I switched to the lock after the chiropractor noticed that my back was developed asymmetrically. After I told her that I was pulling with a different grip, an explanation for this phenomenon was found. There is nothing good in asymmetry, and I had enough problems with my back then, and I began to gradually retrain to the lock.

Now there are no problems with the grip, the bald neck is held in the hands without problems, there is no need to be distracted by the fact that the bar will slip out of the hands and the approach will be unsuccessful. In training, you completely focus on traction, without the risk of “ramming” in competitions for the simple reason that the hands do not hold what the back pulls (pulling in training with a single grip in straps is not an option). Weightlifters grab the bar, especially in the snatch, using their thumb instead of a strap (photo 5), and grabbing it as much as possible.

So, how and where to start the transition to the good old castle.

It is better to retrain at the beginning of the training cycle, trying to do more approaches with the lock in each workout. For example, in the first workout, the whole warm-up is done with the lock, in the second - the warm-up and the first working approach, and so on. You don’t need to torment your fingers much, but the load must be increased.

Be sure to first stretch the brushes, do traction with a small weight, holding the barbell with a lock.

Wrap around the bar, placing your thumb under your index and middle fingers (Pic 1, 2 and 3). If the fingers are long, then the entire phalanx, if not, how many will turn out (photo 8, 9, 10, 11, 12). With magnesia, I smear my thumbs and those fingers with which I intercept the thumb (6, 7): more friction - better grip. When it hurts, or when the callus begins to peel off, then magnesia also helps.

You can also dissolve rosin in alcohol and rub your hands with this composition.

I noticed for myself that when the thumbs are very painful (this happens after a long break - the fingers wean), after performing the thrust, you need to release the bar slowly. If it seems that the fingers are short and it is not possible to grab the barbell, you can use the experience of weightlifters - grow a nail on the thumb to increase its length, and also wrap the tips of the thumbs with a plaster to reduce slipping. I didn’t grow my nails - I don’t know, the plaster only interfered with me, that is, magnesia became the most useful for me. Nevertheless, a patch with a nail helps others, but you need to try and everything is possible. I wish you "wild" traction!

P.S. In this article I have used personal experience, as well as the experience of Yu. Ustinov, Yu. Ivanov, V. Nasledov, N. Vitkevich

The lock grip can be quite difficult for a novice athlete who is just starting to try it out. This is especially true for athletes with small palms and in particular those who have full fingers. And the only way to get used to it is to constantly use it. The main reason why all the weightlifters in the world use the lock grip is that when you give the bar acceleration in the snatch or cleanup, you can no longer hold it properly without this lock.

Even if you have small hands and think you will never be able to lock the bar, remember that even the men in the 56kg weight class use it when doing the snatch and clean with the same 28mm bar. which almost all of us use. Halil Mutlu (three-time Olympic champion in weightlifting) performed 138 kg with a body weight of 56 kg using a lock grip. And if a person with such small hands is able to hold such a weight while performing a snatch, then you can handle it.

First, when you take the starting position to perform a snatch or take the barbell on the chest, then press the gap between your thumb and forefinger into the barbell as much as possible, and then grasp it first with your thumb, and then with all the other fingers of the palm of your hand. This will allow you to stretch your thumb even further.

Also, make sure you're doing this grip correctly. Don't just pinch your thumb between the barbell and your other fingers: first grab the bar with your thumb, then grab your thumb with the other two and pull it a little further forward around the bar.

Most people need to do some stretching before they feel they can do this grip completely safely. The easiest way to achieve this is to simply use a lock grip on every lift. Your thumbs will get the right (slight) stretch, your hands will get used to the position and you will generally feel more comfortable using this grip.

You can also stretch using what I call the "girl punch" (I don't want to offend anyone - none of my students would ever punch in this way). Clench your fingers into a fist with your thumb inside, tightly grasp it with the rest of your fingers and bend your wrist towards the elbow - in the opposite direction from the thumb. You should feel a stretch around the base of your thumb and a little in your wrist. You can also bend your wrist in this position to get an extra and slightly different stretch.

In addition, you can try to do with more weight, using the lock grip. This will help to achieve a good stretch of the thumbs and strengthen the grip. In addition, the chance that the bar will begin to slip is much lower than when performing a snatch or clean. But it's painful enough that most people will feel like their thumbs are breaking in a vise.

Finally, you can wrap your thumbs in plaster. Make sure you use a soft patch so your joints can move freely. Sometimes using a band-aid allows you to get more friction with the bar, and therefore a greater sense of security.

Who at least once engaged in the choice of the entrance metal door, probably encountered pulls, deviators and crabs. These are additional locking devices that climb out of the door leaf from all sides when turning the keys in the locks.

In this article, we will figure out how all this economy is correctly called, how it works, and also draw conclusions: in principle, all this is necessary for locks and doors, or not.

Definitions

You need to start with definitions. This will allow us to no longer dwell on understanding, not to waste time looking for associations in our head, but simply to absorb information.

So, additional locking of the web in the box can be provided by four types of devices.

