Those who want to grow bell peppers - in a polycarbonate greenhouse or open ground - should be prepared for the fact that this plant requires special care. Many points are important here - preparing seedlings, planting in a permanent place, temperature conditions, soil moisture levels, fertilizing, and so on. In other words, the process is very labor-intensive. In this case, such a procedure as the formation of a bush is very important. If everything is done correctly, you will increase, and significantly, the volume of the harvest. In addition, this procedure has a positive effect on the quality of the fruit and its size.

Forming a pepper bush - diagram and procedure

First, let's take a little more detailed look at why this procedure is needed. It should be noted right away that the formation of a bush is not carried out for every variety. Low-growing species of this crop do not need such a procedure. The formation of a bush is carried out only when growing hybrids and tall varieties.

The main task here is to form a strong and at the same time compact bush with fairly powerful shoots. Generally speaking, you need to remove everything unnecessary in order to direct all the plant’s resources not to the formation of green mass, which is, in fact, ballast, but to the development of fruits.

Proper bush formation requires maintaining a balance when pruning. It is important to avoid mistakes here. The thing is that a pepper that is cut too much will no longer be able to synthesize energy in the amount necessary to obtain a good harvest. Accordingly, the removal of excess greenery and unnecessary shoots should be moderate.

Particular attention should be paid to the tool you will be using. Scissors, pruning shears or knives must be clean, sharp and free from jagged edges. Otherwise, you run a high risk of damaging the plant or introducing an infection into it after pruning.

It is recommended to form a bush when the plant stem grows to 20-25 centimeters. The thing is that it is during this period that the process of the first branching and the formation of the crown bud begins. By this time, at least 8 leaves should appear on the main shoot. Also here 2-4 lateral shoots of the so-called first order are formed. From these, in fact, we will choose the first skeletal branches of our bush. The strongest and most developed branches are suitable for this.

There are 3 schemes for forming a bush of tall varieties:

• 2-stem;
• 3-stem;
• 4-stem.

The most common of them is the first, so we will consider it in more detail. The process itself can be divided into 4 stages. First, we will need to remove the crown bud. As mentioned above, after the stem grows to about 20 centimeters, the branching process begins. The crown bud is formed in this very fork. Its removal has a positive effect on further branching. Sometimes it happens that several crown buds form on the pepper at once. All of them must be removed.

At the second stage, it is necessary to remove unnecessary shoots, leaving the 2 strongest ones. They will be the skeletal branches of our bush. Now comes the turn of such a procedure as pinching. Its essence is to trim the top of the branches and growth points. By the time the bush needs to be formed, leaves appear on the plant. You only need to leave one per branch - it is needed so that the ovary of the future fruit receives the necessary nutrients. The remaining leaves should be removed.

On each of the branches, forks with a bud are subsequently formed. We choose the strongest one among the new shoots, while the rest must be separated from the first leaf. This procedure is carried out every time a new branch of the bush occurs. It is necessary to remove the buds that form in the internodes.

At the third stage of bush formation, we remove the lower leaves and barren shoots that form during the growing season. They appear on the main stem, below the first branch. These shoots must be removed - just like leaves, which do not take any part in the process of supplying the fruit with nutrients. There is one important point to note here. In order not to harm the plant, you need to remove no more than 2 leaves at a time. They are removed from all parts of the bush.

And finally, the last, fourth stage - here we need to pin the main branches. This procedure is carried out when a sufficient number of fruits are formed on the bush - at least 15 pieces. On the main branches we need to pin all the main growth points. This procedure allows the plant to concentrate on fruit development. That is, energy will no longer be spent on the formation of the ovary and the growth of greenery.

All summer residents want their pepper harvest to be rich. In this regard, a search begins on the Internet for non-standard agricultural techniques that will allow you to achieve the desired result without significant labor and monetary costs.

Our experience

I can’t pretend to be the ultimate truth, but I’ll share our experience - we almost never pluck either the shoots or leaves from peppers, even when the height of the bushes reaches 1 m.

For a good harvest, you need to pick the very first fruit on time. If you give it free rein, it will grow too large and absorb most of the plant's strength.

We also always cut off all the color and buds of the pepper (if any) when planting it in a permanent place.

Exceptions:

• In rainy summers with high air humidity, we tear off individual leaves that may have contact with the ground, because it is through them that fungus and other diseases can come.
• When planting seedlings in a permanent place, we sometimes tear off those lower leaves that interfere with the planting process.
• We also try to remove diseased, dried and pest-infested leaves throughout the growing season.

Initially, try to plant your peppers at a sufficient distance from each other so that they do not have problems with the nutritional base in the future. In addition, such plantings will be better ventilated (there will be no stagnation of moisture and overheating), and the sun's rays will be able to fully reach each plant.

Galina Kizima's opinion

At the same time, in the newspaper “Gardener” I read a different opinion from Galina Kizima. She recommends not picking off the leaves before the plant enters the fruiting phase, but immediately after gradually removing all the stepsons and lower leaves located below the 1st fork of the main stem. In the very first fork, the gardener advises leaving only 2 branches, trimming the rest according to the principle: 1 leaf - 1 fruit.

When branching (second branching) 2 branches left, Kizima advises cutting out all the branches growing towards the inside of the bush.

• plucking out excess buds so that the bush is optimally loaded;
• optimal planting density to obtain maximum yield - up to 8 bushes per 1 m2;
• topping at the end of July - the first half of August (it is necessary to tear off all the tops and buds on the bushes so that the bushes direct all their efforts to growing existing fruits, and not to forming new ones, which will require at least another month to develop).

Do you plant your greenhouse peppers or leave everything as is? Share your opinion in the comments.

