Name: comes from Latin lava– to wash, and reflects that the Romans added lavender to their baths for freshness and aroma.

Description: The genus contains about 25 species, only 2 of which have been introduced into culture - l. broadleaf (L. latifolia) and l. officinalis (L. officinalis). Both species contain fragrant essential oil in their flowers.

"Edelweiss"

L. latifolia is more thermophilic. It is grown in large quantities in the south of France to obtain lavender oil, which is used in medicine, veterinary medicine, perfumery, and also to obtain a special varnish used in painting porcelain. L. officinalis contains less essential oil, but its aroma is subtler, and it is considered more healing. In addition, this species is quite cold-resistant and is more often found in the temperate zone. In the CIS l. the medicinal plant grows in the south (Crimea, Kuban). Essential oil of this type is used to flavor the best varieties of soap, lotions, colognes, shampoos, and in the form of an alcohol tincture it is used as an antiseptic in medicine. L. officinalis was described in the 13th century and until the 19th century it was grown in monastery and princely gardens, as well as in modest gardens of townspeople precisely as a medicinal plant. In countries where old traditions of housekeeping have been preserved, lavender still occupies a place of honor. Its dried flowers, along with rose and jasmine petals, are added to some “floral” teas. Special porcelain vessels are filled with the same mixture. In winter, placed in a warm place, they spread the smell of summer in the room. Together with the leaves, the flowers are used to scent baths; they are placed in fabric bags in linen closets to give things a pleasant smell and to protect against moths. French gourmet cuisine includes an obligatory sprig of lavender in spicy bouquets for the table.

Lavender angustifolia (English)- Lavandula officinalis = Lavandula spicata L. (L. vera DC) =Lavandula angustifolia Homeland: Southern Europe. Photo by Olga Bondareva A perennial subshrub with a woody fibrous root reaching two meters in length, and numerous shoots up to 60 cm high, woody in the lower part. The leaves are opposite, dense, sessile, linear, silvery-greenish-gray, with gentle drooping. The flowers are small, bisexual, bluish-lilac or blue, collected in interrupted spike-shaped inflorescences of 6-10 flowers in whorls, which are located on the tops of leafless stems at intervals of 0.5-2 cm. Inflorescences are violet-blue to lilac, labiform The flowers smell pleasant and are collected in long spikes. Blooms in July - August. Winter-hardy plant (up to zones 4-5 with shelter). Seeds can remain viable for many years when stored in hermetically sealed containers. In floriculture, the variety L. is known. medicinal - delphinoid(var. deiphinensis), which reaches only 30 cm in height and has exclusively decorative silvery foliage. Lavender Hidcote- one of the most common types of English lavender, which is often used for low natural hedges. In addition, there are several varieties bred mainly in England, for example: "Alba" - white inflorescences, 50 cm; "Rosea" - lilac-pink inflorescences, 40 cm; "Munstead" - deep blue inflorescences, 40 cm, compact, reliable shrubs; "Hidcote Blue" - violet-blue, 40 cm, compact, reliable bushes; "Hidcote Giant" - up to 60 cm tall, characterized by a compact bush shape.

Lavender hybrid, or Dutch- Lavandula x intermedia = L. vera Very common in gardens, highly decorative hybrids (mainly English l. with other narrow-leaved species). Zone 5-8. A large plant with narrow silvery leaves. The flowers of this lavender are oblong, quite large, located on long peduncles, which often bend and bend under the weight of the flowers. Blooms later than l. English, in July. Flower varieties and colors: Alba (white) Arabian Night (dark purple or dark blue) Richard Gray (dark purple, compact plant) Sawyers (light lilac) Grosso (lilac-violet, large flowers) Photo by Polina Chuck

Lavender French, or broadleaf - Lavandula stoechas = L. latifolia (L.) Will. (L. spica DC) Homeland - Southwestern Europe. They are distinguished by their incredibly beautiful flowers, which come in different shades of purple, lilac, pink, burgundy, green and white. French lavender "Papillon" (Butterfly) Photo of Olga and Victor Riis French lavender is also very fragrant, but its scent is not as refined as English lavender and its hybrids. It blooms earlier than other types of lavender, in April-May, flowering continues until July, at the end of summer the second phase of flowering may begin. The cold hardiness limit of French lavender is zones 6-7. The most popular variety is L.s. pedunculata, which is also called the butterfly (Papillon) because of the shape of its flowers: they are located on long peduncles and consist of a massive oval head that ends in long bracts. Flower varieties and colors: Willow Vale (deep purple with crimson bracts, yellow-green foliage) Regal Splendour (dark purple) Helmsdale (lilac-burgundy) Rocky Road (purple-blue, large flowers, blooms in July, new variety) Tiara (blue with cream bracts, large flowers)

In central Russia and to the north, angustifolia lavender is grown. Other species are more thermophilic.

