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Construction of a drainage system around the house. Drainage system around the house: drainage device for the foundation of a residential building

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Beginning construction a small country house or a respectable cottage, everyone expects that his brainchild will stand for more than one ten years and will serve growing children and even grandchildren.
How long will it last? built house- depends primarily on correctly executed grounds.
But even quality foundation will not help if he is in constant conditions dampness caused by the presence of moisture in the surrounding soil.

Water can penetrate into the ground after rain, when snow melts, and the most unpleasant case is if the area is high ground water level(UGV).

What is it and what is its purpose
To avoid flooding foundation by rain, melt or groundwater and serves drainage system, which is a collection of devices intended for removal excess moisture: trays, channels, trenches, wells and so on.

Drainage systems are used for foundation protection a separate building or the entire site, if it is located in an area with low relief. This article discusses drainage systems for foundations house under construction.

Main types of drainage structures

Trenches of this type are used to drain surface water when the area on which the house under construction is located has practically no no slope or even in small depression.

After prolonged rains, you can only approach such a house in rubber boots, not to mention spring flood.

Using open ground trenches they organize collection and disposal surface water into the sewer system, a special collection well, or off-site, if possible.

Open systems are easy to make, but they spoil the landscape and are unsafe when walking - you can easily trip.

Closed

Such drainage is a more effective solution for draining soil on significant depth- up to one and a half meters.

Represents a system filter pipes, placed in water-permeable material: small crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay

For this purpose, special perforated pipes with numerous holes small diameter.

You can also use regular plastic sewer pipes by drilling holes using an electric drill. The design of such a system is much more complex and expensive.

Backfill

Used for a small area backfill drainage trenches. They successfully remove both surface and groundwater.

In this case, there is no need to spend money on purchasing pipes and related accessories (angles, tees, gratings, etc.). Ditches are dug to a depth of 1 to 1.5 m the perimeter of the house at some distance and fill them with broken bricks or crushed stone of large fractions.


It is better to cover this backfill with a strip of geotextile on top, and then fill it earth with laying turf. True, they cannot be cleaned after silting.

Superficial

There is nothing more than open drainage. It has 2 varieties: point and line.

Point drainage

Perform for local lead water (from one point). For example, from a drainpipe, from a garden shower or watering tap.

If there is a place on the site where often accumulates water, it is easiest to get rid of it using this method. The device is water intake, usually purchased, laid flush with the surface of the earth in the required location.

Concrete or plastic are attached to it trays, laid with a slope of about 1 degree in the direction of water drainage. The top of the trays is covered with metal or plastic bars.

Linear drainage

If several point receivers combine into one general drainage main, you get a linear drainage system.

It should be recalled that point and linear systems only assign superficial water

The final destination could be storm drain, receiving sump or filter well.

Deep

If the house is located in the lowlands, or at depth there is a waterproof clay layer, as well as at high groundwater level quantity underground water will be large.

In this case, deep drainage should be performed closed type, the device of which is described above. To avoid clogging drainage pipes, make inspection (cleaning) pipes wells of such a size that you can put your hand into it.

Position cleaning elements follows in corner, T-shaped junctions and through 10–12 meters of underground communications. Depending on the location relative to the foundation, deep drainage can be wall or ring.

Wall drainage

Arranged when there is a basement or basement. A trench is dug close to the wall of the strip foundation.

You can avoid additional excavation work if you do it when laying the foundation. The depth of the shallowest point should be approximately 20 cm greater than the depth of the sole.

The pipe is being laid inside drainage layer of gravel, small crushed stone or expanded clay, wrapping everything with geotextile fabric.

When backfilling a ditch with soil, a layer of clean coarse-grained soil is poured close to the side surface of the foundation. river sand, with layer-by-layer compaction 25–30 cm thick.

You should first coat the foundation wall with a layer of greasy crumpled clay(clay castle).

Ring drainage

Performed if there is no basement in the house. In this case, a trench is dug after the construction of the house is completed at a distance of 1.5–3 m from the foundation.

We carry out drainage ourselves

Best time to make

Drainage system is best build in summer, although in the heat it’s tempting to rest in the shade

And the ground at this time can be so dry that you can even pick it with a crowbar. Despite these negative aspects, there is no better time of year to do this work.

in spring, after the snow melts, the ground remains damp for a long time. If a drainage system is made at this time, by autumn the earth will settle, and it may the seal is broken connections of drainage pipes, which will require further additional time to eliminate defects.

