Most car enthusiasts have a garage, which often serves not only as a haven for their favorite car, but is also used as a workshop or a place for men’s conversations. It often happens that in cold weather, warming up the engine takes longer than the trip itself, and as a result, the relevance of the planned trip is reduced to zero. And discussing the latest trends in the field of motor transport with friends is much more comfortable in a warm room. Agree that it is much better to carry out car repairs or other activities in a warm place. Therefore, be sure to take care of heating the garage space.

The right solution to a “cold” situation would be a DIY garage oven. Preparing components and assembling them yourself will not be difficult if you have even a little skill in working with different materials and tools.

When choosing the right type of stove for your garage, the main considerations are:

What types of ovens are there?

Modern garage heating units available for sale on the market have certain characteristics that allow the equipment to be classified. The main factor is the type of heating material.

Based on this principle, the following types of heating equipment are distinguished:

Requirements for the design of a stove for a garage

To decide on the type of stove, answer yourself the following few questions:

1. How much money are you willing to spend on a heating device?
2. What is the area of ​​the proposed garage space for heating?
3. How long do you plan to heat the garage?

Important! If the garage is an extension to a living space, then we recommend installing a unit connected to a common gas or electrical network. If this is an autonomous room that does not have residential buildings with communications nearby, make a separate system.

To ensure that the oven does not cause inconvenience during operation, the following characteristics will be suitable parameters for the unit being created:

How to assemble a wood stove structure with your own hands?

An economical, self-assembled wood-burning stove is considered the easiest to maintain and is ideal for heating self-contained garage buildings. Often in the household of a car enthusiast there is a heating structure called a potbelly stove.

Benefits of a wood stove

This stove has a lot of advantages, including:

Features of the design of the stove-stove

The type of stove design “potbelly stove” does not have clear regulations.

Each master can build this design, taking into account his own preferences, but in any case, such a stove has the main structural elements:

Important! If you modernize the design of the potbelly stove, you will be able to significantly save firewood consumption. This effect can be achieved if the pipe is welded to the stove body above the door, and not, as is customary, at the back near the wall. Thanks to this installation of the pipe, the walls of the structure will heat up first, and only then will the firewood enter the pipe. Due to this, the heat transfer time will increase, since a brick, concrete-clay or insulated metal pipeline cools much more slowly than a steel body.

Materials for constructing a wood stove

To assemble a wood stove yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials:

Installation technology

How to operate a wood stove?

After assembling the stove design, initially test it for proper functioning. Follow these steps:

Video

Watch the video, which clearly shows an example of creating and operating a wood-burning stove with your own hands.

Stove in progress

Compared to other similar designs, an oil-fired garage stove stands out for its efficiency, ease of operation and inexpensive combustible material. The design of the mining stove is similar to the design of a potbelly stove.

Application benefits

Among the characteristic advantages are the following:

Materials for construction

You can construct a furnace for mining yourself, which will not require a lot of effort and will not take much time. To build a homemade garage stove, you will need:

Installation technology for a garage stove using oil

To construct a “working off” stove with your own hands, follow these steps:

As a result of correctly performed work, you will receive a unit with the following parameters:

Rules for operating the stove during “working out”

To ensure that the result of the stove’s operation is justified and that it fully heats the garage space, carefully read the following operating recommendations:

How does the stove work?

To set up the operation of a homemade garage furnace during mining, do the following:

Video

To more clearly imagine the principle of the design of such a furnace and operation, watch the video below.

The main criterion in relation to the construction of a brick stove is compliance with compact dimensions, and in all other respects the system of such a stove is similar to the previous options.

To properly build a brick stove, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

Conclusion

Whatever type of stove design for your garage you choose, in any case, it will give the expected result. With the help of any simple unit proposed above, you can always maintain a warm climate inside the garage. And in comfortable conditions, it’s more pleasant to carry out repair work and have conversations with friends.

As a rule, technical rooms and garages are not connected to centralized heating. But after their construction, there is often a need to warm up such buildings, especially if there is a car or a workshop there. For such purposes, a garage oven is installed. It should be compact and also relatively quickly heat the room to the desired temperature.

