Arranging terraces next to the house is considered by many people as a very attractive design solution. But, as with any type of construction work, there are subtleties that must be taken into account. If you do this, building a great-looking structure turns out to be quite simple and accessible to almost anyone who knows how to work with tools. It is not necessary to invite professional builders for this.

Types of structures

Strictly speaking, terraces are only open (this is the interpretation given in SNiP), and all closed extensions to houses, no matter how they look externally, should be called verandas. The semi-open type - without walls or equipped with low walls - has sufficient space, and a roof or canopy will help to avoid the effects of precipitation and sunlight. But all the same, the furniture will have to be placed as far as possible from open areas.

A pergola-style terrace is ideal for dry areas, and it is not at all necessary that the structure be covered with vine shoots. After all, metal gratings with dense weaving are considered self-sufficient and allow you to decorate the space both from above and from the edges. Provides simultaneous closure from outside observation in harmonious sunlight.

When you want to get the visual effect of graceful leaves, but don't wait until the pergola is covered in vines and don't care for them, you need to reproduce the appearance through carving. But you can make the external grille very rare, only hinting at the developers’ intentions. An exotic variety is a terrace on the roof. This is much more spacious than a simple balcony, and a supporting wall is almost never used, only a fence. There will be no talk about this option, but it is worth considering its existence.

The wooden type of terraces is actually not the same. Differences may appear in the size, shape, number of levels of the structure, the possibility of free access to the structure or fencing it with decorative plantings.

Project: dimensions and shape

The selection of size and configuration is determined by the size of the plot and the house built on it. Tiny terraces adjacent to a large building are perceived as aesthetically unnatural. Extension less than 4 sq.m. m is uncomfortable, and no methods will help correct the situation. The project should include a minimum consumption of concrete and ceramic slabs, as this will reduce the labor intensity of the work. It is best to make terraces rectangular in order to combine the lines of the buildings with each other.

Important: tiles are better laid on a rectangular terrace, and wooden flooring allows you to vary a variety of shapes through the use of electric jigsaws. But again, it is necessary to maintain visual consistency between the configuration of the extension and the main part of the house.

Terraces with barbecues are considered one of the best design solutions. It should be taken into account that stoves can be very heavy and large structures, which is why it is necessary to build a foundation, possibly for the terrace as a whole. We will also have to make a good, uninterrupted drainage system. The work associated with its arrangement is quite labor-intensive and can significantly increase the overall cost of construction. The screed must be reinforced, and the foundation must be strictly in the form of a monolithic slab.

The grillage is not made of concrete; this type of structure would be unnecessarily difficult to work with. Usually it is made either from a channel, which is connected to the piles by electric welding, or from a beam encircling the perimeter and axes of the supports. In a spacious terrace, it is best to place the stove in the center, using it to distribute the space into the guest and kitchen areas. It is quite common to install a barbecue on one side and a semicircular structure cutting off the selected corner.

Frame construction can be made from either wood or metal.

The choice of a specific material is determined by the following factors:

• convenience and practice of work;
• allocated budget;
• the required strength of the extension.

Even the high cost and difficulty of processing hard wood does not in any way negate its high strength and stable service over time. It is from such materials that the lower frame trims should be formed. To save money, their upper part is made from softer and more accessible breeds. It is unacceptable to use wood that has even the slightest signs of rotting, cracking, chips, wormholes and similar defects. The highest permitted moisture content of wood for constructing a frame is 14%, but it is better to limit it to 12%, it will be much more reliable.

The metal frame produced by welding is relatively strong. But one must take into account the fact that dismantling its individual parts will be impossible; the entire structure will need to be removed as a whole. The minimum permissible cross-section of round and profile pipes is 0.25 cm. If you take a thinner structure, welding work will be more difficult, and due to the increased stress in the metal, significant deformations may appear. Before using a used metal block, be sure to check it for any significant damage.

A terrace with a balcony always has an external fence and is quite narrow. When you need to attach a support beam to a brick structure, you will need to prepare connection points: holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels or wood plugs are mounted.

Important: placing holes with a slight slope from top to bottom helps increase the reliability of fastening, the same requirement is recommended when working with a wooden base. Often the beams for support are shortened by the width of one log at both ends, after which they are adjusted to the ends and attached with bolts, and the connection between the intermediate links is provided by hangers.

Anchor bolts help connect the timber and brick walls; special supports, the cross-section of which is 5x15 cm, can increase the reliability of such a structure. The distance between the supports should be 120 cm, and their use is especially important in areas where there is a lot of precipitation. Holes in the timber are made in increments of 400 to 600 mm; bolts with a diameter of 1 cm should pass through them freely.

Terraces made of foam blocks are much easier to build than using wood or brick, because the labor intensity of work is noticeably reduced. Products initially have correct geometric contours and strict dimensions, which allows you to accurately calculate the need for material and design the structure without errors. Structures based on foam concrete are for the most part created on top of strip foundations, but when the house is initially planned to be supplemented with a terrace, it is necessary to prepare a common slab foundation of the required configuration.

Legalization of the extension

Making a terrace at your dacha is technically quite simple, but regardless of the skill of the home craftsmen or the cost of the services of hired builders, you will need to register the construction with the authorities. It is impossible to do without submitting documents to the structures responsible for fire safety, sanitary and epidemiological control. The permissions received from them are transferred to the administration of the locality or rural settlement. The expenditure of time, effort and money on registration is not in vain, because in the future, its absence may lead to sanctions, including the demolition of the building. And even if this does not happen, selling, leasing, exchanging, or providing collateral for a loan will be impossible or difficult.

Tools and materials

It is imperative to use various kinds of tools during construction.

Each master has an individual set of them, but it is impossible to build a terrace without using:

• electric jigsaw;
• bayonet shovel;
• building level;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• chisels and screwdrivers;
• drill and marker;
• staples and paint brushes.

As for materials, you will need to use high-quality boards, cement at least M400, an antiseptic, steel blanks for structures and paint and varnish materials. A wooden terrace is relatively strong and extremely reliable, guarantees comfort and looks more attractive. In addition, construction work will proceed quickly, and costs will be significantly lower. Bricks, concrete and natural stone are much harder, but their design capabilities are worse; it will not be possible to realize a certain part of the design plans at all. The use of metal (steel and cast iron parts) allows you to create very elegant designs and decorative elements, but you will have to come to terms with increased costs.

A metal terrace will be especially expensive for those who do not know how to work with such materials on their own - and welding skills are not as common as carpentry skills, and the situation with tools is similar. The most modern options, such as wood-polymer composites, are processed more simply than traditional products, and the original PVC coating makes it possible to do without impregnations that protect against rotting. The most economical option is to use the elements left over from the construction or renovation of a house, but you will need to carefully check them for the absence of deformations and for protection from negative natural phenomena.

Step-by-step construction instructions

Properly attaching a terrace to a house means meeting two key requirements: eliminating the deflection and spring effect of the floor, and also ensuring the strength and safety of the mounted railings. It is recommended to provide for the construction of an extension already at the stage of designing a home, then it will be possible to use a common foundation and coordinate the installation of different parts with each other as clearly as possible. But when the terrace is built after finishing work on the house, you will have to order an individual project from professionals.

When building a terrace with your own hands, you need to consider:

• climatic characteristics of the area;
• soil type and freezing depth in winter;
• average annual level of snow cover;
• the type and physical condition of the wall to which the building will adjoin;
• required area and linear dimensions;
• building materials planned for use.

All this data must be immediately stated in the application for designers. Usually the terrace is placed near the wall in which the entrance is located, thanks to which it is possible to use the building not only for leisure, but also as an entrance hall and as a porch. In cold areas, it is recommended to install all extensions in the south and equip them with wide canopies. Where it is relatively warm, it is advisable to place terraces from the east or south, focusing on maximum shading of the place. The prevailing winds must be taken into account, especially if they are strong.