The formation of any bush plant allows you to increase its yield under conditions of a shortened growing cycle. And peppers in a greenhouse are no exception, especially if there are no conditions for additional lighting and heating.
In our climate, even with good and warm shelter, heat-loving crops simply do not have time to “bring” all the resulting fruits to biological ripeness. Therefore, it is necessary to limit their number, and this is done precisely through the formation of bushes.

Mostly tall varieties need pinching, pruning and removal of excess shoots. For medium-sized plants, only barren and lower shoots are removed in order to rid the bush of non-fruit-bearing “parasites” and improve its ventilation and illumination.

But dwarf and low-growing varieties bear fruit well even without formation; this has to be done only if the planting scheme was too dense and the plants are poorly illuminated by the sun due to their excessive density. Also, in dense plantings due to poor ventilation, diseases are more likely to occur, which lead to spoilage of fruits and reduced yields.

Note! Any manipulations to form pepper bushes are permissible only if the plants are healthy, and only with a clean tool (scissors, pruners). Otherwise, it is easy to transfer pathogens from diseased bushes to healthy ones.

Rules for the formation of pepper

The formation of a pepper bush in a greenhouse does not occur in one step, but consists of several main stages and regular removal of yellowed and damaged leaves. In addition, tall varieties should be tied up, periodically wrapping each stem around a vertically stretched twine or support.

Stage one - removal of the crown bud

Up to a certain point, the pepper grows in one stem, but when it reaches a height of 15-20 cm (depending on the variety), it begins to branch, forming several branches. At the branching site, the first flower bud is formed, which vegetable growers call the crown bud.
It should be removed for better branching and development of the bush.

If you grow seedlings with your own hands, then the moment of formation begins may occur at a time when the seedlings have not yet been transplanted into the greenhouse. But there is no point in delaying it.

Stage two - removing excess shoots

Most often, plants form in two or three shoots, leaving the strongest of those formed from a fork with a crown bud. The rest are pinched - that is, the growing point, the top, is cut off.
As a rule, by this time 10-12 leaves have already formed on the bush. The remaining shoots of the first order are called skeletal, and they will form the bush.
What to do next:

• The skeletal branches soon begin to branch in the same way as the main stem, forming a “fork” in the center of which a bud forms.
• We do the same with such branches: we leave the strongest shoot, and pinch the weak ones above the flower bud and the first leaf.

For reference. It is imperative to leave one leaf on the removed shoot, since it nourishes the ovary of the future fruit located underneath it.

main stem (bole);

shoots of the first order;

second order shoots;

main skeletal branches.

• With each subsequent branching we do the same thing, pinching out weak shoots above the first leaf.

Flower buds will appear on each branch, and subsequently ovaries. They are left, and those that grow in the internodes are removed. In total, it is enough to leave 15-25 fruits on one bush.

Stage three - removal of fruitless shoots and lower leaves

The instructions for growing peppers recommend periodically inspecting the developing bush and identifying infertile shoots and removing them. They form below the place where the main stem branches.
There you should also remove leaves that do not participate in any way in feeding the ovaries, but shade the plantings and suck the juices out of the plant.

Advice. At the same time as this activity, remove damaged and diseased leaves from the bush, wherever they grow. The price of the issue is the health of the entire plant.

It is important to remember that the formation of ovaries, growth and ripening of fruits depend primarily on. If the plant does not have enough light, even with abundant flowering, fruits may not set.
Therefore, as you grow, you will need to trim off all excess leaves:

• The leaves on the main stem are cut off when the fruits from the first cluster reach technical ripeness (size and shape corresponding to the variety).

• When the fruits on the second cluster grow, the leaves located under it are removed.

Attention! You can cut no more than two leaves at a time!

• Do the same with the leaves under all other ripening fruits. But the last removal must be done about a month and a half before the end of the season and the final harvest. During this time, the plant should be left alone.

Stage four - pinching skeletal branches

When a sufficient number of fruits have formed on the bush, pinching the growth points on the main branches helps to speed up their growth. The plant stops growing and spending energy on new ovaries, completely directing them to existing ones.
This process should also be carried out one and a half months before the expected end of growing peppers. You will learn more about the formation of peppers by watching the video in this article.

Conclusion

You should think about the formation of bushes even at the stage of planting seedlings: the scheme of planting peppers in a greenhouse can seriously affect this process. In addition, it is advisable to consider the design of trellises for tall varieties, in which each skeletal shoot is tied separately.
If you do not ignore these important pepper care processes, it will thank you with an excellent harvest.

They have a significant advantage for working gardeners who cannot come to their plots during the week. So-called “Sunday” amateur gardeners visit their plots on weekends, water them and limited to on-call care for plants. The formation of peppers in a greenhouse, as such, is not of interest to them.

What is it for?

If you take a serious approach to growing different varieties of sweet peppers (read the link about the peculiarities of growing bell peppers in a greenhouse), the question arises of increasing its yield. Pepper in a greenhouse is a bush culture, and the correct formation of the bush significantly influences on the ability to bear fruit and fruit ripening speed.

In areas of the middle zone, where summers are shorter and cooler, peppers have to be grown mostly in greenhouses. Under these conditions, artificially limiting the appearance of new ovaries makes it possible to ensure the maturation of those that already exist.

Moreover, it is possible to purposefully influence plants in order to direct their efforts either to increase the number of fruits or to enlarge them. Usually, of course, interest in the quality of the harvest wins. Farmers and experienced gardeners do not neglect this opportunity, especially when it comes to tall varieties.

If, in addition to peppers, you have cucumbers planted in your greenhouse, then you can find out about the formation of their play, as well as the compatibility of cultivation with peppers, on our website.