• Show all

  Suitable options for the garage

  

  Homemade stoves for the garage are made of steel according to the design of a regular potbelly stove. Old gas cylinders, sections of steel pipes or metal barrels are used as material for the main part. Using such spare parts, you can significantly save money and time, since the main part of the body (sometimes even with the bottom) is already ready.

  Housings are also made from metal sheets. Brick models are sometimes found in garages, but very rarely. This is due to large dimensions, slow heating and low efficiency. The most popular options are those that use wood as an energy source. But you can use any fuel here (anything that burns).

  As practice shows, such designs have a number of disadvantages, one of which is high fuel consumption. Because of this, long-burning stoves have recently begun to quickly gain popularity. Their efficiency is twice that of conventional models. The most economical of them are top-burning designs. A 50-liter container from a gas cylinder, completely filled with firewood, can work from 6 to 9 hours. At the same time, the room will always be warm throughout.

  Waste oil stoves are also used in garages. The designs are quite economical, since there is a lot of such fuel in garages. You should also remember the harm that working off brings. It contains many heavy metals. But the oil design is one of the most popular.

  A simple, economical, long-burning stove in the garage with your own hands

  

  Installation of a potbelly stove

  

  Potbelly stoves began to be popularized in the 20s of the 20th century and have occupied first positions since then. Previously, they were installed not only in technical rooms, but even in apartments. The main element most often used is a steel pipe or a gas cylinder. In addition, barrels can also be used, but they must have a thick wall and a small diameter. When using any material, the wall thickness should not be less than 3-4 mm (optimally 5 mm). Such a device will work for a long time.

  For independent production, vertical and horizontal placement is suitable. It is more convenient to use the first option, since the firebox will be compact and spacious. But by placing the stove horizontally, you can use longer firewood. In the case of a vertical shape, they need to be cut finely.

  

  Production of vertical stove

  A vertical homemade stove for a garage is made from a pipe or gas cylinder. Conventionally, a segment can be divided into two unequal parts: one large one is for storing firewood, and the second smaller one is for the ash pan.

  The work is carried out in the following sequence:

  

  

  Horizontal shape

  An old gas cylinder is ideal for these purposes. The ash pan is welded at the bottom of the structure. Holes should be made in the cylinder itself, which will act as grate bars (allow ash to pass through). To remove smoke from the top of the structure, a chimney is welded. You can use a cut pipe for this. Its edge is welded and adjusted to the angle of the side of the cylinder, that is, it should be semicircular. After checking the welds, the ring inside is cut out using a grinder or a metal cutting saw.

  Next you need to make the legs. Steel corners welded to the bottom side of the cylinder are well suited for these purposes. Platforms (rectangular pieces of thick steel sheet) are also added to them, which will make the structure stable. Then the doors for the ash pan and the main part are cut out. The gaps in the ash pan are acceptable; air will pass through them for the combustion process. The opening for storing firewood must be completely covered with doors without gaps. In this way it will be possible to regulate the air supply and combustion intensity.

  
  

  Homemade garage stoves are sometimes made with a cast iron door. The DIY process is a little more complicated. To do this, first a metal frame for the cast plate is welded. The two parts are held together with bolts. Then the hinges are welded to the frame and body (the “female” part to the body, and the “folder” to the frame). The door is installed on hinges.

  Original long-burning potbelly stove

  Using two barrels

  You can weld a stove for a garage using two barrels. People who have used a classic potbelly stove know that during operation it gets very hot (sometimes red) and produces very strong radiation. The craftsmen quickly solved this problem and came up with a design consisting of two barrels of different diameters placed inside each other. The distance between the barrels is filled with a mixture of pebbles and sand, which needs to be heated and poured back when it has cooled down. The inner barrel will be used as a firebox, and the outer one will simply be used as a housing.

  Long burning

  Do-it-yourself wood-burning garage stoves can be made using the long-burning principle. There are many varieties of such designs. For example, the “Bubafonya” stove, which sharply began to gain popularity about 5 years ago, is now owned by many homeowners. The big advantage of this model is that you can use not only firewood as fuel, but also other combustion products, for example, shavings or sawdust. There are craftsmen who convert the “bubafonya” (popularly named after the author) into a heating system for the garage. It is enough to make a water jacket and install a pipe system.