In any case, install waterproofing above the support beam to prevent penetration of various precipitation into the gap between the terrace and the house. Aprons made of aluminum or steel with an external galvanic coating are often used. The foundation is waterproofed with bitumen mastic or adhesive material (laid in a couple of rows). To the question of how exactly to insulate a terrace, the answer is very simple: in no way, the structure will not be heated anyway. After making the racks and rafters and installing them, it is necessary to sheathe such structures using boards or sanded slabs.

The voids separating the opposite edges are saturated with sawdust. But long before the construction of the rafters, it is necessary to deal with the base of the terrace - there is also a lot of interesting things here.

Foundation

The construction of the foundation in most cases involves the use of concrete blocks with dimensions of 0.3x0.3 m, which are buried ½ of the height into solid solid soil. Typically, the parts are placed on a sand bed so that the edge protrudes upward by 150 mm. Then parts of the frame will not rot due to contact with consistently moist soil.

Important: concrete blocks cast in artisanal conditions can replace factory products only in warm areas where there is no freezing of the soil, or it is weakly expressed. A pile foundation turns out to be the optimal and most economical solution in the middle zone on top of heaving soil.

When choosing a design, they are guided primarily by the rigidity and stability of the structure as a whole, as well as the correspondence of the foundation under the terrace and under the main house; if it is not provided, buildings may begin to deform. Racks (that is, pillars) are prepared in advance, with the help of which the load created by the terrace will be distributed evenly on the plane of the foundation. For the most part, such elements are given a cross-section of 10x10 cm, although for a large structure it will be necessary to increase the size of the supports.

Important: the racks must be attached to the foundation using brackets, since pouring concrete will lead to rapid rotting.

The racks can be made in two versions: in one they support the beams, in the other they pass through the flooring, forming fences or benches. Placing the beams on the posts can be a simple overlay or attachment using screws (bolts). The beams are aligned horizontally; if necessary, shims are used for leveling. In cases where it is planned to use not a flooring, but a solid structure made of wood, you need to give it a slight slope in the direction from the house (about 1%). By increasing the cross-section of the beams, you can make the span between the individual racks larger, that is, save on the number of blocks in the base.

For the manufacture of logs, boards measuring 5x15 cm are most often used., lay the logs at right angles with a gap of 40, 60, 80 or 120 cm - this depends on how thick the flooring will be created. The use of screw piles, grillage piles or a pile-monolithic structure is required when there is a body of water in the immediate vicinity of the construction site.

Flooring

When constructing the flooring, the logs should not be visible, but they should still be placed in advance at the same distance and strictly parallel. Then it will be easier to attach the railing later. Depending on the placement of the joists, it is possible to ensure an even and neat arrangement of the connecting screws. Or it fails - if the work was approached unprofessionally. The logs are attached using screws (bolts) to the support beam near the walls.

This beam is positioned so that a gap of 3 cm is maintained from the top point of the flooring to the base of the door opening. Then precipitation will not enter the room through the threshold. To secure the logs, it is necessary to use metal hangers in the shape of the Latin letter U. This is stiffer and more reliable than a connection made from screws and nails. In the event of the slightest damage or shift, momentary savings will result in significant losses; All professionals consider the use of support strips to be the worst method of installation.

When making a frame, most often the beams are attached to high posts passed through the boardwalks (since a completely finished railing post is immediately created). For a span of 180 cm, beams with a section of 10x15 cm are recommended, and for a larger size of 240 cm, this figure must be increased to 10x20 cm.

A veranda is an extension to a house that shares a common wall with it. Building a veranda is a great opportunity to expand the living space in a dacha or country house without carrying out full-scale construction. In terms of design, it can be absolutely anything, the main thing is that it is in harmony with the main building, is comfortable, functionally corresponds to the tasks assigned to it, is liked by the owners of the cottage and arouses the envy of the neighbors.

Before use, the material for constructing a gazebo must be treated with special insulating solutions that will make the structure resistant to environmental influences.

What types of verandas are there?

As already mentioned, the design of the verandas can be absolutely anything, but the design can be quite different:

On a columnar, strip or pile foundation (making a monolith is expensive and difficult);
built-in or attached;
on a common foundation with the house or on a separate one;
under a common roof or under a separate one;
open or glazed;
insulated or summer version (without insulation, but with glazing);
with a frame made of different materials (wood, particleboard, aluminum, steel, and so on);
with different types of material for rough cladding;
with different types of front finish.

Obviously, the choice is incredibly large. But the most common and simplest option for constructing a veranda can be considered an attached veranda under a separate roof without insulation on a columnar foundation. If you do not plan to spend the night in such an extension in the winter and do not intend to build a bulky stove on it, this option is perfect for you. You can choose the type of internal and external cladding at your own discretion: siding, lining, boards, and so on.

Types of foundation.

Time frame for constructing a veranda on your own

If the veranda is relatively small (it is customary to make it the entire length of the wall of the house where there is a door) and with a low porch, then all the work can be done literally by two people in the shortest possible time. Most often, with a 4–6 hour working day, it takes only 4–5 days, plus some time for exterior and interior finishing. An assistant to the chief foreman will be required at the stage of laying heavy beams and at the stage of constructing the roof.

Calculation of a veranda for a country house

A veranda is a structure that requires approval and, accordingly, the preparation of design documentation. Only certified specialists can do this, so, most likely, it is they who will make you a project based on your sketch, on the basis of which you can calculate the necessary materials.

However, if you decide not to legalize your extension, you can do the calculations yourself. Most home craftsmen make do with an approximate diagram and try to obtain more accurate data only for the number of beams and roofing material - both of them most often have to be purchased and transported from afar, and everything else can usually be “obtained” somewhere nearby.

When designing a veranda, you need to take into account that most often the timber that will be used for the construction of vertical posts, for the lower and upper trim and for logs, has a length of 6 meters. So, in order not to make unnecessary cuts and not throw away unnecessary materials, it is worth choosing the appropriate dimensions of the veranda.

Sketch of the veranda.

Total we need

Cement;
sand and water for solution;
brick (or ready-made concrete blocks, which are sold in construction stores) for installing foundation columns (every 1.5–2 meters);
timber 150×150 or 100×100;
edged board 40×100;
durable steel corners;
nails;
bitumen for foundation treatment;
waterproofing (roofing felt or durable polyethylene);
roofing material;
materials for external and internal cladding.

Frameless glazing of the veranda.

DIY veranda construction

After the rough calculations have been made and the material has been purchased, you can move on to the next stage - marking the area. It should be taken into account that the attached veranda will have a separate base from the main part of the cottage or dacha. And, since they have different bases and different weights, during the freezing and thawing of the soil, each of the structures will “float”, that is, rise and fall, completely according to its own physical laws. This means that if we try to “link” the veranda and the house, then sooner or later they will still move away from each other. Accordingly, we leave a gap of 5–10 centimeters between them, which we then close with a special strip.

Veranda at a country house.

Stage 1. Building the foundation for the veranda

After we have hammered pegs along the wall in those places where we will install pillars for the foundation, we can proceed directly to the excavation work. The markings must be taken very seriously: subsequently you will not have to level out defects by complex adjustment of the top trim and rafters. Marking pegs should be located on the outside of the veranda walls.

Under the pillars, we dig holes approximately 50–70 centimeters deep and make a “cushion” for the future foundation pillars: pour 15–20 centimeters of sand into the hole, moisten it and compact it. After the sand has dried, add crushed stone to a height of approximately 10 centimeters. We pour a liquid bitumen composition on top of it to provide the pillars with reliable waterproofing.