Value for different varieties

Tall varieties of peppers cannot be grown without forming the crown of the bush and tying up each branch. Medium-sized varieties can be satisfied by removing the lower shoots and barren branches.

This plant gets rid of unproductive expenses on their maintenance, and also improves the illumination and ventilation of all elements of the bush.

If the variety is undersized, and especially dwarf, then it is not worth cultivating it at all. Unless the seedlings are planted too densely. This entails increased density of tops, is fraught with plant diseases and a slowdown in their development. In this case, willy-nilly, you will have to start forming the crown of the bushes, otherwise things will not go well with the harvest.

How to form a bush correctly?

The yield of peppers grown in a greenhouse directly depends on how well the bushes are formed. For different varieties various formation options are used. Also, the nature of the formation depends on whether the greenhouse is heated or not.

Bushes growing in open ground or in an unheated greenhouse can grow up to 60 cm. If the greenhouse is heated, then the bushes will be taller and the fruits can be grown larger.

Forming a pepper bush includes into yourself like that stages:

• determining the correct planting scheme;
• removal of a crown bud, one or more;
• pinching, or removing excess shoots;
• ridding the plant of excess leaves and barren shoots;
• pinching skeletal branches.

Attention: operations within the framework of the formation of pepper bushes are only permissible for completely healthy plants. By working with pruning shears or scissors without disinfecting them after each plant, you can, without noticing it, transfer the disease from a diseased plant to healthy ones.

Let's look at the stages of bush formation in more detail.

Pepper planting scheme

Usually on the package of pepper seeds there is a recommendation regarding the planting scheme for a given variety. It is determined, as a rule, based on the size to which the bush can grow.

You need to think in advance about how to distribute the sprouts when planting them in a greenhouse. If the variety is low-growing, then with an optimal planting scheme it will not have to be pinched. But a tall variety will not avoid this procedure in any case.

Moreover, the features stepsons directly depend because What scheme are the plants planted in?. As a matter of fact, each greenhouse has its own individuality, so you need to look for the optimal planting scheme specifically for your greenhouse. You'll have to experiment a little, but it's worth it.

Removing the crown bud

The crown bud (or crown flower) is the name given to the flower ovaries that form in the first fork on the main stem - the stem of the pepper. The pepper first grows with one stem, up to about 15-20 cm, it depends on the variety. Then it begins to branch, and to ensure proper branching, the crown bud is immediately removed. This ensures improved nutrition for the ovaries located above the fork.

Stepsoning

The purpose of the operation is the redistribution of juices and nutrients in favor of improving the quality of fruiting. Pepper, as one of the crops most commonly grown in greenhouses, needs careful formation of the bush. And stepsoning is a tool for such formation.

You need to start using this tool early so that the bush is formed as needed. Pinching involves removing the side shoots that appear during the growth of the stem.

Wherein flowers are also removed which are interpreted as infertile, and extra leaves. Why waste plant energy and nutrients? So they remove everything unnecessary, following the principle of expediency.

This is the order in which it is done. First, as already mentioned, a stem appears. 2-3 shoots are left on it, the strongest, of those released from the fork with the crown bud. These are shoots of the 1st order. They are called skeletal because they really play the role of the skeleton of the entire bush as a whole.

The top of all other shoots, which is the growth point, is cut off. Usually at this time there are already 10-12 leaves on the bush.

Skeletal branches are subject to the same ability to branch. At the branching point, the so-called “fork,” a bud is also formed in due course. We proceed with the fork according to the same principle: we leave the strong and healthy shoot, we pinch out the weak ones.

We cut off the shoot, stepping back upward from the first leaf and flower bud. The bud, as a rule, remains on the main stem. Total it is recommended to leave 15-25 ovaries on one bush, then they will produce large fruits.

When removing a shoot, it is necessary to leave one leaf, since the nutrition of the ovary located under it depends on it.

Each subsequent division is subjected to similar treatment: the strongest shoot is left, and the rest are removed after the first leaf. The bush should have the following structure:

Figure 1 – Diagram of the structure of a pepper bush grown in a greenhouse.

1 – main stem, or stem;
2 – shoots of the 1st order;
3 – shoots of the 2nd order;
4 – skeletal branches

Removing excess leaves and fruitless shoots

On the main stem, below the branching, unnecessary shoots may appear and leaves. They must be removed immediately, and for this it is necessary to inspect the pepper bushes more often. It is also necessary to remove leaves that obscure the light of the ovaries and waste juices.

If there is little light, then the fruits may well not set at all, even if flowering has occurred and was abundant. That's why extra leaves necessary cut off decisively with an unwavering hand.

Unhealthy and damaged leaves should also be removed immediately. It doesn’t matter at all where exactly they grew up. Sometimes at the cost of timely removal of diseased leaves manages to save the entire bush.

When the fruits on the first cluster reach the level of technical ripeness, the leaves on the pepper stem are cut off. Similarly, when the fruits on the second cluster reach the same level of maturity, the leaves growing under it are cut off.

And so on, according to the same scheme: remove the leaves under the fruits. You just need to remember that the last time such removal is done is no later than one and a half months in advance before the planned completion of harvesting work. We must finally leave the plant alone and allow it to work at full capacity in the final season.

Attention: Under no circumstances should you remove all the leaves at once, this will cause shock to the plant. You can cut 2 leaves at a time, no more, so that a fatal outcome does not occur.

Pinching skeletal branches

Having taken care of the formation of the required number of fruits on the bush, it is necessary to provide conditions for their ripening. For this it is necessary stop the process of further formation of ovaries, then the plant’s forces will not be dispersed.

In pursuit of these goals, we carry out the last pinching a month and a half before the expected end of the season: cut off the tops of all skeletal branches. By eliminating growth points, it is possible to concentrate the bush’s efforts on servicing the existing fruits.