On autumn months hope is frivolous, inclement rains may result in work having to be rescheduled until next summer season.

Preparing for installation

More attention should be paid to preparation for production drainage around a residential building. Lack of thoughtfulness in the layout of the device can lead to unnecessary excavation work or the purchase of unnecessary building materials, which will then uselessly occupy storage space.

Before starting work, it is necessary to draw up a large-scale site plan indicating elevation marks, select a location for placement settling well.


If you plan to drain wastewater for the territory of the site, it is necessary to obtain permission from the local sanitary and epidemiological station (SES). Otherwise, all the work may be in vain, and money may be wasted.

Required Tools

For the manufacture of drainage system You won't need many tools. Most of them, as a rule, are available to each owner:

  • measuring tape 30–50 m long;
  • building level;
  • hydraulic level up to 50 m long;
  • bayonet and shovel shovels;
  • wheelbarrow.

Instead of a hydraulic level, it’s a good idea to purchase an optical or laser level level. The laser device will be useful for interior decoration of a house under construction.

Experience shows that the hydraulic level has an unpleasant property “lie” during the measurement process. This happens due to the fact that the connecting hose can get air bubbles, which lead to distortion of the result.

Making drainage

Let's consider making a drainage system around the house with your own hands. Let's do this using the example of constructing a deep wall drainage(meaning that the drainage system is being built simultaneously with the construction of the foundation):


Making a drainage well

At the end of the drainage system they erect filter or overflow drainage well. If it is not possible to drain water from it directly at the location, you will have to pump out the water using submersible pump.

For well installation you can purchase ready-made concrete or plastic sections and assemble them into a finished structure. Purchased rings from reinforced concrete during installation will create difficulties due to heavy weight.

Alternatively, you can cast a well made of concrete directly at the place of its installation.

Done according to all rules drainage system along the perimeter of the house under construction will save foundation from exposure to moisture, thanks to which the waterproofing will retain its protective functions for a long time, the basement will be dry, and the walls of the house will serve more than one generation.

Drainage at home: do it yourself, step-by-step instructions, videos, tips and tricks. From this article you will learn the features of such a design as the drainage system of a house: the installation of drainage at the foundation part of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements put forward for storm drainage. You will be able to study in detail the technology for creating wall-type drainage, and also get acquainted with the prices for this type of work, performed by turnkey specialists.


The drainage system is equipped to protect the house from storm, melt and groundwater

General information about the drainage system of the house

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with performing waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but the two technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they make it possible to create reliable protection for the base of a residential building from moisture.


Installation of a drainage system for a private house

Organizing a drainage system for a home, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. From the outside, the foundation may be affected by flood waters and sediment accumulation. On the inside, flooding is caused by groundwater if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection comes in handy.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the base of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration over a long period of time. Long-term exposure to moisture will eventually expose weak spots and holes in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage when the groundwater level is high.

The feasibility of installing drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of a building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. Such factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the load-bearing structures of the building.


Wall drainage is necessary to remove ground, rain and melt water from the foundation

This result can be caused either by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, or by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in the following cases:

  1. The site has a low-lying location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more pressing the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
  2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural manner - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in water level in the area.
  3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water collects on the surface in such quantities that it simply does not have time to be removed through natural means.
  4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.


Design of foundation drainage for a residential building

Note! Drainage patterns around the houseshould take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and rest areas that have asphalt or paved tile surfaces.

Main types of drainage and stormwater around the house

Correctly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a stormwater system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

  • perform the calculations correctly;
  • select the type of system appropriate to the site conditions;
  • select materials suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
  • carry out drainage of the foundation and blind area in accordance with the requirements and technology.


Drainage system around the house

Choosing a foundation drainage system

The type of system is selected based on the conditions in the area. The more acute the problem with flooding in a site, the more drastic the protective measures must be.

Main types of surface systems:

  • storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in its simple and accessible technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain can only remove melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
  • linear system - covers a wide range of tasks and is capable of draining the entire territory of a summer cottage and the area around the building. In this case, water moves through channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels are characterized by a linear type of placement. Special grilles are put on top;
  • a point system is a do-it-yourself option for foundation drainage, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. Such sources include watering taps and drainpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative grilles made of metal. They prevent the system from clogging with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with your own hands in accordance with technology that involves the subsequent connection of water transmission paths to a single main line leading to the well.