After our waterproofed “cushion” has hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the foundation pillars. They can be made from masonry or concrete foundation blocks. We make sure that the columns are the same in height: later we will not have to fight with leveling the floor on the veranda.

If there is a cavity inside the masonry, it needs to be filled with some kind of construction waste - broken bricks, crushed stone - and filled with bitumen. It is best to coat the outside of both blocks and bricks with bitumen - it will not be superfluous.

The height of the blocks or pillars should be such that after laying the bottom trim, joists and boards, the vertical height to the floor in the cottage or house is 25–30 centimeters. This is necessary because presumably the roof of the veranda will be lower than the roof of the house (if we want to combine them into a common structure), that is, the ceiling of the veranda will also be lower.

Important: after each stage, all new elements of a wooden structure must be treated with special antiseptics.

Veranda with outdoor fireplace.

Stage 2. Making the base of the veranda

Now that we have the foundation pillars, we cover each of them with a piece of roofing felt for additional waterproofing. If it was not possible to line up the columns exactly horizontally, then later, before laying the joists or flooring, you will have to make special linings.

Now we put the lower trim, which will assemble our structure together. We place a beam on top of our covered waterproofing materials pillars, which we connect with a half-tree corner connection - this is the simplest option. To add additional rigidity to the structure, you can connect the corners with nails, but it would be optimal not to use metal, but to drill holes with a diameter of about 1.5 centimeters and drive spikes into them. Don’t forget to coat the level of the bottom trim with an antibacterial waterproofing agent for wood.

Veranda frame.

Stage 3. Making a frame for the veranda

In the corners of our veranda we hollow out or drill grooves for installing corner vertical posts. We install the racks, carefully checking that they are perfectly vertical. We reinforce the tongue-and-groove connection between the posts and the bottom trim with strong metal corners or brackets. Next, we install intermediate racks using the same principle. Usually they are placed at a distance of approximately 60 centimeters from one another - here everything depends solely on the wishes of the master and on the length of the material that will be used for the construction and cladding of the frame.

Important: do not forget to clearly check the distance between the vertical posts in the places where the window and door frames will be located: the frame must fit between two vertical posts.

Corner veranda.

By mounting the vertical posts, you can immediately make a window sill beam, which we will make from timber, connecting it to the vertical posts with a tenon connection. You can equip the window sill beam later, securing it with corners. After installing the vertical posts and connecting them with a transverse (window sill) beam, we once again check the strict verticality of the structure.

On top of the resulting structure of racks sticking up, we install the top frame - it will also be the Mauerlat on which the roof structure will rest. It is done according to the same principle as the lower harness.

Now we cut out incomplete (half or one-third) grooves for the floor joists in the lower frame, and incomplete grooves for the rafters in the upper frame. First, we place long beams along the wall of the house - the lower and upper purlins (the upper one is also called the beam) - on the lower and upper harness. We also cut out grooves in the purlins. We place floor joists (below) and rafters (above) across the purlins, fastening them either with a wooden spike (this is the most reliable) or with nails.

Veranda with wooden steps.

Stage 4. Stairs

Our design had to be elevated above the ground, and in order to be able to get to the veranda, it is recommended to purchase or make a staircase yourself. It can be a simple welded metal staircase, a wooden staircase on stringers, made of bricks, or poured concrete. It is only important to remember that the staircase should be independent of the house - it should be combined with the floor of the veranda only by the top, preferably a floating step. The staircase needs to be installed at this stage, so that then all the connection flaws (ugly joints, etc.) can be covered with floor boards.

Floor covering for open areas.

Stage 5. Floor installation

The floor can be installed at this stage or later, when the roof frame is assembled, but it is more convenient to carry out construction work by walking not on the joists, but on a ready-made foundation. So it is recommended that right now you place an edged board across the joists and nail it to the beam with stainless steel nails. This can be a finished version of the floorboard or a rough one. Later, the rough boards can be covered with linoleum or another type of flooring.

Remark: how to make a warm floor in the veranda

If the veranda is not cold, but warm, then the procedure for constructing the floor will be slightly different:

1. Place the strapping on top of the foundation pillars.

2. We lay the purlin (if it is needed, and it is needed if the length of the board is not enough, which we will lay in the next step) so that the upper level of the purlin beam coincides with the upper level of the strapping beam (this can be easily achieved if you use the connection of the beams “in half a tree").

3. We stuff boards on top of the purlin and strapping.

4. We lay waterproofing material on top of them.

5. We lay logs on top of the waterproofing without any cutting. You can also make a cutting, and bend the waterproofing material into the resulting grooves and press them down with lags. We connect the logs with the second bottom trim (sometimes called the second crown).

6. Place thermal insulation material in the resulting niches. This can be expanded clay, slab or roll insulation.

7. We fill boards on top of the joists - this will be the finishing or rough floor of our veranda.

Wooden veranda.

Stage 6. Roof installation

We already have a mauerlat or top trim and a central girder (aka a bench). Now you need to install racks on the side of the wall of the house, so that later you get a pitched roof. First we set up the corner posts, then the intermediate ones. We connect the racks from above with a ridge girder, making sure that all racks are the same height.

Now we place the rafters with support on one side on the wall posts, on the other side on the Mauerlat (aka the top frame). You can lay the rafters with hollowing “half a tree”, or without - just attach them with corners or staples. Do not forget that our roof must have an overhang from the entrance to the veranda, as well as a small allowance from the side of the house wall so that rain and melt water does not flow down the back wall of the veranda. In addition, do not forget that it would also be a good idea to make a canopy over the stairs, at least over the top few steps.

Important: this article describes a highly simplified rafter system, which, however, is often used in the construction of summer houses, verandas, and gazebos. However, during work, especially if the veranda is very spacious, it may be necessary to install additional elements: struts (supports the angle between the rafters and the post), intermediate posts (also called legs or chairs), purlins and tie rods (connect additional intermediate posts) and other elements, which will reduce the pressure of the roofing pie and rafters on the posts and trim, and also maintain the clarity of the corners of the structure.

Veranda roof made of polycarbonate.

On top of the rafters we attach a waterproofing material, which is secured with self-tapping screws. We fill counter-lattice boards along the rafters. They will play a double role: they will press the waterproofing harder and create a space between the finishing roofing material and the insulation, eliminating the possibility of rotting of the sheathing and rafters.

Next comes a layer of lathing, which is placed across the rafters and, accordingly, the counter-lattice. The final stage is fixing the roofing material and covering the sides of the resulting gables with a suitable material (most likely the same one that will be used to cover the walls of the veranda).

You can use a wide range of materials to form the roof of a gazebo.

Further, if you have a warm veranda, all work is done from the inside of the house. You need to fasten the insulation between the rafters (can be nailed to the rafters), cover it with a vapor barrier layer (can also be nailed), and then lay the lathing of the ceiling system on top. It can be a rough version or immediately a final version for subsequent finishing.

Stage 7. Installation of doors and windows

If you will have a covered porch rather than an open one, now is the time to install door and window frames. We fix the boxes using self-tapping screws or nails. We fill the voids with polyurethane foam. During the outer cladding of the walls, it is better to remove the sashes (unless, of course, you have double-glazed windows) so that they do not suffer from vibrations when struck with a hammer or during operation of a screwdriver.

Modern interior solutions allow your imagination to run wild.

Stage 8. Sheathing the outside walls of the veranda

The material for the cladding and, accordingly, the method of its fastening are chosen by the owners of the house at their own request. The main thing when installing the outer covering is not to forget about the waterproofing layer, which is attached to the counter-lattice attached to the vertical posts. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside, similar to the roof. You can leave the veranda open by building only a high fence.

Sunny glassed veranda.

Stage 9. Finishing!