Location: grows well in a sunny, warm, even hot place.

Photo by Dubova Galina

The soil: dry, fresh, well-permeable, gravelly or sandy-clayey, moderately nutritious, contains lime. Lavender cannot grow in heavy clay soils with high acidity and high groundwater levels. The soil mixture is prepared light and fertile - from leaf soil, humus, sand, taken in a ratio of 3: 2: 1, adding to it Kemira-universal (complete mineral fertilizer at the rate of 20 g per hole).

Landing: plants are planted at a distance of 30 - 40 cm from each other. Planting depth 25-30 cm.

Care: cut regularly in spring. In dry weather, water thoroughly. In the conditions of central Russia, it must be reliably covered for the winter (spruce branches and pine needles are suitable). If, nevertheless, the above-ground part is frozen, it is cut off, and the plant, as a rule, is restored. The same pruning is used to regularly rejuvenate the bushes so that they do not become bare underneath. It is important to never prune too hard, to the point of limp stems, as the plant may die.

Reproduction: cuttings. Can also be propagated by seeds. Seeds require stratification for 30-40 days at a temperature of +5 degrees. Sow seedlings at the end of February - beginning of March to a depth of 3 mm. Seeds germinate in the light at a temperature of 15 - 21 degrees. Treatment with gibberellin (100 - 200 mg/l) gives a stronger effect. When the seedlings grow, they are planted in 5 cm increments. In May, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. You can sow seeds on the ridges in the fall, at the end of October. Shoots appear in the spring, at the end of May. For cuttings, lignified annual shoots are taken, cut into cuttings 8 - 10 cm long and rooted. To propagate by dividing the bush in the fall, the plants are cut to a height of 8 - 10 cm and covered with earth, carefully filling the space between the stems.

Lavandula x chaytorae "Richard Gray"
Photo of Shakhmanova Tatyana

In the spring, soil is also added to the bushes. During the summer, lavender produces abundant growth that takes root well. In the fall, the bush is dug up and divided. Another simple way to propagate lavender is by layering. To do this, in the spring, carefully bend 2-3 shoots and place them in a shallow (3-5 cm) groove, pin them down, cover them with soil and water them. During the summer, the ground here should be slightly moist. Usually next spring the shoot can already live independently and is cut off from the mother bush.

Application: on terraces, in gardens with fragrant herbs. Harvest lavender flowers as soon as they are fully open, when their color and scent will be most intense. Flowers should be dried in a shaded and well-ventilated place.

Partners: bushes or subshrubs that love dry soils. Grows well with roses. Ideal partners for lavender are the variety of plants in fragrant gardens and many plants with yellow flowers (they perfectly set off the deep blue and purple colors of lavender). For many years, traditional partners have been considered to be different types and varieties of fragrant Santolina, which is also called “cotton lavender”, with its yellow spherical flowers, and roses.

In the article we discuss lavender - planting and care in open ground, popular varieties, pests and diseases, propagation methods. You will learn how to plant lavender by seed, cuttings and dividing the plant, how to properly water, prune and fertilize the bushes, as well as how to care for lavender in winter.

There are many varieties of lavender to grow in your garden.

Lavender is an evergreen shrub of the Lamiaceae family with a fibrous woody root up to 2 m long. In the lower part of the plant there are a large number of lignified shoots up to 60 cm high. Silvery-greenish leaves with soft pubescence grow along the shoots. Fragrant blue-lilac flowers are collected in spike-shaped inflorescences of 6-10 pieces.

There are more than 25 types of lavender - varieties and species differ from each other in thermophilicity, shoot height, color range of inflorescences and flowering period.

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)- bushes up to 50 cm high with narrow leaves and small inflorescences. Blooms in June and July. It is considered the best variety for growing lavender in the Urals - planting and care are quite simple. Winter-hardy, withstands frosts down to -35°C. The varieties that are most in demand in horticultural culture are:

• Alba - white inflorescences;
• Rosea - lilac-pink inflorescences;
• Munstead - bright blue inflorescences.