Linear drainage around the house

Helpful advice! Point and linear systems can be combined, resulting in a combined drainage option that makes it possible to increase the efficiency of draining the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality home drainage system: cost of work

The price of turnkey drainage around a house is, of course, much higher than the cost of similar work done with your own hands. But in this case you get:

  • guaranteed quality of result;
  • full compliance with all technological standards;
  • accurate calculation of all parameters and correct choice of materials;
  • absence of errors fatal to the system;
  • high speed of organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

Cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the cost of installing each additional rainwater inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles/piece.

To make a more accurate cost calculation, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser you should purchase a storm inlet), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (on the basis of this indicator the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for draining storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to a shallow storm drain (up to 1 m). It will only be able to function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below soil freezing (more than 1.5 m) can handle rain and melt water. This type of sewer can be used in combination with heated cable drain systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

  • drainage at the foundation part of the building;
  • garden drainage systems.


Diagram of the drainage system at a summer cottage

To organize stormwater and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

  • "herringbone";
  • "partial sampling";
  • "parallel placement".

Closed or open drainage systems are installed in garden plots. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage placement scheme involves digging in and installing a clay castle across the entire foundation along the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended for use if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. In this case, the depth of drainage around the house is determined by the level of placement of the floors. The pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

  • sand cushion;
  • geotextile film;
  • pipeline (internal diameter 100-200 mm);
  • a layer of sand with a drainage purpose;
  • soil;
  • layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).


Ring (trench) drainage – most suitable for sandy surfaces

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches with a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent the penetration of moisture into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, you need to arrange a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back 0.5 m from it. Thanks to this, you eliminate the possibility of flooding the basement floor, as well as basements.

House drainage installation: price of foundation specialist services

As in the case of storm drains, prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the depth level of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the roundaboutdrainage around the house: cost of workFull construction:

Installing a collector well for this system, complete with a pumping station, will cost approximately 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

Calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of depth depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also take into account the required distance from the wall).

Arrangement of wallhouse drainage: cost of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system at home: do-it-yourself drainage system

To arrange drainage for a blind area around a house or other similar system, a soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data becomes known during the construction of the foundation part of the building. To do this, several wells (4-5 pieces) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the area is studied.

On clayey and loamy soils, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.


Drainage around the house allows you to slow down the process of foundation destruction due to the influence of groundwater

Helpful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of drainage system to professionals. If problems arise, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightcalculation of freezing depth:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organizing wall drainage at home: how to install it correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

  1. Treatment of the base with a bitumen primer from the outside.
  2. Applying bitumen mastic over a dried surface.
  3. Gluing a reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 2x2 mm.
  4. Dry the surface during the day.
  5. Applying a second layer of bitumen mastic.

The specific gravity of the soil may influence the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main soil categories are presented in the table.

Distances between drains forDIY drainage devices around the house:

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, take into account not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying spacing is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage at home: how to do the main body of work

The procedure for creating foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

  • a collector well is being installed at the lowest point of the site;
  • a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope towards the drainage basin, which is adjusted using a building level;
  • a sand cushion 5 cm thick is created at the bottom of the trenches;
  • geotextile fabric is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the fabric can be overlapped;
  • formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;


Home drainage is a priority task

  • installation of pipes at an angle of 2°;
  • joining pipeline elements using corner connectors and adapters;
  • Inspection wells are placed in the corners of the structure. A pipeline with a slope is laid from them to the drainage well;
  • formation of a gravel embankment 10 cm thick;
  • wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
  • filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

To install this system, it is necessary to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account that their depth must exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes in your work. The trenches must be removed 5-8 m from the base of the house, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.


Drainage pipe for drainage system

In this case, the trenches should also be located with a slope towards the well to collect water. The minimum slope is 2-3 cm/linear m. By adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

  1. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench and geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped around the walls of the trench).
  2. A crushed stone cushion 10 cm thick is formed.
  3. A pipeline with an element diameter of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2° is being installed.
  4. Inspection wells are installed in those places where the pipes are turned. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
  5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
  6. The free edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped.
  7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.