  A very big disadvantage of this model is the need to turn the entire body over in order to shake out the ash. If you have a welding machine, this option is easy to do, even with minimal work skills.

  Scheme and principle of operation

  Long-term combustion is ensured due to the specifics of the process. The wood burns from above, and the flame goes down as the upper layers burn through. Due to this, the flame spreads much slower. Almost immediately after starting operation, the stove generates a large amount of heat. In the classic design, the design has a cylindrical shape. The barrel stands in an upright position without a lid, but with a bottom.

  Heating the garage. Super - cylinder stove "100% efficient" / Propane wood stove

  The main design elements are:

  • cylindrical barrel;
  • lid with hole and handles;
  • “weight” with a welded pipe (for supplying air and pressing firewood).

  Having made a stove in the garage with your own hands according to the drawings, you can start checking the work. The operating principle of such a stove is simple. The body is completely filled with firewood mixed with sawdust and the stuffing is set on fire. The pipe that supplies air to the primary chamber is closed with a lid, and when the filling is very hot, the barrel is also closed with a lid. The pipe itself has many holes, so air always flows in for constant combustion.

  The design has a secondary and primary combustion chamber. They are separated by the so-called load - a circle of slightly smaller diameter than the barrel itself. Firewood is placed and burned in the primary combustion chamber. Through the gap formed at the “cargo” level, combustion products (gases) enter the secondary chamber. They are placed in a well-heated oven again, heating the oven even more. The lid of the barrel cannot be made airtight, since combustion air will flow through the cracks, and this will increase draft, which is also important in such a design.

  
  

  The burning gases in the upper part provide no less heat than the firewood itself in the primary combustion chamber. Therefore, this design is very effective. It gives off two or more times more heat than an ordinary potbelly stove. As the burning process progresses, the weight will lower, pressing down on the wood until it is all burned. After the complete stack has burned to the ground, you can put in a new batch of firewood and start the process all over again. After the secondary chamber, the gases exit through the chimney. It is necessary to throw away the ashes after several deposits. All wood burns completely. At the end, only ashes and a few coals from the lower balls remain.

  Do-it-yourself potbelly stove...

  Modifications to the unit

  The most inconvenient thing is the need to turn the structure over in order to pour out the ash. The solution to the problem is simple. It is enough to install grates and an ash pan at the bottom. But this method also has its drawbacks. A lot of air will flow through the resulting cracks, and the wood will burn faster.

  But the original design of long-term burning is characterized by smoldering, not burning, so the option is not the best. If you make the door airtight with all the seals, you can solve this problem.

Making a stove for the garage with your own hands

Unlike electric heaters, garage stoves are cheaper to operate - depending on the design, they can be heated with firewood and wood waste, wood waste, waste machine oil, etc. To minimize financial investments in organizing heating, craftsmen make a garage stove with their own hands.

A homemade stove for a garage is made mainly from sheet iron, thick-walled barrels or pipes. There are also compact brick stoves. The design is selected based on the availability of materials and fuel, and the requirements for the functionality of a garage stove - for example, it can be equipped with a hob.

A homemade stove has an open combustion chamber, which means that oxygen for combustion comes from the room. In addition, some of the flue gases enter the air. For this reason, it is necessary to provide exhaust ventilation in the garage. The stove is installed away from flammable objects; the walls and floors must be resistant to combustion.

Let's look at how to make a stove for a garage, using the example of the most common designs that have proven their efficiency and ease of use.

Potbelly stove

The metal garage wood stove is characterized by:

• high level of heating with compact dimensions;
• “omnivorous” - the use of various types of solid fuel is allowed;
• light weight - no foundation installation required;
• the ability to use for heating water and food;
• a simple design that you can do yourself if you have welding skills.

Metal stove-stove for garage

Wood-burning homemade potbelly stoves, despite external differences, consist of the following elements:

• firebox (the size of the firewood and the volume of the fuel portion depend on the dimensions of the firebox, which affects the burning time of one load);
• grates (grid on which fuel is placed), necessary to create traction;
• ash pan (compartment where ash from burnt fuel falls);
• chimney (pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm, which serves to remove flue gases).

