As you know, soil has the ability to maintain a constant temperature, for example, when the air temperature is about zero degrees, the soil temperature is about 10 degrees Celsius. Often this natural phenomenon is used in the construction of greenhouses, which are called earthen or in-ground. Next, we will look at what features earthen greenhouses have and how they are built.

Features of earthen greenhouses

Device

To take advantage of the heat of the soil, it must still be buried below ground level. Of course, the soil temperature will not be enough to, for example, grow peppers or tomatoes in winter, however, heating it with artificial devices will be much easier.

Most in-ground greenhouses are equipped with racks or shelves on which crops are grown until they can receive the necessary amount of solar heat and light in the open ground. At the same time, boxes for seedlings, potting soil and tools can be stored under these shelves.

The underground parts of the walls of such greenhouses can go deep into 1.5m, and aboveground - up to 1 meter in height, however, most often the walls are buried at 0.9-1.2m, this allows the tops of the racks to reach the bottom of the covering.

Peculiarities

Compared to other types of greenhouses, construction will be quite expensive, since you will have to dig a pit and build a concrete foundation for the walls that can withstand soil pressure. However, if the foundation is insulated, then heating costs will be significantly reduced in the future. You should also keep in mind that a greenhouse buried in the ground requires steps at the entrance, and this is also a certain cost.

In-ground greenhouses require good drainage, so before you begin construction, you need to make sure that the design you choose can accommodate drainage without much effort. If electricity is installed in the greenhouse, then a sump pump can be a solution to the problem, however, natural drainage will require much less cost.

If the site where you are going to build a greenhouse has a slope from north to south, then you can make a semi-submersible structure. In this case, the back wall of the greenhouse should be located at ground level and consist of cast-in-place concrete or concrete blocks.

The front wall should be completely glass, in this way the natural landscape will be used to protect and insulate the plants. Working in buried greenhouses is quite convenient, since you can stand at full height.

Construction of an in-depth greenhouse

Choosing a place to build a greenhouse

When choosing a location, there are three main points to consider:

• Wind direction. If gusty cold winds prevail in your area, then you need to take care of additional protection. This also means additional costs, but in return you will save on heating. A fence can serve as additional protection.
• Light. It is extremely important that the greenhouse receives the maximum amount of light throughout the daylight hours. This will ensure efficient crop growth.
• Accessibility to construction. If the greenhouse is being built for long and constant use, then convenient access to it is simply necessary.

Note! The additional fence should not be too close to the greenhouse. If the height of the ridge is, for example, 2.5 m, then the distance between the greenhouse and the fence should be at least 8 m. This is due to the fact that the wind flow that encounters an obstacle goes up and can cool the structure.

Construction of a gable earthen greenhouse

As an example, let’s consider the building, since it is the most versatile and suitable even for the harshest climate. In such a greenhouse you can grow not only garden crops, but also garden crops.

Of course, this example does not apply to economy class, but in essence it is a very economical and convenient structure that can serve you for many years.

This greenhouse includes two rooms:

• Work area;
• Greenhouse;
• Tambour.

In the vestibule you can place a heating boiler and a control unit, which is responsible for watering, ventilation and lighting. The vestibule room must be at least one and a half meters long. It is advisable to cover its roof with a non-transparent material.

In the photo - a brick gable earthen greenhouse, built with your own hands

In addition to the control unit, it is necessary to provide a place in which equipment, earth mixtures and other necessary materials and items will be stored. The walls, as mentioned above, will be built of brick, and mineral wool can be used as a heat insulator.

Note! Soil sampling in a pit for a greenhouse should be done no higher than the freezing level of the soil. As a rule, it is 80-90 cm deep. This also applies to pouring the foundation.

The instructions are as follows:

• First of all, a pit of a certain size is dug and a strip foundation is made, which is poured 80 cm deep.
• Then the walls are built in one brick, respectively, the thickness is 25 cm. The windows are mounted 60 cm above the level. For good natural light, the width between windows should be 2-3 bricks, i.e. up to 75 cm.
• Next, the roof is erected. This project provides for a gable roof, which ensures natural and free flow of water. Its angle of inclination should be about 25 degrees.

The strapping bars are installed from below on the roofing felt. The strapping and ridge beams should be secured using rafters. For the roof, double glass with a minimum thickness of 3 mm is used; you can also use polycarbonate, the price of which is lower than glass.

Advice! To protect the walls, it is advisable to use a galvanized canopy, which is installed at a distance of 8-10 cm from the plane of the wall.

Greenhouses in the ground of this type can last at least fifteen years.

Advice! Greenhouse frames must be equipped with transoms. An alternative is supply ventilation valves.