Broadleaf or French lavender (Lavandula stoechas)- bushes with inflorescences of various shades, from purple and emerald to pink and white. It blooms in April and May, sometimes at the end of summer. The most popular varieties:

• Yellow Vale - dark purple inflorescences and yellow-green leaves;
• Rocky Road - large purple-blue inflorescences;
• Helmsdale - lilac-burgundy inflorescences.

Hybrid or Dutch lavender (Lavandula x intermedia)- large plants up to 2 m high with oblong flowers. Blooms in July. Used for growing on an industrial scale. The most commonly used in gardening are:

• Alba - white inflorescences;
• Sawyers - light purple inflorescences;
• Arabian Knight - dark purple or dark blue inflorescences;
• Richard Gray - dark purple inflorescences.

Toothed lavender (Lavandula dentata)- bushes with embossed silver leaves. Blooms in July. One of the most heat-loving species, grown only indoors. A popular variety is Royal Crown with purple inflorescences.

Planting lavender in open ground

Lavender can be planted in open ground with seeds and seedlings.

To ensure that lavender blooms profusely, choose the right planting location in open ground:

• the area should be well lit;
• avoid areas with too wet soil, otherwise make a drainage layer near the roots of the plant at the bottom of the planting hole;
• If the soil on your site is acidic or slightly acidic, add lime or wood ash to the holes for planting seeds.

When to plant lavender in open ground:

• seeds directly into the ground - at the end of autumn;
• seedlings - at the end of May.

Lavender seedlings

Before planting lavender seeds for seedlings, prepare a container and soil mixture. Mix 2 parts humus and 1 part river sand. Sift the mixture until all lumps disappear and place in the oven at 130ºC. Pour the treated soil onto a drainage layer in a container for growing lavender.

In February - March, scatter the seeds over the surface of the soil mixture, sprinkle with sand 3 mm thick, moisten with water and cover with plastic wrap. Place the container with the seedlings in a well-lit place with a temperature of 15-22ºC. Raise the cover periodically to ventilate the crops. When the first shoots appear, remove the covering and plant the shoots at a distance of 5 cm.

How to plant lavender in the ground in spring

At the end of May, prepare the area for planting. Dig the soil to a depth of 20 cm and loosen the soil well. Apply compost or peat under digging.

How to plant lavender:

1. Dig holes every 80-90 cm. The depth of each hole should be such that the root system of the bush fits freely into the hole.
2. Trim the roots of the seedlings.
3. Plant each bush in a hole and bury it.
4. Water all seedlings thoroughly.

Pre-winter sowing of lavender in autumn

Sowing lavender seeds in open ground is effective only in warm climates. If you have mild winters in your area, follow these rules:

• In October, prepare the soil on the site - add peat under digging and add sand or fine gravel if the soil is too wet.
• Sow the seeds to a depth of 3-4 cm.
• Compact the soil after sowing.
• In dry weather, water the seeds, but not too much.
• At the beginning of winter, cover the area with snow.

Lavender care

With the seed propagation method, lavender begins to bloom in the 2nd or 3rd year. To quickly see the long-awaited lavender flowers, plant and care for the plant taking into account the characteristics of its cultivation.

Growing conditions

Lavender roots need good air circulation, so make a mulch layer on the bed in the form of rotted leaves. Do not cover the soil at the base of the trunk with anything, so as not to cause the plant to rot. Mulch (compost) will gradually decompose and saturate the soil with nutrients.

When growing lavender in open ground, regularly get rid of weeds - pests, especially in the first year, when the seedlings are just forming.

When the first flowers appear on the stems of the plant, remove them so that the lavender root system can get stronger and develop normally.

Watering and fertilizers

Water the lavender as the soil at the base of the bush dries out. Do not be overzealous, because from abundant watering the above-ground part of the plant turns yellow and the roots rot. But don't do it too rarely. Due to lack of moisture, lavender flowering will not be lush, and the aroma will become less bright and rich.

If you do not use compost to mulch the soil around lavender, growing and caring for your garden should include fertilizers:

• mineral complexes - in summer at the beginning of flowering;
• nitrogen fertilizers - in the spring at the beginning of the growing season.

Dilute the fertilizer in a concentration of 2 tbsp. into a bucket of water and water the soil around the perimeter of the bushes with the resulting solution.

