Printed circuit board - This is a dielectric base, on the surface and in the amount of which conductive tracks are applied in accordance with the electrical circuit. The printed circuit board is designed for mechanical mounting and electrical connection with each other by soldering the conclusions installed on it electronic and electrical products.

Operations for cutting a billet from a fiberglass, drilling of holes and etching the printed circuit board to obtain current-carrying tracks regardless of the method of applying a picture on the printed circuit board are performed by the same technology.

Manual application method
Tracks of printed circuit board

Preparation of template

The paper on which the printed circuit board is drawn is usually thin and for more accurate drilling of the holes, especially in the case of using a manual self-made drill, so that the drill does not learn to the side, it is required to make it more dense. To do this, glue the pattern of the printed circuit board on more dense paper or a thin dense cardboard with the help of any glue, such as PVA or moment.

Cutting blanks

The billet of the foil fiberglass of the appropriate size is selected, the printed circuit board is applied to the workpiece and is described around the perimeter with a marker, a soft simple pencil or risks with a sharp object.

Next, the fibercstolite is cut according to the applied lines with scissors for metal or cut off with a metal with a metal. Cut with scissors faster, and no dust. But it is necessary to take into account that when cutting with scissors, the glasskestolit is very bent, which the strength of the coppe foil deteriorates somewhat and if the elements are required, the tracks can be compressed. Therefore, if the board is large and with very thin tracks, it is better to cut off with the help of a handcraft for metal.

A printed circuit board pattern is glued on the cut blank using glue moment, four drops of which are applied in the corners of the workpiece.

Since glue is captured in just a few minutes, you can immediately begin drilling holes under radio components.

Drilling holes

Drilling holes is best with the help of a special mini drilling machine with a carbide drill with a diameter of 0.7-0.8 mm. If there is no mini boring machine in the presence, then you can drill holes with a low-power drill with a simple drill. But when working a universal manual drill, the number of broken drills will depend on the hardness of your hand. One drill is definitely not bypassed.

If the drill is not able to clamp, then it is possible to wrap its shank with several layers of paper or one layer of the emery skirt. It is possible to wind the tight turn to the tweet of a thin metal wire to the shank.

After the end of the drilling is checked, all the holes are drilled. It is clearly visible if you look at the printed circuit board on the lumen. As can be seen, no missed holes.

Application of topographic pattern

In order for the foil places on the fiberglass, which will be conductive tracks, protect when etching from destruction, they must be covered with a mask resistant to dissolution in aqueous solution. For the convenience of drawing tracks, they are better to pre-stand with a soft simple pencil or marker.

Before applying markup, you must definitely remove the traces of the glue, which was glued in the printed circuit board. Since the glue does not harde it hard, it can be easily removed by pulling your finger. The foil surface is also necessary to degrease with a vehicle with any means, such as acetone or white alcohol (so called purified gasoline), can and any detergent For washing dishes, for example Ferry.

After marking tracks of the printed circuit board, you can proceed to apply their drawing. For drawing tracks, any waterproof enamel is well suited, for example, alkyd enamel of the PF series, diluted to suitable consistency with a solvent White alcohol. Draw tracks by different tools - glass or metal raysfededer, medical needle and even toothpick. In this article I will tell you how to draw tracks printed circuit board Using a drawing raysfededer and balletics, which are designed for drawing on paper ink.

Previously, there were no computers and all drawings were drawn by simple pencils on Watman and then translated into a tracing in a tracker with a copy of copies.

Drawing patterns start with contact pads that are painted by a ballet. To do this, you need to adjust the gap of sliding sponges of the Ballerinka Rysfeheder to the desired line width and to set the circle diameter to perform adjustment with the second screw with a raysfededer from the axis of rotation.

Further, the ballerica raysfeder for a length of 5-10 mm is filled with paint brushes. To apply a protective layer on a printed circuit board, the paint of the PF or GF brand is best suited, as it slowly dries and allows you to safely work. The paint of the brand of the NC can also be applied, but it is difficult to work with it, as it dries quickly. The paint should be good and not spread. Before drawing the beauty you need to dissolve to a liquid consistency, adding a suitable solvent into it with intense stirring and trying to draw on the string of fiberglass. To work with the paint it is more convenient to pour it into a vial from a manicure varnish, in the twist of which a brush is installed, resistant to solvents.

After adjusting the ballerica raysfededer and obtain the required lines parameters, you can proceed to apply contact pads. For this, the sharp part of the axis is inserted into the hole and the base of the ballerina turns into a circle.

For proper setting The raysfedera and the desired consistency of paint around the holes on the printed circuit board are the circumference of the perfect round shape. When the Ballerinka begins to draw badly, the remnants of refrigerated paint and the raysfededer are removed from the closure of the raysfeder. To distinguish all the holes on this printed circle circle, you needed only two refills of the raysfeneder and no more than two minutes of time.

When round contact pads are drawn on the board, you can start drawing the conductive tracks using a manual raysfededer. Preparation and adjustment of the manual raisfeceder does not differ from the preparation of the balletics.

The only thing that will optionally need is a flat ruler, with a piece of rubber with glued on one of its sides, with a thickness of 2.5-3 mm, so that the ruler does not slide when working and the fiberglass, without touching the line, could freely go under it. It is best suited as a ruler wooden triangle, it is stable and at the same time can serve when drawing a printed circuit board for hand.