Construction of a lean-to earthen greenhouse

If the construction of the above-described structure is too expensive for you, then you can build a more budget-friendly version of the greenhouse. Its frame will be made of three rows of wooden posts.

The design is as follows:

• First of all, a pit is dug.
• Then the racks are installed. The length of the pillars located near the northern wall should be 150 cm, the length of the middle row posts should be 170 cm, and the height near the southern wall should be 90 cm.
• The outer rows must be sheathed with slabs along the entire length of the racks. The racks of the middle row are sheathed with slabs only to the height of the ridge. Thus, a notch with a depth of 90 cm is made. This notch should be filled with biofuel to a depth of 70 cm, and a 10-15 cm layer of earth should be poured on top.
• The walls on the north and south sides should be covered with earth. The slope, which is directed to the south, must be covered with greenhouse frames.

Advice! To prevent heat loss through the roof, it is worth throwing mats over the glass at night - reeds, straw, made of film or paper.

If good biofuel is used, then such a greenhouse can be used starting in March, for example, growing lettuce, onions, Chinese cabbage, etc.

Conclusion

The main advantage of in-depth greenhouses is the use of soil as a natural insulation material. This allows you to significantly save on heating the greenhouse. As a result, such greenhouses are very popular among both amateur gardeners and professionals.

For more information on this topic, watch the video in this article.

A trench greenhouse is a year-round structure in which you can grow seedlings, flowers and vegetables, and berries. This greenhouse can also be used as a winter greenhouse for container and indoor plants. This article is about how to install an energy-efficient trench greenhouse on your property with your own hands.

A trench greenhouse is a structure with solid walls, buried to the depth of soil freezing. This feature allows you to use the heat accumulated in the soil over several cold months.

The walls of the greenhouse are made of heat-intensive materials and are insulated from the outside to avoid cooling from the upper freezing layers of the soil. Additionally, the soil is protected from freezing using an insulated blind area around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse.

The roof can be of any shape - arched, gable or pitched. It is covered in two layers with insulation of the air space between them or frames with double glazing. When the greenhouse is oriented from west to east, the northern slope of the roof can be sewn tightly to reduce heat loss.

The entrance to the greenhouse is located at the end and is equipped with an insulated vestibule. To descend into the greenhouse, a staircase is made in the vestibule. You can also place heating equipment or a storage room for storing tools and planting material - tubers, cuttings and bulbs.

The recessed greenhouse is equipped with a forced supply and exhaust ventilation system. For this purpose, plastic pipes and built-in fans are used. When using glazed frames, some of them can be made to open - in the summer this will help avoid overheating.

In the southern regions, in a trench greenhouse in winter the temperature does not drop below zero even without additional heating. In temperate latitudes, during frosts it needs to be heated. A stove, electric heaters or a water boiler can be used as a heating device.

Stove heating of a trench greenhouse

Effective heating can be achieved by laying a heating cable or water heating pipes in the ground. The heated soil is capable of releasing heat into the greenhouse space for a long time and warming the air.

Plants in a trench greenhouse can be placed either on beds or on racks. The beds are made of brick or concrete blocks - the walls are an additional heat accumulator. The height of the beds is made within 0.8-1.2 m so that the plants receive enough sunlight. Fill with organic components to get effect and additional heating.

When growing plants on shelves, it is better to concrete the floor, having previously laid waterproofing and insulation boards underneath it. In this case, it is better to place additional heating under the shelving.

Prices for water heated floors

Water heated floor mat with bosses

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other greenhouse, the trench design has its advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of trench greenhouses:

• fast warm-up;
• long-term heat retention;
• low heating costs;
• Possibility of year-round use;
• robust and reliable design.

Disadvantages of the standard design:

• poor natural ventilation;
• possibility of rapid overheating in bright sun;
• insufficient lighting;
• high initial construction costs;
• If the groundwater level is high, a drainage system will be required.

The operational shortcomings of trench greenhouses can be eliminated with the use of minor modifications:

• ventilation is forced, increasing its efficiency;
• Curtaining or spraying the roof with shading solutions helps prevent overheating;
• insufficient lighting is combated with the help of additional lighting and reflective wall coverings;
• To prevent flooding by spring groundwater, the floor in the greenhouse is concreted over a layer of waterproofing, and the walls are also waterproofed on both sides.

Therefore, the only serious drawback of trench greenhouses is its high cost, which can be somewhat reduced through the use of inexpensive building materials and self-construction. Below is a description of two models of trench greenhouses made of different materials, as well as step-by-step instructions for constructing them yourself.

Note! If the groundwater level is constantly high, constructing a trench greenhouse may be prohibitively expensive. In this case, it is better to prefer another greenhouse design, for example.