Trimming

Caring for lavender includes pruning the plant

Prune the plant every year:

• In the first year of planting, at the end of flowering, cut the shoots by 2-3 cm.
• At the beginning of autumn, shorten the branches by 3-3.5 cm. Make sure that the cutting level is 5-6 cm higher than the lignified part of the stem.
• In subsequent years, trim the lavender branches to the shape of the bush each fall.
• At the age of 10 years, do anti-aging pruning - shorten the branches to 5 cm.

Pruning your lavender bushes is optional, but caring for your lavender in your garden this way will help you create beautiful, lush bushes.

Lavender propagation

Lavender is propagated by seed, layering, dividing the bush and cuttings.

If you are going to grow lavender in the Urals, only the seed method is suitable for you. In cold climates, the following scheme for growing lavender is used: planting and care in open ground in the Urals is carried out after mandatory seed stratification, that is, hardening. The bag of seeds is placed in the refrigerator and then in April the seed is sown directly into open ground.

In warmer climates, lavender is propagated in other ways.

When propagating by cuttings, pick a one-year-old woody shoot from an existing lavender bush. Cut it into cuttings of 8-10 cm and plant in moist soil. Bury the bottom cut 2-3 cm into the ground and cover the top with glass jars. When the cuttings take root, remove the jars.

When propagating by division, cut the bush at a height of 10 cm in the fall and do hilling - fill the space between the shoots with earth. In the spring, repeat the hilling and wait until the lavender produces abundant growth. At the beginning of autumn, dig up a bush, divide it into parts and plant it.

When propagating by layering in the spring, bend 2-3 shoots from the plant and carefully place them in grooves to a depth of 3-4 cm. Secure the shoots, cover them with soil and water them abundantly so that the shoots form lateral roots. Next spring, separate the shoots with roots from the bush, divide them into parts and replant them in a permanent place.

For more information about planting lavender, watch the video:

Care after flowering in winter

Before caring for lavender, keep in mind that the plant needs reliable protection from frost. If you are growing lavender in an area with temperatures below -25ºC during the winter months, begin winterizing the bushes after autumn pruning. Cover the plant with branches of coniferous trees, but in no case with fallen leaves. Under the foliage, lavender may rot.

Pests and diseases

Lavender in open ground is highly resistant to pests and diseases. However, the plant sometimes affects:

• slobbering pennies;
• rainbow beetle (cycad);
• gray rot.

To rid the plant of beetles, collect them by hand, and when fighting pennies, wash off the white foam with a strong stream of water. In both cases, change the compost in the beds.

If the bushes are sick with gray rot, remove and burn the damaged parts of the plant, otherwise the infection will spread to other stems, flowers and leaves. Also reconsider the watering regime for lavender flowers - planting and care in this case were clearly carried out with violations. Either you watered the bushes too often, or did not protect the plant from waterlogging during the wet, rainy summer.

What to remember

1. The most popular varieties of lavender in gardening are English narrow-leaved, French broad-leaved, hybrid Dutch and scalloped.
2. When propagating lavender from seeds, seedlings are first grown, and then young shoots are planted in open ground in April.
3. In the Urals, before sowing seeds in the ground, they are hardened in the refrigerator.
4. Caring for lavender includes regular but not abundant watering, the use of mineral and nitrogen fertilizers and autumn pruning.
5. Before the start of winter, cover the lavender bushes with the paws of coniferous trees.

Lavender is an essential oil crop in the form of an evergreen shrub with characteristic spike-shaped inflorescences and narrow gray-green leaves. Its flowers can have a traditional lilac color of various shades, as well as white, pink or blue. This plant has a distinct odor, which, along with nectar, is very attractive to butterflies and bees. In addition to valuable honey-bearing qualities, lavender is also characterized by such properties as unpretentiousness, drought resistance and unattractiveness to pests. Growing this shrub in sunny and warm regions is not difficult; in colder areas, growing lavender is possible either in pots at home or in the garden, but subject to certain care rules. The average lifespan of a plant under natural conditions is about 10 years.

Types of lavender

Lavandula belongs to the genus Lamiaceae, which has about 45 species and about 7 hybrids. The natural habitat of this shrub is India, Arabia, southern Europe, eastern and northern Africa, and the Canary Islands.

In garden culture, the following types are considered the most popular:

• Lavándula angustifólia, known as Lavender true, English, spikelet, angustifolia. This shrub reaches 1 m in height and width, with the exception of dwarf varieties that grow no higher than 30 cm. Flowering time is June-July.

