates, i.e. similar compound to aspirin. Therefore, decoctions are used as a diaphoretic, and therefore an antipyretic. It contains astringents, therefore it has a hemostatic effect and helps with intestinal disorders. And in general, it increases the tone of the body. Identify the pest immediately by looking at the stem. The stem swells in the place where the raspberry gall fly once laid a larva.​ ​How many raspberry pickings have you already done? Three, five, eight?​

​A Russian's dream is to spend a million.​ ​.​ ​. In this case, the raspberry shoots may become purple-bluish in color and dry out even along with the berries. This disease is transmitted from plants such as tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants. Therefore, it is better not to plant raspberries next to them and immediately plant them if this is the case.

Raspberries can dry out for several reasons. ​6​ ​Back​

bolshoyvopros.ru

The raspberry leaves along with the berries gradually began to turn yellow and dry, branch by branch.

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​Even a simple conversation with the mention of raspberries will certainly cause a response from the body, and for good reason: even a few berries eaten on an empty stomach can stimulate the pancreas, which performs important functions in the body, in particular, it controls digestive processes. In scientific circles, there is a theory for the prevention of diabetes mellitus, which is based on the mandatory consumption of dried raspberries, or, better yet, blackberries. Raspberries are not as rich in ascorbic acid as, for example, gooseberries or black currants, but they have no equal in terms of the content of biologically active substances (not to be confused with dietary supplements!). Read more...​

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​Tea from raspberry branches​
This is a raspberry stem galitz. She lays eggs at the top of a young shoot during flowering. The tip of the shoot can be seen to wilt. They need to be noticed and cut to a healthy place. If you miss it, it goes lower, and the shoot dries out and breaks.​

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​Fruiting ends, strength is exhausted. The fruits were broken during collection. The remaining berries are cooked in the heat.​
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​either there is not enough moisture, or maybe pests, or disease is also possible

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Raspberries can also get sick

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​Firstly, of course, insufficient watering, and this reason is easy to fix.​

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always elegant

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​Garden blackberry is a unique plant with spectacular, large, sweet and aromatic fruits. It is highly resistant to the most common plant pathogens in our region, therefore, as a rule, it does not require special treatments. And this, in turn, allows you to receive rich harvests of environmentally friendly berries every year, without much hassle.
​decoction of raspberry branches​
​very useful.​
​And which branches to use: old or young shoots?​

The new shoots take all the juices, since they have common roots.
There are two options: either the soil is depleted (raspberries love nitrogen), but nitrogen fertilizers and humus must be applied in spring or autumn, or pests have attacked. A soap solution of laundry soap helps me.​

​EVERYTHING IS FUCKED ----AUTUMN!!!​

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Is tea made from raspberry branches healthy?

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​helps well with coughs.​

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Tea made from raspberry branches and leaves is extremely beneficial. This tea is useful for acute respiratory diseases and to improve immunity. An infusion of leaves helps against diarrhea and stomach diseases.​ ​I finished collecting it yesterday. I'm waiting for it to dry out so I can trim it.​

​fusarium​

​Auntie, have you heard of Google?​

​. Then its stem thickens. They must be cut off at the root and burned.​

Or there may not be enough nitrogen fertilizers. All this is easy to change.​​To the end​

​3​​A generally recognized favorite of gardeners and summer residents, raspberries can be confidently called one of the most necessary berry crops on the plot. You can enjoy its tasty and extremely healthy fruits from the beginning of summer until frost, and raspberry jam and tea with raspberry branches can quickly stop the “slush” under your nose and treat colds in the autumn-winter period. From raspberry bushes with different colored berries (black, red, orange and yellow) planted in a group against the backdrop of a lawn or a stone wall, you can obtain harvests and create original decorative elements - colorful leafy berry “bouquets”. However, all this “raspberry abundance” can be achieved in a short time only with proper planting and reasonable agricultural technology, which many, unfortunately, often neglect. More details... But more often it is used not with raspberry branches themselves, but together with berries and leaves. Then the effect is much better.​

​"Or maybe I drank tea from raspberry branches,​

bolshoyvopros.ru

Pour boiling water over the raspberry branches and leave for 1 hour. Drink it as a remedy for a sick stomach (heartburn, abdominal pain) one cup 3 times a day.​

Many gardeners who grow raspberries on their plots often encounter the fact that the foliage of the bushes begins to turn yellow prematurely, and the shoots, for no apparent reason, begin to dry out. It is impossible to unequivocally answer why this phenomenon affected plants, but some factors can be identified.

Raspberry is a fruit-bearing shrub, which, like many other garden plants, is susceptible to all sorts of diseases. Most often, you can tell that a raspberry is unhealthy by looking at its foliage: it turns yellowish, dries out, and in some cases curls. In most cases, it is possible to rid a bush of these ailments with complex treatment, but prevention, as many know, is better than cure.