Closed drainage, subject to device technology and proper operation, effectively collects water for many years

Organizing drainage around the house with your own hands without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can be done without the use of pipes and even crushed stone. Alternative types of drainage:

  1. Backfill system - available materials (concrete fragments, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and always geotextile fabric are used as filler for trenches.
  2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with screwed caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
  3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm, tied with nylon laces or wire, are used.
  4. Perch drainage - spacer sticks are installed at the bottom of the trenches, where small young trees or long branches are then placed.
  5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way as to form a triangle in cross-section, with the apex pointing downwards. Before filling with soil, it is recommended to place moss on the boards as a filter.


Foundation drainage is necessary to protect the house when the groundwater level is high

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and the service life of drainage from scrap materials cannot be predicted.

For a more detailed look at the classic technology of creating drainage around your house with your own hands, use the video below. Only in this case will you be able to achieve truly high-quality, effective and durable results. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will receive a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without a pipeline.

Drainage system around the house

Even the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot indefinitely resist ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects in the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and to prevent the foundation from becoming a capillary pump over time and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation or, at least, reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

The most reliable way to protect the foundation from getting wet is to remove water from it through drainage. The following describes various drainage systems and provides examples of their implementation.

What is drainage and how does it work?

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a drainage pump. Waterproofing and a drainage system around the house complement each other perfectly and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As you know from a school physics course, liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always flows into a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries quite slowly. Therefore, quickly draining the collected water through the drainage pipes allows you to create a dry area behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

It is not difficult to lay drainage around the house with your own hands. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, for example, to a special well.

In any case, drainage pipes are installed at a slope. Ideally, the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby where water can be discharged. In a horizontal area located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it fills. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

There are two types of do-it-yourself foundation drainage for a house: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary for draining water after melting snow and rain from the surface of the soil or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected into it along the foundation area, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer pipe. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum precipitation level in the area and the area of ​​the roof that collects water.

To protect from groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally below the base of the foundation.

To save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the waste and drainage systems by organizing the drainage of roof gutters into a drainage pipe. This should not be done under any circumstances, since during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drainage water, and it actively penetrates into the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into a drainage storage tank, but always through its own separate pipe.

The drainage arrangement itself greatly depends on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sandy horizons. Heavy clay soil does not allow water to pass through well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, you will have to dig an exploration pit. On very wetlands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed using a waterproof film or even a concrete barrier in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a perforated drainage pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it due to its slope. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the home’s self-installed drainage works, and the more water is drained from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the water drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. During drainage installation, this angle must be controlled using a meter bubble level and a centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of ​​the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch has a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging in the soil.

Construction of a drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. Water-permeable geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the ditch with overlapping edges. A layer of coarse sand and several centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured onto it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone.

Then it is completely covered with crushed stone and the whole thing is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and crushed stone act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is filled with a thin layer of small crushed stone and then with soil.

How to make drainage around a house with high levels of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is first installed along the outer edge of the ditch. The simplest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing felt. The depth of the ditch in this case must exceed the level of the waterproof clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, the drainage must complete a perimeter around the foundation. The drainage point is installed in the place where the pipes are most buried. As already mentioned, a storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage and drainage pipes is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point for the rain drain.

Bottom line

A drainage system around the house provides a fairly high level of protection against the foundation getting wet. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be free from many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.









People living in country houses often face a problem when an excess amount of water accumulates in the area adjacent to the building due to heavy rains or melting snow, which in turn disrupts the comfort of living. Also, a complicating factor is the high groundwater level in the area. Problems of this nature arise in properties located in lowlands or on hillsides, where the clay content in the soil reaches high levels. Excessive amounts of moisture in the soil have a detrimental effect on the foundation of a building, eroding adjacent layers of soil and flooding basements.

Drainage is a technology for removing excess moisture from the foundation Source bestlandscapeideas.com

A drainage system that will collect and drain excess water from the area adjacent to the house will help get rid of the above problems. This product can be used throughout the entire area, but this is a rather expensive option in terms of finances and time. Installing drainage around the house is a sufficient measure for comfortable living.

What is drainage?

Drainage is a system that removes excess moisture from a building using a pipe structure. There is an opinion that to effectively collect water, only a blind area is enough, but experts in this field recommend installing a full-fledged drainage system, which allows for much better protection of the building from the harmful effects of moisture.