How to choose a site for a greenhouse

For a trench greenhouse, choose a flat area, not shaded by buildings and trees. The sun is the main source of heat energy in recessed greenhouses, so it is important to find the most open location possible. On the north side, wind protection is desirable - a building, a high blank fence, a hedge.

The orientation of the greenhouse relative to the cardinal points depends on the main purpose. If you plan to use a trench greenhouse year-round, it is better to position it from north to south, cover the northern side with an insulated vestibule, and make the southern gable transparent. In such a greenhouse it will be a little cooler in winter, but in summer the plants will not burn.

When using a greenhouse mainly in the cold season, it is better to orient it from west to east. The northern slope of the roof is made solid and insulated, and the southern slope is made transparent. The northern wall and roof slope are additionally sheathed with reflective material or painted white. This will allow you to make maximum use of the sun's energy.

Trench greenhouse made of foam concrete blocks

Concrete blocks are a popular building material; they have low weight and load on the ground, high thermal insulation ability, and are easy to lay and process. The greenhouse presented in the step-by-step instructions is oriented from north to south, with a vestibule with a staircase attached to it on the north side. For additional heating during the winter months, a stove-stove is installed in the greenhouse.

Step 1. Mark the selected area using stakes and twine. The dimensions of the site for the pit should be larger than the dimensions of the greenhouse by 30-40 cm on each side for ease of construction, installation of insulation and waterproofing. Check the lengths of the sides and compare the diagonals to avoid distortions.

Step 2. Dig a pit for the greenhouse according to the markings made. This can be done either manually or using special equipment. On loose soils, the walls are temporarily reinforced with slate sheets or board panels.

The depth of the pit should be 20-30 cm greater than the soil freezing depth. The average soil freezing depth in different regions is shown in Table 1.

Table 1. Maximum depth of soil freezing in different regions.

City	Maximum depth of soil freezing, m
Novosibirsk	2,4
Tyumen, Chelyabinsk	2,3
Arkhangelsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm	2,1
Samara	2,0
Vologda, Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Yaroslavl	1,9
Ryazan	1,8
Saratov	1,6
Moscow, Orel	1,5
Kursk	1,4
Pskov, St. Petersburg	1,3
Rostov-on-Don, Volgograd	0,9
Krasnodar	0,8

Step 3. At the bottom of the pit, the foundation is marked according to the size of the future greenhouse. Install formwork from boards with a height of 20-30 cm and a width equal to the total width of the blocks and insulation. The formwork is reinforced with a corrugated metal rod in two rows. The foundation is poured with M200 concrete and left to gain strength for 2-3 weeks, covered with polyethylene.

Step 4. Two layers of roofing material are laid on the foundation using a cement-sand mortar, and at the same time the surface is leveled using a level. After the mortar has set, they begin laying the first row of foam blocks on the cement-sand mortar. The thickness of the seam is no more than 10 mm. The blocks are adjusted using a rubber hammer, checking that the masonry is horizontal and level.

Step 5. The next two or three rows of blocks are placed on a special glue for foam concrete with ligation of 1/2 or 1/3 of the block. The glue is applied in a thin layer using a notched trowel to all surfaces to be glued, the excess is immediately removed and the cracks in the masonry are sealed with it. Every 3-4 rows the masonry is reinforced using masonry mesh or special hollow blocks with reinforcement laid inside. At the third or fourth level from the southern end of the greenhouse, ventilation pipes in metal sleeves are laid.

Step 6. On the north side of the greenhouse, a vestibule made of blocks is built using the same masonry technology. The dimensions of the vestibule are arbitrary and depend on what will be placed there - only the entrance or utility rooms.

Step 7 After laying the last row, strapping beams are laid around the perimeter of the walls. It is attached to anchors pre-fixed in the top row blocks using cement mortar. The timber is aligned along the outer edge of the walls.

Step 8 The outer side of the walls is treated with bitumen or polymer waterproofing in 2-3 layers, then sheathed with sheets of foam plastic. The thickness of the insulation depends on the region and averages 50-100 mm. Polystyrene foam is attached with glue; you can use polymer or cement-based. After the glue has dried, backfill the soil.

Step 9 Rafters are mounted from bars 50x70 or 50x100 mm. The rafter legs are secured by inserting into the strapping and ridge beams. Grooves for polycarbonate sheets are made in advance in the ridge beam. There are also grooves in the rafters for the shrouds.

Step 10 Wooden slats are laid along pre-made grooves. They should lie flush with the rafters. After installation, all wooden structural elements are impregnated with an antiseptic in two or three layers.

Step 11 The first layer of polycarbonate 4 or 6 mm thick is laid on the prepared slopes. When laying, it is important to observe the direction of the internal channels - condensate should flow freely through them.