Causes of raspberries drying out

The drying process is called dieback syndrome. The main cause of raspberry stem dieback syndrome is damage to shoot gall midges and infection with phytopathogenic fungi that cause diseases. The death of the stems is manifested in the fact that after overwintering, all or individual buds, part of the stems or entire stems grow weakly, their growth is greatly retarded, or they wither before fruiting. Severely damaged and affected stems dry out and die. The process is especially intensified in dry years. Often the syndrome leads to the loss of up to 60% of stems and about 70-80% of buds. Young plantings cannot begin to bear fruit normally.

This syndrome is facilitated by physiological cracking of young stems during their development, which allows the spread of shoot gall midge larvae and a complex of phytopathogenic fungi. Cracking of stems increases due to lack of moisture in the soil or uneven plant growth accelerated by fertilizers. In such cases, mulching the soil is useful.

It protects plant roots and delays cracking to a later date. In this case, cracks in the stems become accessible only to the last generations of shoot gall midges, when the most critical period for damage and infection of raspberries has passed, and the plants themselves acquire physiological resistance to fungi. Mulching, of course, can significantly improve the growth of stems, but at the same time they do not ripen well in waterlogged conditions, lose frost resistance, and the damage to plants by gray rot is activated, which is one of the factors of death. Various types of mechanical damage can also serve as a gateway to infection. At the same time, growth cracks and mechanical damage in the absence of gall midges and fungi are overgrown. For this reason, the raspberry shoot gall midge plays a key role in the development of stem dieback. Its larvae destroy the periderm, the main barrier to the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the internal tissues of the stem. In case of severe infection by fungi, ulcers from the feeding of numerous larvae can ring the stem, disrupting sap flow and causing its death. In addition, as a result of damage to the cambium, growth stops in places of damage, depressions are formed, which can cause the stem to break off.

Raspberry pests

Raspberry shoot gall midge is the most dangerous pest of this crop. In the spring, insects lay eggs in crevices in the bark of the plant. White larvae develop from them. While feeding, the larvae secrete toxic substances that cause the formation of galls - swellings, and the bark becomes severely cracked. The growth of raspberries slows down due to damage, the shoots dry out and break under strong gusts of wind. Over time, the larvae fall to the ground, wrap themselves in cocoons and grow into adult insects. In one season, the pest can go through three development cycles. To combat it, it is necessary to destroy infected shoots in the summer, when the larvae are most numerous. It is also recommended to spray the soil under the bushes twice with a 0.15-0.3% chlorophos solution. This is done the first time when the soil warms up to +13 °C, before the insects fly out, and again 10 days after the first spraying.

How to treat raspberries, when and how against gall midges

Treatment of raspberries against shoot gall midges is carried out in the spring, before emergence occurs. It is important to have the event on time, otherwise secondary infection will occur. Treatments are carried out in late to mid-April, when the soil warms up to +10...+12 C. When using modern means of protection, carefully read the instructions: the temperature at which the drug is effective must be indicated.

The shoots are sprayed, especially in the lower part, the tree trunk circle, and the green parts, especially the lower tiers, are thoroughly treated. Processing is carried out after collection.

Before flowering, they are treated with drugs of the peritoid group, with a wide spectrum of action - insecticides Karate, Calypso 480 KS, Mospilan 20 SP, as well as Konfidor, Iskra, Arivo, etc.

Of the old products, not very recommended due to high toxicity - 0.75% solution of karbafos, as well as fufanon, decis, BI-58. It is strictly not recommended to use higher concentrations, especially for repeated treatments. Treatment with Bordeaux mixture is also often recommended - it is not always effective.

When using all drugs, it is important to remember the high toxicity of any of them. Carefully weigh the harm from losses and the harm that can be caused by frequent, uncontrolled, excessive use of drugs. It’s easier to change the planting material, cut out the plantation at the roots - believe me, this is the most effective way for mass distribution than spending money on ineffective or expensive drugs.

Raspberry diseases

Phytopathogenic fungi are a special group of plant pathogens. They are characterized by a simple structure and very small sizes (tens or hundreds of millimicrons). Viruses consist of protein and nucleic acid, do not have cells, envelopes, or protoplasm, and have a stable circulation in nature. The source of the viral infection is infected planting material, and during the growing season it is spread by carriers - insects (aphids, leafhoppers) and mites.

Once on the plant, viruses multiply and cause sudden changes in metabolism. Viruses are so closely associated with the host plant that it is very difficult to combat them, since substances that destroy viruses are also toxic to plants. Therefore, the main measures to protect berry growers from viral diseases are preventative (growing healthy planting material, destroying vectors).

The use of chemicals in protecting raspberries

The chemical method of protection is the most dangerous in environmental, sanitary and hygienic terms. It is necessary to strive for minimal use of pesticides, using previously environmentally friendly (pesticide-free) options for crop protection. With the correct selection and preparation of the site, the use of healthy, high-grade planting material, and the observance of agricultural technology for raspberries, it is possible to completely abandon pesticides or not use them for a number of years. The minimal use of pesticides is facilitated by the possibility of combining treatment periods against various pests and diseases. In particular, eradication treatment with 2% nitrafen in early spring is a universal measure against shoot gall midges, bud moths, aphids, mites, and fungal diseases.