The most popular varieties are Alba (white), BeechwoodBlue (lilac blue), Rosea (pink), Gem (dark purple), Hidcote (dark purple), MelissaLilac (lilac grandiflora), Munstead (lilac blue), NanaAlba (white dwarf), LittleLottie (pale pink dwarf) and others.

• Lavanludalatifolia, or broadleaf lavender. The distinctive features of this species are considered to be a stronger aroma, as well as the carrying on the stem of not one, like angustifolia lavender, but three inflorescences.

• Lavanluda intermedia Emeric (Dutch Lavender, or hybrid, or Lavandin) is a natural hybrid of the two species described above. It is less cold-resistant, which is why it is most popular in the gardens of southern and central Europe. It is a large plant, reaching a height and width of up to 2 m, having large and long inflorescences and curved peduncles. The flowering time of this plant occurs a little later than that of angustifolia lavender - in July.

Particularly popular varieties are: Alba (white), Grosso (lilac-purple with large flowers), Sawyers (light purple), ArabianNight (blue, dark purple) and RichardGray (compact dark purple).

• Lavanluda pedunculata, or petiolate lavender, is an ornamental plant with unusual flowers and a strong scent. The peduncles of the shrub are usually no more than 50 cm, and the flowers have a bright purple color. The variety is widespread in Spain, Portugal, Turkey and Morocco; in Russia it is usually grown in pots.

• Lavanluda stoechas, known as Lavender stechada, can reach from 30 to 100 cm in size. This species blooms earlier than all others - March - June, and at the end of summer the second flowering phase may begin.

• Lavanluda dentata, or jagged lavender, is a compact subshrub with large flowers and soft, rugged, silver-colored leaves. Due to the fact that this type of lavender is quite heat-loving, it is grown mainly indoors in pots.

Propagation of crops using stem layering

This propagation method is considered the simplest: one of the branches of the bush is laid horizontally, completely covered with soil, and a load is placed on top. It usually takes several months for the cuttings to take root and be able to grow on their own.

After the root ball has formed, the cuttings must be carefully cut off with a sharp knife and the cut area sprinkled with crushed coal, thereby protecting the plant from rotting processes.

Reproduction is also possible by rooting individual, for example broken, branches or one-year woody cuttings: they should be deepened 2-3 cm into loose soil, covered with a film, not forgetting to regularly moisten the soil. As a rule, the cutting takes root quickly enough, after which it can be safely transplanted to the chosen location.

Growing lavender from seeds

Before planting, the seeds must be hardened and stratified. They should be kept in the lower compartment of the refrigerator for a month, then mixed with river sand and, systematically moistened, kept in this form for another month.

The seeds should be planted together with sand, covering the top with a not very thick layer of soil.

When planting seeds, you need to be prepared that you will have to wait about one or two years for flowering, since in the first seasons the plant will devote all its energy to growing the root system.

Place for planting in open ground

When planting a plant in a garden or flower bed, it is recommended to choose areas that have good access to sunlight. Lavender can also take root in the shade, but in this case you should not expect long and abundant flowering.

Particular attention should be paid to the level of soil moisture, since the roots of the plant are very sensitive to excess moisture. Wetlands and areas where groundwater flows too high are not suitable for planting crops. If there is no possibility of choosing a drier place, then drainage layers can be used.

The level of acidity and soil structure is another point to which lavender is very sensitive. In this regard, before planting the plant, it is recommended to add a little lime or wood ash to the soil, and regular use of compost will not only saturate the soil with nutrients, but also ensure the porosity of the structure.

Broad-leaved lavender is considered the most hardy and unpretentious, which can tolerate even slightly acidic soils and partial shade. When planting a narrow-leaved variety in the garden, you should be wary not so much of frost as of excess moisture and damping off.

Lavender care

The crop responds best to potassium fertilizers, while nitrogen fertilizing and manure are less desirable, since, while promoting the growth of abundant green mass, they negatively affect flowering.

The plant should be watered as the soil dries out, since excessive moisture can lead to rotting of the rhizome, and a lack of moisture can lead to less luxurious flowering.

Regular hilling and mulching of the shrub - in spring and autumn - plays a big role in the formation of new green shoots on the old trunk. In turn, systematic pruning can extend the life of the plant. Minor pruning is necessary immediately after flowering, but significant shortening of the stems should be done at the end of the season, leaving 4-5 new green shoots.