No matter how beautiful the blind area is, it will not completely protect the house from moisture Source pinterest.at

Drainage system for home can be of three types:

  • Open. It is a structure where open type trenches are used as drainage drains, the depth and width of which is 0.5 meters. This is the easiest drainage option for self-installation. The disadvantages of such a system include the unaesthetic appearance, as well as the unreliability of the structure, which will require additional reinforcement of the walls with special trays;
  • Zasypnaya. This is a structure where prepared trenches are filled with coarse crushed stone or rubble, and turf is laid on top. The advantage of such drainage is its long service life and ease of installation. In addition to the advantages, there are also disadvantages: low throughput, inability to carry out maintenance;
  • Closed. This is done by laying drainage pipes with holes in the ground. This system is efficient and does not have the disadvantages of other systems. Its disadvantage is that the installation is quite complicated.

A closed drainage system is difficult to do correctly without certain skills and knowledge Source handmaster.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer installation and design services for sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Mistakes made when performing drainage yourself

Installing a drainage system without the participation of specialists is often accompanied by the following mistakes:

  • The use of a wall drainage system to ensure the removal of excess moisture in areas with high groundwater levels;
  • The use of pipelines in geotextile-type filters in areas with clay soil, which will ultimately lead to their clogging;
  • Application of levels during pipeline laying;
  • Installation of stormwater wells where drainage wells should be installed;

The most common mistake is to install only one drainage system around the house. As practice shows, this is too little. It is necessary to install a drainage system that will drain water from the roof of the building into a special well.

Also, you should avoid using one pipeline for drainage and storm water around the house, since the drainage will not cope with its functions during rains, which will lead to flooding of the area. Overmoistening of the soil near the foundation can lead to its heaving during frosts, which in turn will have a detrimental effect on the foundation of the house, even to the point of complete destruction.

Soil heaving is one of the serious reasons leading to the destruction of a house Source martand.ru

To make storm drains, orange sewer pipes (designed for soil) and special wells are used where excess water will accumulate, which can later be used to water the vegetation.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage pattern around the house is divided into two basic varieties:

  • Surface(violates the aesthetic appearance of the site);
  • Deep(perforated pipelines are used).

Surface drainage

Surface drainage around the house is more affordable, simple and easy to perform all necessary operations. Such drainages cannot cope with groundwater and are used only to drain melt and rainwater. There are the following surface drainage systems:

  • Linear. It is used to drain rain and melt water from the entire area of ​​the site. Through trenches dug in the soil, water is drained into a special well, where it accumulates. Such channels are closed on top with decorative grilles;
  • Spot. Used to quickly collect water from one source. This drainage is covered with a special metal grate to prevent clogging. All local points are connected by pipes to the main pipeline, which drains water into the drainage well;

Carefully closed points will not disturb the inhabitants of the yard and will not spoil the exterior of the house Source evkrov.ru

  • Open. It is a system of channels and drainage trays designed to drain excess water. Its unhindered movement is ensured by a bevel in the trench at an angle of about 30°, directed towards the main trench or drainage well. The advantage of an open drainage system is its low cost and ease of performing the necessary work. Disadvantages include the destructibility of the trench walls and non-aesthetic appearance;
  • Closed. The arrangement is similar to open drainage, except for the use of special trays with decorative gratings, which increases the service life of the structure and also improves safety;
  • Zasypnaya. This type of system is used in areas with a small area where it is not practical to install open drainage. The arrangement of backfill drainage begins with digging a channel 1 meter deep (the slope should be directed towards the drainage well). The base of the trench is covered with geotextile, after which it is filled with coarse crushed stone or gravel. To give an aesthetic appearance to the site, the structure is covered with a layer of turf on top. Such drainage of the house and site has its drawbacks, including the impossibility of maintenance during operation without dismantling work.

This is what the backfill moisture protection scheme looks like Source vse-o-kanalizacii.ru

Deep type drainage

In places with high groundwater levels, or in properties with clay soil located in lowlands, a deep drainage scheme around the house is used. Systems of this type must cope with the removal of large volumes of water, so the arrangement process is accompanied by the use of perforated pipes, the diameter of which depends on the amount of liquid being drained.

Video description

About the arrangement of deep drainage, watch the video:

There are two types of deep drainage system around the house:

  • Wall-mounted. Installed in country houses with a basement or ground floor. Such drainage does not require additional work for arrangement, as it is installed during laying of the foundation. The pipelines are laid directly into the pit dug underneath. At the lowest point of the trench, it is necessary to install a drainage tank, which will serve as a storage well, or drain water outside the site;
  • Ring. Ring drainage around the house is used in areas with a high clay content in the soil, as well as in the absence of basements and ground floors in the house. Trenches are dug at some distance from the building (2-3 meters). The drainage depth around the house must be half a meter greater than the lowest point of the foundation. This is necessary to increase the effectiveness of its protection. A layer of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the trenches.