The upper ends of the sheets are sealed with a special tape, coated with silicone sealant and inserted into the grooves in the ridge beam. The lower ends are sealed with water-permeable sealant or agrofibre. The sheets are fastened along pre-drilled holes through wooden slats 16 mm thick.

First layer of polycarbonate and mounting strips

A second layer of polycarbonate will later be laid on these slats. A gap of 16 mm is optimal for heat retention.

Step 12 Mount a second layer of polycarbonate 6 or 8 mm thick on the guide rails. The upper ends of the sheets are sealed using tape and seated in the grooves in the ridge beam using silicone sealant.

The sheets are attached to the slats using special self-tapping screws for polycarbonate with. For longitudinal connection, a connecting profile is used.

Step 13 The free ends of the rails and guide rails are trimmed flush with the polycarbonate sheets. To seal the ends and edges of the sheets, as well as the air gap between them, use a galvanized plasterboard profile of a suitable width. The profile is attached with self-tapping screws to the ends of the slats.

Step 14 The ridge beam is also finished with a galvanized profile, coating all joints with silicone sealant to completely seal the roof.

Step 15 A pitched roof is laid over the vestibule and it is equipped with an opening hatch. The roof and hatch are insulated with foam plastic.

Inside the vestibule a staircase is made of wood or concrete. For concrete stairs, formwork is made from boards, the steps are reinforced with masonry mesh.

Step 16 Inside the greenhouse, closer to the vestibule, a heating stove is installed (necessarily on a solid base - a concrete slab, bricks or paving slabs). The chimney is made from a sandwich pipe through the wall.

When installing an air heating system instead of a furnace, plastic pipes are laid in the ground. They are placed along the perimeter of future beds or under shelving. A fan heater is connected to the pipes.

Step 17 A protective brick well is laid around the outer chimney. It is better to equip the pipe itself with an umbrella and a spark arrester so that sparks do not burn through the polycarbonate. The vestibule roof is covered with rolled roofing material or linoleum scraps.

After installation is complete, you can begin laying beds or installing shelving. Such a trench greenhouse is capable of maintaining the temperature in the positive range when the outside air temperature drops to -10°C without heating.

When the temperature drops below -10°C, it is necessary to light the stove once a day early in the morning. During the day, the heat inside is maintained due to heating by the sun, and in the evening and at night - due to heat transfer from the walls and ground. In such a greenhouse, potted and container plants that require high humidity and a difference in day and night temperatures feel great in winter.

Growing seedlings and vegetables in a greenhouse has its obvious advantages, but not all gardeners like polycarbonate and film structures, which, according to some, are not attractive enough. And for those who care not only about functionality, but also about beauty, there are.

Prices for foam concrete blocks

foam concrete blocks

Trench greenhouse made of thermoblocks

Thermoblocks are permanent formwork made of polystyrene, which has sufficient rigidity and low thermal conductivity. The blocks are installed on vertically fixed reinforcement in the form of a wall and filled with concrete. Construction from thermoblocks is carried out quite quickly, and the walls are durable and well insulated.

The greenhouse shown in the illustrations is oriented from west to east and has a gable roof with varying sizes of slopes. The northern slope is covered with OSB sheets and soft tiles, the southern one is made of 10 mm cellular polycarbonate. To improve illumination in the greenhouse, additional lighting with HPS lamps is provided.

Step 1. Mark the area and dig a pit for the greenhouse using the technology described above.

Step 2. The formwork is installed under the foundation and reinforced using a corrugated rod Ø12-14 mm. The reinforcement is placed in two horizontal rows at the level of the foundation and installed vertically to the height of the walls. The intersections of the reinforcement are knitted using annealed wire. The foundation is poured with concrete and left for 15-25 days to gain strength.

Step 3. The foundation is treated with liquid bitumen waterproofing in several layers. Fill the bottom of the trench with sand and level it.

Step 4. The first row of thermal blocks is installed and filled with concrete. When cracks appear, the joints of the blocks are coated with cement mortar.

Step 5. Every three rows it is necessary to perform horizontal reinforcement using corrugated rods. They are placed on special guides in thermoblocks.

Step 6. Upon reaching the ground level, the outer side of the masonry is wrapped with rolled waterproofing, covered with sheets of flat slate and backfilled with soil.

Step 7 The laying of the above-ground part of the walls continues using the same technology. Perform door and window openings.

An underground greenhouse is considered one of the most rational options for constructing a permanent greenhouse. It is built like a thermos and has many advantages. In order for a building to have all its advantages, it is necessary to know the features of its construction.