Gray rot is considered especially dangerous for lavender, which, together with the affected part of the plant, should be removed and burned. In addition, gray rot is a place for the deposition of pentilia larvae, which in themselves do not harm the crop, but spoil its appearance with white foam, which represents protection from predators. You can get rid of foam, which looks like saliva, on the plant by washing it off with a stream of water.

Lavender, which will have to winter outdoors in regions where the air temperature can drop below 25 degrees, needs to be provided with reliable insulation. In order to protect the crop from severe frosts, it is enough to trim the bushes at the end of the season and cover them with branches of coniferous trees. The layer of foliage, which is traditionally used to protect plants during the cold season, is not suitable for lavender, which can simply rot under it.

Features of planting lavender at home

Since the most demanding species of this plant are usually grown in pots, you should remember to the following conditions for planting and caring for them:

1. The container for planting should have a volume of 1.5-2 liters and a diameter of about 30 cm;
2. To ensure good drainage, place pebbles, shards, gravel, shells, etc. in the bottom of the pot or container, ensuring that the drainage holes remain open;
3. Lavender's need for alkaline soil can be satisfied by using a mixture of sand and peat with the addition of a small amount of crushed eggshells;
4. The room temperature should not fall below 15 0 C;
5. It is necessary to ensure that the plant receives sufficient sunlight; if this condition is not possible, it is recommended to use a fluorescent lamp;
6. Lavender should be watered with water at room temperature, previously settled, and it is necessary to moisten not only the soil, but also the green parts of the plant;
7. In winter, the plant should be watered rarely; in addition, it is recommended to keep it in a cool place, away from heating devices - this will have a positive effect on its flowering;
8. At the end of summer, it is necessary to completely remove dry stems and lightly trim the bush.

The young plant should be transplanted into a new pot in early spring, after the dormant period has ended. If necessary, you can replant lavender in early autumn, most importantly, after flowering ends and before the dormant period begins.

Applications and properties of lavender

This plant can be used as decorative borders, as well as a background plant in flower beds and gardens. Due to the fact that the lavender aroma is extremely unpleasant for the Colorado potato beetle and codling moth, this shrub can be successfully used as an excellent insecticide in vegetable gardens, especially between root crops.

Growing aromatic plants (video)

Dried lavender branches and inflorescences are often used for interior decoration, as well as for aromatizing rooms. This plant, especially its essential oil, has found its place in perfumery, cosmetology, aromatherapy, medicine, the food industry and cooking.

Genus Lavandula unites plants that originate from various regions of Asia Minor, the Mediterranean and North Africa. According to relevant studies, it is currently known about 50 types of lavender with their subspecies. Sometimes they can be very different from each other in appearance, aroma, and chemical composition of the essential oil. Within these species, a large number of varieties have been bred, incl. with flowers of different shades and different essential oil contents. Therefore, one lavender field has, for example, lilac shades, and another has blue shades. But when looking at photographs of such fields on the Internet, one should not forget that many photographers do not disdain artistic processing.

Many types of lavender are now used to obtain essential oil. The most famous among them: angustifolia lavender (L. angustifolia; l. officinalis; true lavender), broadleaf lavender (L. latifolia, l.spica), serrated lavender (L. dentata; also known as “French lavender”), stehada lavender (L. stoechas; also known as Greek lavender or Spanish lavender), Burman's lavender (Lavandula bipinnata (Roth) Kuntze; synonym - Lavandula Burmanii Benth.; grown in India), as well as lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia; a hybrid of angustifolia lavender and lavender broadleaf; it is also called hybrid lavender or Dutch lavender).

L. multifida (left) and L. angustifolia (L. angustifolia) in my garden.

Amateur gardeners are well familiar with one more species: L. multifida (multicut lavender; also known as "Egyptian lavender"). It is also used to extract oil, but the aroma of this plant has little in common with the familiar “lavender aroma”. This species is often called "annual lavender" and is suggested for growing in cold climates because its seeds germinate quickly and well, and the plant itself can bloom in the first year of planting. But all types of lavender without exception are perennial plants, and the natural growing region of multicut lavender is France, Spain, Portugal and North Africa. In these same regions, as well as in Greece, South Africa, Australia and other places with a suitable climate, it grows or is cultivated in our time. very beautiful type of lavender: L. stoechas.