And eradicating treatments with 7% urea and 4% Bordeaux mixture are very effective against fungal diseases at the same time, but have little effect on harmful insects and mites. Currently, a variety of drugs are available for retail sale. Not all advertised pesticides are approved for use, that is, tested and safe on raspberries. In particular, insecticides that are widely distributed in trade such as Decis, Inta-VIR, Ambush, Tsimbush, as well as fungicides - Arcerid, Polycarbacin, Oxychome, Topsin-M, Tilt on raspberries are not allowed for use. On fruit-bearing raspberries, you cannot use such fungicides as Bayleton, Ridomil, Fundazol, Euparen, Topaz and insecticides - phosphamide (Rogor, Bi-58), Fozalon, Karate, Mitak, Neoron. However, in non-fruit-bearing plantings, in raspberry nurseries and mother plants, these drugs are allowed and can be effective. The following pesticides are most often used on raspberries: actellik, karbofos, neoron, nitrafen, sulfur, Bordeaux mixture.

Safety measures when working with pesticides are generally accepted for other crops.

Raspberries are an unpretentious shrub, however, errors in agricultural technology, coupled with bad weather, can create ideal conditions for the proliferation of pathogenic fungi or insects on the bushes, which most often causes premature drying of plants.

When the first small areas of wilting appear on raspberry bushes, it is important to immediately carry out comprehensive treatment measures, however, preventive measures are more effective and less toxic, which is what our article will be about.

Why do the stems dry out, how to deal with it

Moderate cracking of the shoot bark is normal for raspberries if it occurs on mature, woody stems at the end of the season. But with a lack of moisture in the soil, as well as with intensive fertilizing, young shoots begin to crack already at the beginning of summer. Cracks and mechanical damage to branches become “entry gates” for the penetration of fungi, as well as larvae of shoot gall midges.

Fungal ulcers, forming ring growths around the stem, impede the movement of sap, as a result the branch dries out. Dents that arise from the destruction of the inner layer of the shoot by fungi contribute to its weakening, thinning, and breaking off from the wind.

Shoot gall midge lays eggs in cracks in the bark of young branches. The waste products of the larvae are strong poisons that lead to the formation of tumor-like growths - galls on the shoots. The bark in this place cracks greatly, the branch, weakening, eventually dries out. At a certain stage, gall midge larvae fall to the ground, pupate, and then turn into insects, which again lay eggs on the bark of the shoots. Thus, several cycles of plant infection may occur during the season.

If fungal growths or galls are detected on raspberry stems, the affected parts of the shoots are cut out and burned, the soil under the bushes is regularly loosened and mulched. In the spring, when the earth warms up to 12 degrees, before the insects fly out, it is treated with a 0.1-0.3% chlorophos solution, after two weeks the treatment can be repeated.

The lower part of the shoots is treated in early spring, as well as after picking the berries. During the budding period, insecticides are used: Calypso 480 KS, Karate, Konfidor, Iskra. The frequently used Bardos liquid will be of little effectiveness in this case.

In case of large-scale damage to the raspberry tree, it is strongly recommended to remove the plantation and plant the raspberry tree in a new place, since treatment will be more expensive and also toxic to the soil and the crop.

Why berries dry out and how to deal with it

Shrinking and drying out of berries can be observed for many reasons: it may be the absence or lack of moisture in the soil, lack of mineral fertilizers, thickening of the bushes, or the growth of raspberries in 10-15 years. But if the raspberry plant is young, and all agrotechnical conditions are met correctly, in a timely manner, and the berries still dry out, then the cause may be viral diseases. Most often, the causative agents of viral chlorosis, yellow mosaic or curl from diseased plants are carried by aphids, mites or cicadas.

With chlorosis, the berries become dry, hard, small, tasteless, and unattractive.

Yellow mosaic is a viral disease that slowly but surely leads to the death of the plant. The berries become dry, taste insipid, and ripen one-sidedly.

Curly or Witch's broom is also difficult to treat; the berries, as a rule, become sour, dry, quickly crumble, the brushes wrinkle and dry out.

Why do leaves turn yellow and dry, how to deal with it

Raspberry leaves can change color prematurely and wither due to harmful impurities in rainwater, from watering with cold tap water, or from soil depletion. However, if the berries also dry out and fall off, then most likely the plant is affected by viral or fungal diseases, such as root canker, raspberry mosaic, curl, viral or physiological chlorosis.

With root canker, the leaves begin to turn yellow from the lower tier of the bush; with mosaic, the leaves become small, lumpy, and covered with dark green and light green spots of irregular shape. When curled, the leaves become smaller, become brittle, wrinkled, and a bronze tint appears on the inner surface. With chlorosis, the leaves turn yellow first along the veins, then become completely yellow.

To prevent drying of berries and leaves, sucking insects - carriers - should be combated. Treatment of diseases with drugs is ineffective, so it is recommended that when the first signs of infection appear, uproot the bush completely, removing it from the raspberry tree.

