Large floor decorative vases for the interior are a stylish decoration element. Agree, the handicraft from wooden circles looks spectacular?

We will create it with your own hands with the help of small spikes of the tree - round in cross section. We will not need entire trunks, only branches from about one to three centimeters in diameter, as well as the basis for which we will clipped small wooden parts.

Materials for a vase from wood do it yourself

As I mentioned, we need a weigh branch branches, quite a lot, depending on the size of the vase, or rather, more from its surface area.

You still need something that would serve as the basis of our craft. They can have anything, even a simple cans, as you see in the photo below, or a flower pot.

It would be better for the tin surface to be so visible, so it is possible to first reorganize it, for example, with a twine or sack paper. Despite the fact that this work is completed too rudely, the flowers in it look pretty cute.

If you have a vase with a defect, for example, with a crack, or broken - not trouble, it can be useful for us. Breated we first shake. Surfaces and cracks on it will still not be visible - we reorganize it with a tree.

The simplest thing is to find the finished reason for our interior vase, but in principle there is another way to make it yourself. It could be a papier-mache vase, you can utilize a lot of unnecessary newspapers. Then the product will be very easy and better will make it another form, more stable.

Or make it from clay, and insert an ordinary glass jar or a bottle insert, so that the vase can be used not only as a decorative object of the interior, as well as in direct purpose - to put flowers or twigs into it.

Spila is better to carefully clean it with the front side that will be visible for us. Zzabrin and special irregularities should not be, we do not want to scatter. To remove the bark or not - this is your personal business as who likes or what effect you want to achieve.

Still cook good glue, we will stick these small rounds.

Decorative Vase - Production

The tree can be treated with a verse or leave as it is, this is a matter of taste and personal preferences. It would be nice to consider where the decorative vase will be, in which interior. Under the light furniture, sleep is better to leave as it is, do not paint.

If the tones of the furniture are dark, then you can part of the wooden parts or everything is immediately processed to give them a darker shade.

The color is left natural, natural, well visible texture of a tree - circles. I almost forgotten - the sleeves should be all the same thickness so that in the end the vase has a flat surface.

Now proceed to work, actually creating your designer work - decorative outdoor vase From wood. We select in size and glue a speech so that the closed turned out to be as much part of the foundation.

Between big glue small pieces like a mosaic. You can start with anywhere, as you like more. But it is better, I think, start with the most flat (least convex) part.

When everything is glued, you need to give a product well to dry. From above, a decorative wooden surface, if desired, can be covered with varnish.

This is how the outdoor decorative vase looks like in the interior. It is made of natural natural material, gives the room warmth, creates a style. It will look good for various beautiful twigs collected in the forest, or stems of dry plants.

If inside is a tank of a type of can or a bottle that does not pass water, then our vase can undoubtedly be used for fresh bouquets.

According to a similar principle, vases are made more than simple forms In the photo below. Wooden kreagashi can first treat the veil to give color. Or leave as it is.

An interesting pattern on the texture is created by alternating circles of different diameters. Some bodies of the tree have their own unique pattern on the cut, it adds originality.

Products from natural natural materialsIn particular, wood has become recent extraordinary popularity. You can browse some ideas on sale, and then repeat yourself for the interior of your own home.

It may be not only vases, but also other small decor items, even whole walls, furniture.

You may be interested:

Examples of interior decoration, when natural natural materials are also used. This time the decor is made with the help of slaughter cuts of plants growing near the water, in shallow water. This is all famous reeds, Rogoz, as well as other types of swamp vegetation, Air, Sitnik. The same way can make decorative animal figures.

Another example of creating a vase from natural materials - branches, corping, as well as a small glass container. Very cute and at the same time uncomplicated in the manufacture of wooden crafts for the interior. You can not process the wand at all, you only need to drill several holes in it for the vessel with water and fastening the cords.

Very unusual unique vases can be made on a lathe (who can, of course). I liked it very, I could not pass by, so such a post arose. It can be used both in direct intended, and in decorative purposes to create a unique interior. The more interesting the structure and drawing of wood, the more flaws, irregularities, the better!

We decorate the vase in the technique of a glass mosaic. The base is glass, surface cladding too. In almost any irrelevant form, it will not be suitable for all that is too small, such as a flask for the suspension vase. Inside the article, there is another unusual method of interior decoration - the creation of a decorative inner surface of a wide bowl of wood due to moseline mosaic tiles.

Wooden vases fit perfectly into any interior, and external species They are able to give a wraul design and serve him with an emphasis. To decorate in this way housing, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on their acquisition.