Avicenna described the medicinal properties of this particular type of lavender in his great “Canon of Medical Science” (this work was created in 1012-1024 AD). This description is sometimes quoted on the Internet, and everyone thinks that it refers to English lavender, but this is not so. Descriptions of angustifolia lavender (English lavender) appeared several centuries later, although references to its use in everyday life and as a medicinal plant were found earlier.

L. stoechas is very popular as an ornamental plant, but it does not overwinter in cold climates. It is difficult to grow in open ground, even in some countries with warm climates. This lavender now has many varieties with different shades of flowers and bracts. Its subspecies, Seville lavender (Lavandula stoechas subsp. luisieri) is also used to obtain essential oil.

Photo from the brochure "Lavender Species and Cultivars" prepared by the University of Washington.

The most popular and versatile type of lavender is, of course, medicinal lavender. It can also be grown in cold climates. However, not all travelers know that now approximately 80% of lavender fields in France are fields of lavandin (hybrid lavender). For example, with its help, beautiful views of Senanque Abbey were created, well known to all lavender lovers. A lot of lavandin is grown in the vast expanses of the Valensole plateau - where the largest lavender fields in Provence are located. This plateau turns purple later than all the French fields precisely because lavandin blooms later than classic lavender.

Abbaye cistercienne Notre-Dame de Sénanque; active, founded in 1148. On the right is the essential oil, which is produced from lavandin grown in
this abbey. Photo: www.senanque.fr

As part of industrial production, lavandin was turned to consciously; special varieties were even bred for this purpose. Today it is grown in all “lavender” regions, especially in France, Spain, Italy, the Balkans, North America, and Australia. To obtain essential oil, three varieties of lavandin are most often cultivated: Lavandula x intermedia "Abrialis" (commercial name of the essential oil - "Lavandin Abrial"), Lavandula x intermedia 'Grosso' ("Lavandin Grosso") and Lavandula x intermedia 'Super' (" Lavandin Super"). In ornamental gardening, the lavandin variety "Provence", which is found under the name "Provence French Lavender", is popular.

Lavandula x intermedia ‘Grosso’. Photo: www.jerseylavender.co.uk

In 2011, Bulgaria became the world leader in the production of lavender essential oil., replacing France in this post. This happened, among other things, because in 2005–2010, due to drought and phytopathogenic organisms, France lost almost 50% of its lavender. According to Comité des Plantes à Parfum Aromatiques et Médicinales, now in France lavender is grown on 4,000 hectares, and lavandin occupies 15,000 hectares. The world ratio of lavender to lavandin is 1 to 5.

Valensole plateau, France. Photo: www.valensole.fr

Lavandin resistant to diseases and pest attacks. It is easier to cultivate and produces more essential oil than other types of lavender can produce from a field of the same area. And the oil is much cheaper! From 1 hectare of sown area you can get from 8 to 30 kg of lavender oil. Lavandin from such an area produces up to 220 kg of essential oil.

In appearance, lavandin differs from angustifolia lavender: a spreading bush with branched stems; the inflorescence looks like a long thin tapering spike, ending with a pointed, sometimes drooping tip. I recently showed a photo of lavandin getting ready to bloom (see)

Lavandin (left) compared to Lavender angustifolia. Photo: www. aromaterapiafamiliar.wordpress.com

Dried lavender flowers can now be found in almost all French fragrant souvenirs; they are often mixed with flowers of other types of lavender.

For those who just want to enjoy the beautiful landscapes, the presence of lavandin in the field is not critical, but for fans of the classics there is still some difference. It is especially noticeable for those who want to linger longer in the purple fields or see how the oil is obtained: in these cases, the aroma still plays a leading role.

The use of lavandin as a medicinal plant is limited due to its chemical composition, which is somewhat different from the chemical composition of its “parents”. Lavandin essential oil contains active ingredients that do not allow it to be fully used in aromatherapy. The main disadvantage of this oil: it is not advisable to use it for burns, while lavender officinalis oil is the first remedy in such cases. But hybrid lavender oil and its derivatives are readily used by the perfumery and cosmetics industry.

Abbey of Senank. The collection of lavandin on a small plantation is carried out manually by monks and volunteers. Photo: www.senanque.fr

The aroma of lavandin is very bright, tart, sometimes strong and even intrusive. Some travelers say that it was precisely because of such fragrant shades that they were able to stay on the outskirts of such a flowering plantation for no more than half an hour. I spent more than 3 hours on one of the plantations where medicinal lavender is grown without harming my own health. This allowed me to fully enjoy the lilac field, learn more about plants of different ages, and watch the process of obtaining essential oil from start to finish.