In order for the circuit board when drawing tracks does not slide, it is desirable to place it on the sandpaper sheet, which is two rounded paper sides of the elaborate sheet.

If, when painting tracks and circles, they sparred, then you should not make any measures. You need to give paint on the printed circuit board to dry up to the state when it will not be packed when touched and with the help of the knife is the unnecessary piece of the pattern. In order for the paint faster to dry the fee, you need to be located in a warm place, for example, in winter on the heating battery. IN summer time of the year - under the rays of the sun.

When the picture on the printed circuit board is fully applied and fixed all defects can be moved to its etching.

Printing Figure Technology
Using a laser printer

When printing on a laser printer, a transfer takes place due to electrostatics formed by toner image with a photo of a drum on which laser ray Drew an image, on paper media. Toner is held on paper, keeping the image, only at the expense of electrostatics. To secure toner, the paper rolled between rollers, one of which is a heat supply heated to a temperature of 180-220 ° C. Toner melts and penetrates the paper texture. After cooling, the toner hardens and is firmly held on paper. If the paper is heated again to 180-220 ° C, the toner will again become liquid. This is a toner property and is used to transfer the image of current-carrying tracks to the printed circuit board at home.

After the file with a picture of the printed circuit board is ready, you must print it with a laser printer on a paper medium. Note, the image of the circuit board pattern for this technology should be viewed from the part side of the details! The inkjet printer is not suitable for these purposes, as it works on another principle.

Preparation of a paper template for transferring pictures on a printed circuit board

If you print a picture of a printed circuit board on ordinary paper for office equipment, then due to the porous structure, the toner will deeply penetrate into the body of the paper and when the toner is transferred to the printed circuit board, most of it will remain in paper. In addition, there will be difficulties with the removal of paper from the printed circuit board. We'll have to warm it up for a long time. Therefore, paper that does not have a porous structure, for example, a photographic paper, a substrate from self-adhesive films and labels, cottage, pages from glossy magazines are needed to prepare a photo shop.

As a paper for printing the pattern of printed circuit board, I use tracing from old stocks. Carticle is very thin and printing the template directly on it is impossible, it is fluttered in the printer. To solve this problem, it is necessary before the seal to a piece of cartridges of the desired size in the corners of any glue on the droplets and glue the A4 office paper sheet.

This technique allows you to print the pattern of the printed circuit board even on the finest paper or film. In order for the thickness of the pattern of the pattern to be maximum, before printing, you need to configure the "printer properties", turning off the economical printing mode, and if such a function is not available, then select the cooler paper type, such as cardboard or something like that. It is quite possible from the first time a good imprint will not work, and you will have to experiment a little, pickup the best print mode of the laser printer. In the path obtained, the track drawing and contact pads should be dense without skipping and lubrication, since the retouching at this technological stage is useless.

It remains to trim the cushion of the contour and the pattern for the manufacture of the printed circuit board will be ready and you can proceed to the next step, transferring the image to the fiberglass.

Transfer pattern with paper on fiberglass

The transfer of the pattern of the printed circuit board is the most responsible stage. The essence of the technology is simple, paper, side of the printed pattern of the paths of the printed circuit board is applied to the copper foil fideline and pressing with a large force. Next, this sandwich is heated to a temperature of 180-220 ° C and then cooled to room floor. The paper is moving, and the drawing remains on the printed circuit board.

Some craftsmen offer to carry a drawing from paper on a printed circuit board using electricity. I tried such a way, but the result was obtained unstable. It is difficult to ensure simultaneously heating toner to the desired temperature And uniform press of paper to the entire surface of the printed circuit board when solidifying toner. As a result, the drawing is transferred not fully and spaces remain in the pattern of circuit board tracks. Perhaps the iron is not enough, although the regulator was set to the maximum heating of the iron. Update the iron and reconfigure the thermostat did not want. Therefore, I used another technology, less laborious and providing one hundred percentage.

The billet of the foil fiberglass is cut into the size of a printed circuit board and a degreased acetone, glued along the corners of a traction with a pattern printed on it. I put on the track on top, for a more uniform clamp, the heels of the leaves of office paper. The resulting package put on a sheet of plywood and topped with a sheet of the same size. This entire sandwich is covered with maximum strength in clamps.

It remains to heat the made sandwich to a temperature of 200 ° C and cool. For heating, electrophovka with a temperature regulator is perfect. It is enough to place the created design in the closet, wait for a set of a given temperature and after half an hour to remove the cooling board.

If there are no electrophovka at the disposal, then you can use and gas ovenBy adjusting the temperature of the gas supply handle along the built-in thermometer. If there is no thermometer or it is faulty, a woman can help, the position of the knob of the regulator is suitable, in which the pies bake.

Since the ends of plywood jumped, just in case it was published by their additional clamps. To avoid a similar phenomenon, it is better to clamp between metal sheets with a thickness of 5-6 mm. You can drill holes in their corners and clamp the printed circuit boards, pull the plates with screws with nuts. M10 will be enough.

After half an hour, the design cooled enough to solve the toner, the board can be extracted. At the first glance at the extracted printed circuit board it becomes clear that the toner switched from the tracing fee perfectly. Tighting tightly and evenly adjacent along the lines of printed tracks, rings of contact pads and labeling letters.

Cataca easily broke away from almost all circuit board tracks, the drain remains were removed using a wet fabric. But all, it did not cost without spaces in several places on the printed tracks. This can happen as a result of the non-uniformity of the printer's print or the remaining dirt or corrosion on the foil glassstolite. Spaces can be painted with any waterproof paint, manicure varnish or nourish the marker.