Chlorosis, methods of its treatment

Viral chlorosis manifests itself on raspberries as prematurely yellowed leaves, dry, hard, tasteless berries, as well as thin, low, poorly developing shoots. There is no treatment for viral chlorosis, bushes with roots are dug up and burned, and nicotine sulfate preparations - 0.2% solution or 3% nitrafen solution in early spring or 0.1% emulsion of 30% methyl mercaptophos before flowering are used to combat insects that spread virus.

Physiological or non-viral raspberry chlorosis is the result of violation of the rules for cultivating the bush. For treatment, it is enough to feed the raspberry tree with nitrogen and potassium fertilizers, bird droppings at a rate of 1:12, add peat and forest soil to the soil, and temporarily refrain from fertilizing with manure and superphosphate.

General methods for preventing raspberries from drying out as a result of damage by diseases and pests:

• preventing waterlogging or drying out of the soil in the raspberry field, thickening the bushes;
• mulching, loosening the trunk circle of the bush;
• timely fertilizing of the soil in optimal dosages;
• phytosanitary pruning of infected shoots;
• uprooting, burning affected bushes, or, as a last resort, changing the location for a new raspberry tree;
• treatment of raspberries against sucking insects - carriers of infection;
• purchasing healthy planting material.

How to plant raspberries correctly so that they do not dry out in the future

Raspberries are grown on plains or hills, in a well-lit place by the sun. The soil must be fertile with low or neutral acidity. For planting raspberries, do not use areas where potatoes, strawberries, strawberries, and raspberries were previously grown, much less contaminated areas. When purchasing seedlings, you need to carefully examine their root system and above-ground parts; when planting, cut off the shoots, leaving 20-25 cm from the root.

Choose varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests, follow the conditions of agricultural technology when planting and growing raspberries, and then nothing can deprive you of the harvest and the pleasure of the hassle on the site. And remember - any disease is easier to prevent than to cure.

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​○raspberry-strawberry sawfly.​

​.​
​) are noticeable on the branches and form cracks in the bark in which the larvae feed.
​raspberry gall midge
​Since raspberries are usually planted for at least 8 - 10 years, it is advisable to completely plow the area for it 1 - 2 months before planting, adding humus or rotted manure (10 - 12 kg), potassium sulfate (30 - 40 g) and superphosphate (50 – 60 g). This will allow the plant roots to receive nutrition evenly, and the gardener will be freed from the need for fertilizing for the whole year. But in practice, many people prefer to plant this crop either in planting holes (40x40x40 cm) or in trenches (depth 40 - 50 cm, width 50 - 60 cm), into which fertilizers are applied. Fertile soil in trenches (pits) can be additionally “diluted” with compost, sawdust, dry twigs and a small amount of ash. When marking plantings, a distance of 2–3 m should be left between the rows, and 0.8–1 m between the plants in them, in order to provide the raspberries next year with good aeration, illumination of the shoots, the possibility of winter shelter (you will need to bend the shoots) and application fertilizing between rows. More dense planting is permissible only in separately planted groups of 3 to 5 plants, since in a large raspberry field it can cause a decrease in yield, the appearance of diseases and pests.​
​Theoretically, all berry bushes, including raspberries, are recommended to be planted in the fall, because it is after autumn planting that they take root better and develop more actively in the spring. The optimal time for raspberries is considered to be the last ten days of September - the first ten days of October, although for seedlings with a closed root system, planting time does not play a fundamental role. However, in practice, in each individual case it is advisable to take into account factors such as climatic conditions, characteristics of varieties and planning the timing of the first fruiting.​
Fertilizing raspberries is a must for quality care. Every year in spring or autumn, add 5 kg of humus, 20 g of potassium sulfate and 25 g of superphosphate per 1 square meter. meter. If raspberries grow slowly, then it is worth feeding them with manure or bird droppings at the beginning of summer. For remontant raspberries, all fertilizer rates must be doubled, since they require more nutrients for active fruiting.​

Raspberries are a traditional Russian berry. It is not only sweet, aromatic and incredibly tasty, but also incredibly rich in all kinds of vitamins, proteins and organic acids. Its widespread use in cooking and folk medicine speaks for itself, and every good domestic gardener, if he considers himself one, is simply obliged to have several bushes of this magical plant in his garden.​

​Purple spot is not a rare fungal disease of all types of raspberries. Stems, buds, leaf petioles, and sometimes the leaves themselves are affected. Spots form on young stems and side shoots. At first they are small, vague, light purple, without a border. Gradually the color darkens to red-brown. The middle of the spot always remains light, with protruding black dots - pycnidia. Over time, the surface of the stains becomes covered with cracks. The affected areas quickly enlarge, merge and cover up to half the length of the shoot, ringing it in width. Diseased shoots dry out and break. The buds on them may not develop at all.

- other fungal diseases.

Gardeners who grow raspberries on their plots often encounter this phenomenon: both the shoots and stems of this plant suddenly begin to dry out right in the middle of summer, for no apparent reason. What's the matter, why do raspberries dry out?