Attention! When planning to install a potbelly stove in your garage, decide in advance on the choice of fuel. If, in addition to firewood, it is intended to use coal, sawdust and other types of fine fuels, the size of the holes or the distance between the grate bars should be reduced to 15 mm. For wood stoves this figure can be 40 mm.

The disadvantage of wood stoves is the high rate of fuel burning, as a result of which a significant part of the thermal energy evaporates along with the flue gases. A metal stove for heating a garage is equipped with a chimney that is vented through the wall or ceiling to the street. If the chimney pipe is mounted from several elbows located at an angle relative to each other, the air in the room will be additionally heated. If there is free space, a long inclined chimney is installed for the same purpose.

Scheme for installing a chimney pipe in a stove

To make the cylindrical body of the simplest potbelly stove, a 40-liter propane cylinder, a pipe or a metal barrel with a thickness of at least 2 mm is suitable. Sheet iron allows you to make a rectangular stove.

The cylindrical body can be positioned vertically or horizontally, depending on the available space in the room. A vertical stove is more compact, but the size of the firebox greatly limits the size of the firewood.

The pipe for the chimney is welded into the hole on the side or lid of the stove. For a gas cylinder, a hole for the pipe can be cut in the center of the upper rounded part, but in this case the stove is left without a hob. To create a more practical unit in a vertical design, the convex lid of the cylinder is cut off and replaced with a piece of sheet metal.

Cylindrical horizontal stove made from a gas cylinder

If the cylindrical body is located horizontally, to create a hob, a steel sheet is welded to the top and its edges are supported for rigidity. Or they weld a metal burner into the body.

A hole is cut in the side of the vertically located cylindrical body for the firebox and below for the ash pan; metal doors are installed on them - ready-made or made from a cut piece of metal with welded hinges and a latch. A round grate is placed on the corners welded inside the body.

If the housing is located horizontally, it can be divided by a rectangular grate into a combustion compartment and an ash pan, while corresponding doors are installed at the end of the housing. The second option is to weld a rectangular box made of sheet iron to the bottom of the body, in which holes are drilled or a grille is welded.

DIY cylindrical vertical oven

Potbelly stove with increased efficiency

To increase the heat transfer of an iron stove, it is recommended to make it a two-pass one - that is, to force the hot gas to pass through special channels inside the body, actively transferring heat to the room.

The two-pass heater is made of low-carbon steel sheet. It is important to use steel grade St10 or St20, since a structure made of high-carbon or alloy steel is less reliable - when heated to high temperatures, the metal hardens, which causes cracking of the welds.

Dimensional diagram for making a stove for a garage

Two pass wood burning garage furnace requires the use of:

• sheet steel 4-5 mm thick (for the body, smoke circuits, firebox doors and ash pan);
• sheet steel 6 mm thick (for the firebox arch, which experiences the maximum thermal load);
• pipes with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney pipe;
• corrugated reinforcing bars with a diameter of 16-18 mm for the grate;
• rolled metal for making legs (profile pipe 40x40 mm, corner with shelf 40 mm, etc.);
• metal latches, hinges and handles for doors.

The following drawings will help you determine the basic dimensions of the stove elements. To make it, you need to know how to weld metal with a continuous seam. All seams are checked for strength and tightness.

Increasing the efficiency of iron stoves

A potbelly stove with a standard configuration or a two-pass stove will be improved in order to increase heat transfer. The easiest way to do this is by welding metal corners or pipes to the body, which act as convective fins. The total area of ​​heat transfer increases, plus the intensity of air exchange increases, due to which the room warms up noticeably faster.

A rectangular potbelly stove can be lined with brick on one or more sides - the masonry will serve as a heat accumulator, and the stove will continue to heat the garage even after the firewood has completely burned out. If the furnace body is cylindrical, a “barrel-in-barrel” design is made for the same purpose. In this case, a special backfill between the stove body and the outer shell serves as a heat accumulator.

Design of a barrel-in-barrel stove for heating a garage

The garage stove is made from two barrels of different diameters. The lid of the one that will serve as a casing is cut off, and a hole is cut in the side for the combustion door, placing it no lower than 12 cm from the bottom. The edges of the hole are bent inward, like the top edge of the barrel itself. The door is made of sheet iron, several holes are drilled in the lower part for air flow, hinges, a handle and a latch are welded.