Wood vase do it yourself

In order to make such a vase with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Preparation of workplace

As usual, the first thing you need to equip your workplacewhere you will work. The rules are not complicated: on the table there should be no extra things, the entire tool must lie in their places and be at hand. Not everyone has its desktop and surely you have already thought about creating it. Make the table is not difficult - it is harder to choose a place in the house for it. A good option - This is a warmed balcony where you can start working on a cradle at any time. If you have a specially equipped room with a workbench, then you can say lucky. In a separate article, you can read about where I tried as you can describe the entire process of its creation. After the workplace creation process has completed, you can proceed directly to your future handicraft.

Choosing plywood

The main elements will fit on the Fannery of A4 format, as some details are required to do in several copies, then you will need several blanks. The plywood thickness should be from 2.5 to 3 mm, and depending on the thickness, it is necessary to drink on an internal or outer contour, it is relevant for the grooves in which the elements of the craft are inserted. Before translating the drawing to the Faneru, pollute the workpiece with a large grain, and then small. Wrap the wooden lump by sandpaper, and then proceed to grinding. Grind the harvested Phaneur along the layers, and not across. A well ground surface should be smooth, completely smooth, glossy-matte on light and silky to the touch. Pay attention to the location of the fibers, swirls, dents and other vices. Quality and color. If the plywood is not very high quality and is stratified when drinking, read the Recommendance Recommendations.

Figure Pattern

You need to translate the drawing accurately and carefully: the drawing will fasten with the help of the buttons, two-way painting tape or simply hold the left hand. Check if the drawing is suitable for dimensions. Separate parts place so that the plywood sheet is more economical. It is not worth a hurry, because your future handicraft depends on the drawing. If the time is not enough, then to speed up the translation process, you can use the technique of quickly translating the drawing, for this I suggest familiar with the article in the Tips section :.

Dumping Vase from Plywood Lobzik

Rules for drinking a lot, but need to be based on the most common. First, you should cut the internal elements then start the discharge of the circuit. When drinking is no need to hurry. The main thing, when drinking, keep always right at an angle of 90 degrees. Put the details on exactly the lines. Lobzik movements should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to follow your posture. Try not to allow SKOs and irregularities. If when drinking you left the line, you should not worry. Such squeezes, irregularities in the subsequent can be removed using a flat file or "coarser-grained" skins.

Relaxation

When drinking, fatigue occurs. Often tired fingers of hands as well as eyes that are always in tension. When working, of course, everyone gets tired, but in order to reduce the load, make a pair of exercises. You can watch exercises. Take several times during the work.

Build Vase from plywood

Assembling details of the vase in this work is simple. When assembling, look at the drawing. If some details are not included in the necessary details - sign them. When the craft is going without any problems - glue it. Bloom the dish is needed with the help of "PVA" or "TITAN". You do not need a lot of glue.

Laccination crafts

At the request of the dish, it is possible to cover with a marilka under valuable wood species or simply transparent, it is not necessary to do this, but it will give a large personality to your craft. Try to choose good and high-quality varnish. Produce using a special brush, do not hurry. Try not to leave visible divorces of bubbles and vile from the brush.

Second important condition The safe work of the finely-shaped chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e. to a smaller diameter. The sharpening of this tool is usually performed at 30 °. This operation is very convenient to conduct

with the help of a special device that I did for sharpening deep-shaped chisels, slightly changing its setting. The chamfer is perfectly smooth without faces. This device will be described later in another article, and now it should be clarified that instead of the small-minded chisel to form a vase profile, it is possible to apply a deep-shaped with a less-burnt character that I often do.

In the photo 6, the finishing bag of the sharpened outer surface of the vase with the pills of the fine-tempered chisel, which is conducted under 45 ° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can be performed with the help of a jammy chisel, as presented in photo 7. True, it is distinguished by a very angry character and even represents danger, since when a burrow can fly out of the hands and damage to the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing to pull almost everything, but only with the equity arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., with the cross-sharp turning, the co-ssychki chisel is absolutely not applicable. By the way, her blade is sharpening at 25 ° necessarily on the platform of the girlfriend.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and aligning it with the surface, as well as applying small ornamental brownies and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel (photo #) I spend the wet grinding of the product with the sandpaper R220 grainy. For which dipping "skin" into a plate with water, and spraying the surface. This grinding is preliminary. And in the future, after drying, the product will require final finishing. Next, I cut off the thin cutting chisel the support protrusion on the Diax Vase (photo 9) and squeeze the bottom in the cartridge with the back of the product with the backstone (photo 10) for the dense fit of the front plane of the sponges to the bottom of the vase. The next step will be the drilling of a deep hole in the throat of the vase, but since it has a big length, then for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in Luntney (photo 11), the use of which has-practical practices for the sharpening VAZ.