Now all that remains is to make sure once again that all the wood has been treated with antiseptic compounds and you can proceed to finishing the veranda. There is no need to comment on this part of the work, since there are simply countless options. Now, on their own veranda, home owners will be able to enjoy morning or evening tea, fresh air, peace and contemplation of nature.

Every private homeowner is thinking about adding a veranda to their home. The entrance door to a home, equipped with a canopy or canopy, looks uninteresting. Having built a veranda, you can decorate it with curtains, hang flower pots or decorate it in the style you like. Being in such a building, it is pleasant to sit with a cup of tea without fear of hot sun rays or drizzling rain. The sunset will become more beautiful if you watch it from a convenient place. All this will create additional comfort.

The need for a veranda. Functions, advantages and disadvantages

The construction of a structure such as a veranda is often an important condition for creating comfortable relaxation and organizing functional areas in it. Designs come in open and closed types. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include the following:

• erecting an open-type structure is not particularly difficult and does not require additional costs for installing windows and doors.
• for these structures there is no need to lay a deep foundation.
• in a closed veranda you can place a winter garden that is not afraid of frost, or organize a recreation area where you can be at any time of the year.

Speaking about the disadvantages of types of verandas, it should be noted that:

• Closed verandas, as a rule, are insulated and have heating installed, which entails energy consumption and requires additional construction equipment.
• furniture and other interior items on open verandas quickly become covered with dust or become damp, so they must be made of moisture-resistant materials.
• an open veranda will not provide protection from strong winds or low air temperatures.

The need for this extension is determined by the following criteria:

1. First of all, it increases the usable area of ​​a residential building, especially if it is very small.
2. Arranging a stove or summer kitchen in it during the warm months of the year is more practical than inside a home. Additional heat and fumes are not retained, making the cooking process more comfortable.
3. The location of the dining room in it will move vacationers from the stuffy rooms of the house to fresh air.
4. The veranda, with appropriate design, will become an elegant architectural addition and give the house a beautiful appearance.
5. The glazed structure will become an intermediate space between the house and the street. This will keep you warm during the cold season.

The functionality of this structure, depending on the type of construction, is as follows:

• thanks to its design, the veranda protects the house from various atmospheric phenomena;
• the existing veranda fences will prevent direct debris from entering the home;
• the designs of closed verandas allow the placement of a large number of plants and even trees in them in winter;
• the sliding frame of this extension allows you to adjust the shading areas and provide shelter from the rain;
• The extension makes it possible to be in the fresh air even in unfavorable weather conditions.

Design gallery of possible options

This option will serve as a dining room and kitchen at the same time A fireplace in the veranda will create a special atmosphere Adjustable roof allows you to stay in the shade all day long Thanks to a convenient sliding system, this design will turn into an open veranda It won't be cold here even in the colder months There are two verandas attached to the residential building: one glazed and one without a roof. The extension serves as an intermediate zone between housing and the street Even in cold weather, this structure will be warmed by the sun's rays Tall plants will feel comfortable in such a structure

How to attach a veranda to your house: preparation

Before you start building the veranda frame, you need to decide on the type of future construction. Before starting construction work, it is necessary to select a place for its location, make the necessary measurements, prepare materials and install one of the suitable foundations. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of materials and the area of ​​occupied land for this extension, you should carefully design it and draw up a drawing.

Types of suitable foundation

If you install a foundation made of logs, you should pay special attention to the quality of the wood. For supports, oak and larch species that have been previously treated with a bitumen mixture or burned are suitable. For these purposes, logs with a diameter of at least 25 cm are used. The method of installing these supports is similar to the construction of a columnar foundation: the bottom of the holes is covered with sand and compacted, after which the logs are placed there. For better stability, concrete is poured onto the sand layer or a wooden cross is installed.

Installing a strip base will require a lot of concrete and reinforcement cage. This foundation consists of solid walls hidden in the ground. It is intended for heavier buildings. The lower part of this base has an extension, which creates additional stability for the entire building. In cases of unstable or loose soil, the strip foundation can be increased. When installing this base, you need to leave holes for the necessary communications.

Tape blocks are very popular. To do this, ready-made concrete blocks are purchased and installed in a shallow (20 to 30 cm) trench, the bottom of which is compacted with sand. In this case, the block will be deepened into the ground by 2/3 of the slab. It will simultaneously play the role of foundation and basis for the floor of the veranda.

The column-pile foundation consists of long columns. To install it, you need to dig holes using a construction drill. Their depth should be from 40 to 50 cm. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone or gravel. Then a sleeve with roofing material rolled into a pipe is inserted into it. Concrete is poured into the resulting cavity. The supporting column is built on top of the resulting base.

A screw foundation involves the use of metal pile elements, to the ends of which blades of various sizes are welded. This type of foundation is most suitable for unstable soil. Piles are screwed into the ground using manual force or pile-drilling equipment. The strength of the base, in this case, depends on the material of manufacture and the diameter of the pipes. The screw-in depth must be below the freezing point. Typically this value is from 70 to 12 cm. Installation of screw piles is convenient because they can be installed in frozen ground.

Project drawings, dimensions

As an example, an open veranda with a pitched roof, installed on a columnar foundation, is presented.

Materials for this design should be selected taking into account the design of the house

This design is a square shape, measuring 490x500 cm. The height to the ceiling beam is 230 cm. The roof angle is 20°. The distance from the bottom frame to the rafters adjacent to the wall of the house will be 420 cm. Since the width of the structure is more than 3 m, intermediate racks made of beams with a cross-section of 100x150 mm will be used to strengthen it. The distance between the first and second row from the wall of the house is 277 cm. From the second to third row is 180 cm. On the front side, the racks are 166 cm apart from each other. The distance between the longitudinal load-bearing beams should be from 80 to 110 cm. For the roof it is necessary roofing material with a total area of ​​24.5 m². The height of the foundation pillars, from the ground to the bottom frame of the veranda frame, is 145 cm.

On a veranda with these parameters you can place a couple of chairs with a table and hang a garden swing.

1 - support board; 2 - longitudinal load-bearing beams; 3 - transverse beam; 4 - racks; 5 - foundation pillars

Material selection and calculation

The most common material for constructing verandas is wood. It has a clear advantage over brick, metal and metal-plastic buildings. The material is easy to process, which is not typical for a metal structure. If you use profile pipes, channels or corners when building a veranda, then it is convenient to install double-glazed windows to such a frame.

A brick extension requires a deep foundation, which is an additional expense. In addition, its construction will take much more time than a wooden structure. To cover closed verandas, glass (double-glazed windows) or polycarbonate is installed. Metal tiles, bitumen coatings, slate and polycarbonate alloys are used for roofing. However, for better sound insulation, you should pay attention to soft tiles.

To make a frame veranda made of wood, the following materials are required:

1. For the bottom and top trim:

• four beams with a cross section of 100x200 mm, 500 cm long;
• ten beams with a similar cross-section, 490 cm long.

For vertical racks you need:

• five beams with a cross section of 100x200 mm, 430 cm long (posts attached to the wall of a residential building), and the same number - 285 cm each (intermediate posts);
• six beams with a section of 100x200 mm, a length of 230 cm (facade racks).
• For longitudinal load-bearing elements (rafters) you need seven beams with a cross-section of 100x150 mm and a length of 540 cm.
• For flooring, tongue and groove boards with a cross-section of 100x40 mm and a length of 490 cm are required, for a total area of ​​24.5 m².
• OSB boards are needed for roof sheathing.
• For the railing, beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm and a total length of 15 m are required.
• For an x-shaped fence, similar beams with a total length of 40 m are needed.
• Concrete M-300.
• Roofing felt or boards for formwork.
• Reinforcing bars with a diameter of 10 mm.
• The roof requires soft tiles to cover 26.5 m².
• Waterproofing material.