Lavender is one of my favorite flowers. We have a lot of different lavenders in our garden. There is the French broadleaf, which blooms here in the south of England almost all year round. There are a lot of narrow-leaved lavender of different varieties and shades of purple - they have the most delicate, refined aroma. There was heat-loving Spanish lavender. Here I will tell you about a huge lavandin (hybrid lavender) bush that has been growing on our patio for many years. Over the years of its life, this lavender bush reached an enormous size and brought a bucket of flowers every year, so there was enough for everyone - relatives, friends, and us. What is so special about lavandin and why do some people think it is inferior to lavender? Read and see photos of hybrid lavender flowers from my garden

All about lavender on the COUNTRY LIFE website:

Lavender sideshow, or lavandin ( Lavandula × intermedia, lavandin) - a natural sterile hybrid of angustifolia lavender and broadleaf lavender ( L. angustifolia subsp. angustifolia × L. latifolia).

I grew this lavender by layering from another huge bush that we inherited from the old owners of the house (see). Lavandin is sterile, which means it does not reproduce by seeds. By searching the Internet, I determined that our hybrid lavender belongs to the so-called. Dutch group. I'm still not sure what variety it is. Based on the photos and descriptions, it could be lavenderDutch Mill or lavender Fragrant Memories . Dutch group lavender flowers are quite light, initially light purple, but by the end of flowering they fade to almost gray. Hybrid lavender leaves are silvery. The flowers are borne on very long stalks, making lavandin perfect for both fresh and dried bouquets. The entire bush of this lavender is very fragrant - both flowers, leaves and even, it seems, wood. When I come home from the garden after pruning the lavender, my husband always remarks: 'You pruned the lavender.' After all, just by touching the branches and flowers of lavender, your skin, hair, and clothes - everything smells like lavender.

Do you know how to distinguish lavender angustifolia from its similar lavandin? Lavandin is a larger plant. Lavandin blooms later than angustifolia lavender. On the stems of lavandin there can be not one, but 3 spikelets of inflorescences. Lavandin essential oil contains 7% more camphor, so its smell is stronger, stronger and even ‘medicinal’ than the smell of lavender angustifolia oil. Lavandin oil is a stronger antiseptic than lavender angustifolia oil. Lavandin flowers and leaves contain much more essential oil than angustifolia lavender flowers and leaves. This explains the lower cost of its production and lower price.

Why did we cut down this beautiful hybrid lavender bush, you are probably wondering? Because it had grown excessively and occupied about 2 square meters. meters on the patio, blocking the access to the water supply. Also because lavender bushes generally age quickly, because lavender does not live long. By properly pruning lavender plants (in the green, but very close to the woody part of the bush) you can extend the life of the bush by several years. Our bush was already 7 years old and half of its height was occupied by woody brown branches without greenery.

Instead of uprooting the lavandin bush, I'm going to buy another variety with darker flowers. I'm currently considering lavenders ‘Grosso’ ( Grosso ), 'Sil' ( Seal) or Impress Purple ( Impress Purple) . Lavender ‘Grosso’- a variety of French selection from 1972 with purple flowers. For now lavender ‘Grosso’- the most popular variety in industrial cultivation for the preparation of lavandin oil (hybrid lavender essential oil). Lavender ‘Seal’ is an old garden favorite (breeding 1930) with bright blue-lilac flowers. All these varieties are tall.

Hybrid lavender, lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia, lavandin) is a valuable aromatic plant and source of essential oil.

If you are also thinking of getting hybrid lavender, pay attention to the new varieties - they are more compact than the old lavender varieties. This lavandin from the groupHeavenly(Heavenly Night, Heavenly Scent and Heavenly Angel), as well as the Olympia variety with dark purple flowers. All listed varieties are of English selection ( Downderry) and compact - 55-60 cm high and approx. 70 cm wide.

By the way, gardening catalogs classify hybrid lavender (lavandin) in terms of winter hardiness and cold resistance. This means that lavandin will probably grow in the Moscow region and spend the winter with shelter. Do you grow lavandin and in what regions? Tell the readers of our site about it!

For more information on how to grow lavender (planting, care and pruning) and how to use lavender oil, read the links above.