The made casing with an attached door is installed on a base made of channel or brick (it is important to leave an air gap between the bottom of the stove and the floor, so the base should not be solid). A layer of pebbles mixed with sand, dry clay or soil (not peaty) is poured onto the bottom of the casing. The filling is pre-calcined. Do not use rocks that split when heated or emit harmful substances.

The backfill layer at the bottom is lightly compacted so that there are no voids left. In the barrel, which will serve as the inner body of the stove, a hole is cut out corresponding to the hole in the casing, its edges are also bent inward. In the upper end part of the body, closer to the edge, a hole is drilled for the chimney and a pipe is welded. The remaining space of the lid can be used as a hob if necessary.

The inner casing must be installed along the same axis with the casing so that the backfill layer is the same around the entire circumference. Around the holes for the firebox, cut-to-size tiles of brick or stone are fixed, and they are attached to a clay mortar. The remaining space between the body and the casing is filled with backfill.

Another improvement option is to create a heat gun based on a simple vertical potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder or pipe with a wall thickness of 4 mm or more. A detailed diagram gives an idea of ​​the structure of the heating unit.

Diagram of the heating unit: front view, top view
Sectional view of the heating device

The lower part of the furnace from a gas cylinder is made using standard technology. The future heat gun needs to be equipped with a compartment for heating the air. For this purpose, the upper part of the body is cut off, a horizontal round plate is welded in, the diameter of which corresponds to the internal diameter of the cylinder. Strips of steel are pre-welded onto the top of the plate - they serve as the ribs of the air exchanger and increase the heating efficiency.

Air heating compartment with steel fins

Holes are drilled from opposite sides of the lid of the resulting air chamber and pipes are welded. A small fan must be installed on the supply side to increase the air flow intensity. The fan power depends on the size of the room. The pipe for the chimney is welded below the air chamber.

Homemade stove for heating a garage from a gas cylinder

This garage oven is easy to use and has high efficiency, but its disadvantages include its dependence on energy, since the fan requires electricity to operate. The second drawback is that the homemade product does not have a hob.

Heater under testing

A stove for a garage during mining is a convenient option if it is possible to obtain liquid fuel inexpensively or free of charge (such units can operate on other oils, such as diesel fuel). The heater is a fire hazard - it is important to ensure that the fuel does not contain water, otherwise splashes of burning oil will fly out through the holes in the afterburner (perforated pipe).

A waste oil heater is made with your own hands from sheet metal, pipes or barrels. The fuel reservoir and the upper chamber can be cylindrical or rectangular.

Waste oil stove design

Guided by the proposed drawing, you can make a classic stove for use in the garage. Fuel is poured into the lower tank, and a flammable liquid is used to ignite it. The released pyrolysis gases in the perforated afterburner are mixed with air and burn out in the upper chamber, equipped with an internal partition.

This garage stove is easy to assemble, but not very economical - about 2 liters of waste are required per hour of operation. During its operation, the smell of burning and fuel is noticeable; the room should be well ventilated.

Dimensional diagram of a homemade waste oil stove

A furnace used for processing in a garage can be a design with a drip supply of fuel. This is a safer option for garage use. There are several options for such heaters, but the principle of the device is common: it is necessary to ensure a dosed supply of fuel and air flow into the combustion chamber.

Furnace in operation with drip fuel supply

Since the oil line runs along the afterburner pipe, the fuel has time to heat up and evaporates more actively once it enters the combustion chamber. The walls of a working furnace become red-hot, so craftsmen using a dropper stove create a full-fledged liquid fuel boiler with their own hands, installing a water jacket around the body. The water circuit makes it possible to fully warm up your large garage.

A universal option is a wood-burning and waste stove. Usually this is a hybrid of a small wood stove, the body of which, if necessary, can serve as the upper chamber of a classic heater during testing. The liquid fuel reservoir is located outside the potbelly stove body and is connected to it by a straight or curved perforated afterburner.

Another option for a hybrid stove:

• the lower part of the body is a classic wood-burning stove;
• the upper part of the housing is removable, it consists of a lid, an afterburner and an upper combustion chamber;
• the afterburner is equipped with a removable casing, which turns it into a chimney when the stove burns wood;
• Inside the housing there is a tank for liquid fuel, which is removed or inserted depending on the type of energy carrier used.