Lunets for small lathes are not sold, they have to make themselves. My three-wheeled lunet (such devices are still two- and four-wheeled) made of plywood with a thickness of 40 mm. The diameter of the opening for the workpiece is 220 mm, and the wheels for roller skates with precision bearings provide relative silent operation. Only installed Lunet, as I needed to interrupt the job: I had to take a roll of the food film and wrap it with a vase (photo 12), otherwise the product from damp wood of an apple tree (extremely "trressing" of the breed) would definitely cracked during my absence. I, by this film, also wrapping semi-prepared bowls from weak, strongly fired wood to prevent them from spooling into pieces with a boring of the inner cavity. The vase conceived by me should have become universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and living flowers. In the latter case, water should be pouring into any suitable small vessel, for example, a glass tube with a length of 200 mm and a diameter of 20 mm, placed inside the vase (photo 13).

I did not find a suitable long drill (type of Spiral Levis or first with grooves for shavings removal) to do the hole in the throat of the vase. I had to plant a simple flat "pepper" with a width of 22 mm from a set of production of still Soviet times on a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drilling cam patron with a cone Morse (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow to insert the cartridge in the Pi-zero of the back of the grandmother, and the thickness of the rod created tool did not give the opportunity to fasten it in a 10-mm cartridge of the usual drill (9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of the rotating vase, it was necessary to hold the cartridge in his hand with great strengtheps, laying the rod to the girlfriend. Photo 15 and 16 show the initial and final stage of this process. By the way, for the convenience of further use, the test tube inserted into the throat of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the finishing stage of the Donette, i.e. eliminating the dents from the cam and alignment of the end, it was necessary to deploy an almost ready-made vase on the machine. Previously, I pulled out the supporting tablet with a deepening under the diameter of the neck (photo 17). Placed her back and behind the bottom of the Donette center, which inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When later I pulled out other vases of approximately the same form, then simply carefully pushed the neck in the cartridge using small fists of type F, laying a strip of plastic with a thickness of more than 1 mm. A segment of a coaxial (antenna) cable will also be consolidated as a softening gasket.

In photo 18 shows the search for the center on the Donets when it for some reason was not scheduled or disappeared. The black felt-tip pen marks the beating, then it is necessary, tapping on the Xiankaya celebration, to shift the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After that, the formation of the Donets is carried out using a deep-shaped either small-minded chisel (photo 19)

Upon completion of the sharpening, the vase must be dried without cracking. In the air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by a large thickness of the vase at the bottom (the thinner of the wall of the product, the higher the chance to avoid cracks, as well as some warns). I dry my products from raw wood with one of two ways: either I lay in a paper craft package, filled with wet chips of the same tree (photo 20), or filling the product itself, which then wrapping in two layers of the newspaper and put on the shelf in Saraj. The latter method is particularly convenient and effective for cups and plates with walls with a thickness of 4-8 mm, which without cracks and steaming dried in summer in summer.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the lower thicker part of the vase from the apple tree could not be avoided even after a two-month drying in the kraft package, and the circumstances did not dry longer. It was necessary to close the cracks by inciting the thin plates of the same material heated on the belt saw and then processed using grinding machine RGOHOP with a carbide disk and electric black & decker electron. Plots turned out to be almost invisible, but this additional work made me reconsider the method of sharpening VAZ in order to make their lower parts with hollow to reduce the probability of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I was bred by doubts about the legitimacy of a simplified approach, limited by the simple drilling of the narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to reassuate the cavity in the lower part of the VAZ, but at the same time there were always various difficulties. True, I rarely did Vaza. In the summer, I made a series of vases close form, and it was necessary to solve the problem drastically. From the very beginning at both ends of the cylindrical billet, it is pulled out on the performance. Having formed the external profile of the lower part of the vase, it is necessary to immediately begin the boring of its cavity with the use of Lune, holding the workpiece in the cartridge behind the ledge on the place of the neck. With the help of deep or small-rough chisels, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is reset. Those who can further enter some of the curved chisels - a hinge, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by a kroncyrkul.

Upon completion of the process of the boring, it is necessary to add separately from the same wood material The plug of the suitable diameter and glue it into the opening of the protrusion (dons). Here it is necessary to estimate the depth of the protrusion of the cap inside the cavity so that the test tube, which in the future it will rely on it, went out on the aforementioned 5 mm. If the test tube fails in the neck, an additional fruit will arise with a piece of wood on the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

That part of the inclised plug, which protrudes outside, I cut off on a ribbon saw. Next, the Donace will be finally processed by the method described above.