To check the suitability of the marker for retouching the circuit board, you need to draw it on paper line and paper to moisten with water. If the lines do not blurry, it means that the retouching marker is suitable.

Pour the printed circuit board at home is best in a solution of chlorine iron or hydrogen peroxide with lemon acid. After etching, the toner from the printed tracks is easily removed by a tampon dipped in acetone.

Then the holes are drilled, conductive paths and contact pads are pushed, radio elements are searched.

This species took a circuit board with radio components installed on it. It turned out a power supply and switching unit for an electronic system that complements the ordinary toilet with the function of the bidet.

Package etching

To remove copper foil from unprotected sections of foil fiberglass in the manufacture of printed circuit boards at home, radio amateurs are usually used chemical method. The printed circuit board is placed in the etching solution and due to the chemical reaction, the copper, unprotected mask, dissolves.

Recipes of coarse solutions

Depending on the availability of components, radio amateurs are used by one of the solutions shown in the table below. Therail solutions are located in the order of popularity of their use by radio amateurs at home.

Name of solution	Structure	number	Cooking technology	Dignity	disadvantages
Hydrogen peroxide plus lemon acid	Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2)	100 ml	In a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide to dissolve citric acid and cook salt	Accessibility of components, high etching speed, safety	Not stored
	Lemon Acid (C 6 H 8 O 7)	30 g
	Salt Salt (NACL)	5 g
Hydrochloride	Water (H 2 O)	300 ml	In warm water dissolve chlorine iron	Sufficient etching rate, reuse	Low accessibility of chlorine iron
	Chlorine Iron (FECL 3)	100 g
Hydrogen peroxide plus hydrochloric acid	Hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2)	200 ml	In 3% hydrogen peroxide solution pour 10% hydrochloric acid	High etching speed, reuse	High accuracy required
	Hydrochloric acid (HCl)	200 ml
Aqueous solution of copper	Water (H 2 O)	500 ml	IN hot water (50-80 ° С) dissolve the cook salt, and then copper sulphate	Accessibility of components	Poisonousness of copper mood and slow etching, up to 4 hours
	Copper Kuner (CUSO 4)	50 g
	Salt Salt (NACL)	100 g

Pour printed circuit board in metal dishes are not allowed. To do this, use glass, ceramics or plastic containers. Dispose of the spent etching solution is allowed in the sewer.

Fravic solution from hydrogen peroxide and citric acid

A solution based on hydrogen peroxide with citric acid dissolved in it is the safest, affordable and fast. Of all the listed solutions for all criteria, this is the best.

Hydrogen peroxide can be purchased in any pharmacy. Sold in the form of a liquid 3% solution or tablets called hydroperite. To obtain a liquid 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide from hydroperite, it is necessary in 100 ml of water to dissolve 6 tablets weighing 1.5 grams.

Crystal citric acid is sold at any grocery store, packaged in bags weighing 30 or 50 grams. Craw salt will be found in any house. 100 ml of the pool solution is enough to remove the copper foil with a thickness of 35 μm with a printed circuit board with an area of \u200b\u200b100 cm 2. The spent solution is not stored and cannot be reused. By the way, citric acid can be replaced by acetic, but because of her caustic smell, it will take a printed circuit board in the outdoors.

Chlorine Fravic Solution

The second poorer solution is an aqueous solution of chlorine iron. Previously, he was the most popular, as in any industrial enterprise, the chlorine iron was easy to get.

The etching solution is not required to the temperature, etched rather quickly, but the etching rate is reduced as chlorine iron spending in solution.

The chlorine iron is very hygroscopic and therefore from the air quickly absorbs water. As a result, yellow liquid appears at the bottom of the bank. This does not affect the quality of the component and such a chlorine iron is suitable for the preparation of the pools.

If the used chlorine iron solution is stored in a hermetic container, it can be used repeatedly. It is subject to regeneration, sufficiently pour iron nails into the solution (they immediately cover the loose layer of copper). If you get on any surface leaves hard yellow spots. Currently, a chlorine iron solution for the manufacture of printed circuit boards is applied less often due to its high cost.

Polish solution based on hydrogen and hydrochloric acid

An excellent etching solution provides high etching rate. Hydrochloric acid with intensive stirring is poured into a 3% aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution with thin flowing. Pour hydrogen peroxide into acid is unacceptable! But due to the presence in the etching solution of hydrochloric acid, when the board is etched, it is necessary to observe greater caution, as the solution corps the skin of the hands and spoils everything to which it falls. For this reason, the etching solution with hydrochloric acid at home is not recommended.

Copper Machine

The method of manufacturing printed circuit boards with the use of copper sulfate is usually used in case of the impossibility of manufacturing theratile solutions based on other components due to their inaccessibility. Copper cunery is a kernelian and is widely used to combat pests in agriculture. In addition, the injury time of the printed circuit board is up to 4 hours, while it is necessary to maintain a solution temperature of 50-80 ° C and to provide a permanent solution to the surface of the surface.

Printing technology etching technology

To etching the board in any of the above film solutions, glass, ceramic or plastic dishes are suitable, such as dairy products. If the suitable size of the capacity did not turn out, you can take any box of thick paper or cardboard suitable size and fasten it polyethylene film. The container is poured into the container and the printed circuit board is tightly in its surface. Due to the strength of the surface tension of the liquid and a small weight, the fee will float.