Advantages and disadvantages of an underground greenhouse

Do-it-yourself underground greenhouses have the following advantages of their construction:

• year-round use of the structure;
• no dependence on weather;
• high efficiency;
• efficient use of solar energy (used for additional heating of the building);
• in such a design it is possible to grow even exotic crops for a particular area;
• durability and reliability;
• excellent light transmission parameters of the roof;
• good thermal insulation properties of the room;
• versatility.

A greenhouse in the ground has these advantages, both without heating and with it.

The ruined type of greenhouse has only two negative aspects: the rather high labor intensity of production, as well as the need for a reliable ventilation system in the construction. But if you approach the work correctly, then these design disadvantages will not cause much trouble.

Video “Greenhouse-dugout for year-round gardening”

In this video you will learn how to build a dugout greenhouse for year-round gardening.

Design Features

An underground greenhouse is a structure that is partially located in the ground. Thanks to this design, a thermos effect occurs. It appears if the greenhouse has been buried at least 1 m into the ground. In this case, the temperature inside such a dugout will be in the range of +3...+14 °C.

If you deepen the building to 2.2–2.4 m, then throughout the year the temperature inside will remain at almost the same level. At the same time, the main task in such buildings is to maintain the temperature and organize watering.

If you are going to make an underground greenhouse, then you need to correctly calculate the level of depth in the ground. This parameter is determined based on the depth of groundwater, as well as winter freezing. Based on these parameters, you can easily understand whether this type of greenhouse is rational. In swampy areas, as well as with close groundwater, the in-depth version of greenhouses is not used.

It is worth noting that the soil freezing factor has a major influence on plant growing. Beds with crops in such structures should be located below the level of seasonal freezing present in the region. Therefore, the lower level of the recess should be between the groundwater level and soil freezing.

Today there are two types of earthen greenhouses:

• underground. In this case, a depth is selected that allows the plant beds to be maintained completely underground. Inside the greenhouse there should be a staircase at the entrance wall, as well as passages between areas (where a certain group of plants are grown) along which a person can move without bending;
• recessed. Here, maintenance of the structure is carried out without a ladder, from the surface of the soil. This will lift the roof.

Depending on the characteristics of the relief and the available area, a do-it-yourself underground greenhouse can be horizontal (the height of all walls is the same) and inclined. Such greenhouses can be trench-type (considerable length with minimal width) or pit-type in terms of space occupied.

A greenhouse in the ground can be used for growing fruits, berries, mushrooms, vegetables, seedlings and flowers. Thanks to its design features, such a greenhouse can be placed in Siberia or any other region of our country.

How to make it yourself

A recessed greenhouse is constructed with your own hands in several stages. To build it you will need the following tools:

• perforator;
• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• shovel;
• construction mixer and vibrator for concrete;
• electric drill;
• hacksaw, knife and scissors;
• Master OK;
• putty knife;
• paint brush;
• level, plumb line and tape measure.

The Scottish (buried) type of greenhouse begins with digging a pit.

Pit

To create a greenhouse effect inside the greenhouse, the depth of the pit should be 1.9–2.2 (2.5) m. The width of the structure should not be more than 4.8–5.2 m. If the structure is made wide, then the insolation parameters will deteriorate , and the need for heating will also increase.

The length is determined depending on the free space available on the site for construction. How much space you allocate for the greenhouse will be its length.

It is recommended to orient the excavation pit in the east-west direction. The sides of the pit need to be leveled as much as possible. This is necessary to make quality walls. Each side of the structure must be properly leveled to avoid problems with the organization of the roof.

Foundation and walls

When you have dug a foundation pit for your greenhouse, you can begin pouring the foundation. Usually the base is poured around the perimeter of the structure and looks like a tape. When creating this type of foundation, reinforced concrete should be used. The optimal base thickness is 30–50 cm (depending on the size of the greenhouse). As a result, the floor in the center of the building remains earthen.

The side walls can be built from wood, thermal blocks from polystyrene foam or blocks made from cellular concrete. These materials have excellent thermal insulation parameters and are light in weight.

If gardening is year-round, then the level of the walls should be chosen so that they rise above the snow cover by at least 0.5 m. The optimal height of the walls for such structures is determined individually for each region.

Roof installation

To make a roof in a recessed greenhouse, you need to install supports in the center of the building. Wooden beams will be laid on them and the walls. A ridge beam should be installed in the center of the building. After this, transverse ribs are mounted from the beams. Cellular polycarbonate sheets are installed on the resulting frame.

The covering material is fixed on the beams using special thermal washers equipped with rubber seals. When installing, your hand must be steady, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. To improve the thermal insulation of a greenhouse in cold regions, the roof should be made of two layers of polycarbonate.