If the vase has a different form with a significantly wider neck, then

the tag as a vessel with water is not suitable here. What to do? The decision came pretty quickly when I took a half-jammed birch suwel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and pulled out a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm from it. Further in its stocks, I found a two-meter plastic tube of a bright green color with a diameter of 32 mm and cut off from it on a ribbon saw a piece of about 160 mm long, deciding to turn it into the desired vessel. First, with the help of gas microgorelka, I was convinced that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e. it will not be able to cook from it. I had to turn to gluing, to start scolding from the source tube, another small piece and making an additional dual dolk on it. With the help of an industrial hair dryer, I gotten a segment to a soft condition. Deployed into the plane, put under the press, and after cooling the aligned piece of plastic plastic, the circle struck the circuit on it, which will play the role of the bottom in the vessel from the tube. Next I am quite right, albeit on the eye, led him

the size in accordance with the internal diameter of the tube (28 mm) using the Black & Decker electronage (photo 22). I drove the circle into a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and flooded outside the thick layer of a fairly universal waterproof superclone "Master" based on copolymers of vinyl acetate, which I have been kept for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed to me with vulgar, and I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. The subsequent exposure with water for a month has shown the tightness of the made vessel, and the total aesthetic properties of an accurate vase with a lively branch of the golden river can be estimated in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to see that most diverse plastic are sold in stores. water pipesFrom which you can easily make any vessels for living colors and put inside of the accurate wooden vases. In photo 25, a number of such products created by me were shown in summer from various wood breeds by the method described above.

Wooden vase with their own hands - Photo

Photo 1. Cross sawmill on goats. Photo 2. Sharpening of the rimproy chisel on the electric coil. Photo 3. Chernovaya processing of the workpiece by a rimpted chisel. Photo 4. Forming the protrusion at the end of the cylinder under the cartridge with the help of a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Formation of the outdoor profile of the vase with the help of a fine-tempered chisel. Photo 6. Cleaning the surface of the fine-skinned chisel's surface. Photo 7. Pure surface treatment with a jamb. Photo 8. Application of decorative colors and grooves of the fine-shaped chisel. Photo 9. Cutting the support protrusion by a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10. Clamp of a vase form in a cartridge with a backstop of the backstone. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in homemade lunet. Photo 12. Sealing vase with food film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade pepper
Photo 15. Start drilling a deaf hole under a glass tube.

Photo 16. Cork in the holes of the vase. Photo 17. Cutting the supporting tablet with a hole under the throat of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and the center search on the Donets. Photo 19. DOAGEMINE OF THE INTERNALLOGE-OBLASHED ENTERNAL.

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How to make a vase from the tree. Vases made of wood are usually round and made from the monolithic workpiece, while turning processing processing 75 percent of the tree into the chips. At the exit, we get one vase and a huge pile of shavings, but the vases are not made of poplar - from the valuable tree species, although the poplar is growing. Our method of manufacturing a vase from a tree will be different. Soon you will become clear how to make a vase from a tree, with a large savings of wood.

We will need:

1. The gluedboard of three wood breeds (17 * 20 * 3 cm), or the bars of three wood species, different shades.
2. Drill.
3. Tree drill.
4. Grinding nozzles.
5. Clamps ..
6. Glue on wood.
7. Shellac (substance widely used in woodworking).
8. Muslin (cotton fabric), brush.

Ribbon wood cutting machine.

The entire vase from the tree can be formed from one glued billet. It allows us to make an angle under which the rings of our future vase are cut. And the effect is as if the vase is made of solid workpiece.

The first we need a sloping board from various wood species (walnut, red wood, maple).

A gluing, along the long side, goes in such a man, red tree, maple, then a red tree, nut. We adjust the template to the central line of the adhesive strip and apply markup. It is precisely exactly, the combination of the central strip will allow to achieve the effect of a continuous billet.

Cut out, the blank on the outer contour of the first ring, for this (no matter how regrettable) you will need a ribbon machine for wood cutting.

Thereafter. At the intersection of the central lines of the workpiece and the inner oval markup, you need to drill a hole of the angle of 25 degrees in order to fill the saw.

For drilling at an angle, it is necessary to cut auxiliary pattern - cut one edge of a wooden solid wood bar, in this angle. Write an angle in Bruke (we will need several with different angles).

Then drink the core of the blank over the contour, the table angle exhibit 25 degrees. We adjust the ring to the balance of the board, aligning the central strips, result in the inner edge, we create a cutting line of the second ring. Next, we repeat the cutting procedure only, the angle of the hole take 28 degrees. With the help of the second ring, we do the third, sticking to the above instructions. As a result, we obtain three rings and the diame of our vase from the tree.

We glue three rings together. We pre-check whether they are tightly adjacent to each other (you can combine the rings and shine inside the flashlight). Fit the irregularities, if any, we make sandpaper, and check again.

We smear the ring with glue, we combine so that the central line seems to be solid. Clear into clamps using two boards.

Our glue is dry, time to grind.

We grind various nozzles, gradually reducing grain size, to obtain a flat surface. After grinding, we stick to the Donets, we try so that the glue does not speak, if he spoke, in five minutes, gently open the clamps to wipe the glue with a moistened with a rag, and to hold back to complete drying. Next, grind the vase together with the Don.

The final operation is to make several layers of shellaca, bring the brilliance of the Muslen.

How to make a vase from the tree now it is clear - but I'm not very simple to embody, as it turned out.