For convenience to the center of the board with glue, you can glue the plug from plastic bottle. The cork will simultaneously serve as a handle and float. But here there is a danger that air bubbles are formed on the board and in these places copper will not break.

To ensure uniform straightening of copper, you can put a circuit board on the bottom of the container up the pattern and periodically swing the bath with your hand. After some time, depending on theratile solution, plots will begin to appear without copper, and then copper will dissolve completely on the entire surface of the printed circuit board.

After the final dissolution of copper in the etching solution, the printed circuit board is removed from the bath and is thoroughly washed under the jet of flow water. The toner is removed from the tracks with a rare moistened in acetone, and the paint is well removed by the rag moistened in the solvent, which was added to the paint to obtain the desired consistency.

Preparation of a printed circuit board for radio components

The next step is to prepare the printed circuit board for the installation of radio elements. After removing the paint boards, the tracks need to be treated with circular motions of small emery paper. It is not necessary to get involved, because the copper tracks are thin and you can easily run them. Just just a few passes with an abrasive with a weak clamp.

Next, the current-driven tracks and contact pads are covered with alcohol-rosephole flux and pour a soft solder to an eclectic soldering iron. So that the holes on the printed circuit board are not delayed by the solder, it is necessary to take a little on the sting of the soldering iron.

After the manufacture of the printed circuit board is completed, it will only be inserted into the intended positions of radio components and pour their conclusions to the sites. Before soldering legs, it is necessary to moisten the alcohol-rosphole flux. If the legs of radio components are long, then they need to trim it up to rubbing to the length of the protrusion above the surface of the printed circuit board 1-1.5 mm. After the installation is completed, it is necessary to remove the remnants of rosin with any solvent - alcohol, white alcohol or acetone. They all successfully dissolving rosin.

On the embodiment of this simple scheme of the capacitive relay from wiring tracks for the manufacture of a printed circuit board before creating a valid sample, there are no more than five hours, much less than on the layout of this page.

Conditions with hydrogen peroxide. Everything is very simple and does not require much effort.

For work, we will need the following list of tools:
- program- Layout 6.0.exe (one can and other modification)
- Photoresist negative (this is a special film)
- Laser printer
- Transparent print film
- marker for printed circuit boards (if not, you can use nitrolac or nail polish)
- Foil textolite
- UV lamp (if there is no lamp, waiting for sunny weather and use solar rays, I have done everything many times)
- Two pieces of plexiglass (you can and one but I made two) you can also use a box from CDs
- Stationery knife
- hydrogen peroxide 100 ml
- Lemon acid
- Soda
- Sol
- Smooth hands (this is necessary)

In the Layout program we make a wiring of the board

Carefully check it that would not confuse anything and put on print

Be sure to leave all the checkboxes as in the photo. In the photo it is clear that the drawing in our negative image, since we have a negative photoresist, those sites on which the UV rays fall and are tracks, and the rest will wash off, but about it a little later.

Next, we take a transparent film for printing on a laser printer (located in a free sale) one of her side is a bit matte and the other glossy, so we put the film so that the drawing is on the matte face.

Take the textolit and cut it in the size of the required fee

Sut off the size of the photoresist (when working with a photoresist, avoid direct sunlight, as they will spoil the photoresist)

We clean the textolit with an eraser and wipe that any garbage would not be left

Next, on the photoresist, we tear off the protective transparent film

And gently glue to textolite, it is important that there would be no bubbles. Well stroke so that everything is well glued

Next, we will need two pieces of plexiglas and two clothespins can be used a box from CDs.

On the fee put our printed pattern, you must put the template printed side on the textolite and clamp between two halves of the plexiglass so that everything fits tightly

After we need UV lamp (or simple sun on a sunny day)

We screw the light bulb into any lamp and exhibit above our board at an altitude somewhere 10-20 cm. And we turn on, the time of illumination from such a lamp as a photo at a height of 15 cm is 2.5 minutes. I do not advise longer, you can spoil the photoresist

After 2 minutes turn off the lamp and look what happened. Tracks should be well visible

If everything is clearly seen in the next step.

Take the listed ingredients
- peroxide
- Lemon acid
- Sol
- Soda

Now we need to remove the not illuminated photoresist from the board, it must be removed in the solcinated soda solution. If it is not, then you need to do it. Boil water in the kettle and pour in container

I smell a simple soda there. Many no need to 100-200 ml 1-2 spoons of soda and mix well, the reaction should begin

We give the solution to cool to 20-35 degrees (immediately in the hot solution, you can not put the fee, the entire photoresist will tears)
We take our fee and remove the second protective film necessarily

And a false fee in a cooled solution for 1-1.5 minutes

Periodically, we get a fee and rinse it under the jet of water, considering it with a neat finger or soft kitchen sponge. When all the unnecessary molding should remain this fee

The photo shows that it was cleared a little more than necessary, probably overtook in solution (which is not recommended)

But nothing terrible. just take a marker for printed circuit boards or nail polish and put all the mistakes to them

Next, we pour into another container peroxide 100 ml, 3-4 spoons citric acid and 2 spoons of salt.