Required Tools

To build an open veranda structure, you will need the following tools:

1. Screw, bayonet and shovel.
2. Concrete mixer.
3. Water container.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Jigsaw.
6. Grinder machine.
7. Electric planer.
8. Hammer.
9. Building level.
10. Roulette.
11. Large square.
12. Ladder.
13. Cord.
14. Pencil.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a summer terrace

To build a frame veranda, it is necessary to lay a foundation. When installing it, you should adhere to some construction nuances:

• pits and trenches for the veranda should be at the same depth as the foundation of the house to which it is attached;
• if the soil under construction is unstable or there is abundant groundwater, then a pile-screw foundation will be able to cope with this problem;
• it is necessary to determine the ability of the soil to absorb moisture and the homogeneity of the soil at the construction site.

Depending on the composition and quality of the soil, the appropriate base for the frame is selected. In our case, this is a columnar foundation.

The base consists of individual concrete pillars installed in the ground. A grillage or frame for erecting walls is attached to them.

1. Make markings for the future veranda using a cord and wooden pegs.

   1 - cast-offs from boards; 2 - cord; 3 - plumb line; 4 - level

2. Using a screw shovel, dig holes with a diameter of 40 to 50 cm, to a depth of 60 cm.
3. Place wet sand at the bottom of each hole. It must be compacted to form a sand cushion 20 cm thick.
4. To prevent liquid concrete from being absorbed into the sand, you need to lay a waterproofing layer. For these purposes, use roofing material.
5. Make formwork from the boards. The size of each wall should be 40x90 cm.
6. Place reinforcing bars inside the formwork.
7. Pour the concrete mixture there so that its level rises 40 cm above the ground.

   The reinforcement cage will strengthen the concrete pillar

8. Use stops to hold the formwork walls.
9. Leave the concrete to harden.
10. When the base has hardened sufficiently and the pillars have formed, remove the formwork.
11. Using a building level, check the vertical position of each pillar.

    Optimal dimensions for the base under the veranda

12. Treat them with bitumen mastic.
13. Compact the soil around the posts and install a fence.
14. Lay a waterproofing layer on the finished foundation. To do this, you need to roll the roofing material twice.
15. Install the bottom frame of the structure on top. For this you need beams with a cross section of 100x200 mm. You need to cut grooves in them to install vertical supports.
16. Install a floor made of tongue-and-groove boards with a cross-section of 100x40 mm on wooden logs.
17. Install vertical supports from similar beams into the grooves.

    Grooves make the structure strong

18. Attach long supports to the wall of the house using anchors and screws.
19. Mount the top frame of the structure. The connections of the wooden elements are similar to the bottom trim
20. Install the extension truss system to the top frame, on one side, and the wall of the house, on the other. Arrange its elements in increments of 50 cm. To do this, you need beams with a cross-section of 100x150 mm.

    The structure is ready for insulation and finishing

21. The frame of the rafter system is attached to the top frame using metal corners or plates.

    Metal connections will not be visible after finishing

22. Install veranda side railings.
23. Attach waterproofing to the rafter system, on top of which fill the sheathing with a section of 20x40 mm, in increments of 40 cm. Attach OSB boards to it using self-tapping screws.

    Soft tiles are easy to install and repair

24. Now you can proceed to installing the roofing material. Laying of soft tiles is carried out from the eaves from the center of the slope. The first row of this covering must be laid 2 cm from the edge of the cornice. Lay the layers of tiles with an overlap of 5 - 10 cm. Cover the joints with bitumen mastic. Secure the tiles on four sides with nails.

    There are a large number of colors and shades of soft roofing

Final finishing

The selected materials for finishing the veranda should have not only aesthetic value, but also practical value. The open design is exposed to the environment. It follows from this that finishing materials must be resistant to high humidity and temperature changes.

The most common material that meets all the requirements of open structures is wooden lining. This is an environmentally friendly coating that is ideal for wall coverings. A veranda with this finish has a pleasant woody smell. For better joining of wooden elements, their sides are equipped with grooves. To increase the service life, this finishing material is pre-treated with antifungal impregnations.

The lining is easy to install, thanks to the cutouts along the edges

MDF boards are used as the final finishing of the veranda walls. This material is more suitable for closed structures. This is due to the fact that moisture has a detrimental effect on the slabs, causing them to deform and lose quality.

Inexpensive and reliable material - MDF boards

The opposite of MDF boards are PVC panels, which are moisture resistant. This coating is easy to clean, fire-resistant, and comes in a variety of textures and colors. Installation of these plates is very simple.

Easy to process and install PVC panels

An affordable and practical material for finishing verandas is siding. Its texture usually resembles stone or wood. Available in the form of long panels of various colors and shades. The material is resistant to fire, rotting, and has a long service life.

Siding is securely attached thanks to convenient holes

Thanks to the variety of shades, it is easy to choose in accordance with the color scheme of buildings on your site. Vinyl siding is often used for this.

To make the external decoration of the veranda you need:

How and with what to insulate floors and ceilings

When insulating a veranda, first of all you need to pay attention to the floor. This is especially important when the foundation is piled, columnar or does not have a continuous strip. In this case, from below, it is covered with penofol, after which all the cracks between the boards are puttied. Carpet or linoleum on a polypropylene base is suitable as insulation for the floor surface.

If you do high-quality insulation, then it is necessary to arrange a subfloor, followed by filling and installing a finished surface with a coating.

Floors on the veranda can be insulated using expanded clay granules. To do this, wooden logs are installed on the existing surface from beams with a cross-section of 40x150 mm, with a pitch of 60 cm. Expanded clay is poured between them, the height of which should not exceed the upper edge of the boards. OSB boards are fixed on top of the logs, onto which the finished floor is installed.

The granules must be evenly spaced

Also, floors and walls are insulated using mineral wool. For ease of installation, it is sold in the form of rectangular slabs of various thicknesses. To insulate the floor with cotton wool, you need to cover it with waterproofing material. For this purpose, foil-foil foamed propylene is used. Wooden logs with the same cross-section and pitch are installed on top of this layer. Mineral wool slabs are tightly laid between them. If its thickness is insufficient, then the slabs are stacked on top of each other, with the condition that they do not rise above the wooden frame. Otherwise, the insulation will wrinkle and lose its thermal insulation properties. Attach a vapor barrier material on top of it, to the joists. Then the finishing is installed.

The form of mineral wool in the form of slabs is convenient for installation

Penoplex and foam plastic have proven themselves well as insulation. These materials have the same base, but penoplex has a uniform structure, and polystyrene foam tends to crumble. This insulation is available in the form of slabs of various thicknesses. Just as in the previous options, its installation requires a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer. The slabs are fastened to the joists using plastic dowels. The joints of the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam, which serves as an additional adhesive material. OSB boards or tongue and groove boards are fixed on top. The ceiling is also insulated using the same principle.

Lightweight and durable material - penoplex

If the veranda is an open structure, walls made of beams are built along its perimeter. Then, using the above methods, insulation is installed. Double-glazed windows are inserted into the walls.

Video: DIY veranda

Thanks to a wide range of materials, the appearance of the veranda can be designed in an original and beautiful way. By insulating this structure, you will enjoy the view not only of flowers, but also of the winter landscape. Lunch or evening tea parties will be more memorable thanks to the natural freshness and soft light at sunset, and rainy weather will not spoil the outdoor party.

A terrace is a platform attached to a house or standing separately. It usually resembles a large porch adjacent to the wall at the entrance to the house. In the southern regions, terraces are usually open. In the middle zone they are covered with awnings or awnings. The terrace design can be initially included in the house construction plan and built on the same foundation. But, if the house already exists, adding a terrace to it will not be difficult for any home craftsman. Let's talk about what basic terrace designs exist and how to build them yourself.