Insulation and heating

To insulate a recessed greenhouse, the surface of the walls should be covered with a waterproofing film. Thermal insulation is already installed on top of it. Expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is most often used as insulation. You can also use special polymer thermal insulation films equipped with a layer of foil. They allow you to accumulate heat indoors by reflecting the sun's rays. If it is necessary to grow heat-loving plants, a heated floor is equipped.

This is how a buried greenhouse is built. If constructed correctly, such a building will have all the advantages described above. After completion of construction, the greenhouse can be immediately used for its intended purpose.

For personal needs or as a business in cold regions, you can. Its main advantage is a constant positive temperature even in winter. The construction of such a structure will not be difficult, and the materials for construction can be available at hand.

Conventional greenhouses are designed in such a way that temperature changes are felt inside. But greenhouses in the ground work differently. Due to the recessed construction, the walls act like a thermos. This system allows you to significantly save on heating and electricity.

Underground greenhouses are great for more than just growing annual crops. You can plant perennial plants. This greenhouse is also great for planting trees and bushes.

There is a myth that due to the small height and recessed walls, the seedlings inside the greenhouse do not receive enough sunlight. But this is not true. The roof allows enough sunlight to penetrate for good plant growth. The roof area itself is small, so there is less heat loss.

2 types of earthen greenhouses:

1. Underground. The walls are completely underground. Such greenhouses are quite large and perennial crops and trees are grown in them. The depth of the structure depends on the occurrence of groundwater.
2. Recessed. In this case, only a part of the wall of 40-60 cm goes underground. At the same time, the above-ground part reaches 110 cm. The construction is quite simple, but it will retain much less heat.

The roofs of earthen greenhouses are quite flat. This can be a nuisance in winter. Such a greenhouse should be regularly cleaned of precipitation so that the structure does not collapse. But this has its plus. This building is resistant to strong winds.

Pros and cons of an underground greenhouse for year-round gardening

Before building an underground greenhouse, you should think it over and evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of year-round gardening. To begin with, a gardener should know that both a beginner and an experienced gardener can grow crops. In addition, crops can be grown both in Ukraine with a temperate climate, and in Siberia with serious frosts.

Advantages of an underground greenhouse:

1. Even without heating in winter, the thermos greenhouse will maintain a positive temperature. It will be no lower than 10 degrees.
2. In summer, vegetables are reliably protected from ultraviolet radiation.
3. Availability of the building. A recessed greenhouse does not require large financial investments. This is the most budget option.
4. A year-round greenhouse is an ideal option for organizing a business all year round in Russia.

To build a reliable structure you will need to build a strong frame. Also, do not forget about the foundation, which will ensure the durability of the building. But the main feature of underground greenhouses is the air space under the film or polycarbonate.

It is best to cover the thermos greenhouse with polycarbonate. It is flexible, durable, UV-resistant, heat-retaining and durable. You can use glass, but then the plants will suffer from an excess of solar energy.

But such greenhouses also have disadvantages. These include difficulties during the construction of a building. It is also necessary to take care of ventilation. And caring for plants in a thermos greenhouse can be difficult.

Features of the construction of an underground greenhouse

The main parameter that must be taken into account during construction is the depth of the building. Here it is necessary to take into account the location of groundwater and its winter freezing. If the waters do not flow deeply, then the construction of a winter greenhouse is very doubtful. The recessed greenhouse should not reach the main groundwater table. But the beds must be placed below the freezing level of underground sources in winter.

The winter greenhouse is buried between groundwater and its freezing level.

It is worth noting that there are 2 types of construction: recessed and underground. The second option involves equipping stairs and special passages to gain access to caring for plants. The recessed greenhouse is serviced by the gardener when the roof is raised.

Greenhouses with opening roofs are in demand. Some types of such greenhouses are described in our material:

Types of greenhouses depending on the terrain:

• Horizontal;
• Inclined.

When building a greenhouse with your own hands, it is important to take into account the evenness of the terrain. Horizontal greenhouses have walls of the same height, while inclined greenhouses are built on a slope. In this case, it is important to use solar energy as correctly as possible.

Depending on the area occupied, greenhouses are divided into trench and pit type. The first option is as long as possible with a small width. For a pit greenhouse, you will need to dig a recess of the same size in width and length.

Preparatory work for the construction of a recessed greenhouse

Any construction work involves preparatory work. They include choosing a construction site and directly preparing the soil. The winter greenhouse must be built on the right site.

What to consider when choosing a construction site:

1. Direction of the wind. It is advisable to minimize gusty and cold winds. An underground greenhouse is resistant to strong winds, but if they are constantly present, it is necessary to further strengthen the greenhouse. To do this, you can install a special fence.
2. Illumination of the area. The place where the greenhouse is built should be well lit so that the plants receive maximum light all day long.
3. Ease of maintenance. You need to have constant access to the building, so the greenhouse needs to be built close to your place of residence.