Just at this time, the mass formation of peppers in the greenhouse occurs, and the measures taken allow the fruits to ripen much faster, turn out ripe, with excellent taste.

After trying to grow sweet peppers in your greenhouse, a savvy gardener will realize that the issue of bush formation should not be neglected. The type of harvest he will receive depends on how this problem is solved. Either abundant, with selected and sweet fruits, or unimportant, with a large number of small fruits that do not shine in either appearance or taste.

Bell peppers are our favorite vegetable. It is not just tasty, it is a storehouse of vitamins, of which there are up to 30, as well as other vital substances. Sweet pepper has a wonderful property. It retains many useful qualities in dry and ground form and practically does not lose them during canning.

Formed vegetable pepper bush. © OakleyOriginals

Each gardener, growing vegetables on his plot, tries to get a large harvest and, not knowing all the basics of agronomy, often spends energy, time and money ineffectively.

Trying to grow a large harvest, the owner intensively feeds the plants, waters them to exhaustion, poisons them, protecting them from diseases and pests. Of course, these techniques give positive results, but there are methods that will ensure a high yield at a significantly lower cost of money, time and health. This technique includes the formation of a pepper bush, just as tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and other vegetable crops are formed.

Is it always necessary to form sweet peppers?

Experienced vegetable growers consider the formation of sweet peppers a necessary technique for increasing the yield and size of the fruit. Beginners practically do not use it, believing that even without the formation of a bush, pepper will produce a large harvest if heat, lighting, watering and fertilizing are provided.

For vegetable growers who ignore the formation of a sweet pepper bush, breeders offer varieties and hybrids that can be grown without this technique. The following low-growing, weakly branching pepper varieties and hybrids do not require cultivation.

• Low-branching pepper varieties: Florida, Barguzin, Topolin, Zodiac, Alyosha Popovich, Bagration, Lumina (Belozerka), Dobryak, Victoria, Bogatyr, Ilya Muromets, Lastochka, Gift of Moldova, Dobrynya Nikitich and others.
• Low-branching pepper hybrids: Pinocchio F1, Claudio F1, Othello F1, Goodwin F1, Gemini F1, Maxim F1, Mercury F1 and others.

For low-growing bushes (40-65 cm) of pepper, it is enough to cut out weak, sterile shoots that grow inward. Tall ones form a large vegetative mass, which takes away the nutrients the plants need for fruit development. Let's try to figure out what opportunities the gardener is missing by not using the technique of forming tall varieties of sweet pepper, which significantly increases the yield of the vitamin product.

Tall peppers include the bushes of which reach a height of 100–200 cm. The densely growing above-ground mass creates ideal conditions for the development of diseases and pests. They must be thinned out to improve ventilation, lighting, and nutrition. Therefore, all tall varieties and hybrids of peppers require the formation of bushes.

Forming a pepper is not a one-time process of cutting off vegetative shoots or pinching leaves. Formation includes several techniques and is carried out in several stages.

Thickened vegetable pepper bush. © millworkman

Rules for the formation of sweet peppers in greenhouse culture

In the limited space of protected soil, only proper formation can increase the yield and size of pepper fruits. In an optimal greenhouse environment, the bush will grow luxuriantly to the detriment of the development of generative organs. As a rule, crops are grown in a greenhouse through seedlings.

Seedling period

When growing pepper seedlings independently, the formation of a bush begins when the seedling reaches 15-20 cm in height. Usually at this height the stem of peppers begins to branch, dividing into 2 branches. A bud appears at the fork of the branch, which can bloom before being transplanted into the greenhouse. This bud is called the crown bud. It is usually removed to allow further branching of the pepper bush. Each branch will form fruits and due to this the overall harvest will increase.

When independently obtaining pepper seeds, the crown bud is left on 1-2 bushes. It forms the healthiest seeds, which are used for further propagation.

Pepper fruit from a crown bud on the fork of first order branches. © Roberto A Sanchez

Formation of a sweet pepper bush in a greenhouse

When transferred to a greenhouse, the pepper is planted so that it remains possible to increase the volume of the bush by 2-3 branches. The planting scheme for varieties and hybrids with high bushiness can be 40-50x70-80, i.e. 2-5 or 3-6 pieces per sq. m. If the bushiness is average, then per sq. m planted from 6 to 8 pepper bushes.

The formation of a pepper bush involves pinching, removing excess barren shoots and pruning. After planting and establishment, the bushes are inspected to ensure they are healthy and pest-free. Barren lower shoots and leaves located on the trunk up to the first fork are removed, providing the bushes with normal ventilation and lighting.

The pepper branches formed after branching are called lateral branches. These are branches of the first order, or skeletal. Each side branch first grows from a central stem that has leaves. At the base of the petioles of these leaves (in the axil) shoots appear. These are stepchildren. They are removed by pinching.

Scheme of the method for forming a pepper bush into two stems. © Natalya

The central branch of the first order pepper also branches into 2 shoots. These are second order shoots. The stronger one is left. It is considered skeletal and must have the strength to support the remaining shoots located above. Leaves, buds or flowers/fruits are left on it. The second shoot of the second order of pepper is usually weaker. It is pinched off, leaving the fruit and leaf.

The skeletal shoot of the 2nd order, in turn, is divided into 2 branches. These are 3rd order branches. They do the same with them. The main, or skeletal, is distinguished. He is growing and developing normally. In the axils of its leaves, the stepsons are removed. Inspect and remove yellowed pepper leaves from the trunk and skeletal branches. The second shoot (weaker) of the third order is pinched above the first flower bud. Be sure to leave a leaf that will provide nutrition to the ovary.