Before you start building a terrace, you should carry out the design and decide which design option to give preference to.

The simplest terrace designs are made at ground level. These are areas paved with paving slabs, paving stones or clinker. Paving is carried out on a gravel-sand cushion laid in a pre-arranged excavation in the ground, 20-30 cm high.

On a gravel dump, you can also build a wooden terrace with a deck made of boards or composite decking. Wooden blocks or steel profiles are laid on top of the fill, acting as joists. Wooden support beams are mounted on them. Flooring boards are fixed on top.

Terraces raised above ground level are more complex in design. Moreover, they can be raised either by 15-20 cm or by 2-3 m (second floor level). In this case, you cannot do without a foundation. Such a terrace rests on reinforced concrete slabs, blocks or piles, which act as a monolithic, columnar or pile foundation. An example of a raised terrace: a platform in the form of a reinforced concrete slab, lined with ceramics or porcelain stoneware. When building a wooden raised terrace, wooden logs are fixed to the selected foundation (concrete columns, slabs, piles), which are covered with edged or decking boards (decking) on ​​top.

We will provide you with several options for constructing a terrace, presented in the form of informational master classes.

Option 1. Terrace paved with clinker

This version of the terrace is built on a compacted sand cushion at ground level. The clinker tiles from which the flooring is laid make it possible to form curved lines of the site. To clearly define the boundaries of the terrace, fences are installed along its perimeter. For example, small wooden posts impregnated with antiseptics.

The work is carried out as follows:

1. Clear the soil where the paved terrace is installed. Remove stones, snags, remove the top layer of soil, 20 cm thick.

2. Sand is poured into the resulting recess in a layer of 15 cm.

3. Along the intended border of the area, dig a trench with dimensions of 70x70 cm (depth, width). A layer of gravel or sand, 15-20 cm high, is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It is necessary for better drainage of water in the area where the fencing posts are installed.

4. Two rows of wooden posts (on the inside and outside) are installed in the trench, on the drainage layer. Their verticality is controlled by the building level. The posts installed at the ends of the fence are fastened with self-tapping screws. This solution provides stronger adhesion of structural elements and does not allow them to shift and fall out of alignment.

The fence has the appearance of a closed “pocket”, which will later be used as a flower bed framing the terrace. If setting up a flower bed is not part of your plans, then the border can be made in one row by installing bricks, ready-made plastic fencing, etc. in the trench.

5. To prevent soil from being washed out of the future flower bed, a layer of roofing material is placed inside the enclosing “pocket”, placing it on the walls of the posts. The roofing material is laid to the height of the planned level of backfilling with soil. At several points, the waterproofing layer is secured to the walls of the posts with screws or nails.

6. Pegs are driven into the ground, from the wall of the house to the fence, in increments of 3 m and cords are pulled on them with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 linear meter. In this way, the level of sand backfill is outlined, which must form a slope for the drainage of rainwater from the terrace area.

7. The sand backfill is compacted and leveled to the level of the stretched cords, adding, if necessary, the missing amount of sand.

8. Begin installation of clinker tiles. Each tile is laid on a layer of sand, pressed tightly and tapped on the surface with a rubber hammer.

9. The remaining free areas, between the paving and the fence, are covered with large decorative gravel.

10. The seams between the tiles are filled with fine sand using a stiff brush.

11. Excess sand on the surface is washed off with a stream of water from under the hose. The pressure should be small so that the sand does not wash out of the seams.

12. So that rain moisture can flow freely from the paved area, drainage is performed. To do this, a drainage pipe with slots, wrapped in jute fabric, is laid along the fence posts with a slope (so that debris and soil do not get into the slots). To camouflage the surface of the pipe, cover it with gravel.

The end of the laid drainage pipe is connected to the storm sewer pipe. The drain outlet is also connected here through a tee. A gutter with a grate is installed in the desired location.

Option #2. Wooden terrace on gravel

A durable and easy-to-make terrace, built on a gravel backfill, can easily be made from steel profiles (joists), wooden blocks and boards. Since they will practically lie at ground level, for this version of the terrace it is allowed to use only wood from hard, non-rotting species: larch, oak, garapa, teak, merbau, etc. Before use, boards are treated with antiseptics to protect them from moisture, rot, insects, and UV rays.

Progress:

1. At the site of the future site, remove the top layer of soil, 20-30 cm thick.

2. Fill the pit with gravel.

3. Steel profiles are laid on the gravel, forming a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 running meter. The distance between the profiles is about 500-600 mm.

4. Load-bearing beams are attached to the profiles. The distance between the beams is about 600 mm if the thickness of the decking board is 27 mm. With a board thickness of 20 mm, the pitch of the beams will have to be reduced to 400 mm. To additionally protect the beams from moisture, rubber gaskets cut to the width of the boards are placed in places where they come into contact with the profiles.

5. The supporting beams are covered with dark protective fabric (geotextile, for example) to prevent the germination of weeds.

6. Perpendicular to the supporting beams, a flooring is assembled from boards with gaps of 2-3 m. Spacers are installed between the boards and the protective fabric to prevent moisture from accumulating in the floor space. A compensation gap of 1-2 cm is left between the walls and the flooring.

7. Upon completion of assembly, the boardwalk is covered with antiseptics, coloring impregnations or varnish.

Option #3. Terrace on a columnar foundation

A wooden terrace on a columnar foundation is the traditional and most win-win option. The structure is adjacent to the house and, in fact, forms one whole with it. A columnar foundation is capable of raising the platform by 15-60 cm. At the same time, the ventilated space formed under the flooring promotes effective ventilation of the terrace elements and minimizes the possibility of wood rotting.

Step-by-step construction instructions:

1. To connect the future terrace area with the house, the first beam is fixed horizontally on the wall adjacent to it (at the level of the terrace). A galvanized steel drain is mounted above the upper edge of the beam.

2. Excavations are made in the places where concrete pillars are installed. The columns should be installed in increments of 1.5-2 m. The recesses are made taking into account the desired elevation of the terrace, the height of the columns and the required layer of gravel backfill, 10-15 cm thick.

3. Gravel filling is poured into the recesses, then trapezoidal concrete columns are installed. A metal embedded part for square beams is attached to the top platform of each column.

4. The support beams are placed into the embedded parts on the posts and secured with screws.

5. Platform beams are mounted on top of the support beams, perpendicular to them, at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

6. Screw the terrace boards to the platform beams, maintaining 2-3 mm gaps between them. The gaps serve to prevent rainwater from accumulating on the deck and allow it to flow freely into the subfloor.

7. If unprepared edged boards are used for the deck, the surface of the deck may look uneven after installation. Therefore, the floor is leveled with a grinder, bringing all points of the terrace to the same level. After sanding, wood dust is removed and the boards are treated with impregnation - antiseptic or coloring. When using a special decking board, additional surface sanding is not required.

A columnar foundation for a terrace can also be built from flat concrete blocks. A similar option for constructing a terrace is presented in the video:

Option #4. WPC terrace on a pile-screw foundation

Sometimes it is irrational to install a terrace on a columnar foundation. For example, with high groundwater levels, on wet and unstable soils. In this case, the soil will swell and push out the concrete pillars. Difficulties in constructing a columnar foundation can also arise in areas with large differences in levels and on slopes. In all these cases, for light buildings, another type of foundation is more successful - a pile-screw foundation. Screw piles make it possible to raise the terrace platform to the desired height (even 2-3 m!), They perfectly hold the wooden flooring with all the necessary furniture. In addition, screwing in screw piles for a terrace occurs within 1 day.

Let's consider the technology for constructing a lightweight WPC terrace on screw piles.