Here are the possible reasons: raspberry sawfly, raspberry bud moth, raspberry beetle, raspberry stem fly, raspberry stem gall midge, raspberry stem gnat, purple spot (didimella), raspberry anthracnose, viral and mycoplasma diseases.​

Then the raspberries are mulched with a layer of humus and sand (5-8 cm).

After leaf fall, all annual shoots are inspected and those on which galls are found are cut out to the base.

​. The insect is very small - only 2 mm, and the larva is slightly more than 3 mm.​

Immediately before planting, raspberry seedlings need to be cleared of leaves, trimmed, leaving a length of 20 - 30 cm, and it is advisable to dip the roots in a creamy mixture of clay and mullein with the addition of root (heteroauxin). Planting should be carried out without deepening the root collar (only on sandy soils can it be deepened by 2 - 3 cm), since this can subsequently lead not only to stunted growth, but even to the death of plants. In order not to damage the renewal buds, when planting, the soil should not be compacted too much with your feet, only lightly with your hands. If the soil was well moistened before the procedure, it is not necessary to water the raspberries; it is enough to immediately mulch the bushes with sawdust, shavings, peat, etc. - this will help keep the soil loose and moisture with a minimum of watering.​

​Since raspberries are moisture-loving and do not like heat, in the south it will be “more convenient” for them to take root during the period of a long wet autumn and mild winter, because spring in such regions is characterized by hot, almost summer weather, which causes the buds of not yet rooted seedlings to bloom and strongly weakens them. In the northern regions, the weather conditions of spring are more suitable for the growth of raspberries, since the onset of frost here in the fall is difficult to calculate, and winters are often harsh and snowless. Although, if the autumn planting is not too late and the seedlings are provided with shelter, they will be able to overwinter quite successfully. In the middle zone, the presence of snow cover in a raspberry field is considered an excellent protection against frost for established plants, but here it can also be a “double-edged sword”: under a layer of snow that is too thick (over 50 cm) the raspberries can become damp. To avoid this, it is recommended that plants planted in autumn winter under an air-dry shelter or postpone the planting procedure to another time of the year.​
Raspberries are quite easy to propagate. Cuttings with buds, both lignified and green, root cuttings and suckers are suitable for this. The cuttings are cut to the very root, dipped in a solution of a growth stimulator and planted for rooting. Root shoots are separated when they grow to 15 - 20 cm, and this usually happens in early June. They are carefully dug up and planted in a new place. Since the weather is already quite hot by this time, the seedlings need to be watered daily until they take root. To propagate by root cuttings, take a root 0.5 cm thick and cut it into pieces of 20 cm, which are planted in a prepared groove.
Raspberry is a perennial shrub, the number of varieties of which has already reached four hundred, many of them are resistant to severe frosts and droughts. They differ in terms of fruit ripening, size and color of the berries, which can be not only the characteristic crimson color, but also yellow, orange and black.​

​The spores of the fungus begin to ripen in late July or early August. If the weather is humid, they infect all new plants. The pathogen overwinters on diseased buds and shoots. The development of the disease is especially favored by excess humidity and heavy dew, as well as damage to bushes by stem gall midges. Old specimens older than eight years are more susceptible to the disease.​

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Raspberries: planting, care.

All raspberry varieties prefer areas well lit by the sun. If the plantings are very dense, the bushes begin to shade each other. They lack nutrition and, as a result, some of the stems die to allow the rest to continue to develop.​

It is almost impossible to answer the question unambiguously - there are too many factors that can cause premature wilting and death of raspberry bushes. Let's look at the most common reasons:

​Here are the methods of control: cutting out raspberry stems with galls of stem gall midge and affected by raspberry fly, collecting and destroying weevils and raspberry beetles, spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture before flowering and after harvesting against fungal diseases, 5% urea before bud break against purple spot, inta-vir against aphids, weevils and other pests.​

​The question is closed because it is a duplicate of the question "Why do raspberries turn yellow? Why do raspberries dry out?"​

Of course, all fruit-bearing shoots are removed to the soil level.

​Initially, colonies live under the bark, leaving brown, blackening spots at the feasting site. By the time the berries ripen, the damaged shoots dry out.

​After 2 - 3 days, it is recommended to check the level of plant depth in the raspberry field, correct it if necessary, and after the onset of persistent cold weather (usually in October), additionally cover the plantings with a layer (about 10 cm) of dry fallen leaves from trees, sawdust, pine needles, etc. Such mulching slightly delays the freezing of the soil and gives the roots additional time to grow, however, in the case of a rainy autumn with sharp frosts, there is a danger that the mulch will turn into an ice crust and the replacement buds and young roots will freeze out. In order to preserve the raspberry bushes that have not yet matured until spring without loss, they need to organize an air-dry shelter. To do this, a frame is made around the group plantings, on which the covering material will be attached, and in the raspberry field, supports are installed (as for a trellis) along the rows and wire is pulled over them at a height of 40 - 50 cm, which will support the shelter in the form of a “hut”. As a covering material, it is advisable to use roofing felt, mats made of reeds and reeds, or container cardboard: they are laid overlapping and covered with plastic film to prevent rapid wetting. Under such a “fur coat,” raspberries will overwinter well even in the northern regions with a snow thickness of no more than 35 cm, however, snow drifts above 70 cm will need to be reduced, otherwise the raspberries may not complete their dormant period, which next year will manifest itself in weak bud opening or less active growth of shoots. Please note: absolutely all varieties of raspberries need a “dry winter” after autumn planting, and delay in providing shelter, especially in combination with late planting, is fraught with death even for frost-resistant ones.​