The same process is done on the first-order skeletal shoot of the second branch (remember, the first fork). This is the formation of a bush with 2 stems. If you leave not one, but 2 lateral shoots on a pepper trunk, then there will be not 2, but 4 skeletal branches of the first order. One is removed. 3 stems remain. Form according to the above scheme.

If the pepper is planned to be formed using the stem method, it is necessary to install a trellis in advance so that each order of branches is attached to a transverse fastening. The mass of growing fruit can break fragile branches. When inspecting a pepper bush, do not forget to remove shoots without flowers (fatty, sterile). Do not hesitate to pinch one of the shoots at the fork and tear off the old yellow (not working) leaves.

On each skeletal stem of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and other orders below the branching, leaves and additional shoots appear over time (the stems do not remain bare, they are overgrown with leaves and shoots). They must be removed, but gradually. No more than 2 leaves per day. Moreover, first of all, the leaves that shade the pepper ovaries are removed.

This operation is repeated until the bushes reach their height ceiling of 1.0-1.2 m. The top is trimmed to stop growing in height and redirect nutrients to the underlying ovaries and fruits. 1.5 months before the end of the pepper harvest, the tops of skeletal branches of all orders are cut off to stop growth and redirect nutrients to young fruits.

Usually, 20-25 large, thick-walled fruits are left on formed pepper bushes. By autumn, unformed, overgrown bushes will be full of small ovaries and fruits. In this case, the full yield of pepper will be lower and practically, especially of mid-season varieties, without fruits in their biological ripeness.

A pepper bush formed into two stems. © harry

Formation of a sweet pepper bush in open ground

When growing peppers in open ground, only tall varieties and hybrids can be formed. In medium-sized plants, sterile fattening shoots, lower shoots and stepsons must be removed to provide the bush with normal lighting and ventilation. Low-growing varieties of pepper do not need shaping. Crooked, broken shoots that grow inwards must be removed. On medium- and low-growing pepper bushes, pinching of the central shoots is carried out to enhance lateral branching. The total number of fruitful shoots of pepper does not exceed 4-6, and the number of fruits, depending on the variety, is 15-25.

Tall plants when grown in open ground must be loaded with side shoots. To force the plant to bush, pinch the top of the main stems at a level of 25-30 cm from the soil level and remove the crown buds. The basis of the pepper bush will be 4-5 skeletal shoots of the first order. The rest are deleted.

The rest of the formation process involves pinching off excess shoots. Leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots formed from the fork of the shoot. At each next branch of the bush, approximately the same number of shoots is left, the rest are removed. It turns out to be a lush bush. When a sufficient number of fruits are formed on the pepper bush, the skeletal branches are pinched or the tops are cut off. Pepper fruits left on the bush will rapidly gain mass, and new ones will stop setting. The energy of growth processes will switch to the ripening of already formed fruits. During this period, new leaves and shoots will continue to grow.

Pinching and removing pepper leaves will provide comfortable conditions for the crop. During the entire growing season of sweet peppers, weather conditions must be taken into account. If the summer is dry, then it is better not to remove the lower leaves. They will cover the soil from excessive heating. In damp and rainy summers, on the contrary, the lower part of the bush needs to be exposed (mainly at the level of the trunk) so that excess moisture does not stagnate, causing fungal and bacterial diseases.

Thus, the formation of peppers, timely removal, pinching and pruning will help to obtain a higher and higher quality harvest of your favorite peppers.

Good afternoon, I planted vegetables in a greenhouse for the first time. I would like to know what care is needed for peppers in a greenhouse; Is bush formation a necessary procedure when growing a crop?

To get an early harvest of vegetables indoors, basic maintenance procedures must be followed. Caring for peppers in a greenhouse, forming a bush, feeding with fertilizers, watering, etc. will help increase yield in conditions where the plant growing cycle is shortened.

In greenhouses that are not equipped with additional lighting and heating, it is impossible to create a microclimate that would be similar to the nature of South America. This part of the world is the birthplace of bell pepper. It is possible to prevent an undesirable event, that is, not to be left without the expected harvest. To do this, you need to follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.

The main indicators that affect the growth of heat-loving pepper include: temperature, watering, fertilizing and timely loosening of the soil. It is necessary to water the pepper every other day; each adult planting requires 1.5-2 liters of warm water. The cultivated vegetable is fed with fertilizers such as nitrogen, calcium, potassium and phosphorus. In addition, cow dung and herbal infusion will be a good help for feeding the crop.

Excess shoots on pepper bushes are pinched and removed more often in tall plants; medium-sized varieties are removed only from barren flowers and lower shoots. Dwarf plantings should not be formed, because they bear fruit well without this procedure.

The formation of a bush is the most important agrotechnical technique when growing pepper, since obtaining a large harvest depends on it.

The formation of plants into 2, 3 or 4 stems depends on the planting pattern and the duration of the growing cycle.

Pepper is a bush plant. Shaping helps to increase the size of the fruit and speed up its ripening. This is especially important for tall varieties.

The need for formation

The amount of harvest will depend on the quality of the formation of pepper bushes.

Pepper is one of the most popular crops grown in a greenhouse. The formation of a bush can be carried out in several ways, it all depends on the type of pepper. If it is grown in an unheated greenhouse or in open ground, then the bushes grow up to 60 cm high; in a heated greenhouse they will be larger.

When the seedlings reach a height of 15 centimeters, it is necessary to remove the apical growth points. This will help strengthen branching and shape the bush.

It is formed into two, three or four stems. This will depend on how the peppers were planted in the greenhouse, as well as on the growing period. You should not allow too much density in the garden bed. This can cause diseases, and will also reduce yields and deteriorate the quality of the fruit. To regulate the ground mass of plants, pruning is done. Prepared in this way, they begin to bear fruit much earlier and produce a larger harvest.