Anti-detachable pins or anti-detachable labyrinth

In fact, these are passive fixed ledges of the canvas located on the side of the loop vertical. When the canvas is slammed, do they either go into the groove? or into holes in the box (depending on the shape of the ledge).

Both the anti-removal pins and the labyrinth cope with their main task - to prevent the web from being removed through the loop zone after the loops have been cut. Well, provided that these elements are correctly executed.

That's it, we will no longer touch on the anti-removable elements here, because the passive elements of the door structure. And the task was to highlight the active crossbars of additional locking, which are connected to the locks.

Lock rods

If, when the key is turned in the lock, one crossbar comes out at the top and bottom of the canvas, this, friends, is called rods.

As you may have guessed, the rods are connected to the locks through special outputs. Accordingly, if in the considered model of the lock there are no outlets for traction, then it is impossible to connect them to it.

Deviators

Additional bolts that horizontally exit the door leaf when closing the locks are called deviators.

Deviators are connected to the locks all through the same outlets for rods, and are usually located in the corners of the leaf along the castle vertical. Deviators come in a variety of shapes and types: from classic round cross-section bolts to all sorts of hook-shaped ones.

key crabs

The locking crabs in the doors were the same ordinary rods, which, in addition to the upper corner, also locked the opposite side of the canvas from the lock.

Roughly speaking, crabs are 2 vertical and 1 horizontal bolt connected to the castle. Crabs were previously installed mainly on Israeli-made doors. Multilocks, Superlocks, etc. Currently, locking crabs on household doors are practically never found, and they are dear to them.

The need for additional locking

The main purpose of the additional locking is to protect the door from breaking with lever tools. If they try to wring out or break the door, then they begin to crowbar or work with a crowbar in the corner along the castle vertical. Because the corner is “empty” - the crossbars of the locks are concentrated in the center of the door leaf. And if we put a thrust or a deviator here, the work of a rogue becomes more difficult when breaking into.

Additional locking up - down, or sideways with deviators, does not increase the protection of the door from intelligent types of opening. If the locks are opened, then all the pins connected to them will also go into the door leaf.

Generally speaking, additional locking points are a useful thing. But this is only an additional non-main part of the security door, which does not need to go in cycles. If you're choosing a door on a budget, it's best to look at your current door locking system, perhaps more high class protection, rather than investing in rods or deviators, which will eventually be connected to low-quality unprotected locks.

The locking system must match the metal structure you choose. Just locking in different directions does not make a cool protective product out of the door.

Some manufacturers have doors that are equipped with rods by default. Nothing just happens, so here it is worth thinking about and analyzing why an additional expensive locking is suddenly installed as a gift. The fact is that in some doors, vertical locking by default is necessary so that the door does not fly out of the opening under a kick and are not picked out of the box with a screwdriver. Therefore, the installation of rods on doors of this type is a forced measure, and not the generosity of an individual manufacturer.

We emphasize that all these problems are not related to the presence of additional locking points in general, but to the crappy quality of the manufacturing of the entire door and its components. Even perfectly connected rods, deviators, or crabs create an additional load on the lock during operation. This must be accepted as a fact. If two locks are placed in ideal working conditions. And to hang rods or deviators to one of them, then the lock to which nothing was attached will work longer. Although it is necessary to make a footnote that if the lock is of high quality, the additional locking devices are connected correctly, all this economy can work out for more than a dozen years.

An unpleasant moment that you can grab when ordering rods is their strumming. In the doors of some manufacturers, the rods are mounted without guides and without framing tubes. When the locks are working, the rods connected in this way often click with a ringing metallic sound.

Well, the last one is not a minus, but rather a consequence of connecting additional locking points - this is an increase in the cost of the door. It is quite obvious that additional devices, as well as the work of connecting them, cost money. And some manufacturers have very decent money. So, as always, you need to choose rationally, weighing all the pros and cons.

conclusions

In general, any additional points and locking devices in the door are a blessing. They increase the protective properties of the product, prevent forceful methods of opening the canvas. But in order for vertical locking to work, it must be connected correctly.

That is, the weight of the rods should not exceed the maximum allowable values ​​for a particular lock model, as a rule it is up to 800 grams per piece.

The rods should be connected to the locks with self-locking nuts, or with another connection that will prevent self-unwinding from vibration.

The holes for the bolts of such devices in the box should be made to a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the locking bolt.

Quite often, manufacturers integrate a vertical crossbar system into metal entrance doors. Vertical bolts are metal bolts located at the top and bottom of the door, which, when the lock is locked, slide up and down into the door frame. According to the manufacturers, this increases the security of the door and prevents the top and bottom of the leaf from bending. In fact, this is not an increase in protection, but an increase in the price of an iron door for a completely unnecessary mechanism. Let's take a closer look at whether vertical crossbars are necessary for front door in the apartment?

What kind of door is this, at which you can bend the upper and lower parts of the canvas, what kind of metal is there, who needs such a “tin can”? Have you ever heard of thieves knocking out iron doors a sledgehammer in a residential building? The answer will naturally be one - no! It will not be difficult for a thief to open a door with crossbars silently, by opening the lock, the crossbars will also open.