Progress:

1. Determine the installation points of the piles. They are screwed in in increments of 2-3 m, with mandatory installation in the corners of the future site.

2. Screwing in the piles is done using special equipment or manually. When screwing in manually, a metal scrap is inserted into the slots on the upper end of the pile, which serves as a lever. In the process of turning this lever, the pile breaks the soil with its blades and sinks to the required depth (below the freezing level of the soil).

3. The screwed-in piles are cut to the level of the future supporting frame.

4. Cement mortar is poured into each screwed pile to increase its strength and prevent corrosion of the internal cavity.

5. A steel metal frame made of profile pipes is mounted on top of the piles. The frame has the form of a frame with intermediate elements located in increments of 50-60 cm. The finished frame is coated with a primer, paying special attention to the welding areas.

6. Aluminum logs are laid on the piles. Since the corrosion process starts when aluminum comes into contact with the steel of the frame, it is recommended to lay the logs only through rubber gaskets.

7. The decking boards are attached to aluminum joists using clamps that are inserted into the slot of the joist. The terminals allow you to mount boards without using self-tapping screws and the need to drill holes in them. If the aluminum profile used does not allow the installation of terminals, the decking boards are fastened traditionally - using self-tapping screws.

8. After assembling the composite decking, an enclosing aluminum profile is installed at the ends of the decking. Now a terrace made of composite decking is almost indistinguishable from an expensive wooden structure!

How the work of installing a terrace on screw piles is carried out is shown in the video:

A veranda attached to the house allows you to expand the habitable area and provide a place for comfortable relaxation. Closed (glazed), it further reduces heat loss in the house. The best part is that you can do it yourself. Moreover, there are options that require significant costs, and there are inexpensive ones. There are many varieties both in structure and in the materials used; they can be decorated in any style.

What are there

Depending on the method of construction, a veranda attached to a house can be closed - with glazing - or open. Open ones are used mainly in the warm season, closed ones can serve as a place to relax all year round. A veranda attached to a house can be of two types at once: part can be glazed (closed), part can be open.

There are also walk-through doors - this is when in order to get into the house you pass through it. Such extensions are located on the front side of the house, sometimes on the yard side if there are two exits from the house. Entrance to impassable buildings is only from the house. It is impossible to get outside from such a veranda.

An extension can cover one, two or more sides of the house. If it covers two adjacent parts of the house, it is called a corner. Some of them occupy only part of the wall.

The forms are different. More often it is a rectangle, less often - a hexagon, a semicircle, or other non-standard shapes (these are more difficult to build). In short, these are all types of verandas attached to the house, but without taking into account the materials.

The perimeter extension gives the house an extravagant look

What materials are they made from?

Most often, wooden verandas are made in our area. It is easier to work with wood, and it is not as expensive as in other countries. In areas where wood is very expensive, structural elements are made of metal, and the cladding is selected to suit your taste. It can be glass (double-glazed windows), polycarbonate.

The walls of the veranda are built from brick, shell rock, rubble stone, and building blocks. Just like a house, they are then finished or not, depending on the design of the main building. They can simply make a fence, as in the photo above.

If wood is expensive, or you are reluctant to work with it on a regular basis, the veranda frame is assembled from metal. For this purpose, a profile pipe, corners or channels are most often used - it depends on the material and size of the extension. It is easier to attach double-glazed windows to metal; instead of glazing, you can use polycarbonate. This material can be of different colors and varying degrees of transparency. Despite its apparent fragility, there is a fairly strong material that is used for the construction of greenhouses. And if so, then in the veranda, if it is closed, it will keep the heat well.

Veranda attached to the house: stages of construction

First of all, you need to decide on the type - open/closed, what material it is made of, and choose the type of foundation. It is also necessary to decide what size it will have, where and how it will be located. It is advisable to draw all this on the plan. Even better - order a project. Construction according to a project is rather an exception for us, but at least there is a plan with dimensions and an indication of the location, reference to paths, etc. you must have.

The construction of a veranda for the house with your own hands proceeds according to the following plan (we build it from wood):

1. Use pegs and twine to mark the outlines.
2. Remove the turf and fertile layer. If this is not done, the vegetation under the flooring will rot, spreading aromas.
3. Mark out the foundation. At this stage, questions may arise: what height should it be. If the foundation is made incoherent and “floating”, the level of the veranda flooring should be 5-10 cm below the floor level. This is necessary so that even when raised, the extension does not block the front door. If you don’t want the floor to be lower, you will have to make a high threshold in the front door: to guarantee the freedom of opening the door. The height of the support beam depends on the height of the extension floor. It is nailed to the wall of the house, and floor beams are attached to it. The height of the foundation is marked along its lower edge (these are the next two steps).
4. Nail a support beam to the wall, along the lower edge of which the height of the foundation is measured.

   

   How to mark an extension: nail the support beam at the required level, and mark the height of the foundation along its lower edge

5. Build the foundation.
6. While the concrete gains at least half strength, you complete site preparation. If at the bottom of the pit (the fertile layer has been removed) the soil allows water to pass through well (sandy, sandy loam), add crushed stone to the bottom. It can be compacted, or you can do without it. If there is loam or clay under the fertile layer, you will have to fill the pit either with the same soil (but not fertile) or with clean clay. It must be compacted well to avoid creating voids in which water will accumulate (it is better to lay it soaked to a paste in layers).
7. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the finished foundation.
8. Support posts for the roof are installed and secured.
9. They tie the racks: they nail a beam 100*150 mm thick around the perimeter. It can be nailed to the outside of the studs or between them. Sometimes the racks are nailed after the floor has been laid. This is not the best option: the floor will most quickly become unusable. With such a structure, in order to replace it, you will have to dismantle everything, right down to the roof. If you install the racks first and then the floor, it can be repaired without problems.

   

   This is what the assembled frame of a veranda attached to the house looks like. Intermediate racks are needed only if the width of the veranda is more than 3 meters.

10. Floor beams (beam 100*150 mm) are attached to the foundation and support beam. The step of their installation corresponds to the step of installing piles or columns.
11. Assemble the rafter system.
12. Side railings (for open ones) or walls (for glazed ones) are installed. At this stage, the general technology ends. Further, for indoor ones it is longer; an open veranda is easier to attach to the house:
    • For open ones, floor boards are nailed onto the beams.
    • For glazed ones, an insulated floor is made. The subfloor is nailed to the beams. There are joists on top, insulation between them, and a finished floor on top.
13. Roofing.
14. Wall decoration inside and outside.

These are just general steps. To have a more complete idea of ​​how to make a veranda for a house, we will next consider the most problematic aspects of construction in more detail.

Perhaps you are interested in building a gazebo?

Foundation

If a veranda is attached to a house, the foundations are very rarely made coherent. Firstly, the house has already settled, the shrinkage has passed. If a “fresh” building is rigidly attached to it, problems will inevitably arise. If it is possible to tie them, then only on stable, reliable soils, on which no movement occurs. Secondly, heavy foundations are rarely made for extensions of this type. The building itself turns out to be light - especially an open one made of wood or frame - and the load-bearing capacity is sufficient.

In general, verandas are placed on the same foundations as houses. Another thing is that most of them are on columnar foundations: the costs are small and the time required is short. And although all architects and designers claim that it is much more difficult to install a correct columnar foundation than (though a strip foundation is much more expensive), people install exactly the pillars.

Column and pile foundation

If you decide to attach a veranda to a wooden house, you can install a columnar foundation. To make it yourself, you need to find out at what depth and at what distance the supports are placed. The distance between the columns depends on the material from which the extension will be built. If these are lightweight materials - wood or a light frame structure - you can place them in increments of 1.5 meters. For heavier ones, the distance should be from 1 meter.