I do not know how you, and I am with Lita hatred in classical installation fees. The mounting is such a crap with holes where you can insert the details and sewing, where all connections are made by means of wiring. It seems to be simply, but it turns out such a porridge that it is very problematic to understand in it. Therefore, errors and burnt parts, incomprehensible glitches. Well, her nafig. Only nerves spoil. It is much easier for me to draw in my favorite scheme and immediately raise it in the form of a printed circuit board. Using laser-iron method Everything goes for some other hour of non-job work. Well, of course, this method is great for performing the final device, since the quality of the printed circuit boards obtained by this method is very high. And since this method is very difficult for the inexperienced, I will gladly share my exhaust technology that allows you to receive the first time without any stages, printed circuit boards with tracks 0.3mm and the lumen between them up to 0.2mm. As an example, I will make a debug board for my training course dedicated to the controller AVR.. You will find a fundamental in the record, and

Demosham is divorced on the board, and even in bulk copper pyatkov, which can also drill and use under their needs, like the usual circuit board.

The shop manufacturing quality printed circuit boards at home.

The essence of the manufacturing method of printed circuit boards is that a protective pattern is applied to the foil textolit, which prevents copper etching. As a result, after etching, the conductor tracks remain on the board. Methods of applying protective drawings. Previously, they were painted nitrocracy, through a glass tube, then began to apply waterproof markers or even cut out of the tape and stick on the fee. Also for amateur use has become available photoresistwhich is applied on the fee, and then turns out. The floors are soluble in alkali and wash off. But on ease of use, cheapness and speed of manufacture, all these methods greatly lose laser-iron method (Further Lut.).

The LUT method is based on the fact that the protective pattern is formed by toner, which is transferred to the textolite by heating.
So we need a laser printer, the benefit they are not uncommon. I use printer Samsung ML1520. with native cartridge. The refilled cartridges are extremely bad, since they have insufficient density and uniformity of the toner. In print properties, it is necessary to set the maximum density and contrast of toner, be sure to turn off all savings modes - not the case.

▌ Instruments and materials
In addition to the foil textolite, we will need another laser printer, iron, photographic paper, acetone, small skin, brush for suede with a metal-plastic pile,

▌Process
Further draw a drawing of the board in any software convenient for us and typing it. Sprint Layout. Simple drawing for boards. To properly printed, it is necessary to put the color layers on the left. Otherwise, it turns out garbage.

Printing, two copies. You never know, suddenly one swaying.

Here is the main subtlety of the technology Lut. Because of which many have problems with the release of quality boards and they throw this business. By many experiments it was found out that the most best result It is achieved when printing on glossy photographic paper for inkjet printers. Ideal i would call photo paper Lomond 120g / m 2

It is inexpensive, sold everywhere, and most importantly gives an excellent and repeatable result, and does not burn with its glossy layer to the printer stove. It is very important, since I heard about cases when glossy paper felt the printer oven.

We charge the paper into the printer and boldly print on the glossy side. You need to print in mirror mapping so that after transfer the picture corresponded to reality. How many times I was wrong and did wrong prints, do not recount :) Therefore, the first time is better for sample to print on ordinary paper and check that everything is right. At the same time, the printer stove is proper.

After printing, in no case can not be missed and desirable to take care of dust. So that nothing interfere with the contact of toner and copper. Next, cut the drawing of the board exactly along the contour. Without any stocks - the paper is rigid, so everything will be fine.

Now we will deal with textolite. I cut immediately a piece of the desired size, without tolerances and points. As much as needs.

He must be pretty sanding. Carefully, trying to construct all the oxide, preferably circular movements. A little roughness does not hurt - the toner will be better held. You can not take a skirt, but an abrasive sponge "effect". Just take a new one, not fat.

The skin is better to take the smallest way. I have this.

After sanding it, it must be a thoroughly degreased. I usually tormented your wife with a cotton pad and, maminating it as acetone, carefully walks along the surface. Again, after degreasing, in no case cannot be missed by his fingers.

We impose our drawing on the fee, naturally toner down. Heat iron at maximum, holding the paper with a finger, creep and stroke one half. It is necessary that the toner adhesive to copper.

Next, not allowing paper shift, stroke the entire surface. Davim with all my might, polish and irrigate board. Trying not to miss a millimeter of the surface. This is the most important operation, the quality of the entire fee depends on it. Do not be afraid to put out all my might, the toner will not float and will not smell, as the photo paper is thick and perfectly protects it from the spreading.

Stroym until the paper does not boost. However, it depends on the temperature of the iron. I don't get yellow on a new iron almost, but almost charred on the old one - the result was equally good everywhere.

After you can give a board a little cool. And then, grabbing a tweeze, weer under the water. And keep some time in the water, usually two minutes.

Taking a brush for suede, under a strong jet of water, we start fiercely down outer surface Paper. We need to cover it with multiple scratches so that the water penetrates into the depths of the paper. In confirmation of your actions there will be a manifestation of a pattern through dense paper.

And this brush draping fee is still not holding the top layer.

When the drawing is all clearly visible, without white spots, you can start carefully, download paper from the center to the edges. Paper Lomond. Rolls great, almost immediately leaving 100% toner and clean copper.

Rocking your fingers the whole drawing can be a toothbrush to delay the entire fee to clean the remnants of the glossy layer and the paper points. Do not be afraid, toothbrush to tear off the well-fitted toner is almost unrealistic.

Wash the fee and let her dry. When the toner dry and becomes gray, it will be clearly visible where the paper remained, and where everything is clean. Blesley films between tracks need to be removed. You can destroy them with a needle, and you can produce with a toothbrush under the jet of water. It is generally useful to go through the brush along the tracks. From the narrow cracks, whitic gloss can be pulled out with the help of isol or painting tape. He lipnets not so violently as usual and does not break the toner. But the remnants of the gloss take off without a trace and immediately.