Hybrid stove for heating a garage

When manufacturing such a unit, it is necessary to qualitatively adjust the size and weld all the elements. The convenience of universal stoves lies in the wide choice of fuel.

Conclusion

Having figured out how to make a stove of one type or another, you can choose the best option, taking into account the complexity of the design and efficiency. Making a heating unit for a garage with your own hands makes it possible to optimize the costs of creating a comfortable environment for car repair and maintenance work.

Video on making a stove for testing for heating a garage:

With thermal equipment, safety and reliability are important. In order not to worry about anything after installing the stove, you need to initially know what nuances to take into account when installing it, regarding the room itself:

1. There should be a space in the area opposite the door where you want to install the stove. Its size should be half a meter larger on each side of the stove to avoid ignition of nearby objects.
2. The room must have a ventilation system, at least a natural one.

Do not place any things close to the stove, especially those that are easily flammable, and make sure that when moving around the garage you do not get burned due to close contact with the heating device.

No matter how logical it may seem availability of ventilation in a garage with a heating system, it is required. The reasons for this are:

• The accumulation of moisture and condensation is categorically harmful for the car, which is implied by the conditions of any garage, especially one that has heating. For this reason, ventilation is necessary; it will be able to pick up excess moisture with the flow of incoming air and remove it from the room;
• the accumulation of toxic and dangerous substances for the body also implies actions that are usually carried out in a garage. A ventilated room will eliminate the possibility of toxic poisoning of the body, even after a very long stay in the garage.

Types of ovens

Considering the specificity of the garage heating system, it there are a number of characteristics that it must meet:

• be small in size;
• allow the use of solid and liquid fuel fractions;
• high heating speed;
• ability to maintain high temperature for a long time;
• simplicity of design;
• budget cost;
• be convenient to use;
• ease of maintenance.

Based on these criteria for suitability of garage stoves, they are divided into several types. The classification is based on the type of fuel:

1. Gas heating. Convenient in cases where there is central gas heating nearby. The price of such a system is acceptable, but there is a danger of explosion.
2. Bake, heated by solid fuel. The cost of installation and heating is low, the thermal effect is good. Convenient and easy to use.
3. Electric oven. There will be no questions regarding the quality of heating for such a stove, but the cost of heat in the garage will not be cheap.

The most optimal and popular option is a wood-heated stove. Such a stove can be purchased in a store, or you can design it yourself.

Designing a long-burning wood-burning garage stove with your own hands

Taking up the homemade stove, Some safety rules must be followed:

• the floor under the stove should be covered with a sheet of metal that will protrude 1 m beyond the door;
• protect the walls that will be located near the stove with bricks or metal sheets;
• a gap of 2.5 cm wide should be left between the chimney and the ceiling, which must be filled with basalt fiber;
• Provide protection from the wind to the gas duct by installing a deflector.

Materials that will be needed for the manufacture of heating equipment for the garage (the quantity and dimensions depend on the individual characteristics of the selected stove option):

• a barrel of any size and volume made of metal, volume 200 l;
• steel pipes, sections one longer, the other shorter;
• a little metal channel;
• hacksaw for metal, hammer, axe;
• devices for measuring length;
• reflector;
• small steel sheet;
• welding;
• brick for the foundation for the stove;
• cement and materials to prepare the solution.

Instructions for making a stove:

How to make a stove for the garage with your own hands?

1. It is best to make such a stove from a finished 200 liter barrel made of metal.

Initially, you need to prepare it for further manipulations. To do this, the top is cut off very evenly and neatly.

If it is not possible to use a barrel, then a large diameter pipe is suitable, to which the bottom should be welded. In this case, it is better to make the bottom in the shape of a square rather than a circle, so that there are no problems with stability in the future.

2. The next step in the design will be cutting out a circle from a steel sheet. It should be slightly smaller in size than the main diameter. In the same circle you need to cut another circle for the pipe. Next, you need to weld a small diameter pipe to a cut out circle of steel.
3. Next, the channel cut and prepared in advance is welded to the bottom of the same steel circle, already with a welded pipe.