​If we take into account the development cycles of this crop, then for better development it is advisable to plant it after the end of the growing season, when the plant finally ripens and clearly visible replacement buds appear on its root collar. For different varieties, this time may fall at different periods of autumn: the earliest specimens of summer raspberries (Lyashka, black Cumberland, etc.) form large replacement buds by mid-September, and most remontant varieties (Bryanskoe Divo, Polka, Brusvyana, etc.) ripens only towards the end of October. Unfortunately, planting (replanting) this crop, taking into account the ripening of the shoots, is generally only possible for experienced gardeners who already have a raspberry plant. Beginners have to be content with planting material that goes on sale in September - October, which may not be fully mature and therefore requires additional attention and care. In any case, when choosing a variety for autumn planting, it is advisable to pay attention to the characteristics of winter hardiness and the appearance of the seedling: it must have a healthy, well-developed fibrous root system 15 - 20 cm long and 1 - 3 (no more) mature stems 5 - 8 mm thick . It is better to postpone planting of non-winter-hardy varieties (Himbo Top, Cumberland) in the north and in the middle zone until spring. Before planting, purchased seedlings with an open root system should not be allowed to dry out - you need to wrap them with a damp cloth or grass, and plant them as quickly as possible.​

​Many gardeners are familiar with the situation when raspberry shoots appear in the most unexpected places. The fight against this problem comes down mainly to the regular removal of this unwanted growth. Meanwhile, there is a more effective way to resolve this issue once and for all. The fact is that such shoots form at a depth of 20 - 25 cm, and if you install a barrier, for example from slate, at a depth of 30 cm, the shoots will not form further than the fenced area.​

This shrub prefers well-lit places, and if there is a lack of light, fruiting will be rather weak. The soil should be fertile and light. When choosing a place for raspberries, it is important to be sure that the groundwater is deeper than one and a half meters, because the root system of the plant is quite large, and waterlogging is detrimental to it. Raspberries need to be watered regularly, but not too often. It is especially important to do this during periods of drought and during the formation of fruits and new shoots.​

How can you tell if raspberries are drying out due to fungi? The main signs are quite noticeable:

Raspberries need soil that has a sufficient supply of moisture. Sandy soils do not retain water well, and plants growing on them often suffer from a lack of water. If you do not water the raspberry plantings in time, they may begin to dry out when the plants around them still feel quite tolerable.​

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Planting raspberries in the fall.

- dense plantings and lack of light;

​Folk remedies are also used against pests: spraying with infusions of tobacco, garlic, laundry soap with ash, dandelion, onion peels, potato tops.​

​Perhaps, here one can suspect either a bacterial wilt disease or a viral wilt disease. Wilt begins with the appearance of spots on the stems, which later crack, the plant withers and dries out, and curl is characterized by coarsening of the leaves with their subsequent deformation. In both cases, the affected plants need to be dug up and destroyed.

​After harvest​

​Leaves the same sad traces

​In the spring (late winter), under suitable weather conditions, polyethylene is removed from the raspberry plantings, and after 5 - 7 days the rest of the covering material is removed. If green buds soon appear on last year’s shoots, it means the plants have successfully wintered, are healthy and are ready to grow actively. It is at this time that the stems need to be cut to the soil level so that the young raspberry bushes do not weaken before bearing fruit, but become stronger and form powerful new shoots.​

With timely autumn planting and successful wintering, you can get the first raspberry harvest next year, although experienced gardeners recommend abandoning it (cutting off the fruiting stems) in favor of the powerful development of replacement shoots and abundant harvests in future years. If you adhere to this recommendation, then you will be able to taste the first berries from summer varieties planted in the fall only after a year and a half (!), because summer raspberries bear fruit on last year’s shoots, which are cut off in the first year after planting. Of course, you can refuse such pruning and still pick a couple of berries from weak bushes, but it is better to go the other way - at the same time plant remontant raspberries. It bears fruit both on last year's shoots (in mid-summer) and on replacement shoots (in autumn), so even if the former are completely cut off, the harvest can be obtained on the latter within a year after planting. Of course, this approach does not imply industrial cultivation of raspberries and obtaining the maximum possible yields per unit area, but for economic needs any fruiting at an earlier date may be sufficient.​

​Proper and timely care of raspberries can make them quite resistant to many diseases and pests. If purple spotting, gray rot, or the raspberry beetle has attacked, modern fungicides will help the plants gain a healthy appearance.​