When building a fence for additional protection, you do not need to build it too close to the greenhouse. This figure should be at least 8 cm. This is due to the fact that the wind flow when colliding with the fence is directed upward and can cool the greenhouse.

Do-it-yourself gable and lean-to greenhouse in the ground

You can make a gable greenhouse out of brick with your own hands. This is a reliable structure that will withstand the lowest temperatures. You can plant any crops, trees or seedlings in it. The construction itself may seem quite expensive, but you need to remember about durability and savings on heating, which will quickly pay for the greenhouse.

The foundation should be poured no higher than the freezing level of the soil. The depth is 80-90 cm. Options for a solid foundation for greenhouses are described in the article:

It is necessary to divide such a thermos greenhouse into 3 functional zones: work, greenhouse and vestibule. The vestibule serves as the installation site for climate control systems. The roof in this compartment should not be transparent. The vestibule can also serve as a warehouse for storing tools. This room can be insulated with mineral wool.

The sequence of construction of a gable underground greenhouse:

1. You need to dig a pit and pour the foundation. Filling depth is 80 cm. A strip base is used.
2. Construction of walls in one brick. The thickness of the wall becomes 25 cm. You need to install windows 60 cm above the level. To ensure good natural lighting, the distance between the windows is 2-3 bricks.
3. Roof installation. The gable roof does not allow precipitation to remain on the surface. The optimal roof angle is 25 degrees.

The strapping bars must be mounted from below onto the roofing felt. It is secured with rafters. The covering material can be glass or polycarbonate. The second option is considered the best, since the glass is quite heavy and transmits ultraviolet radiation. At the same time, it is an order of magnitude more expensive than polycarbonate sheets.

The walls must be protected with a galvanized canopy. It is mounted with a distance of 8-10 cm from the wall. The construction is quite durable. It can last at least 15 years.

Underground greenhouses (video)

Often, gardeners build underground greenhouses for year-round cultivation of crops. Even trees that require constant high temperatures can be planted in a thermos greenhouse. This way you can not only organize cultivation for personal needs, but also set up a profitable business. At the same time, thanks to the unique design, the costs of maintaining the greenhouse are insignificant.

Examples of greenhouses underground (photo)

One of the best and most rational options for construction is considered to be an underground greenhouse similar to a thermos.

It implements the idea of ​​preserving the heat of the earth itself. It is no secret that at a certain depth the average temperature almost does not change throughout the year, remaining almost constant there in winter and summer. Using this factor allows you to get huge savings in money spent on heating in winter; such a greenhouse means ease of maintenance and a stable microclimate in its internal space.

Read also:

- Advantages and disadvantages.

– what needs to be taken into account.

How to grow curly strawberries - read.

Tools and materials

Before starting construction of a greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a pit at least 2 m deep - only there the soil has the same temperature throughout the year.

• cement;
• sand;
• shovel;
• container;
• Master OK;
• plaster;
• Styrofoam;
• thermoblocks;
• polycarbonate;
• thermal insulation film;
• protective impregnation for wood;
• nails;
• hammer;
• dye;
• self-tapping screws;
• scotch.

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Greenhouse technology

Underground greenhouses require the preparation of a pit. The deeper the future greenhouse is located, the warmer the structure will be. The temperature practically does not change at a depth of 2-2.5 m from the surface of the earth.

Such a greenhouse can be any length, but the width of the structure should not exceed 5 meters. If this value is exceeded, light reflection and heating will be significantly weaker than necessary for the comfort of plants.

If possible, underground structures should be oriented east-west, in this case one of the sides of the greenhouse will be maximally illuminated by the sun, the reverse side should be carefully insulated using mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Underground structures must have aligned edges, since the foundation will have to be poured, which can be replaced with concrete blocks laid around the perimeter, onto these blocks and the frame of such a recessed type greenhouse will be installed.

After the foundation is ready, you can begin to build the upper part of the structure, which will be made up of thermal blocks installed on a concrete base, they are fixed to a metal frame. The roof on the greenhouse must be installed from polycarbonate; it must be installed on a metal frame with sheathing.

The next stage will be insulation of the structure. After which the inside of the walls should be covered with a thermal insulation film, it will be able to retain heat inside. And in those regions characterized by a particularly cold climate, it is preferable to use thick foil thermal film, strengthening it in a couple of layers. However, such wrapping will need to be used only for the winter. It is advisable that the greenhouse be equipped with heat accumulators, which can be water bottles, since they heat up quickly and cool slowly. You can also put a regular barrel of water. Such a greenhouse can also be heated using a heated floor system - an electric cable located under the soil. It will be important to protect it from damage that can be caused by garden tools during work. This can be done using a regular mesh; you can protect the cable using concrete. can be installed under tiles, and plants can be grown in flowerpots and pots.