It is worth taking measurements in such a way as to ensure free movement of the channel in the internal space of the barrel. This structure will make it possible to press on the mass of fuel that has already burned due to the lowering of the steel circle.

4. The next step is to make a cover for the heating structure. If the basis for it is a barrel, the upper part of it will be the lid. And if the base is a pipe, then you will have to cut a metal circle of the same diameter. You need to make a hole in the lid for a small pipe.
5. To make it possible to add fuel, you need to cut a hole for the door. A handle should be attached to the door for ease of opening and closing. You can install the door yourself by placing it on the hinges and welding it. You can use a purchased one.
6. Just below the main door, a hole is made for another one, through which burnt firewood will be removed.
7. Before installing the furnace, a mandatory step will be the construction of a foundation for it. This is done for the reason that a fireproof and durable base is a prerequisite. It is very simple to make, you just need to lay a layer of 1 brick and cement it.
8. No stove is complete without a chimney. In this case, it can be made from two pipes with a diameter of 15 cm. One should be welded on top, the other on the side and bent upward.
9. You should also take care of the reflectors, since rapid heating and a constantly heated state of the stove are ensured. The reflector will be able to redistribute heat flows. It is especially necessary in small spaces.
10. The last step is to assemble all the resulting elements together and weld them.

Some technical points that will facilitate the installation and further operation of the furnace:

1. At the assembly stage, it is recommended to connect all parts together in the opposite direction of gas flow.
2. As a precautionary measure, it is worth determining the distance at which objects that are not resistant to combustion and ignition should not be placed, as well as people should not be present, and mark it.
3. The design of the chimney itself must be such that, if necessary, it can be disassembled into parts and cleaned, after which it can be easily and quickly assembled and installed in place.
4. After installing the stove, it needs to be checked for operation in different modes so that the appropriate option can be selected.

To make sure you avoid any problems with your homemade heating system, It is recommended to consider the following factors:

• the pipe must be at least 4 m high;
• pipes can be turned a maximum of 3 times;
• The rotation angles of the pipes can only be 30 degrees; in exceptional cases, 45 degrees can be made.
• if necessary, remove the pipe horizontally, such a section can be no more than 1 m;
• On the street, it is recommended to insulate the pipe using basal wool in order to prevent the formation of condensation;
• ensure attachment to the chimney wall, removing the load from the main structure of the stove.

Providing comfortable conditions in the garage requires some effort, patience and expense. It should be remembered that it is very important to make it possible not only to heat the room, but also keep safe being in it.

For many, a garage is a non-residential premises where a personal car is parked, spare parts for it, various liquids, tools, and many other useful household items are stored there, things that are a pity to throw away.

Garage oven

Often, a cellar is built under the garage to store pickles and vegetables, which are so nice to see on the table in winter. But if the garage is not heated, then you may encounter freezing of its walls, as a result - corrosion on the car or the inability to start the engine in severe frost. In cold weather of minus 15 degrees, a car battery can be discharged in just two days of inactivity.

The temperature standard for garages is 5 degrees. However, this is not enough to carry out repairs or other work. A more comfortable temperature for a long stay in the garage is 18-20 degrees. This implies requirements for a garage stove:

• safety;
• possibility of temperature control;
• the possibility of quick installation of the furnace and ease of maintenance;
• low cost of design and fuel used;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• energy independence, that is, interruptions in water/gas/electricity should not affect the operation of the heating elements.

The choice of stoves is great. Each of the furnaces can be further upgraded by selecting the best option.

According to the fuel used, furnaces are divided into:

• electrical;
• gas;
• solid fuel;
• operating on liquid fuel.

The design of the furnaces is made of brick, metal or a combination of these materials (iron casing and firebox made of refractory bricks). Brick stoves have better heat transfer, take longer to cool down, heat up more evenly and are safer than metal ones. But they take up more space. If the garage is small, metal mobile ovens are built. All designs require compliance safety rules and equipping the garage with fire fighting equipment

1. non-combustible foundation;
2. insulation materials on the walls and in the place where the chimney pipe passes;
3. screen - reflector;
4. good room ventilation.