The ring system is used in clay areas, and in the absence of a base and basement in the house Source gazobetoneco.ru

The cost of installing turnkey drainage systems

Hiring specialists allows you to avoid many mistakes when arranging a drainage system. There are many companies on the market that provide drainage installation services, including project development and carrying out all the necessary work. The average cost of such services is 2300-5000 rubles per square meter and a depth of 1 to 3 meters, respectively.

Also, additional services may be offered, which are paid separately:

  • Laying a pipeline for a storm sewer system. The cost of laying pipes to a shallow depth on average reaches 1,000 rubles per linear meter, and laying to a freezing depth is available at a price of about 1,800 rubles;
  • The cost of manufacturing a manhole depends on the installation depth and reaches approximately 7,000-10,000 rubles for a recess of 1.5-3 meters, respectively;

When connecting pipes to a manhole, it is important to ensure that the joints are tight Source saratov.tiu.ru

  • Installation of a storm drain is available at an average price of 4,000 rubles.
Important! It is better to sign contracts for the installation of turnkey drainage systems with trusted companies that provide a warranty period, which should be at least 3 years.

The price for drainage installation is cumulative and depends on the following conditions:

  • Land area(cost calculation depends on the length of the channels);
  • Complex necessary works;
  • Slope angle(height between the top and bottom points of the trench);
  • Soil type(work on wet clay soil is more expensive than work on normal soil);
  • Ground water level(deep drainage is more expensive than surface drainage).

Video description

For a clear overview of drainage systems, watch the video:

Conclusion

Arranging a drainage system in suburban areas is a necessary condition for comfortable living in a private home. The correct choice of drainage scheme and its correct installation will help protect the building’s foundation from the harmful effects of moisture, which will ensure a long service life of the entire structure. You can arrange the drainage system yourself, but it is better to trust professionals who will carry out all the necessary work efficiently and quickly.

In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. These are the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent this process from occurring. It is capable of removing excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot compare in terms of protection for a house with a installed drainage system. It is highly recommended to install such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or ground floor.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several options:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a specific type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Let's consider what features the drainage system around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:


Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, a main drainage system must be installed.

Please note that if you decide to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will ensure high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about this, then you may find our separate material on this topic useful.

Drainage installation

Let's look at how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Manufacturing of wall drainage

Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will be directly adjacent to it.

To do this, the following work is carried out:

  1. The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bitumen primer.
  2. Bitumen mastic is applied to the dried surface.
  3. A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
  4. The next day, after the mastic has hardened, a second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

The photo shows the drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells along the edges
  • A collector well is installed to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
  • using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench running near the foundation is ensured towards the drainage basin;
  • the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
  • geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be wrapped overlapping;
  • a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of about 10 cm;
  • Prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is ensured at 2 degrees;
  • pipes are joined with adapters and corner connectors;
  • at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter installed inspection wells;
  • Pipes are laid from inspection wells to drain water into a collection well or drainage pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
  • The pipes are filled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped in geotextiles. Using synthetic ropes, geotextiles are firmly fixed;
  • further backfilling of the trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or turf soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Manufacturing of ring drainage

For this type of work you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around a house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building to eliminate the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the structure and form a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes 50 cm below the foundation level.

Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.


  • the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped on their walls;
  • crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile in a layer of 10 cm;
  • Pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the crushed stone. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to first wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;

Tip: Regular PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. You can drill holes of small diameter in them with a drill, arranging them in a certain order.

  • the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
  • At pipe bends, inspection wells are installed, covered with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
  • crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes in a layer of 20-30 cm;
  • the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with geotextile overlapping;
  • the remaining space in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or building must be constructed using several inspection wells located at pipe bends. It is in these places that drainage pipes become clogged most often. Through the inspection well, you can monitor the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any materials. They should have such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.


In addition to several inspection wells, at the lowest point of the site there is collector well, designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are located at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to fill with wastewater. From the collection tank, water can be pumped out by a pump or flow by gravity to designated areas.

By creating a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the harmful effects of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed areas of the house.