Under the light of a bright lamp carefully look at the layers of toner on breaks. The fact is that when cooled, it can crack, then in this place there will be a narrow crack. Under the light of the lamp cracks glitter. These places should be tinted with a permanent marker for CD. Even if there is only a suspicion, then it is better to scratch. The same marker can be drawn and poor-quality tracks, if any arose. I recommend marker Centropen 2846. - It gives a thick layer of paint and, in fact, they can stupidly draw tracks.

When the fee is ready, then the chlorine iron solution can be caught.

Technical retreat, if you wish, you can skip it
In general, it is possible to train a lot in what. Someone traverad in copper vitrios, someone in acidic solutions, and I am in chlorine gland. Because It is for sale in any Radio Store, etched quickly and clean.
But the chlorine iron has a terrible disadvantage - it is larger just a scribe. It will fall on clothes or any porous surface like a tree or paper everything, consider a stain for life. So your boards from the Dolce Gabana or Valenki from Gucci to nourish the safes and wipe the scotch for three rolls. And the chlorine iron will most cruelly destroys almost all metals. Especially fast aluminum and copper. So the utensils for etching should be glass or plastic.

I kidai 250 gram package of chlorine iron per liter of water. And the resulting solution is tens of plates, until it stops to ride.
Powder must be poured into water. And make sure that the water does not overheat, and then the reaction comes with highlighting large number Heat.

When the powder is dissolved and the solution will acquire a homogeneous color, then you can throw a fee. It is desirable that the board is swimming on the surface, copper down. Theme the precipitate will fall on the bottom of the container, without interfering with the etching of deeper copper layers.
So that the fee is not tone, then you can stick a piece of foam on the bilateral scotch. That's exactly what I did. It turned out very convenient. I screwed the screw for convenience to keep it for him as a handle.

The board is better than several times to the solution into the solution, and it is not plaffing, and at an angle, so that air bubbles do not remain on the surface of copper, otherwise there will be shoals. Periodically, it is necessary to get out of the solution and follow the process. On average, the collection of fees leaves ten minutes to an hour. It all depends on temperature, fortress and freshness of the solution.

The etching process is very sharply accelerated if it is under the fee to lower the hose from aquarium compressor and let bubbles. Bubbles mix the solution and gently knock out the reacted copper from the board. You can also swing a fee or container, the main thing is not to spill, and then you do not have it later.

When all copper is hidden, we carefully remove the fee and rinse under the water. Further look at the clearance, so nowhere has no snot and notice. If there are no snot, then we throw ten minutes for ten minutes. If the tracks were berthed or broken, then the toner is crookedly lay down and these places will need to suck the copper wire.

If everything is fine, you can wash off the toner. To do this, we will need acetone - the faithful friend of the toxicomic. Although now acetone is becoming more difficult, because Some kind of idar from the state officercontrol decided that acetone was a substance used to prepare drug trains, which means you need to ban his free sale. Instead of acetone quite suitable 646 Solvent.

We take a piece of bandage and a pretty smile in his acetone begin to wash off the toner. It is not necessary to press much, the main thing is not too fast, so that the solvent so much to get absorbed into the pores of Toner, swaying it from the inside. On the washing of toner takes two minutes. During this time, even green dogs under the ceiling will not have time to appear, but one still does not hurt the window.

Washing board can be drilled. For these purposes, for many years I have been using a motor from a tape recorder, whipped from 12 volts. Monster Machine, the truth is enough of its resource about 2000 holes, after which the brushes are combined completely. And from it you need to exhale the stabilization scheme, checking the wiring directly to the brushes.

When driving, you need to try to keep the drill strictly perpendicularly. Otherwise, then fuck you go there a chip. And with bilateral fees, this principle becomes the main one.

The manufacture of a double-sided board is also occurring, only here three reference holes are made, as smaller diameter. And after the etching of one side (another at that time, they rush with a scotch, so as not to be laid) on these holes combine and roll the second side. The first strip tightly tape and etching the second.

On the front, it is possible to apply the designation of radio components on the front side, for the beauty and convenience of mounting. However, I do not bother so much, but Kamrad Woodocat. from LJ community rU_RADIO_ELECTR. Does it always, for what he has a big respect!

Soon I will probably give up a photoresist article also. The method is more damped, but at the same time, they make it more to do it - I love to pierce with reactivities. Although 90% of the boards, I do it all the same mud.

By the way, this is about the accuracy and quality of boards made by the laser irony. Controller P89LPC936. in the housing TSSOP28.. Distance between tracks 0.3mm, width of the tracks 0.3mm.

Resistors on top board size 1206 . What?

Since I study on an engineer, I often make houses projects with fairly simple electronic circuits and often do printed circuit boards for this.

What is a printed circuit board?

PCB (PP) serves for mechanical installation Radio components and electrical connections with a conductive pattern, contact pads and other components that are etched on a copper layer of a laminated plate.
On PP are pre-designed copper tracks. Correctly designing compounds by these tracks reduces the number of wires used, and therefore the number of damage caused by the bursts of the compounds. Components are mounted on PP soldering.