For stoves operating on solid fuel, it is additionally necessary to equip a firewood shed or a place for storing coal, sawdust or fuel briquettes.

Brick ovens for the garage

Such stoves operate on wood, coal, sawdust or briquettes. Fuel is inexpensive, stoves are very durable, and combustion products can be used in the garden. Garage brick kiln requires:

• refractory brick;
• oven clay;
• fine sifted sand;
• cement;
• containers for mixing the solution;
• shovel;
• tools for masonry and jointing;
• Bulgarian;
• sandpaper and file;
• roulette;
• level;
• plumb lines;
• waterproofing;
• fittings;
• plastic metal wire;
• door for the firebox (ash pan);
• chimney valve.

The clay mortar is prepared in advance, and the bricks are dipped into water immediately before laying, so that during the laying process they do not take excess liquid from the clay and dry it out, which will make the mortar unsuitable for masonry!

The simplest brick oven for a garage with direct-flow modules

The stove is small in size, the masonry is very simple, without cutting bricks or tying them up. Disadvantages: the absence of a grate makes cleaning the stove more difficult; the draft is regulated only by the gap size of the open combustion door.

The foundation will be a sheet of thick steel laid on the floor covering. Before work, it is necessary to prepare a clay solution, drill several holes in the combustion door for oxygen access, and make sure that the surface on which we will be laying is horizontal.

First two rows We lay the bricks horizontally. IN third We begin to form the walls of the firebox and install the door. We fasten it using metal fastening plates and wire, securing it to the door and clamping it between the brick rows.

WITH rows three to six We lay out the chamber where we will put firewood. We close the door, completely securing it between the bricks.

Important! We check each laid out row for possible distortions. To do this, we use plumb lines, a tape measure and a level. Numbering the rows will help you avoid confusion in the process and prevent mistakes.

Important! If you want the stove to not only heat the room, but also decorate it, then between the rows of brickwork, on the outside, you need to lay thin wooden slats of the same thickness. This will allow you to make a neat jointing. We remove the slats as the solution “sets”.

Eighth row we lay out the bricks “flat”, creating a kind of expansion.

In the next ( ninth) row we again place the bricks on the edge.

And again we make a narrowing, laying it “flat” ( tenth row). In the eleventh row We place the bricks on edge. In this case, one brick must be installed across the hole.

We lay out subsequent rows in the same way, repeating the alternation of laying bricks flat and “on edge”.

To connect the stove to the chimney, it is necessary to narrow the chimney, leaving a hole for the metal pipe. We cover all cracks and voids with a solution of oven clay and insulate them with insulating materials (mineral wool).

Before lighting a fire in the stove and heating the garage, be sure to wait until the solution has completely dried. We check the draft by burning a small amount of paper or rags in the firebox.

In addition to the stove, we install a firewood shed so that the firewood and coal are protected from moisture, precipitation and theft. The firewood box can be made from curved metal rods, a leather basket, wooden floors, etc.

Liquid fuel means oil (machine oil, stove oil, etc.), diesel fuel or “waste oil”—petroleum refining products formed during their operation. Every garage accumulates similar products that are not always disposed of correctly. Car owners often accumulate them in cans in the summer and heat their garages with this substance in the winter.

Both parts of the chamber must fit tightly and hermetically into each other.

This part of the oven can be done by cutting out the necessary parts from sheet metal and bending it or using a pipe/gas cylinder. Steel thickness 4 mm. The legs of the furnace are welded metal corners or another profile.

For burners We use a pipe in which we drill about fifty holes. We connect it to the upper part of the lower tank by welding.

Upper reservoir We make it from 6 mm steel. The technology is similar with the difference that this part is non-separable. To increase heat transfer, you can weld a set of small metal plates or fittings to the structure.

The upper tank is made of 6 mm steel

To remove smoke, we weld a short piece of pipe (diameter about 100-120 mm). We will connect the chimney to this “glass” with clamps.

We install the chimney itself inclined, with an angle of 45 degrees. The length of the chimney from its upper part to the floor level is 4-7 meters.

Modification of a furnace for a garage during development

To heat the garage space more quickly and evenly, you can install a fan and direct the air flow to the operating furnace.

When operating, you must follow safety rules, check elements for defects and beware of water getting into the fuel.