It is necessary to take into account that shaping is only permissible on healthy plants. If the vegetables in the greenhouse are affected by any disease, no work can be done with them.

PHARMACY IN THE GROUND Why go to the pharmacy for medicines when nature itself creates medicines for humans all around. Pharmacy gardens and beds have been known in Rus' since the time of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Revive this useful ancient tradition along with a new series of varieties and hybrids of healing spicy and aromatic herbs - “Pharmacy in the Garden”. In your garden, right at your fingertips, they will grow and bloom, conveying to you their love of life and resilience - valerian officinalis, fragrant mint, aromatic cumin, creeping thyme, chamomile, purple coneflower, etc. And make a similar apothecary bed right in your garden extremely interesting. Most of the herbs collected in the series are very unpretentious and take up very little space, attracting a lot of beneficial insects and driving away pests. “Pharmacy in the garden” is great pleasure, positive emotions, plus enormous benefits for your health! High yield of fragrant greens! Vegetable anise Blues" Mid-season variety. The period from full germination to cutting for greens is 60-65 days, until the seeds ripen - 110 days. The plant is 30-50 cm high, weighs about 50 g. The rosette of leaves is vertical, the number of leaves is up to 20 pieces. Leaf long-petiolate, medium size, round-heart-shaped, medium-dissected, serrated edge, light green. Greens are used in cooking, in canning. Seeds are added to confectionery products. Value of the variety: high foliage and uniformity, resistance to lodging and seed shedding. Borago (Borage ) Gnome Greens with the aroma of fresh cucumber Annual herbaceous plant. The period from full germination to harvesting for greens is 25-30 days. Plant up to 30-60 cm high. The leaf is large, oval in shape, in adult plants it is hairy and pubescent. The flower is blue. Mass of one plants 200 g. Young cucumber grass is used as a salad plant. Its leaves with a strong smell of fresh cucumber have a pleasant taste. Value of the variety: early ripening and high yield. In medicine it is used as a diuretic, laxative, anti-inflammatory agent, for rheumatic pain and inflammation of the kidneys. Infusions of flowers and leaves are used as a soothing and refreshing remedy. Valerian officinalis Cardiola Useful medicinal properties Perennial herbaceous plant. The stem is hollow, up to 150 cm high. The root system is powerful and is located in the surface layer of soil. The flowers are white or pale pink, small, fragrant, collected in thyroid panicles. Blooms from June to August (in the second year). Value of the variety: high yield of medicinal raw materials. The rhizome with roots is used for medicinal purposes. In folk medicine, infusions, decoctions, and extracts are used as a sedative for diseases of the cardiovascular system, migraines, bronchial asthma, etc. St. John's wort Optimist" Early flowering already in the first year of sowing. Perennial plant. Growing season 110-130 days, from regrowth to full flowering - 80-85 days. Plants are semi-closed, 80-85 cm high. The stem is strong, green. The number of inflorescences on one plant is 6-8. Flowering duration is 41-51 days. Flowering plants in the first year of life - 100%. The flower is large . 135 days before seed ripening. Plant up to 70 cm high. Rosette of leaves raised, closed. Medium-sized leaf, dark green, without anthocyanin. The number of shoots is up to 10 pieces. The inflorescence is loose, oblong, false whorl. The flower is large, pale purple. Weight of one plant is 240 g. Biological characteristics: It is undemanding to soils, but produces high yields on fairly fertile chernozem, sandy loam and light loamy, moderately moist soils. Prefers fully illuminated areas; in shaded areas, the yield of green mass, seeds and essential oil content are reduced; Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases: Resistant to adverse travel conditions and diseases. Agrotechnical features: Time for sowing seeds in open ground: at the end of May, sowing depth 2-3 cm, sowing pattern in rows with row spacing of 60-70 cm, 25-30 cm between plants in a row. Flowering duration: From mid-July to early September. Quality characteristics: Has a pleasant tart, fragrant, peppery aroma. Use: Leaves and flowers, fresh and dried, are used as a spice to flavor salads, first and second courses, tea, and when canning vegetables. In folk medicine, infusions and decoctions of the herb are used to stimulate appetite, for colds, neuralgia, gastritis, hepatitis, stomatitis, nephritis, etc. Hyssop officinalis "Accord" is drought-resistant, winters well, has a strong aroma. Perennial plant, leafy, up to 80 cm high. The stem is shortened and woody. The rosette of leaves is raised. The number of shoots is up to 25 pieces. The flower is pink, small. Weight of one plant is 840 g. It has a refreshing aroma. Flowering shoots, fresh and dried, are used as a seasoning in cooking. Used for diseases of the upper respiratory tract, gastrointestinal tract, rheumatism. For medicinal purposes, flowers and upper herbaceous parts are harvested during flowering. A good honey plant. The variety is drought-resistant and winters well. Chervil Openwork Spicy seasoning for various dishes. Early ripening variety. The period from full germination to harvesting greens is 38-45 days, to flowering - 75 days. The rosette of leaves is raised, 25 cm high, 30 cm in diameter, compact. Medium sized leaf, light green. The flower is small, white. The aroma is good. In cooking, fresh leaves are used before flowering as a seasoning for meat and fish dishes, for preparing salads, for canning and pickling. In medicine it is used as a tonic and restorative. Catnip Basilio Delicate, persistent lemon aroma. Perennial. The period from full germination to the beginning of economic suitability is 62-65 days. The plant is erect, up to 120 cm high. The stem is tetrahedral, pubescent, highly branched. The leaf is petiolate, medium size, triangular-ovate, green with pubescence, the