Ways to create

The main methods of manufacturing printed circuit boards are three:

1. Lut technology manufacturing printed circuit boards
2. Drawing paths manually
3. Laser etching

The laser etching method is industrial, so I will tell you more about the first two methods of manufacture.

Step 1: Create a wiring of the printed circuit board

Typically, the wiring is done by converting a schematic diagram using special programs. There are many free software Open access, for example:

I created a layout using the first program.

Do not forget in the image settings (file - export - image) Select DPIG 1200 for better image quality.

Step 2: Board Materials

(text in the photo):

• Logs or advertising brochures
• Laser printer
• Normal Iron
• Copper coating laminate for PP
• Solution for etching
• Thorough sponge
• Solvent (for example, acetone)
• Wire in plastic isolation

You will also need: permanent marker, sharp knife, sandpaper, paper towels, wool, old clothes.
I will explain technology on the example of the manufacture of PP sensor switch from IC555.

Step 3: Print the wiring

Print the layout of the scheme on a sheet of glossy or photo paper format4 on a laser printer. Do not forget:

• Print the image in the mirror image
• Select "Print All Black" and in the Printed Circuit Design Program and in the Laser Printer Settings
• Make sure the image will be printed on the glossy side of the sheet.

Step 4: Cut the laminate fee

Cut out a piece of laminate from the leaf of the same size as the image layout image.

Step 5: Spin the fee

Treat the foil side with a metal washcloth or an abrasive side of the sponge for washing dishes. It is necessary to remove the oxide film and the photosensitive layer.
The image is better on the paked surface.

Step 6: Scheme Making Options

Option 1:
Lut: Transfer printed on a glossy layer of paper on a foil layer of laminate. Put the printed image on a horizontal toner surface up. Put the board on top with a copper layer on the image. The image must be located exactly relative to the edges. While the laminate and the image on both sides of the scotch, so that the paper can not shift, the sticky layer of Scotch must not get on the copper coating.

Option 2:
Drawing tracks by a permanent marker: taking a printed wiring for a sample, apply a circuit on a copper layer of a piece of laminate first with a simple pencil, then circle a permanent black marker.

Step 7: stroke the image

• the printed image is needed to try the iron. Preheat iron to maximum temperature.
• put a clean unnecessary tissue on a flat wooden surface, put a future board with a copper layer up with a picture pressed to it.
• on the one hand, press the board with a towel with a towel, on the other, press it with an iron. Keep the iron for 10 seconds, then start stroking with paper with a little pressing, for 5-15 minutes.
• find the edges well - with pressure, slowly moving the iron.
• long press acts better than constant stroking.
• the toner must melt and stick to the copper layer.

Step 8: Cleaning the board

After ironing, place it in warm water About 10 minutes. Paper wet and it can be removed. Remove paper at a small angle and, desirable, without residues.

Sometimes the papers are removed with paper.
A white rectangle in the photos is allocated place where the tracks are poorly transferred and then restored with a black permanent marker.

Step 9: etching

During etching, you need to be extremely careful.

• first dress rubber gloves or gloves with plastic coating
• shipping the floor with newspapers just in case
• fill the plastic water box
• add 2-3 teaspoons of iron chloride powder
• lower the fee into a solution for about 30 minutes
• iron chloride will enter the reaction with copper and copper, not protected by a layer of toner, will go into solution
• to check how the inner parts of the board are running, get a fee from the solution with passatages, if the inner part has not yet cleared of copper, leave it in the solution for a while for a while.

Stir the solution slightly so that the reaction shaft is more active. The solution forms copper chloride and iron chloride.
Every two or three minutes check, whether the copper is etched from the board.

Step 10: Safety Safety

Do not touch the solution with unprotected hands, be sure to use gloves.
The photo shows how etching is running.

Step 11: The disposal of the solution

The solution for etching toxic to fish and other aquatic organisms.
Do not pour a spent solution into the sink, it is illegal and can spoil the pipes.
Dilute the solution to reduce the concentration and only after that drain into the total sewer.

Step 12: Completion of the manufacturing process

The photo shows for comparison two printed circuit boards made with the help of LUT and permanent Marker.

activate a few drops of solvent (you can remove a varnish fluid) on a freeze and remove the toner residues from the board, you must only have copper tracks. Act carefully, then dry the fee with a clean cloth. Cut the fee to the desired size and process the edges of the sandpaper.

Drill mounting holes and solder all components on the fee.

Step 13: Conclusion

1. Laser-ironing technology - quite effective method Production of printed circuit boards at home. If you do everything neatly, each track will be clear.
2. Performing a wiring with a permanent marker is limited to our artistic skills. This method is suitable for the simplest schemes, for something more complex it is better to produce a fee in the first way.

Many say that it is very difficult to make your first printed circuit board, but in fact it is very simple.

Now I will tell a couple of famous ways, how to make a printed circuit board at home.

To start a short plan, how the printed circuit board is manufactured:

1. Preparation to the manufacture
2. Conducting tracks
2.1RI for lacquer
2.2Ris the marker or nitrocra
2.3 Labeling Iron
2.4 Street with film photoresist
3. Placerave
3.1 Praising by chlorine iron
3.2 Creating copper sulfate with salt salt
4. Support
5. Screw

1. Preparation for the manufacture of printed circuit board

To begin with, we will need a sheet of foil textolite, metal scissors or a metal hacksaw, a plain grater for pencils and acetone.

Gently cut out the necessary piece of foil textolite. Then it is necessary to clean the neatly our textolite, from the copper side, a grater for a pencil to shine, then wipe our workpiece with acetone (this is done for degreasing).