​The choice of seedlings is a very responsible undertaking, which must be approached with due attention. It is better to choose small specimens with two or three shoots and well-developed roots. It is important to quickly plant raspberry bushes after purchasing, after keeping them a little in manure or a root growth stimulator. If seedlings were purchased in late autumn, it is better to postpone planting until spring, placing the seedlings in slightly damp sawdust and leaving them in an unheated room where the temperature will not rise above +4 °C.​

- the bark of the shoots begins to crack and peel;

Raspberry bushes very actively consume nutrients from the soil. They need a lot of nitrogen, especially in spring and the first half of summer. Therefore, if the soil was not sufficiently filled with organic matter, mineral nitrogen fertilizers do not stay in it for long. This especially applies to light soils - sandy and sandy loam, where the situation is aggravated by the rapid leaching of easily soluble salts. By mid-summer, the reserves of this substance are depleted, and if they are not replenished with fertilizing, raspberries slow down their growth, shed their ovaries and begin to dry out.

- lack of moisture;

If the raspberries are watered sufficiently, then the cause of the raspberries drying out along with the berries may be a gall midge infestation; pay attention to the raspberry trunk; if there are swellings or cracks on the trunk, then this is a gall midge. During flowering and fruiting, do not process raspberries, just cut dry branches to the very roots, without leaving stumps.​

​○Perhaps there is not enough water, raspberries love moisture.​

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Why do raspberries dry out? Remedies for raspberry gall midge

• ​, and then in early spring it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 5-10 cm and sprinkle it with fufanon, diluting 15-20 ml in 10 liters of water.​

​raspberry stem gall midge​​Alas, raspberries cannot be called an undemanding crop, and the procedure for planting them in the fall is proof of this. However, the fulfillment of the above conditions can be considered the solution to the first and main part of the problem for planting a healthy, fully fruitful raspberry tree. The solution to the second part of this problem will depend on the desire of the gardener to pay enough attention to raspberries, but since this crop is very responsive to care, then with proper planting even the laziest amateur is unlikely to lose.​ ​If the issue of getting the harvest as quickly as possible is fundamental, remontant raspberries can be planted in the summer (in June), but then container vegetative seedlings grown in a greenhouse (to order from a gardener friend) should be used as planting material. Compared to ordinary seedlings that mature and are planted in the fall, container seedlings develop much faster after planting in the summer, form more powerful root and ground parts, and can produce their first harvest in just 2 to 3 months. In addition, by autumn they grow into fairly strong bushes ready for wintering, which in the south may not need winter shelter even in the first year, which is especially important when planting a large raspberry tree. However, it should be borne in mind that until autumn such planting material will require more attention and careful care - frequent watering, shading, etc., for which beginner amateurs are not always ready.​

​It is enough to remember a few simple rules for caring for this famous shrub, and every summer it will generously thank you with a tasty, healthy and rich harvest.​

Raspberries can be planted in early spring, before buds form, or in the fall, in September - October, when replacement buds have already formed. For raspberries, pits measuring 40x40x50 cm or trenches several meters long are prepared with the same parameters, into which seedlings are planted at intervals of 50 cm. Planting areas are first filled with rotted manure, then 60 - 70 g of potassium sulfate and 150 g of double superphosphate are added, to which you can add 300 - 400 g of wood ash. This volume should be enough for 3 - 4 planting holes or a linear meter of trench. After planting, raspberry seedlings are thoroughly watered and trimmed so that their height is 20 - 25 cm. Mulching the soil will help the seedlings take root, and the soil will retain moisture and a loose structure. Regular care of young bushes consists of shallow weeding, removing weeds and timely watering. - gray, brown or purple spots appear on immature young branches; Raspberry gall midges, shoot and stem, are common in the central and southern regions of the Non-Chernozem Zone. Adults resemble mosquitoes and reach a length of 2 mm.​ - nitrogen starvation; Why do raspberries turn yellow, why do raspberries dry out?

​○Verticillium disease.​

​Before flowering​

​. Her galls (swellings in​Oksana Pershina, Smolensk: “Why did several plants standing nearby in the raspberry field turn yellow and wither in the middle of summer, although fruits had already appeared on them, and everything was in perfect order at first?”​