To heat the greenhouse, a combined heating method is used, which helps maintain an optimal balance between the temperatures of the ground and air.

However, buried greenhouses, as a rule, are heated in a combined way, in which systems are used to heat the soil and air. It is important to remember that plants will feel comfortable in soil that has a temperature of 25˚C, while the air should have a temperature of 25 to 35˚C, and optimal humidity must be maintained.

The next stage will be the construction of the roof. Polycarbonate will be a universal covering for such a greenhouse. Sheets of this material can be up to 12 meters in length without forming unnecessary joints, which will eliminate the penetration of drafts. Heat loss through the roof can be reduced by double coating of polycarbonate. To do this, you need to use two 4 mm polycarbonate sheets, connecting them using a special profile gasket. In order to achieve snow melting on such a surface, you can install a thermal circuit that will operate on a timer.

The rafter parts must be well treated with protective impregnation. Their connection to each other should be done in half a tree, nailing the jumper so that the distance in the lower part is equal to the limit of 3-5 cm.

The support is assembled from the rafters. Jumpers should be removed from the rafters. Afterwards, a ridge beam should be inserted under the rafters, frontal supports should be installed under it, the height of which will be equal to 88 cm. The outer rafters must be nailed to the ridge beam using nails 20 cm long.

Then, between the flashings and the rafters, it is necessary to install jumpers - on the burs and the front support. Afterwards the roof can be painted using white paint. After the paint has dried, you can begin installing the roof that will cover the greenhouse. Strengthening the polycarbonate to the greenhouse should be done with wood screws; holes should first be drilled in it.

After the above work, a corner made of roofing iron should be installed on the roof along the ridge cap, using a gasket made of high-quality insulation. And at the ends of the structure, the polycarbonate should be left unscrewed until the roof is attached to the corner supports.

The inside of the greenhouse is made completely airtight by sealing the seams of the foundation and the masonry of thermoblocks with polyurethane foam.

The joints of polycarbonate sheets with the roof and with each other must be taped using transparent tape. After the roof can be installed on the greenhouse, it can be secured to the walls using nails and staples. This should be done on both sides.

Afterwards, triangular polycarbonate sheets can be sewn on top of the staples.

It is important to make the greenhouse airtight, without drafts. To do this, seams in the foundation and masonry of thermoblocks should be eliminated using plaster; polyurethane foam can also be used. The roof should also be free of cracks. You can complete it by installing electricity, installing heating devices and automatic watering. The lack of lighting will be filled with LED lamps.

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Design features of the greenhouse

The foundation of a recessed greenhouse must have a block or monolithic strip foundation. The depth for its laying should be 400 mm or more. The recommended cement for the foundation is M300 or M400. Despite all the obvious advantages, such greenhouses also have significant disadvantages, among which are the significant labor costs that are noted during the construction of the structure, as well as the impossibility in areas characterized by high groundwater levels and a high risk of seasonal flooding.

Guide and rack profiles for plasterboard can be used in greenhouse construction in areas characterized by mild winters with little snow. This is due to the qualities of the material, including: strength; ease of installation; light weight; low price; wear resistance.

The structure may have a supporting frame with a gable roof, which has transoms for ventilation. If the greenhouse has a compact size (up to 4 m in length), it is possible to limit it to only one transom, which is preferably made not in the roof surface, but on the wall, which is located on the opposite side of the entrance. Such greenhouses often have vertical posts, a ridge beam and rafters, the material for which is a CD profile with a section of 60x27 for plasterboard. This material can be successfully used in sections for diagonal ties. Horizontal components should be made using a UD profile, which must be of the appropriate size. The step between adjacent sections should be 1000 mm.

Cellular polycarbonate must be laid with an overlap, which can be a maximum of 30 mm, due to the susceptibility of this material to thermal expansion. The holes and seams of the connections to strengthen the plastic to the frame must be treated with sealant, which will help prevent water and dust from entering the internal space of the honeycomb material.

The main disadvantage of this design is that the profile does not cope well with the load in the form of a snow cap. Therefore, such a roof should be strengthened with additional support pillars.

In order for such a design to meet all reliability requirements, it is recommended to use a reinforced profile as the material that will form the basis of the frame, the thickness of which should be 0.6 mm or higher. It is excellent for making corner posts and trim contours. To save money, all other frame elements can be made from a thinner profile, the thickness of which can be 0.5 mm.