edge is coarsely serrated. The flowers are small, white, collected in paniculate-spike-shaped inflorescences. Weight of one plant is 95 g. It blooms in June-August. It has a lemon smell and a spicy-bitter taste. The above-ground part, harvested in June-August, is used for medicinal purposes. The infusion is used to improve appetite, for anemia, biliary and gastrointestinal colic, restless sleep, etc. Externally - in the form of a compress for boils and abscesses. Lavender Uslada An ideal combination of decorativeness and benefits. A perennial semi-shrub plant. The period from sowing to the beginning of flowering is 150 days. The plants are compact with numerous branched shoots up to 55 cm long, woody at the base. The foliage is average. The leaf is grayish-green, lanceolate. The flowers are blue-violet in color and collected in spike-shaped inflorescences, 5-8 cm long. The aroma is strong and specific. Fresh herbs are used as a seasoning. In folk medicine, flowers are used as a sedative and choleretic agent. Alcohol tinctures are used for rheumatic pain and neuralgia. Lovage Udalets" An unpretentious perennial plant with a strong, persistent aroma. A perennial spicy-flavoring and medicinal plant. The period from regrowth to cutting is 25-30 days, to flowering - 85 days. The plant is compact, the hollow stem is up to 1 m high. The rosette of leaves is raised, up to 75 cm in diameter, the number of leaves reaches 40 pieces. The leaf is large, shiny, yellow-green, highly dissected. The flowers are small, yellowish, collected in an inflorescence - an umbrella. The aroma of the variety is high. Garden marjoram Baikal" Pleasant strong aroma and sharp spicy taste. A perennial subshrub, in the middle zone it is grown as an annual plant. The growing season is 170-180 days, from germination to harvesting for drying it takes 125-135 days. The plant is erect, 50-60 cm high . Leaves are small, green, smooth. Flowers are small, white. Weight of one plant is 35 g. Strong aromaticity. Leaves and young shoots with leaves and inflorescences are used fresh and dried in cooking and in canning vegetables. In folk medicine, decoctions and infusions are used for diseases of the respiratory and digestive organs, as a wound-healing, tonic. Melissa officinalis Quadrille" High winter hardiness, heat resistance and disease resistance. A perennial plant up to 80 cm high. The period from full germination to cutting (in the second year of growing season) is 75-80 days. The rosette of leaves is raised, semi-closed, the number of shoots is up to 15. The leaf is medium-sized, dark green. The flower is small, light lilac. The weight of one plant is 250 g. The plants have a pleasant lemon smell and a bitter-spicy taste. Value of the variety: unpretentiousness, resistance to unfavorable conditions, high yield of green mass. Used in cooking to flavor tea, added when salting vegetables. In folk medicine, the infusion is used as a sedative for insomnia, neuralgia, asthma, anemia, as a diaphoretic and laxative. Plantain lanceolate Physician Plant description: Perennial herbaceous plant up to 50 cm high. The leaves are lanceolate, collected in a rosette of basal leaves. The flowers are small, collected in oblong-ovate spikes. Biological characteristics: Prefers fairly moist, fertile soils. Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases: Frost-resistant. Winters well. Agrotechnical features: When sowing seedlings in February-April, the seeds ripen in June. Flowering duration: Blooms in May-August. Quality characteristics: Sourish taste. The leaves contain the glycoside aucubin and 8% water containing up to 38% potassium and tannins; enzymes invertin and emulsin; saponins, organic acids, vitamins C and K, carotene, as well as citric acid, etc. Use: Young leaves are used to prepare salads, as an additive to cereals, purees and drinks. In folk medicine, decoctions and infusions of roots and leaves are used. The plant has blood purifying, anti-inflammatory, antitussive, diuretic, antispasmodic, expectorant and enveloping properties. Plantain is able to stop bleeding, accelerate epithelization and wound healing. Motherwort Samara cordial Huge benefits for your health. Perennial medicinal herb. Stems are 50-150 cm high. Leaves are dark green. The flowers are small, light pink, collected in false whorls in the axils of the upper leaves. Blooms in June-July. For medicinal purposes, leafy flowering tops 30-40 cm long are used. Infusion and decoction are used as a sedative, cordial, laxative, diaphoretic, wound healing agent, etc. Milk thistle Debut Description of the plant: Widely known as a medicinal plant. An annual prickly plant up to 1.5 m high. The leaves are leathery, with large white spots, the upper edges are jagged with yellow spines. The fruit is a black-yellow, shiny achene. Biological characteristics: Milk thistle is demanding that fields be kept free of weeds. It is unacceptable to sow it in fields littered with perennial root shoot weeds. Sandy loam soils with a loose and breathable soil layer are suitable for its cultivation; slightly acidic soils with a pH of 5.5-6.0 are preferred. The best predecessors of milk thistle are pure pairs or winter ones, going in pairs, perennial and annual herbs. Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases: The variety does not lodge or fall off. It is not affected by pests and diseases. Agrotechnical features: Sowing May 1-20, sowing pattern 70x70 cm, harvesting August 20-September 20. Duration of flowering: Seeds are collected in late August - early September, roots are dug in the fall. Flowering duration is 30 days. Uses: Roots, leaves and buds are consumed as a vegetable, using young leaves and petioles for salads. Seeds and roots are used for medicinal purposes. Tinctures and decoctions are used for diseases of the liver, gall bladder, articular rheumatism, chronic bronchitis, etc. Chamomile Aibolit is an unpretentious medicinal and ornamental plant. A most valuable medicinal plant, up to 40 cm high. Stems are straight, branched. Inflorescences are baskets sitting on long peduncles. Blooms from June to August. Grows everywhere in any soil. Flower baskets are used for medicinal purposes. Inflorescences are harvested at the beginning of flowering (up to 6 times per summer). Pre-winter crops give the highest yield. Vegetable thyme Medok Perennial plant. The growing season from full germination to the last harvest is 150 days. A plant with creeping flowering shoots, up to 25 cm high. The foliage is high. The leaves are small, oblong-ovate, dark green above, grayish-purple below. The flowers are light pink, small, collected at the end of the branches in capitate inflorescences. The yield of green mass per plant is 50 g. It has a pleasant aroma and slightly bitter taste. The variety is light-loving, drought- and frost-resistant. In cooking, it is used as a seasoning, as a spice when canning vegetables, and added to tea. It is also used as a medicinal plant. Vegetable cumin Appetizing Mid-season variety. The period from the beginning of leaf regrowth to harvesting for greens in the second year of the growing season is 35 days, until harvesting for seeds is 65 days. Biennial plant 60-80 cm high. The rosette of leaves is raised, semi-closed. The leaf is medium petiolate, medium size, yellow-green, without anthocyanin, medium dissection. The leaves have a spicy taste and weak aroma. The flowers are small and white. Fresh leaves are added to salads and meat dishes. The seeds are used as a spice and in folk medicine as a medicine. Yarrow Vasyurinsky Power of nature for your health. Perennial. The growing season is 120-128 days. The shoots are green. The plant is erect, 69 cm high in the first year of life, 116-139 cm in subsequent years. The stem is pubescent. The leaves are dark green, pubescent, corrugated. The flower is white. It blooms in June - September, the fruits ripen in July - October. Value of the variety: high winter hardiness and drought resistance. Has anti-inflammatory and bactericidal effects. Used in the form of infusions, decoctions, extracts for various diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, peptic ulcers and gastritis, the infusion acts as a hemostatic, used for headaches, night cramps in the legs, anemia, in the form of compresses for abscesses, festering wounds. Garden savory Picnic Strong spicy aroma and piquant taste. Early ripening variety. The period from full germination to the beginning of flowering is 55-58 days. The plant is 40-45 cm high, intermediate in shape, branched, well leafy. Weight of 1 plant is 70 g. The leaf is lanceolate, narrow, pointed, green. The flowers are small and white. The aroma of the variety is strong. Recommended for use in home cooking (salads, soups, meat, vegetable dishes), for flavoring vinegars and marinades, and for canning cucumbers. Vegetable sage Breeze "Irreplaceable benefits for the body. Perennial subshrub. The plant is erect, up to 60 cm tall, densely foliated. The leaves are elongated with a blunt apex, pubescent, finely toothed along the edges. The flowers are blue-violet, collected in loose spike-shaped inflorescences. High aromaticity. Blooms in June-July. The weight of one plant in the second year of vegetation is 250-280 g. It grows in one place for up to 5 years. Fresh and dry leaves are used as a seasoning in cooking, in the preparation of canned food, sausages, cheeses and wine. In folk medicine it is used for bronchitis, colitis, gastritis, liver disease, kidney disease, etc. Vegetable sage Nectar Plant description: Perennial herbaceous plant up to 100 cm high. Leaves are oval-heart-shaped, pubescent, light green. Flowers are blue-violet. Inflorescences are paniculate-branched up to 40 cm long. Blooms in June-July. Excellent honey plant. Biological characteristics: The plant is light-loving, drought-resistant, prefers fertile soils. Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases: Drought-resistant. Agrotechnical characteristics: The best sowing time is before winter. At an air temperature of +10-12 °C, seedlings appear on days 12-14 (they easily tolerate frosts down to – 6-8 °C). Sowing May 1-15, sowing pattern 45 x 20 cm, harvesting June 20-August 30. Productivity: 0.5 kg/m2.Qualitative characteristics: Unique aroma. Use: Recommended for use in fresh and dried form (leaves and inflorescences), for flavoring various dishes, flavoring tea, cheeses. In folk medicine, the infusion is used for fever, to improve digestion, and for stomach ulcers. A decoction of the leaves as a gargle for acute respiratory diseases, laryngitis, and sore throat. Endive Spring Plant description: Early ripening. For cultivation in film greenhouses and open ground. The rosette of leaves is semi-erect, dense, 30 cm high, 30-40 cm in diameter. The leaves are light green, dissected, the core is elliptical, light yellowish-green. The weight of the commercial plant is up to 500g. Biological features: The plant is cold-resistant, tolerates frosts down to -3 ° C. However, low temperatures during early sowing or planting seedlings in the ground can cause premature bolting. Endive is also sometimes damaged by autumn frosts. The plant is moisture-loving and demanding of soil fertility. It does not grow on acidic soils. Resistance to environmental conditions and diseases: Cold-resistant. Agrotechnical features: Sowing May 20-June 10, sowing pattern 20-30 x 20-30 cm, harvesting July 25-August 25. Productivity: 4 kg/m2. Qualitative characteristics: A plant with a high content of vitamin C. Use: Recommended for using the leaves fresh and in cooking. Tarragon Monarch "Irreplaceable benefits in every leaf. Perennial semi-shrub plant. The plant is erect, up to 150 cm high, highly branched and heavily leafy. The number of first order branches is up to 15 pieces. Young shoots are light green, up to 10-20 cm long. The leaf is sessile, large , up to 8 cm long, bright green, smooth, with dense short pubescence. Weight of 1 plant is 700 g. The smell is spicy, the taste is refreshing and pungent. Fresh greens are used as salad and spicy seasoning in cooking, for canning and pickling, and to prepare tonic drinks It is used in folk medicine as a strong antiscorbutic and diuretic, for vitamin deficiencies, to stimulate appetite and improve digestion.