Figure 1. Here is my billet

Everything is ready, now do not touch the brilliant side, otherwise you have to degrease.

2. Draw conductive tracks

These are the tracks by which the current will be held.

2.1 Draw tracks with varnish.

This method of the most longtime and sahama is simple. We will need the easiest nail polish.

Correctly draw nail polished track conductive tracks. Be careful because the lacquer sometimes breaks down and the tracks merge. Let's give a lacquer. That's all.

Figure 2. Laccusted tracks

2.2 Draw tracks by a nitrocrase or marker

This method is no different from the previous one, only draws everything much easier and faster

Figure 3. Tracks, drawn nitrocra

2.3 Laser Ironing

Laser iron One of the most common ways to make printed circuit boards. The method is not time consuming and takes little time. I personally did not try this way, but many familiar use it with great success

To begin with, we need to print a drawing of our printed circuit board on the laser printer. If there is no laser printer, you can print on the jet, and then make copies on a xerox for drawings, I use the Sprint-Layout 4.0 program. Just when printing, be careful using the mirror, many more than once killed the fees in this way.

We will print on some old unnecessary magazine with glossy paper. Before printing, adjust your printer to the maximum toner consumption, it will save from many problems.

Figure 4. Printing drawing on glossy magazine paper

Now take out our drawing in the form of an envelope.

Figure 5. Envelope with the scheme

Now we put our workpiece into the envelope and carefully we pull it out behind the scotch. We stick so that the textolite either moved in the envelope

Figure 6. Ready Envelope

Now weep the envelope. We try not to miss a single millimeter. The quality of the board depends on it.

Figure 7. Ironing board

When the iron will be finished, carefully false envelope in the dishes with warm water

Figure 8. Matching the envelope

When the host envelope, roll the paper without sharp movements to damage the toner tracks. If there are defects, take a CD or DVD disk marker, and correct the tracks.

Figure 9. Almost ready

2.4 Production of a printed circuit board with a film photoresist

As in the previous way, we make a drawing using the Sprint-Layout 4.0 program and press print. We will print on a special film for printing on inkjet printers. Therefore, we set up printing: remove the parties F1, M1, M2; In the options, put the tick negative and frame.

Figure 10. Print Setup

Configure the printer to black and white printing and set the maximum intensity in the colors setting.

Figure 11. Setting up printer

We print on the matte face. This side is working, it is possible to determine it by sticking it to the fingers.

After printing, our template is lying to dry.

Figure 12. Such our template

Now cut off the piece of film photoresist

Figure 13. Photoresist film

Carefully remove the protective film (it is matte), we glue it to our collection of textolite

Figure 14. glue to textolite photoresist

It is necessary to glue carefully, and remember, the better you press the photoresist, the better the tracks on the board. That's about what should happen.

Figure 15. Photoresist on textolite

Now from the film on which we printed, cut out our drawing and apply it to our photoresist with textolite. Do not confuse the parties, and then the mirror will turn out. And cover the glass

Figure 16. We apply the film with the drawing and cover with glass

Now we take the ultraviolet lamp and extinguish our tracks. For each lamp, your own parameters for manifestation. Therefore, the distance to the board and the luminescence time choose themselves

Figure 17. Introduce the path of the ultraviolet lamp

When the tracks were lit, we take a small plastic dishes make a solution of 250 grams of water spoon of soda and lower our fee already without the template of our board and the second transparent film of the photoresist.

Figure 18. Fallen fee in soda solution

In 30 seconds, our stamp is manifested. When the dissolution of the photoresist ended, our fee will be turned out, which they wanted. We rinse thoroughly under the jet of water. All is ready

Figure 19. Finished fee

3. etching a new printed circuit board. Etching is a way to remove excess copper from the textolite.

For etching, special solutions are used, which are made in plastic dishes.

After the manufacture of the solution, the printed circuit board is lowered there and deteriorates during a certain time. You can speed up the etching time by maintaining the temperature of the solution in the area of \u200b\u200b50-60 degrees and constant stirring.

Do not forget to use rubber gloves when working, and then wash your hands well with soap.

After the fee drive, it is necessary to rinse well under water and remove the residues of the varnish (paint, photoresist) by conventional acetone or lacquer removal fluid.

Now a little about solutions

3.1 Herbal iron

One of the most famous methods of etching. For etching is a chlorine iron and water with a ratio of 1: 4. Where 1 is a chlorine iron, 4 - water.

It is simply prepared: the desired amount of chlorinated iron is poured into the dishes and is filled with warm water. The solution should turn out green.

The time of etching board of size 3x4 centimeters, in the area of \u200b\u200b15 min

You can get a chlorine iron on the market or in radio electronics stores.

3.2 Pasteing with copper vigor

This method is not as common as the previous one, but also meets often. I personally use this way. This method is much cheaper than the previous one, and get the components easier.

In the dishes we fall asleep 3 spoons of the dining room salt, 1 spoonful of copper sulfate and fill with water 250 grams with a temperature of 70 degrees. If everything is right, the solution should become turquoise, but a little climbing green. To accelerate the process, it is necessary to mix the solution.

Etching time of 3x4 centimeters size, in the area of \u200b\u200bone hour

Get copper vigoros can be in stores agricultural products. Copper Court is a fertilizer of blue color. It has a form of crystal powder. ACB protection device from full discharge

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