​The most desperate gardeners can be advised to “kill all the birds with one stone” - plant several container seedlings in the summer, and by the fall, focus on the number of survivors and plant summer varieties in the fall or supplement the rows of remontant ones. When deciding between summer and remontant varieties, it is advisable to take into account that remontant varieties have a long fruiting period (from mid-summer to frost) and greater resistance to diseases and pests, but summer raspberries have a very sweet taste and strong aroma. And compared to remontant summer raspberries, they are less demanding on soil fertility and multiply much more readily. Ideally, it would be nice to have both on the site, but for the first autumn planting in a private household, it is advisable to focus on a small number of specimens of one or two varieties in order to observe their development (winter hardiness, growth activity, suitability of the planting site, etc. .) and easily organize winter shelter for plants. And next autumn, if desired, several seedlings of a different variety can be planted next to the strengthened first batch. This approach to planting raspberries will make it possible to provide them with sufficient care, eliminate identified errors in a timely manner, and obtain harvests in the near future. However, the volume of these harvests can also very much depend on how responsibly the gardener treats the proper organization of the raspberry garden. The generally recognized favorite of gardeners and summer residents, raspberries can confidently be called one of the most necessary berry crops on the plot. You can enjoy its tasty and extremely healthy fruits from the beginning of summer until frost, and raspberry jam and tea with raspberry branches can quickly stop the “slush” under your nose and treat colds in the autumn-winter period. From raspberry bushes with different colored berries (black, red, orange and yellow) planted in a group against the backdrop of a lawn or a stone wall, you can obtain harvests and create original decorative elements - colorful leafy berry “bouquets”. However, all this “raspberry abundance” can be obtained in a short time only with proper planting and reasonable agricultural technology, which many, unfortunately, often neglect.​ ​In the spring, raspberries need pruning. It is necessary to remove all frozen parts of the shoots up to the first healthy bud. Trimming the tops by 10 - 15 cm will stimulate the formation of new fruiting branches. Pruning is generally beneficial for raspberries. Some gardeners recommend cutting off all shoots that had berries after fruiting, which will rejuvenate the bush and make next year’s harvest more abundant. ​

- around the peduncles and bases of the leaves, spots cover all the stems along the perimeter.

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Why do raspberries dry out along with the berries?

​The larvae of the shoot gall midge, transparent or milky-white at first, become orange-red at an older age and grow up to 3 mm. They overwinter in the ground, in its upper layers, near the base of the stems. Females appear already in the second half of May to lay eggs in places where the shoot bark is damaged or at the petioles of the lower leaves. The larvae live and feed in colonies, located under the bark. Brown spots form in places where they accumulate, and blue bark and cracks appear at the base of the affected shoots. The shoots gradually dry out.

Dried leaves in a raspberry garden are an alarm bell. Basically, this is how the activity of pests manifests itself; in case of severe damage, entire raspberry fields have to be renewed. Leaves also dry out due to diseases or errors in agricultural technology.

Dry leaves in raspberries can appear for various reasons, namely:

• Harmful insects: stem and raspberry gall midges;
• Purple spotting;
• Cancer of the root system, when there are convex growths on the roots, similar to swellings;
• Severe winter, during frosts the root system is damaged;
• Dry soil, raspberries react painfully to it, the leaves immediately dry out;
• The appearance of aphids on shoots leads to yellowing and death of foliage;
• Lack of nutrition can cause foliage to dry out;
• Thickened plantings also lead to yellowing of leaves;
• In the shade, raspberries that love the sun will be depressed, and the leaves will gradually begin to dry out.

First aid for raspberries

The greatest danger to the health of raspberries is posed by raspberry and stem gall midges. Insect larvae live under the bark in entire armies, the result of their activity is swelling and thickening on raspberry stems. At first, such stems are painted blue-violet, then they swell and the bark splits at the point of swelling. Such swellings are usually quite large, 2-4 cm, and are located closer to the ground. Damaged stems are visible after the snow melts. they are cut out at ground level and burned.

It is important to cut the stems at ground level, without leaving stumps that other pests may choose as an apartment..

If the shoots begin to wither and turn yellow, root canker is most likely to blame. The disease gradually affects the entire root system and the leaves, and with them the shoots, dry out.

Purple spot is also one of the unpleasant diseases of raspberries. The stems become covered with chaotic spots, the leaves wither and dry out. Such stems are also cut out, and the raspberry tree is treated with a solution of karbofos, including the soil under the bushes.

How to prevent raspberry leaves from drying out

In order for raspberry leaves to be strong and healthy, you need to follow a number of measures to care for the plantings. For a raspberry garden, you need to choose a sunny place, it should be well ventilated.

Several times a season they are treated against pests with drugs such as actellik and karbofos. Solutions need to be alternated so that insects do not get used to them.

The distance between plants should be at least half a meter so that all the bushes have enough food. The soil must be nutritious; spring mulching with fresh horse manure is allowed. In addition, ash, bone meal, compost and long-acting fertilizer with a full set of nutrients are added to the soil during planting.

When growing raspberries, at least three feedings are carried out per season, two of them should be nitrogen, this can be an infusion of grass, and one should be potassium-phosphorus. Before applying fertilizer, raspberry plantings are watered.

Raspberries are responsive to fertilizing; to prevent dried leaves, foliar fertilizing with herb infusion is carried out.

If dried leaves suddenly appear, inspect the soil under the raspberries. If burrows or passages of mole crickets are found, poison is placed in them.

If pests are detected on the leaves, the raspberries are treated with karbofos, clear weather and evening time are selected.

How to grow prolific raspberries

Raspberries are a fast-growing crop, so when serious diseases are detected, diseased bushes are carefully dug up.

Try to purchase seedlings from reliable nurseries. Inspect the plant carefully; it should have green, developed leaves and a stem without damage.

To prevent rust and other fungal diseases, in the spring before the soil blooms, the raspberry plant is sprayed with 1% Bordeaux mixture. The surrounding soil is also sprayed.

Diseased stems are cut out in a timely manner so that the infection does not spread to healthy bushes.