Columnar foundation for the veranda - the columns are made of brick. This open veranda is attached to a wooden house. The house stands on a strip foundation. The foundations of the extension and the house are not connected

When choosing the depth of columns, there are two approaches:

• Bury below the freezing depth of the soil. This is done on water-saturated soils that are prone to heaving. In this case, the veranda will stand at the same level without changing its position, regardless of the heaving forces. For a columnar foundation, this only makes sense if the freezing depth is no more than 1.2 meters. At greater depths it is easier to make a pile foundation (better -). Holes for piles are not very difficult to make even if you need to drill 2 meters. To install posts for each of them, digging a pit of the same depth is difficult and time-consuming.
• Make a shallow foundation: 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. In this case, get a floating veranda that will float and lower during frost heaving. It is much easier to build such a structure, but every spring you will have to deal with the consequences of heaving. Different pillars will “walk” differently and the situation will have to be corrected somehow. But this is on heaving soils (clays, loams). On stable soils that are not prone to heaving there will be no such problems.

What is good about this option for the foundation for the veranda of the house? It is quickly built, the cost of work and building materials is low.

The veranda is attached to a brick house on a strip foundation. They put it on . It differs from columnar in that the piles are either screwed in/driven ready-made, or poured into the formwork and are monolithic.

Disadvantages: difficult to predict his behavior. Moreover, both deep and shallow. With a shallow foundation, everything depends on winter and the degree of soil saturation with water, which is impossible to predict and calculate. When buried deep, there is also a problem: it is not known what is under each of the piles. After all, geological surveys cannot be done at all points. And in those areas where the soil has a complex layered structure, it is quite possible to get into some kind of pocket, due to which the pile will not behave as expected. Also in the case of piles or deeply buried columns, it is necessary to remember about lateral heaving forces. They may well break long and thin piles or pillars. Therefore, on problematic soils, strong formwork (metal, asbestos) is used for piles and they are also reinforced: when making pillars, a steel pipe coated with a primer is inserted inside, around which the masonry is laid. It is also possible to lay reinforcing belts. When making bored piles, three or four reinforcement rods must be inserted inside, which add strength to them. Building a veranda with your own hands on a pile foundation can be done quickly and inexpensively, but the risks on heaving soils are great.

Monolithic: strip and slab

If you are going to build a veranda from brick, rubble or other similar heavy materials, and even with heavy cladding, you need a monolithic foundation. You will have to either cast a tape or make a slab. They are made according to all the rules without any exceptions: with formwork, reinforcement, vibration, etc. Completely based on technology.

When building such a foundation, it can already be connected to the main one: you will have to build it to the same depth and, most likely, it will behave stably.

Advantages: high reliability and stability. Disadvantages: significant cost and lengthy construction process.

Bedding

If the house is located on dry soils or in a region where frost heaving is just a horror story, if it does not have a base, a veranda attached to the house can do without a foundation. In this case, the fertile layer is removed along with the vegetation, the bottom of the pit is compacted, then crushed stone is filled in, compacted, then sand, which is also compacted. On this base you can already lay a flooring: wooden, paving slabs or slabs.

A veranda attached to a house can be without a foundation

One “but”: the racks on which the roof will rest still need to be strengthened in some way. Small piles are made for them or columns are laid (from approximately the same depth where they began laying crushed stone under the flooring).

How thick should I make the bedding? It depends, firstly, on the thickness of the fertile layer, and secondly, on the choice of floor covering. If these are wooden panels (as in the photo), you need to choose the layers so that they lie flush with the ground. If you are planning to lay paving slabs, you will have to consider their thickness. Although, it can be raised slightly above ground level to separate it from the yard. But then they put a border along the edge.

In this photo, the open veranda is attached to the house without a foundation - it’s more like a summer shed with a polycarbonate roof and an open wooden fence

How to attach the stand and bottom trim

Work on the construction of the veranda frame begins after the foundation concrete (if used) has gained some strength. 50% of the calculated value is enough, and this at a temperature of +20° C will happen in 4-5 days. Then, on top of the concrete, in those places where the posts or trim will be attached, two layers of waterproofing are laid. It can be roofing felt, roofing felt, folded in half. You can coat it twice with bitumen mastic or use other modern materials.

Then there are two ways:

• secure the racks and then the harness;
• first the strapping, there are stands for them.

If the first option is chosen, special holders are inserted into the foundation when pouring. These can be different devices (see photo), but the most convenient is a metal plate in the form of an inverted letter “P”, to the bottom of which a pin is welded, which is walled up in the foundation. A stand is inserted into this plate (the end must be treated with an antiseptic), its level is checked, and secured with bolts or nails.

How to attach posts to the foundation

After all the posts have been positioned and secured, the framing bars are nailed between them.

With the second option, the situation is different: the racks will have to be attached to the harness. The strapping beam is attached first. It is more convenient to do this if studs are embedded into the concrete at some intervals. Then holes are made in the beam in the right places, it is put on studs and secured with bolts. Then, using one of the methods suggested in the photo, the racks are installed.

Options for attaching racks to strapping beams

Any of these methods does not exclude the use of metal corners. They make the fastening more reliable, which is very important in this case. After all, the racks will support the roof, as well as the walls or fence.

Attaching the joist to the harness

They can be mounted on top of the harness, or at the same level with its top edge. You need to decide exactly how you will do this at the very beginning of the work: this will determine at what level it will be necessary to attach the support beam to the wall of the house (the height of the joists is taken into account or not). Methods for attaching floor joists are shown in the photo below.

How to attach floor joists to the frame

Attaching the roof of the veranda

The porch attached to the house is usually covered with the same type of roofing as the crowbar. There may be several options, and the organization of the roof connection depends on how and to which wall you attach it. If the roof is a continuation of the roof slope of the house, you need to join two rafter systems. In this case, they say that the roof of the veranda is adjacent to the roof of the house.

Then the procedure is as follows:

• The top trims are attached to the veranda posts.
• Transverse ceiling beams are nailed to the frame. The ceiling is then sewn to them.
• The long rafter legs of the house are shortened. They should not protrude beyond the wall.
• Veranda rafters are made from planed boards, which are cut at an angle from the roof side so that they adjoin the existing ones (see photo below). To make it easier to work, you can make a template, according to which you can then prepare the rafters on the ground. The rafter legs are attached to the house system through nails; metal reinforcing pads can be placed on the sides.
• To increase the rigidity of the structure, spacers (anti-snow supports) are installed between the rafters of the house and the extension. They are shown in the photo explaining the design.

If the width of the veranda is more than 2 meters or heavy roofing material will be used, spacers are installed to prevent the support beam from sagging. It is better not to nail them on the side, but rather to insert them between the ceiling beam and the rafter leg.

In order to prevent the roof from sagging, spacers are installed between the ceiling beams and rafters

More often it turns out that the roof of the veranda attached to the house is adjacent to the wall. In this case, a groove is made in the wall, a special wall profile is placed in it, the other side of which is laid on the roof covering. The place where it joins the wall is sealed with sealant.

The second option differs only in the shape of the wall profile: it can be made independently from a sheet of roofing iron. This design is distinguished by the presence of a beam, which allows you to move the bend away from the wall of the house and cover possible errors when laying roofing material at the junction. Also, in this option, the apron is not attached directly to the wall material, but to a beam with a beveled edge, mounted in the groove.

The second option for connecting the roof of the extension to the wall of the house

Some questions may arise about how to attach the rafters to the outer top frame, because its dimensions do not allow making cuts, as on the mauerlat. The solution is the usual: using corners (see photo). Instead of corners, you can use small cross-section bars.

Maybe not the most elegant solution, but reliable. After everything is covered with roofing on top, clapboards will be added underneath, they will not be visible.